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Inbox | The Week’s Whisky News | January 26, 2024

Welcome to Inbox – our weekly round up of whisky news and PR material that has found its way in to the WFE email. We started Inbox several years ago as we cannot write full articles or do justice to every piece received. It features items from arou…

Welcome to Inbox - our weekly round up of whisky news and PR material that has found its way in to the WFE email. We started Inbox several years ago as we cannot write full articles or do justice to every piece received. It features items from around the world of whisky and is published by us each Friday. Within Inbox we aim to write a few lines detailing each press release/ piece of news/ PR event that we have received and provide links, where possible, for you to find out further information.

Here is this week's whisky news ...

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Glenglassaugh

The coastal Highland distillery of Glenglassaugh has launched a new collection of extremely rare single cask single malts - the Glenglassaugh Serpentine Coastal Cask Collection. The series takes its name from the serpentine marble that runs through the cliffs that surround the distillery. There are three single casks that launch the collection, each selected by Dr. Rachel Barrie - the Master Blender for Glenglassaugh. Each was distilled and filled in the 1970s.

Cask #1863 was distilled in May 1974 and is released at 48 years of age. It has been matured in an ex-red wine barrique and is bottled at the natural cask strength of 46.1% ABV. A bottle will cost £7,500. Cask #5640 was distilled in November 1973 and has been matured in an ex-bourbon barrel. The 49 years old is bottled at 42.1% ABV and will cost £8,300. Cask #1723 was distilled in October 1972 and has been matured in an ex-Oloroso sherry puncheon. It is bottled at 51 years of age and 44.2% ABV. A bottle will cost £10,300.

"It is extremely rare to find casks which have been left to mature in coastal locations for such a long period of time. Our warehouses, perched on cliffs overlooking Sandend Bay, have acted as the custodians of this old and rare liquid for the last five decades."
Dr. Rachel Barrie.

Milroy's of Soho

London's oldest independent whisky specialist retailer, Milroy's of Soho, has announced four limited edition bottlings that will kick off the company's 60th anniversary celebrations. Two form part of their Soho Selection range and two part of the Vintage Reserve range. All are bottled at their natural cask strength and are of natural colour.

For the Soho Selection are the Campbeltown 6 years old blended malt and Highland 19 years old peated malt. The Campbeltown 6 years old features whiskies distilled in 2017 and is bottled at 59.1% ABV. There are just 277 bottles and each will cost £55. The Highland 19 years old was distilled in 2004 and is lightly peated. It is released at 55.5% ABV. There are just 268 bottles with each costing £125. Both feature undisclosed distilleries.

A pair of Speyside single malts join the Vintage Reserve series - the Benriach 27 years old and Glenburgie 27 years old. The Benriach 27 years old was distilled in 1996 and has matured in a single ex-bourbon hogshead. It is released at 42.9% ABV and there are just 221 bottles. Each will cost £395. The Glenburgie 27 years old was distilled in 1995 and has matured in a single ex-bourbon hogshead also. It is released at 52.3% ABV and there are just 237 bottles. Each will cost £295.

All four 60th anniversary bottlings are available from www.milroys.co.uk and from the company's Soho shop. They will also be served at their Soho bar by the dram.

Old Pulteney

The north Highland distillery of Old Pulteney has announced a new bottling to its core range - Old Pulteney Harbour. The name refers to the harbour in the distillery's hometown of Wick, which was once one of the largest fishing ports in Europe. The new whisky has been designed to show the brand's continued connection to the sea. Old Pulteney Harbour has been matured in a quartet of American oak ex-bourbon cask styles - first-fill, second-fill, re-fill and re-charred. These were hand-selected by Malcolm Waring, the long-serving Distillery Manager at Old Pulteney, and his team.

Old Pulteney Harbour is bottled at 40% ABV and will initially be exclusively available within Tesco stores in the UK, plus the distillery shop in Wick and via www.oldpulteney.com. A bottle will cost £34.

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Review / Glenglassaugh Sandend & Portsoy

These two whiskies form part of the revamped core range from the coastal Highland distillery of Glenglassaugh. The complete brand overhaul includes new packaging and three new whiskies - both are said to be influenced by the land and sea and the vibrant coastal spirit produced at Glenglassaugh. Alongside Portsoy and Sandend is the 12 years old - the first age statement featuring whisky distilled at Glenglassaugh since it reopened after a lengthy closure in 2008. We plan to review this shortly.

The Glenglassaugh distillery is located on the North Sea coast of Aberdeenshire. It was founded in 1875 by James Moir and his nephews, Alexander and William Morrison. The whisky was popular with blending companies and has historically been used in brands such as Famous Grouse and Cutty Sark. The distillery has had an intermittent history with three long periods of closure, the most recent being between 1986 and 2008.

Glenglassaugh was then purchased and renovated by the Scaent Group, who also inherited around 400 old casks of maturing whisky. The first new spirit flowed in November 2008. It has since been through two more ownership changes - first the Benriach Distillery Co. and then the current owners Brown-Forman. The production is 250,000 litres per year, although the capacity is around one million. The name translates as 'valley of the grey green grass' from Gaelic.

The Glenglassaugh Sandend and Portsoy have been created by Dr. Rachel Barrie, the Master Blender for Glenglassaugh. Glenglassaugh Sandend is named after the sweeping crescent beach of Sandend Bay, which the distillery overlooks. It has been matured in ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and ex-manzanilla sherry casks and is bottled at 50.5% ABV. A bottle will cost £55.

Portsoy uses the distillery's rare peated spirit and is named after the nearby ancient fishing village of Portsoy. It has been matured in ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and ex-Port casks and is bottled at 49.1% ABV. A bottle will cost £60. Both will be available in specialist whisky retailers worldwide.

Our tasting notes

Glenglassaugh Sandend

The colour is straw gold and the nose is sweet and fruity with a hint of salinity. Aromas of honey, vanilla fudge and juicy sultana rise from the glass along with candied lemon, green apple and plenty of tropical fruit - think of pineapple, mango and papaya in particular. There are also hints of white chocolate and toasted nuts.

On the palate this whisky is bright and vibrant with the delicious sweet and fruity notes from the nose continuing. The tropical fruits are right up front now - pineapple, mango, papaya again plus a hint of peach - but are quickly joined by juicy raisin and soft ripe green apple. There is also a hint of cooked pear. Then come honey, vanilla essence and butterscotch. Sitting in the background are some warming woody spices (cinnamon especially), a little drying oak plus something reminiscent of hay or straw and yeasty note that is like freshly baked bread. The finish is long with a distinct apple-like quality drawing it out. This is a very summery and juicy dram.

Glenglassaugh Portsoy

The colour is coppery amber and the nose is packed with aromas of caramel, dried fruits and soft gentle sweet peat smoke. It feels rich and honeyed with warming spices coming through the smoke, along with a hint of cocoa powder and orange oil. The balance between peat and sweetness is very enticing.

On the palate this whisky continues on the rich and honeyed theme. There are plenty of autumnal ripe orchard fruits on show - think apple and pear especially - plus a selection of stone fruits including apricot and plum. The sweet and gentle peat smoke wraps around everything and has a warming edge with a pinch of spice - this is more earthy home fire than bonfire. Hint of chocolate and gingerbread ofurther add to the depth and complexity. The finish is long, well rounded and balanced although a touch ashy towards the end. This feels like an autumnal whisky and a big hug in a glass.

What's the verdict?

We were excited to hear about the Glenglassaugh revamp and are very impressed with both of these whiskies. We cannot wait to sample the 12 years old now. We are also impressed with the packaging redesign which adds a luxurious feel to the brand. This reflects its small capacity and rarity. As for the two whiskies, we liked them both. They push the spirit in differing directions - one juicy, fruity and luscious with the other more rich, moody and smoky - but both work well and are superbly balanced.

We also like that they have been bottled at higher ABV strengths as this seems to really bring out the aromas and flavours to make them pop. The prices are not too naughty either and you seem to get plenty for your money. Big applause all round to Rachel and the team for Sandend and Portsoy, and for giving Glenglassaugh some of the love and attention that the younger liquids deserve.

Review / Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12

The new whisky is the latest limited addition to the Cask Strength series from the Highland distillery of Glendronach. The Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12 has used whiskies of differing ages matured in ex-Pedro Ximénez and ex-Oloroso sherry casks from Andalucía in the south of Spain. The whisky has been created by Dr. Rachel Barrie, the Master Blender for Glendronach. The series was started by former owner Billy Walker and has gained somewhat of a cult status amongst whisky fans. The Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12 is bottled at 58.2% ABV and is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour. It is available through selected specialist whisky retailers worldwide. A bottle will cost £75.

The Glendronach distillery was founded in 1826 by James Allardice and is located in rural Aberdeenshire, close to the town of Huntly. The majority of the present buildings date from 1850 when the distillery was rebuilt following a devastating fire. It was the last in Scotland to use stills directly fired by coal - this practice only finished in 2005. The distillery is known for its use of high quality ex-sherry casks and is currently owned by Brown-Forman, who took control in 2016. The annual production has recently increased to around two million litres.

"The Glendronach Cask Strength series offers a deep insight into the distillery’s signature character, by bottling at the whisky’s natural cask strength, as was the custom before the turn of the 20th Century. Add a drop or two of water to Batch 12 to open up the liquid and reveal a cornucopia of flavours."
Dr. Rachel Barrie.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep amber and the nose is rich and expressive. Aromas of dark dried fruits (think of raisins and prunes especially), mocha and crème brûlée are to the fore and are supported by further aromas of orange oil, toasted hazelnut and caramelised peach. There are also hints of sandalwood, dusty spices and chocolate coated cherry.

On the palate this whisky feels rich, sweet and indulgent. It is exceptionally well balanced given the high ABV. Juicy dried fruits lead the way with plump raisins and brandy-soaked prunes to the fore. There are also notes of bitter orange peel and maraschino cherry - the orange evolves to be more marmalade-like, while the cherry becomes the chocolate coated cherry from the nose with time.

There is incredible depth to the whisky. Further notes of burnt caramel and a hint of black treacle wrap around the fruity elements and are supported by more savoury characteristics. Dusty and earthy spices add warmth (imagine cinnamon, ginger and szechuan pepper) while sandalwood and chamoix leather give complexity. There are late hints of toasted almond and walnut, coffee grounds and clove.

The finish is long, rich and warming. The dried fruit and citrus notes linger deep into the finish and work well with the more savoury and spicy notes. The black treacle and blowtorched crème brûlée really come through towards the end, as does soem fiery pepper and ginger powder.

What's the verdict?

This Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12 is a sumptuous and decadent whisky, and one of the best in the series for a while. As mentioned, the series has a cult following with people constantly comparing releases or discussing if the Billy Walker bottlings are better than Rachel Barrie's. To us, one is not better than the other. But they both have different approaches.

Walker went down the heavier 'sherry bomb' route, which some people preferred, while Barrie seems to be showing the subtlety and nuance in what an ex-sherry cask can do. The recent whiskies may not be as big and bold as in the past but now have more depth and elegance, which this Batch 12 has in abundance and that we prefer.

Review / Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 11

This new whisky is the latest bottling in the popular annual cask strength series from the east Highland distillery of Glendronach. The Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 11 is a celebration of both natural strength whisky and of Glendronach's heavily sherried style. It has been created by Dr. Rachel Barrie, the Master Blender for Glendronach, using a combination of spirit matured in Spanish oak ex-Oloroso and ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry casks.

The Batch 11 has been bottled at 59.8% ABV and is limited in number, although the exact quantity has not been revealed. It is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour. It will be available in specialist whisky retailers in selected global markets. A bottle will cost £68/ $78 US.

The Glendronach distillery was founded in 1826 by James Allardice and is located in the Aberdeenshire countryside, close to the town of Huntly. The majority of the present buildings date from 1850 when the distillery was rebuilt following a devastating fire. It was the last in Scotland to use stills directly fired by coal - this practice only finished in 2005. The distillery is known for its use of high quality ex-sherry casks and is currently owned by Brown-Forman, who took control in 2016. The annual production has recently increased to around two million litres.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep amber and the nose is full of deep and rich aromas. Cognac-soaked raisins, prune, figs and sultanas rise first and are then followed by further aromas of candied orange peel, toasted nuts and caramel. In the background there are hints of orange oil, marzipan and treacle tart.

On the palate this whisky is equally as deep and rich as the nose suggested. The dark dried fruits dominate to begin with and these follow a similar track as before - there are plenty of raisins, sultanas and candied citrus peel on offer, plus deeper notes of prune, fig and dates. Caramel and treacle sit underneath and alongside some increasingly heavy woody and baking spice. This gives warmth and further depth. The spices threaten to become too influential but just about hold themselves back enough. Hints of toasted nuts (especially hazelnut and walnut), marzipan and orange oils sit alongside further hints of cocoa, milk chocolate and some late warming gingerbread.

The finish is superbly long and warming. The sweet caramel-like and dried fruit notes drag the finish out. As they slowly fade, the drier woodier and spicer notes take hold, There is also an increasing earthy and dusty note, which always comes from older whiskies maturing in good quality ex-sherry casks. Delicious.

What's the verdict?

This latest offering of the Glendronach Cask Strength is very good and shows everything that consumers love about the distillery. Their bold spirit works superbly well with ex-sherry casks and the aromas and flavours are heightened by the higher ABV. This should keep both Glendronach fanatics and new fans happy. The only slight negative was that the mid-palate comes dangerously close to becoming too woody and tannic, but thankfully reins it in just in time.