Feis Ile - BourbonSphere

Big Changes for Wyoming Whiskey

Wyoming Whiskey marked its 10th anniversary last December, and this April, Edrington took majority ownership of the Cowboy State’s first distillery. That ended the run… Read More

Wyoming Whiskey marked its 10th anniversary last December, and this April, Edrington took majority ownership of the Cowboy State’s first distillery. That ended the run of David DeFazio as Wyoming Whiskey’s president, but he remains the brand’s global ambassador and a part-owner of the distillery. We’ll talk with him about the changes since then, along with what the future holds, both for him and the brand. We’ll also catch up with Wyoming Whiskey’s first master distiller, Bourbon Hall of Famer Steve Nally and master blender Nancy Fraley on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth, too. In the news, the drinks industry is mourning the death of Diageo CEO Sir Ivan Menezes this week, while Brown-Forman has won a trademark lawsuit challenge at the U.S. Supreme Court.

Episode 1008: June 11, 2023

Big Changes for Wyoming Whiskey

Wyoming Whiskey marked its 10th anniversary last December, and this April, Edrington took majority ownership of the Cowboy State’s first distillery. That ended the run… Read More

Episode 1008: June 11, 2023

Big Changes for Wyoming Whiskey (Episode 1008: June 11, 2023)

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Review / Ardbeg Heavy Vapours (Ardbeg Day Edition)

This is the annual Ardbeg Day release, which celebrates the final day of the Feis Ile festival on the famous whisky island of Islay, from the cult distillery of Ardbeg. Ardbeg Heavy Vapours is the result of an experiment conducted by Dr. Bill Lumsden, the Director of Whisky Creation at Ardbeg, several years ago. For the first time ever at Ardbeg its whisky was distilled without a purifier – the apparatus on the still responsible for maintaining balance between extreme peat and floral fruitiness at the distillery. This allows the heaviest alcohol vapours to rise up the still to be condensed back to a spirit.

Ardbeg Heavy Vapours will be available in two formats - a very limited cask strength Ardbeg Committee version at 50.2% ABV and one regular edition at 46% ABV, which will see wider availability. Both will be on sale in the coming weeks following Ardbeg Day on Saturday 3 June. The 46% ABV expression will be available from Ardbeg Embassies and specialist whisky retailers worldwide, plus the distillery shop. A bottle will cost £120.

The Ardbeg distillery is located on the southern coast of the famous whisky island of Islay and was founded in 1815 by John MacDougall, although records have distilling on the site as far back as 1794. The recent history shows numerous changes of ownership from the 1950s right through the fallow period of the 1980s and 90s, until The Glenmorangie Company (now Moet Hennessy) took over in 1997. This signalled the rebirth of Ardbeg. The distillery has an annual production of just 2.4 million litres per year and boasts an award-winning visitor centre.

"A missing purifier is unprecedented for Ardbeg. This experiment was something I’ve always imagined trying – what would happen to the flavour and character of Ardbeg by distilling in this unique way? Well, it’s now time for Ardbeg fans to find out."
Dr. Bill Lumsden.

Our tasting notes

This review is for the 46% ABV Ardbeg Day Edition of Heavy Vapours.

The colour is pale lemon yellow and the nose is big, bold and intense. Pungent and sooty coal ash aromas mingle with robust malted cereals and a whiff of drying seaweed. Bonfire embers and a hint of iodine are also evident. The heavy smoky aromas sit alongside sweeter golden syrup, toffee and vanilla sugar with peppery spice and a hint of eucalyptus in the background.

On the palate this whisky is equally as robust and intense as the nose suggested. The bold peat smoke leads the way, but the texture feels heavier and oilier than regular expressions of Ardbeg. It coats the mouth. The smoke is very ashy and sooty - think of dying bonfire embers and coal dust - and almost overwhelming. Medicinal hints of iodine and coal tar soap also come through well.

The intensity is balanced, well almost balanced, by a distinct confected sweetness - this has elements of icing sugar and candyfloss to it. Further sweetness is provided by a lovely golden syrup note, which is complimented by vanilla fudge and some milk chocolate. There is also something green and vegetal in there, which is most reminiscent of damp seaweed, eucalyptus and menthol.

The finish is long and peaty. The sweet characteristics slowly fade to give the whisky an even more ashy and sooty quality. This gives a drying and warming note that develops to become more spicy and hot with time. A late hit of damp seaweed and clove also evolve.

What's the verdict?

Heavy Vapours is one of the most intense and smoky whiskies that we have sampled for a while. The heavy and oily body makes for a bold experience and the slightly unbalanced peat smoke gives an almost overwhelming feel. This is not a negative. Quite the opposite actually. Whether the lack of purifier was an accident or calculated experiment - it has worked.

This Ardbeg is one for the true fans of the brand and very intense smoky whiskies. If you fit into either category, then you should enjoy Heavy Vapours. It is one of the better limited edition Ardbegs in recent memory. Grab a bottle while it is still available or you may regret it.

Review / Caol Ila 13 years old Fèis Ìle 2023 Edition

This whisky is the annual limited edition bottling for the Fèis Ìle festival from the Islay distillery of Caol Ila. The Caol Ila Fèis Ìle 2023 Edition is released at 13 years old and has been matured in ex-Oloroso and ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry seasoned casks. These casks were selected by Sam Hale, the Distillery Manager at Caol Ila, and his warehouse team. It is bottled at the natural cask strength of 60.4% ABV and will cost £185. The new whisky will only be available at the distillery visitor centre until sold out. It was released to celebrate the Caol Ila open day on Monday, May 29. The exact number of bottles was not revealed in the press release.

Caol Ila was founded Hector Henderson in 1846. It is located on the rugged north eastern coast of Islay, close to the hamlet of Port Askaig. The distillery looks across the Straight of Islay, the fast flowing channel of water after which it is named, to the neighbouring island of Jura. It is a large distillery with an annual production capacity of 6.5 million litres and is owned by Diageo.

Caol Ila is a major ingredient in Diageo's Johnnie Walker range, especially in the smoky Black Label expression. The visitor centre has recently reopened following a major revamp as the fourth destination in Diageo's 'Four Corners of Scotland' Johnnie Walker experience. The other three distilleries are Cardhu in Speyside, Clynelish in the Highlands and Glenkinchie in the Lowlands.

Our tasting notes

The colour is vibrant gold and the nose is smoky, sweet and expressive. Aromas of bonfire ash and coal tar soap mingle with golden syrup and toffee. These are supported by further aromas of milk chocolate, raisin, sultana and a hint of almond and hazelnut. A further hint of caramelised apple and sea spray sit in the background.

On the palate this whisky is initially sugary and sweet with a lovely hit of brown sugar and golden syrup to begin with. This evolves to include the dried fruits from the nose (think of those raisins and sultanas again, plus some candied orange and lime), stewed and sugared green apple, milk chocolate and a pinch cocoa powder. The sugary tang lifts the whisky superbly.

The ashy peat smoke is never far away and underpins the whisky. It weaves itself through the peat smoke elements very well and elegantly integrates itself. There are elements of coal tar soap and drying seaweed (imagine it as the tide has gone out), plus hints of medicinal iodine and dying embers. There is also a little spiciness that develops - think of cracked pepper, warming cinnamon and a hint of clove.

The finish is long and lingering. The peat smoke begins to dominate and this is especially true once the sweet and fruity characteristics die back a little. This gives a warming and particularly drying effect and this drags out the finish in a very pleasing way. A hint of gingerbread also comes through right at the end.

What's the verdict?

This is excellent. The balance of smokiness and sweetness is sublime in this Caol Ila 13 years old Fèis Ìle 2023 Edition. Caol Ila is often underrated and sits in the shadow of some of its more illustrious Islay neighbours, but this whisky shows the quality that consistently comes out of the distillery.

This transported us straight to Caol Ila and made us think of standing there on the quayside looking over to Jura. The peat smoke lingers so nicely and aids the late switch from sweet to dry. If you are on Islay this week then have a sip and we think you will probably buy a bottle once you have. Delicious.

Another New Distillery for Campbeltown

At one time, Campbeltown was Scotland’s whisky capital with more than 35 distilleries. That number dwindled to just three over the years, but now, planning… Read More

At one time, Campbeltown was Scotland’s whisky capital with more than 35 distilleries. That number dwindled to just three over the years, but now, planning approval is being sought for up to three new distilleries. The latest project is the Witchburn Distillery to be built on the former RAF Macrihanish site, and we’ll talk with project manager and master distiller Andrew Nairn on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth. We’ll also hear from Beam Suntory’s Daryl Haldane following the auction Friday of a one-of-a-kind Bowmore single malt to raise money for projects on Islay. In the news, Stirling Council has rejected plans for the proposed Wolfcraig Distillery for a second time, Scotch Whisky Association leaders continue their push to reserve an excise duty hike planned for August, and Jack Daniel’s lost a trademark infringement case in the U.K. to a pair of comedians.

Episode 1006: May 28, 2023

Another New Distillery for Campbeltown

At one time, Campbeltown was Scotland’s whisky capital with more than 35 distilleries. That number dwindled to just three over the years, but now, planning… Read More

Episode 1006: May 28, 2023

Review / Lagavulin 14 years old Fèis Ìle 2023 Edition

This new limited edition single malt whisky is this year’s bottling for the annual Fèis Ìle festival for the Islay distillery of Lagavulin. The Lagavulin Fèis Ìle 2023 Edition is bottled at 14 years of age and has been matured in American oak and Europ…

This new limited edition single malt whisky is this year's bottling for the annual Fèis Ìle festival for the Islay distillery of Lagavulin. The Lagavulin Fèis Ìle 2023 Edition is bottled at 14 years of age and has been matured in American oak and European oak barrels before a finishing period in ex-Armagnac casks, which were sourced from France. This is the first ever expression of Lagavulin with such a finish. The casks were hand selected by Jordan Paisley, the Distillery Manager of Lagavulin. It is bottled at the natural cask strength of 58.4% ABV and will retail for £220. The Lagavulin 14 years old Fèis Ìle 2023 Edition is on sale from today at the distillery to celebrate their open day.

Lagavulin is located on Lagavulin Bay, a small bay dominated by the ruins of the 13th century Dunyvaig Castle on the southern coast of the famous whisky island of Islay. The name is the anglicised name of the village in which the distillery is located - Lag a'Mhuilin, which translates as 'mill by the bay' from the local Gaelic dialect. The distillery was founded in 1816 by John Johnston and is currently owned by Diageo. It has an annual production capacity of approximately three million litres.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep gold and the nose is rich, sweet and peaty. The peat smoke is mossy and ash-like with a whiff of sea spray and drying seaweed. Aromas of plump dried fruits (especially sultana) and golden syrup support the smoke well. There is also a hint of something reminiscent of barbequed meat, plus candied lime and a pinch of cocoa powder.

On the palate this whisky is is big, bold and punchy. The peat smoke is again upfront and drives the boldness - this is ashy and reminiscent of dying bonfire embers with some damp moss and dried seaweed thrown in. There is also a distinct, almost chalky, minerality to it. The smoke warms the mouth and has a distinct peppery quality too it, which is dampened a little when water is added.

As with the nose this robust smoke is supported superbly by some luscious sweet and fruity notes. Notes of juicy sultana, raisin and candied lime lead the way and are quickly joined by further notes of toffee, golden syrup and a suggestion of milk chocolate. Savoury characteristics back everything up nicely - think of hints of salted caramel, old cigar box and some warming spices (especially clove, cinnamon and white pepper).

The finish is long. The expressive peat smoke drags everything out superbly and makes the the finish become more mineralic and drying with time. This is especially true once the sweet and fruity elements begin to fade, which allows the smoke to dominate and the warming spices to come to the fore.

What's the verdict?

This whisky is a bit of a stunner from Lagavulin and one that makes you wonder why more people do not use ex-Armagnac casks for finishing. OK, they are rare but they seem to work really well with this level of peat smoke. The balance sweetness versus smokiness is superb.

This also drinks very well at the high cask strength. Water softens things a little and takes away some of the spiciness and boldness - this is no bad thing but we prefer it without. If you are lucky enough to be on Islay for Fèis Ìle over the coming week then we would recommend grabbing a bottle, although the price is a bit heavy.

A New Era for Blended American Whisky (Episode 1004: May 14, 2023)

Blended American Whisky has been ignored by connoisseurs for many years, largely because the category has been dominated by cheap blends using grain neutral spirits. Now, there’s a new era for Blended American Whisky as blenders explore the flexibility the category offers, from being able to blend Bourbons and Ryes with other styles of whisky to being able to use whisky matured in used barrels. We’ll talk with master blender Ari Sussman about the trend in this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth. In the news, Australian distillers are in a dispute over what should be called a “single malt,” Russian officials raid a factory producing counterfeit Scotch Whisky and other spirits, and we’ll learn what not to do when your golf bag catches on fire. In our Behind the Label segment, we’ll look at what researchers say is the proper amount of water to add to your whisky, and our latest Community poll asks whether you’d prefer to try a 50-year-old whisky or a 10-year-old bottled in 1920.

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Review / Ardbeg Ardcore (Ardbeg Day Edition)

This new whisky is the annual Ardbeg Day bottling for the Feis Ile festival on the famous whisky island of Islay. The 2022 offering is named Ardcore and has been inspired by punk rock music. The whisky has been produced using rare black malt, which is a first for Ardbeg, and takes the spirit in a dark, fiery and feisty direction. Ardbeg Ardcore has been developed by Dr. Bill Lumsden, the Head of Distilling & Whisky Creation at Ardbeg. The whisky was officially released on Ardbeg Day (June 4), which traditionally brings the Feis Ile festivities to an end. There will be two versions of Ardcore - a cask strength version for Ardbeg Committee members (50.1% ABV) and this Ardbeg Day Edition at 46% ABV.

Both the Committee Release and Ardbeg Day Edition are non chill-filtered, of natural colour and cost £100 per bottle. There are a few places that still have the regular bottling available, including the distillery. The Committee Release is sold out and is already fetching high prices on auction sites. We are reviewing the Ardcore 46% ABV expression here.

Our tasting notes

The colour is golden yellow and the nose sweet, earthy and peaty. Swathes of ashy, acrid smoke drift from the glass and initially push everything else back. Then comes lovely vanilla and golden syrup, milk chocolate, plus damp earth and moss. A background note of malted cereal biscuits battles through as does a hint of yeast extract.

On the palate this whisky has an immediate acrid and bitter quality. Medicinal peat smoke dominates but is joined by a heavy bitter chocolate note. The combination is heady and bold - think of damp moss, drying seaweed, high cocoa content chocolate, coal tar soap, burnt oat cookies and a pinch of cocoa. It is full on and powerful. The savoury nature continues with further notes of yeast extract, sourdough bread and warming chilli spice.

The biscuity note turns a little sweeter with time and becomes more reminiscent of chocolate digestives. This ushers in some later sweetness that finally comes through to add balance, depth and complexity. Think of golden syrup, heather honey, vanilla custard and a hint of lime marmalade. A late hint of woody baking spices (especially cinnamon and mace) join the chilli-like spice for extra warmth.

The finish is lengthy and expressive. Unsurprisingly it is the acrid and medicinal smoke that takes control and draws out the whisky. The sweeter notes fade to leave an ashy dryness and peppery spicy warmth. The biscuity note is next to go, followed by the greener smoky characeristics.

What's the verdict?

This is a delicious, bold and highly expressive whisky from Ardbeg. The high level of signature smoke is there and will not disappoint the many avid fans that the brands have. But it is the deeper biscuit-like and chocolatey notes that are the stars here, which must come from the roasted black malt. They marry with the peat smoke superbly and the result is a highly individual single malt. Definitely worth grabbing a bottle, but do not hang around as they will not be around for long.