Diageo, Scotland's largest whisky producer, has announced the line-up for their annual Special Releases Collection. The Diageo Special Releases: Spirited Xchange Second Edition is formed of eight single malts, which are limited in number (although the exact numbers have not been revealed). This year's collection is designed to push the boundaries of Scotch whisky and features familiar distilleries alongside lesser known hidden gems.
The Special Releases were first launched over two decades ago, first appearing in 2001, and have been released annually ever since. The collection has grown to be eagerly anticipated by whisky fans, consumers and collectors around the world. The whiskies included each year are designed to showcase some of the best and rarest whisky, both single malt and single grain, held within Diageo's extensive portfolio of maturing stocks. These come from their 29 operating distilleries, plus closed ones on occasion.
The eight rare and collectable single malts in this years collection have been crafted by Dr. Stuart Morrison, Master Blender for the series at Diageo. Each bottling uses photography for the first time to capture the whisky's character and flavour profile. The collection is available in selected world markets including Asia, Australia, Canada, Europe, the UK and the USA, plus global travel retail and via www.malts.com.
Our Tasting Notes
Benrinnes | Grand Crescendo 21 years old
Matured in American oak ex-red wine, European oak and rejuvenated casks/ Speyside/ 55.4% ABV/ £355/ US$480.
The colour is russet amber and the nose is elegant and expressive. Aromas of fairground toffee apple, baked pear with cinnamon-laced butterscotch sauce and juicy ripe peach leap from the glass and are supported by further aromas of toasted walnut, dark chocolate and a hint of sandalwood. On the palate this whisky is classy, luxurious and displays an immediate sweet vs. savoury dynamic.
The texture of the whisky is gripping and the fruit from the nose leads things off well - the toffee apple, pear and peach, plus a suggestion of bitter orange oil. Then comes caramel and dark chocolate, with the latter tending towards mocha with time. The savoury characteristics evolve nicely to add depth and structure - think of sandalwood again plus chamois leather, warm baking spices and a hint of menthol.
Caol Ila | Ambrosial Feast 11 years old
Unpeated and matured in re-fill American oak and rejuvenated ex-red wine casks/ Islay/ 57.3% ABV/ £82/ US$110.
The colour is bright gold and the nose is refreshing and uplifting with some sweet and mineralic aromas. Crisp green apple, milk chocolate and golden syrup give a bright start, before further aromas of bittersweet malted cereals, buttery fudge and cracked black pepper develop. Something flinty and chalky lurks underneath. On the palate this whisky is deliciously mouthwatering and very promising.
Notes of golden syrup and fresh honeycomb lead the way and are quickly joined by milk chocolate and a hint of orange oil. The green apple from the nose adds a touch of tartness before the whisky softens to become more creamy. There are hints of buttery popcorn and dried fruit, especially raisin and sultana. The malty and mineralic elements return towards the end to give balance and good depth. Interesting.
Lagavulin | Fireside Tales 12 years old
Matured in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels and re-fill casks/ Islay/ 57.4% ABV/ £135/ US$180.
The colour is pale gold and the nose is punchy and phenolic. There is plenty of bonfire and charcoal ash, which sit alongside some honeyed sweetness. There is a distinct aroma of something green and vegetal that is reminiscent of green capsicum and damp moss. A hint of old fashioned coal tar soap is also evident. On the palate this whisky is vibrant and fiery with plenty of ash-like smoke to the fore.
This smoke has a hot edge to it, like a bonfire at full force, and this slowly softens to reveal other elements. These include malted biscuits, honey, lemon zest and vanilla sugar. The green mossy quality from the nose remains and is joined by some icing sugar and salted caramel. The smoke is never far away and lingers throughout. It drives the whisky on towards a long, ashy and drying finish.
Mortlach | Midnight Dusk
Finished in ex-Ramandolo sweet white wine and ex-Sangiovese red wine casks/ Speyside/ 57.5% ABV/ £225/ US$300.
The colour is deep copper and the nose is very confected - think of aromas of candied lemon and lime, white chocolate, sugary sultana and ripe peach. Underneath are hints of something floral (most reminiscent of honeysuckle and jasmine), old leather and prickly peppery spices. On the palate this is much more viscous and mouthcoating than the nose suggested. It feels big and bold, yet remains sweet.
Notes of sugary white grapes and plump sultana kick things off before some golden syrup, toffee and vanilla ice cream come through. Something bright and floral lingers in the background - think of jasmine or elderflower. Hints of bitter chocolate, spent coffee grounds and candied lime are evident also. The doak and peppery spices built towards the finish, which gives a lasting dryness and heat.
Oban | Coastal Orchard 10 years old
Matured in new freshly charred American oak barrels and finished in ex-Oloroso seasoned and re-fill casks/ Highlands/ 58% ABV/ £90/ US$120.
The colour is bright gold and the nose is laced with heady aromas of fresh vanilla pod, white chocolate and lemon curd with hints of cocoa powder and sultana. There is also the faintest whiff of sea breeze and gentle, soft peat smoke. On the palate this whisky is equally as fresh and lively. The gentle peat smoke is more prominent now but sits underneath the other sweeter notes and compliments them well.
The savoury nature slowly fades and allows the sweeter and fruitier characteristics to shine. Notes of creamy vanilla toffee and stewed apple lead the way with some honeycomb and dried fruits supporting - think of plump sultana, raisin and candied lemon. Hints of milk chocolate, almond paste and molasses accentuate these notes. There is an underlying flinty mineralic quality also, plus that whisp of salty sea air.
Roseisle | Origami Kite II 12 years old
Only the second ever expression released, matured in re-fill and first-fill ex-bourbon casks/ Speyside/ 55.6% ABV/ £112/ US$150.
The colour is deep gold and the nose is bright and vibrant. Aromas of golden syrup and vanilla toffee lead the way and sit alongside some baked apple, white chocolate and orange blossom. Hints of white pepper and marzipan sit underneath. On the palate this whisky has delicious initial notes of dried peach and that baked apple from the nose. A hint of cinnamon and powdered ginger accentuates this.
Then comes sweetness in the form of heather honey and golden syrup, which is backed up by hints of sweet marmalade and marzipan. Further hints of milk chocolate, vanilla pod and good quality vanilla ice cream add further depth. Then come some warming and peppery spices - think of cinnamon, white pepper and a hint of clove. A pinch of icing sugar adds a lasting delicate sweetness right at the death.
The Singleton of Glen Ord | Autumn Walk 14 years old
Matured in ex-bourbon, rejuvenated ex-red wine and refill casks, then finished with European oak casks with Pyrenean oak cask-ends/ Speyside/ 54.7% ABV/ £116/ US$155.
The colour is coppery amber and the nose is rich and sweet with a distinct woody undertone. Aromas of vanilla pod, Victoria sponge cake and sweet orange rise first, and are followed aromas of dried fruits (especially raisin and sultana with a hint of apricot) and toasted nuts - think of almond and hazelnut. On the palate this whisky is rich and luscious with plenty of fruity and nutty notes up front.
Notes of poached pear and caramelised peach are evident to begin with and are supported by orange fondant icing, milk chocolate and a hint of maple syrup. The toasted almond note remains but the hazelnut has evolved to more resemble praline now. A hint of brazil nut also sits alongside. Warming and dry wood spices take hold towards the end - imagine cinnamon and freshly sawn oak with a hint of old cigar box.
Talisker | Tidal Churn 8 years old
Matured in stone-spun re-toasted oak casks/ Islands/ 58.7% ABV/ £79/ US$105.
The colour is mid-gold and the nose is sweet, mineralic and smoky. Aromas of heather honey, sugar syrup and white chocolate are joined by a distinctive peppery smoke that has elements of dried seaweed, bonfire ash and cracked black pepper to it. There is also something moss-like and reminiscent of hot sand on a beach in the background. On the palate this whisky is immediately peppery, but with sweet undertones.
The peat smoke dominates throughout and mixes traditional peat smoke vibes (think of earth, seaweed, moss and a hint of medicinal bandage) with a drying heat and peppery nature. Sweetness comes in the form of the honey and white chocolate from the nose, plus hints of vanilla patisserie custard and sugared almonds. Hints of hard apple candy and liquorice also exist, as does the hot sand note from earlier.
What's The Verdict?
We always look forward to sampling the Diageo Special Releases each year and they rarely let you down. The days of super rare or old bottlings seem to have gone, but have seemingly been replaced by a more experimental approach and unorthodox cask maturation at times. This year's selection is solid, if somewhat unspectacular.
All are good whiskies and ones that show off the diversity across Diageo's vast Scottish estate. Which are our favourites? For once, the choice is easy - the three standouts are the Roseisle 12 years old (last year's first ever bottling was also a highlight), Benrinnes 21 years old and the unpeated Caol Ila 11 years old. The Caol Ila feels like a particular treat given how infrequently unpeated spirit is made and released from there.
