Texas is booming as a whiskey region, with distilleries all over the Lone Star State. That history only goes back about 15 years, when pioneers… Read More
Texas is booming as a whiskey region, with distilleries all over the Lone Star State. That history only goes back about 15 years, when pioneers like Balcones Distilling and Garrison Brothers started out. During the recent 15th anniversary celebrations at Balcones, Texas Whiskey Festival co-founder Jake Clements moderated a panel (and tasting) on the first 15 years of Texas whiskey. We’re bringing you that discussion this week on WhiskyCast In-Depth, with panelists Jared Himstedt of Balcones, Dan Garrison of Garrison Brothers, Ironroot Republic’s Robert Likarish, and Ty Phelps of Andalusia Whiskey. In the news, The Lakes Distillery in England is being sold, while Edrington is selling off its Noble Oak American Whiskey brand.
Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery was once Tennessee’s largest distillery in pre-Prohibition times. The great-great-great grandsons of Charles Nelson revived the family business in downtown Nashville,… Read More
Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery was once Tennessee’s largest distillery in pre-Prohibition times. The great-great-great grandsons of Charles Nelson revived the family business in downtown Nashville, and have been making Tennessee whiskey along with sourced Bourbons and now, a Rye Whiskey. The distillery underwent a major expansion recently, and we’ll talk with co-founder Andy Nelson on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth. In the news, time is running short to avoid a return to Europe’s import tariffs on American whiskies, while a new Wild Turkey Bourbon features something different…three generations of Russells on the label.
The 128-year-old family-owned independent bottler stunned the whisky world this week with news that it will stop sourcing new make spirit from other distillers starting… Read More
The 128-year-old family-owned independent bottler stunned the whisky world this week with news that it will stop sourcing new make spirit from other distillers starting next year. Instead, Gordon & MacPhail will focus on single malts from its two distilleries, Benromach and The Cairn in the future. With decades of maturing whisky on hand, the change won’t be felt for at least 12 to 15 years and Gordon & MacPhail will continue bottling older whiskies for decades to come. We’ll discuss the change in philosophy with G&M managing director Ewen Mackintosh on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth. On Behind the Label, we’ll celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Excise Act of 1823, which directly led to today’s Scotch Whisky industry, and we’ll have tasting notes for whiskies from Bunnahabhain, Lost Lantern, and Dràm Mòr, too.
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After covering the brother’s unconventional beginnings into distilling, we next learned about their unique distilling and aging practices. Robert explained that in the course of their training, they had met veteran master blender Nancy Fraley and world renowned french brandy maker, Huber Germain-Robin. The brothers were well aware that their whiskey would be something different. After all, Kentucky whiskey isn’t going to be made in Texas. What they weren’t sure of was exactly what processes to employ. So with Fraley and Germain-Robin working as consultants the brothers began to forge their own path.
For the background history on Ironroot Republic Distillery, please refer to part 1 of this article, The Founding of Ironroot Republic DistilleryPart 2 is the Ironroot Republic Distillery Tour.
Ironroot Republic is a Unique Distillery
After covering the brother’s unconventional beginnings into distilling, we next learned about their unique distilling and aging practices. Robert explained that in the course of their training, they had met veteran master blender Nancy Fraley and world renowned french brandy maker, Huber Germain-Robin. The brothers were well aware that their whiskey would be something different. After all, Kentucky whiskey isn’t going to be made in Texas. What they weren’t sure of was exactly what processes to employ. So with Fraley and Germain-Robin working as consultants the brothers began to forge their own path.
Similar but Very Different
Some of Ironroot Republic’s processes and equipment are similar to other American bourbon distilleries, and some are not. Mashing and distilling are primarily on a Kothe cooker and 2 stills. The larger still is a 2000 liter Kothe hybrid used mainly for clear spirits and light whiskey, and the smaller still is a 1200 gallon Vendome pot still used mainly for bourbon. In addition, they have a 240 liter small hybrid still and 2 antique direct fire cognac stills which will be used in the future. A largely automated bottling line provides the finishing touches. However, it is what happens in between which makes the Ironroot Republic Distilery so unique.
1200 Gallon Vendome Pot Still 2000 liter Kothe Hybrid StillIronroot Republic Distillery Stills
The Journey to Ironroot’s Process
According to Robert, the journey towards Ironroot Republic’s ultimate process began by adapting some of the french brandy distillation and aging techniques. Similar to many French brandy disilleries, Ironroot makes use of 95% local grains and the traditional potstill for distillation. Two other techniques stand out in particular as they are most unusual in whiskey making.
Fermentation has an Extra Step
The first occurs during fermation. Over the course of 6-7 days, the mash undergoes 2 fermentation cycles. The first is the usual alcohol fermentation which is 3-4 days. The alcohol fermentation is then followed by a short malolactic fermentation. This second fermentaion innoculates the mash with bacteria. The bacteria go to work creating more esters and oils which in turn results in a creamier mouthfeel.
Barrel Aging is Where Things are Really Differnt
The second technique occurs in the barrel house and truly sets this distillery apart from any other. Ironroot Republic has adapted the method of élevage used by French brandy makers. In French, the term itself refers to rearing or raising generally in regard to animal husbandry. When applied to wine/brandy making, élevage refers to the process of nurturing the liquid from fermentation to bottling. Like bourbon, the French age brandy in oak barrels. Brandy is generally barreled at 140 proof and ages for the first year in a new charred oak barrel. After year one (sometimes two or three), the brandy is then evaluated, blended with other spirits, and transferred to older barrels (used).
Barrel Warehouse
Ironroot Republic’s Method of Élevage
After Robert himself spent time in Cognac, France learning brandy distillation methods, the brothers chose a slightly different process of élevage. Ironroot barrels its new make around 120-125 proof; any higher than 125 and it would no longer be bourbon. Next, each barrel ages for about a year, whereupon samples are pulled and each barrel’s profile is charted.
Barrels in need of “nurturing” will have a liter of water added into the barrel. This slow barrel reduction process is then repeated every 3-4 months. Chalk marks on the barrel head notate how much nurturing a barrel has had, hence the number of liters added. Robert also pointed out that each barrel doesn’t need the same nurturing. Some barrels age perfectly with no help at all. Most however receive some level of guidance.
For the Likarish brothers, the driving force behind their use of élevage, was to discern the best way to mature whiskey in Texas. In continued pursuit of this goal, Robert also shared that several years ago they began to switch from the standard 53 gallon barrel to a 63 gallon wine cooperage barrel. Robert joked that Texas being a huge BBQ state, low and slow is the way to go. This seems to suit their whiskey as well. The larger barrels allow for not only slower maturation with less evaporative loss, but also longer aging capability without the higher risk of the liquid becoming over-oaked.
Corn is Important For Bourbon, Too!
While Ironroot Republic’s adaptation of élevage is clearly unique in the whiskey industry, their undaunting spirit does not end there. In fact it’s been there from the very beginning. For example, Robert pointed out the many different corn varietals used in their mashbills. Bloody Butcher, purple, Floriani red, and atomic orange flint corns, among others, frequently accompany the standard non-GMO yellow dent corn Ironroot uses in its mashbills. Each heirloom corn is chosen for its ability to add specific flavors to the mashbill.
Without a doubt, whether its nurturing barrels or switching from sweet mash to sour mash (yes, this too happens on occasion), Ironroot Republic values its ability to experiment. The only thing written in stone seems to be that there is not really much that is. This was no more evident than when some tasting got underway.
Heirloom Corn Used at Ironroot Republic Distillery
Let The Sampling Begin!
Our palates were treated graciously with a dizzying array of spirits. Sampling from the barrel we were able to taste just how well Ironroot Republic learned brandy making techniques. We first tasted a 2 year brandy made with Riesling grapes, followed by a 7 year Chenin Blanc brandy. While these will not be ready for release for some time, these Texas brandies are certain to be fan favorites. Along with the brandies, a 2 year single malt and a light whiskey made their way into our glasses. There’s no doubt that Ironroot Republic has a seemingly endless list of ideas from which they choose, and they continue to choose wisely. Both whiskeys are aging well and on their way to becoming premium spirits.
Thieving Brandy – Ironroot Republic DistillerySampling from the barrel – Ironroot Republic DistillerySampling From the Barrel
Let’s Try Some of Ironroot’s Releases
After getting a good peak at what’s in the barrel, it was time to sample a few of Ironroot Republic Distillery’s bottlings. The Harbinger XC at 90 proof and the Harbinger at 115 proof headline the distillery’s standard straight bourbon releases. However, we were to try something a little different.
First, we sampled the Harbinger Tri-Barrel, a blend of 4.5/5.5/6.5 year barrels bottled at 129.6 proof. Next, we tasted the Apotheosis Straight Bourbon Whiskey in two versions; one finished in Armagnac Casks bottled at 127.6 proof and the second finished in Pineau Des Charantes Casks bottled at 112.2 proof. We were strong admirers of Ironroot’s talents before our visit and these samples ensured that this fact would not change. With the sampling winding down lest we overstay our welcome, we made our way to the gift shop for a few bottle purchases. We thanked Robert for his time and for sharing his wealth of information with us.
Ironroot Republic Distillery offers a behind the scenes tour and tasting every Saturday at noon and 2pm. Reservations can be made online and the cost is $10 plus a booking fee. Currently each tour has a 10 person maximum. The gift shop is open for bottle and swag sales Tuesday-Friday from 10-5:30 and Saturday 11-3. This distillery visit is well worth the cost of gas. Ironroot’s uncommon approach takes whiskey learning to a whole new level.
Bottling Line – Ironroot Republic DistilleryTour
Conclusion – Ironroot Republic Distillery Tour
Earlier, Robert confirmed what we had already suspected. He and brother, Jonathan, have no regrets leaving all their “formal” education behind. The lure of those copper stills continues to captivate. The Likarish brothers are now thriving business owners, successful entrepreneurs, and last but certainly not the least, damn fine Texas whiskey makers. Any one of which would make a parent proud.
For the background history on Ironroot Republic Distillery, please refer to part 1 of this article, The Founding of Ironroot Republic DistilleryPart 2 is the Ironroot Republic Distillery Tour.
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