Review / The Diageo Special Releases 2023 : Spirited Xchange

It is that time of the year again. Each Autumn the Special Releases are released by Diageo, Scotland’s largest producer of whisky. The 2023 Edition features eight whiskies selected from across their 28 single malt distilleries. The series carries the …



It is that time of the year again. Each Autumn the Special Releases are released by Diageo, Scotland's largest producer of whisky. The 2023 Edition features eight whiskies selected from across their 28 single malt distilleries. The series carries the title of Spirited Xchange this year and each whisky has been selected by Dr. Stuart Morrison, one of Diageo's Master Blenders.

The Special Releases first appeared in 2001 and have been released annually ever since. The collection has grown to be eagerly anticipated by whisky fans, consumers and collectors around the world. The whiskies included each year are designed to showcase some of the best and rarest whisky, both single malt and single grain, held within Diageo's extensive portfolio of maturing stocks.

The 2023 collection feature eight whiskies, which are accompanied by exquisite labels and packaging. These have been designed by eight illustrators and artists from around the world, who have tried to capture the essence and tasting notes of each whisky in their design. Highlights of this year's Special Releases are the first ever bottling of Roseisle and the oldest ever official release of Glenkinchie.

The Diageo Special Releases 2023 : Spirited Xchange are available in limited quantities via specialist whisky and luxury retailers in selected markets worldwide including Asia, Australia, Canada, Europe, UK and USA, plus selected travel retail outlets and www.malts.com. Details of each whisky including ABV strength, cask make up and price are below.

"This collection has given us the opportunity to roam freely through our vast portfolio and experiment with old and new cask types, including various wine and local spirits casks to create eight one-of-a-kind expressions." 
Dr. Stuart Morrison. 
 
Our Tasting Notes
 

Clynelish / The Jazz Crescendo
10 years old / Highlands / 57.5% ABV / Matured exclusively in American oak first-fill ex-bourbon casks / £165

The colour is golden yellow and the nose has aromas of honey, vanilla and peach with hints of candle wax and dusty, woody spices. On the palate this whisky has a slightly oily texture and is immediately confected and fruity. Notes of peach and apricot mingle with caramelised pineapple and crisp red apple. This is backed up by honey, vanilla fudge and boiled fruit sweets. Underneath is an evolving dusty spiciness that is reminiscent of an old cigar box - think of cinnamon, sandalwood, white pepper and a whiff of dried tobacco leaf. The finish is long, peppery and drying. This is especially true once the sweet and fruity elements have slowly faded. The apricot lingers longest of these and has a jam-like feel.



Glenkinchie / The Floral Treasure
27 years old / Lowlands / 58.3% ABV /  Matured in re-fill American oak barrels & European oak butts / £340

The colour is deep gold and the nose is very floral with aromas of jasmine, honeysuckle and pink peppercorns up front. Then come further aromas of vanilla and crisp green apple. On the palate it is the vanilla that hits first - think of a high quality vanilla custard especially. Then comes some fruit - green apple again but with hints of ripe tropical fruit and apricot jam. Everything is underpinned with a distinct malty characteristic and a dried grassy note that develops with time. The finish is long and filled with plenty of warming woody spices and a hint of gingerbread. A pinch of white pepper and juicy pineapple round things off as the floral notes reappear at the death. Delicious.



Lagavulin / The Ink of Legends
12 years old / Islay / 56.4% ABV / Finished in ex-Don Julio Tequila casks / £155

The colour is pale lemon yellow and the nose is big, bold and peaty. Peppery aromas of bonfire ash and green moss lead the way, and sit alongside something bright and vegetal - this is most reminiscent of green capsicum pepper. On the palate this whisky is initially fiery and peppery. Dying bonfire embers and charcoal lead the way and these notes are quickly joined by damp seaweed, moss and cigar ash. White chocolate and vanilla fudge add much needed sweetness. Underneath is a distinct vegetal quality - think of charred or grilled capsicums and agave-like earthiness. The finish is long and vibrant with plenty of the bold peppery spices and punchy peat smoke on offer. A late twist of lemon zest is a nice touch.

 

Oban / The Soul of Calypso
11 years old / Highlands / 58% ABV / Finished in Caribbean ex-pot still rum casks / £140

The colour is a pale gold and the nose is bright and vibrant with a sweet and confected edge. Aromas of white chocolate and vanilla fudge combine with zesty citrus and ripe tropical fruits. On the palate this whisky is immediately fresh and juicy with the fruity notes popping. Ripe tropical fruit (especially pineapple, papaya and a hint of lychee), green mango and crisp apple lead the way and are balanced well by an evolving distinct malty note. The white chocolate and vanilla fudge from the nose come through well, as does an icing sugar like sweetness. The confected nature slowly fades to reveal more of the maltiness and a distinct hot and peppery finish. Takes water well.

 

Mortlach / The Katana's Edge
No age statement / Speyside / 58% ABV / Finished in ex-Kanusoke Japanese whisky & ex-Pinot Noir wine casks / £250

The colour is deep gold and the nose is rich and bold. Aromas of hard caramel and peanut brittle come through, plus some milk chocolate and something very savoury and umami-like. On the palate this whisky has a distinct sweet vs. savoury vibe going on. Dusty and earthy umami notes, plus a hint of dried porcini mushroom are evident and they marry with sweet toffee and caramel. The combination is intriguing. Later notes of vanilla cream and orange marmalade add further depth and complexity, as do hints of candy floss and marshmallow. An underlying note of baking spice binds everything together well - think of cinnamon bark, clove and nutmeg.

 

Roseisle / The Origami Kite
12 years old / Speyside / 56.5% ABV / Matured in first-fill & re-fill ex-bourbon casks / £120

The colour is vibrant gold and the nose is highly perfumed. Floral aromas of jasmine, plus green apple, hazelnut and freshly cut grass are all evident. It is a heady mix. On the palate this whisky feels soft, creamy and velvety. A lovely note of apple crumble appears first - think of cooked apple, cinnamon and brown sugar especially. Further sweetness comes in the form of a hint of cream soda. Then comes some vanilla and fresh honeycomb straight from the hive. The floral and grassy notes from the nose sit in the background and add depth. The same can be said for some warming spices - cinnamon again, plus clove and all-spice a pinch of white pepper at the end. A delightful whisky.

 

The Singleton of Glendullan / The Silken Gown
14 years old / Speyside / 55% ABV / Finished in French oak ex-Chardonnay de Bourgogne casks / £132

The colour is golden yellow and the nose fresh, green and elegant. Aromas of crisp green apple and pear are complimented by fudge and toffee with pinches of cinnamon and white pepper. On the palate this whisky is soft and gentle with delicious notes of vanilla, heather honey and plump juicy sultana. Then come the lovely green orchard fruits from the nose - apple and pear again especially. The green and grassy nature continues - think of dried grass or hay. Underneath sits a delicate malty note that gives structure, plus hints of candied orange peel. Warming spices in the form of powdered ginger and cinnamon, plus white pepper drag out the finish.

 

Talisker / The Wild Exporador
No age statement / Skye / 59.7% ABV / Finished in a combination of ex-Ruby, ex-Tawny & ex-White Port casks / £120

The colour is coppery amber and the nose is fruity and a little fiery. Aromas of sultana and candied lemon lead the way, followed by red apple and green grape. A dusty spicy undertone sits underneath as well as peppery peat smoke. On the palate this whisky is initially a bit hot and spicy. Smouldering bonfire ash and mineralic peat smoke dominate to begin with. These notes evolve into coal tar soap and crispy salted bacon. Sweetness come through in the form of toffee, butterscotch and sugary sultana. Hints of candied lemon, malted biscuits and cookie dough are also evident. The finish is hot and ash-like - this gives a peppery feel and makes it super drying towards the end.


Diageo Special Releases 2023 – Spirited Xchange

While the weather seems to have forgotten that it’s autumn, Diageo has not, and the latest instalment of the company’s much anticipated annual drop of tasty things has arrived. Please welcome the Diageo Special Releases…

Originally published on The Whisky Exchange Blog – Diageo Special Releases 2023 – Spirited Xchange

While the weather seems to have forgotten that it’s autumn, Diageo has not, and the latest instalment of the company’s much anticipated annual drop of tasty things has arrived. Please welcome the Diageo Special Releases 2023 – Spirited Xchange.

What are the Diageo Special Releases?

If you’re new to the Special Releases, it’s quite simple. This range of bottlings pops up once year to showcase different takes on whiskies from Diageo’s various Scottish distilleries. There are old favourites that appear regularly, rare expressions from distilleries that don’t get much love and surprising twists on classic single malts. On top of that, the past few years have seen themes appearing across the range, tying the whole lot together under a unifying concept.

This year’s Special Releases are particulalry special to us, as they were launched at Whisky Show, our annual celebration of all things whisky. Stuart Morrison – the malt master behind the range – was on hand at the event to answer everyone’s questions, and give us an insight into how he created these remarkable bottlings.

If you’d like to learn more about previous years, check out the links at the end of the post or head to The Diageo Special Releases – What are they?

The 2023 Edition

The Diageo Special Releases 2023

The past few years have been all change in the Diageo blending rooms as Stuart Morrison has taken over Craig Wilson’s role as head of the Special Releases. Stuart’s moved things in a different direction to the past few years of Craig’s stewardship, and the Diageo Special Releases 2023 look beyond Scotland’ s borders for influences from other countries, wines, spirits and cultures.

Spirited Xchange

While Diageo is best known for its whiskies (and maybe a little bit for Guinness and Smirnoff), the company has its fingers in many other pies. Not only does it own distilleries around the world it also, through its Distill Ventures wing, supports new producers who are doing something a little different.

The 2023 Special Releases takes a selection of familiar names – and one less so – and looks at them through a lens of collaboration. The result is eight expressions influenced by a spirited (e)xchange of ideas.

And with that, it’s time to talk whisky…

The Singleton of Glendullan 14yo The Silken Gown

55% / £132

The first bottle in the range is from Glendullan distillery in Speyside. Inspired by the fashion houses of France, it showcases the distillery’s rounded and fruity spirit finished in Chardonnay de Bourgogne casks – white wine casks from Burgundy. The wine itself is a rich and rounded expression of the grape’s character which melds very well with the whisky, adding depth, complexity and yet more fruitiness to the spirit.

Nose: Sweet shops to begin: peach Haribo, rhubarb and custards, sherbet lemons and barley sugar. Notes of cream and sour apple develop over time.

Palate: We’ve moved down the road to the baker’s now, with lemon shortbread and custard slices joined by milk chocolate, speculoos spices and plump sultanas.

Finish: Floral notes initially dominate, slowly fading to reveal sultanas, toffee apples and more of the speculoos spiciness.

Buy The Singleton of Glendullan 14yo The Silken Gown >

Oban 11yo The Soul of Calypso

Oban 11yo The Soul of Calypso

58% / £150

Oban is very much a seaside town, with a history tied closely to the sea. Its whisky is likewise coastal, with briny sea spray and oranges incongruously and pleasantly combined. When looking for an overseas pairing for this characterful single malt, our whisky makers looked to the Caribbean for inspiration. While the tropical islands of the Americas may not be the first place you might think of twinning with a fishing town on the west coast of Scotland, it’s the spirit that really brings the two locations together – Oban even has a couple of palm trees.

This expression has been finished in casks previously filled with Caribbean (exact origin undisclosed) pot-still rum, adding extra layers of fruit, toffee and spice to the distillery’s softly maritime spirit.

Nose: Apple, banana, barley sugar, white pepper, toffee touches and a hint of mint imperial. Waxy fruit notes develop, accompanied by soft, spring-meadow flowers.

Palate: Richly textured and layered. Red apples sit on top of flowers, and sweet and sharper green apple notes. Pepperiness builds with a background of slightly unripe mango and orange oil

Finish: Gently peppery spice, even more apples, orange peel and mango skin.

Buy Oban 11yo The Soul of Calypso >

Clynelish 10yo The jazz Crescendo

Clynelish 11yo The Jazz Crescendo

57.5% / £165

A second appearance in a row for Clynelish and, for those who remember the Select Reserve, it has an age statement – 10 years old. Clynelish makes a versatile spirit, and while older editions are sublime, more youthful expressions can be juicy and packed with flavour, especially when paired with sympathetic maturation in American oak, like this dram.

Its inspiration is the USA and its music, exclusively using first-fill bourbon casks to give a bit of extra weight, gravitas and a nod to the complexity of jazz.

Nose: Waxed red apples (we’re in proper Clynelish territory), dolly mixtures, barley sugar, lemon travel sweets, meadow flowers and piles of flower petals dusted with sugar.

Palate: Weightier than the nose suggests, with a rich texture balancing out thick juiciness, soft spice and layers of vanilla. The sweets and flowers from the nose return, along with a touch of oaky spice and wax-polished oak.

Finish: Vanilla, white pepper and sweet apple sauce.

Buy Clynelish 10yo The Jazz Crescendo >

Roseisle 12yo The Origami Kite

Roseisle 12yo The Origami Kite

56.5% / £120

The one we’ve all been waiting for – the first release from Roseisle. Diageo’s newest Scottish distillery, affectionately known to whisky geeks as ‘The Death Star,’ is far more than a technological terror. Set up to be hugely versatile, with a variety of stills (and even an option to use stainless steel condensers, for all you meaty-spirit geeks), it can create a wide range of whisky styles, including some that replicate those found at other Diageo distilleries.

The spirit here is described as ‘medium bodied’ in the release notes, but that hides a complex combination of grassy, fruity and earthy spirits. The casks used are simply first and refill bourbon. letting us clearly see the complex compilation of spirits. The inspiration: the complex folds of origami, represented on the label by a delicate and floaty kite.

Nose: Moss, bracken and damp bark at first, with a muskiness that slowly recedes to reveal pear skin, classic bourbon-cask vanilla and toffee. Fruity apples, fresh figs, and grassy meadow notes develop.

Palate: Thick on the palate although with a crisper flavour than that might suggest. The apples from the nose are drizzles with cream, dotted with sultanas and dusted with oaky spice.

Finish: Layers of fruit, light and custardy vanilla, and a lingering musky oak spice. Very long.

Buy Roseisle 12yo The Origami Kite >

Glenkinchie 27yo The Floral Treasure

Glenkinchie 27yo The Floral Treasure

58.3% / £340

Glenkinchie has long been one of Diageo’s key single malts, rising to prominence as part of the Classic Malts range, and now remains one of the two lowland distilleries that have remained in production while others have closed, and now new ones have opened. We’ve not often seen a whisky from the distillery in the Special Releases, with only three previous bottlings, and none since 2016. As a lighter and more floral whisky, it doesn’t always get the spotlight that it deserves, and I’m pleased to see it pop up on the list here.

This elegant dram is inspired by the delicacy of Chinese porcelain, and is matured in refill casks – American and European oak barrels and butts – laid down at the distillery in its cool warehouses. Stuart Morrison used to look after Glenkinchie’s whiskies and has been keeping on eye on these casks for years, waiting for them to be ready. They’ve finally hit their mark, and the result is my favourite whisky of the line up.

Nose: Star fruit and white flowers. Crunchy apples, polished oak and floral perfume, backed up by old-fashioned sweetshop notes and a touch of white chocolate (the good stuff).

Palate: Hugely floral – the classic, old-fashioned Lowland style. Fresh and sweet apples, a touch of waxiness and wax polish, and well-integrated, well-structured oak.

Finish: Meadow flowers, freshly mown grass and gentle sweetness.

Buy Glenkinchie 27yo The Floral Treasure >

Mortlach The Katana’s Edge

Mortach The Katana's Edge

58% / £250

Mortlach has become the meaty heart of the Special Releases range. Meatiness is very much the connective element here, looking eastwards to Japan and the country’s obsession with umami – the mysterious fifth, savoury taste. This release takes the rich Speyside spirit and combines it not only with ex-Pinot Noir red wine casks, but also ex-Japanese whisky casks from Kanosuke distillery in the south of Japan.

As a Japanophile and a big fan of Kanosuke (and the shochus that owners Komasa Jyozo make at their other distillery down the road – ask me about their crazy four-lyne-armed horizontal pot still if you find me in the pub) this is the whisky I was most looking forward to trying.

Nose: Sesame crackers, sultanas and cream to start. Sour Japanese plums, singed toffee, soft peppery notes and a gentle, almost incense-like muskiness.

Palate: Rich and creamy in texture, with the toffee from the nose leading into pear, crunchy spun sugar and cocoa. Drying oakiness is balanced by juicy apple sauce and black pepper, while candied fruit develops.

Finish: White chocolate and dark spice. Stewed apple and damp oak.

Buy Mortlach The Katana’s Edge >

Talisker The Wild Explorador

Talisker The Wild Explorador

59.7% / £120

With this release, Talisker has cemented itself as a mainstay of the modern Special Releases line-up. As the blending team have experimented with different casks across Diageo’s entire range of distilleries, Talisker has been the beneficiary of a range of tried-and-tested finishes. This bottling continues the work that started with Craig Wilson’s Talisker Port Ruighe by looking to Portugal for inspiration and adding more types of port to the mix. This is finished in tawny, ruby and white port casks.

Nose: Rich and leathery, with briny smoke – fresh but dark. Salty seas turn to warm black rubber and sweet bacon dusted with barbecue salt. Lime peel emerges along side the distilleries trademark black pepper spice.

Palate: Very definitely Talisker on the palate: salty seas and freshly ground black pepper. Sweet sultanas and dried orchard fruit are balanced by savoury wood and leather notes, and an all-encompassing but gentle peaty smokiness.

Finish: The black-pepper spice lingers with roasted apples and crisp sweetness.

Buy Talisker The Wild Explorador >

Lagavulin 12yo The Ink of Legends

Lagavulin 12yo The Ink of Legends

56.4% / £155

The Special Releases wouldn’t be the same without the Lagavulin 12 Year Old – a mainstay since the first ‘proper’ annual release in 2002. While it has traditionally been a raw Lagavulin with a focus on the distillery’s more elemental side, this year brings in inspiration from a spirit that has recently been controversial in whisky maturation: tequila.

While it might not seem traditional, the flavours of youthful whiskies – especially those from Islay – often cross over with the vegetal and spicy notes you find in tequila, and it seems both an obvious and strange match to me. This has been finished for a few months in casks that previous held Don Julio tequila, just enough to impart a little bit of the agave spirit’s peppery character.

Nose: The classic Lagavulin seaweed smokiness is slightly subdued, but is bolstered by mulchy leaves and sweet green peppers. Black pepper notes build, balanced by damp earth, peat smoke and brine.

Palate: Sweeter than the nose suggests, with a crisp smokiness and gentle spice. Leafy notes lead, both herbs and piles of damp, raked autumn leaves. Dark chocolate, mint and menthol hide at the back, with the middle ground covered with green peppers, black pepper and briny smoke.

Finish: Smoky liquorice, sweet orchard fruit and lingering green pepper.

Buy Lagavulin 12yo The Ink of Legends >

WHEN DO THE SPECIAL RELEASES 2022 ARRIVE?

They’re here! A little earlier than usual, but you can find all of the bottle (that we still have in stock) up on The Whisky Exchange website on our Diageo Special Releases 2023 page.

We also have stock in The Whisky Exchange’s London shops, so if you can’t find what you’re looking for online, give them a call to check what they have and pop buy to grab a bottle or two.


If you want to see what’s happened in previous years, we’ve got details and tasting notes for all the releases since 2008 here on the blog: 2008 pt1/2008 pt2200920102011201220132014201520162017, 2018, 20192020, 2021 and 2022.

We still have a few bottles from previous year’s releases – you can find them on our Diageo Special Releases page.

Originally published on The Whisky Exchange Blog – Diageo Special Releases 2023 – Spirited Xchange

Eight Special Single Malts…and a Cowboy Bourbon

We’ll have a double feature on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth, as Diageo’s Dr. Stuart Morrison joins us to detail this year’s Special Releases series –… Read More

We’ll have a double feature on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth, as Diageo’s Dr. Stuart Morrison joins us to detail this year’s Special Releases series – including a Lagavulin finished in tequila casks – and Donnis Todd of Texas’s Garrison Brothers Distillery gives us a preview of this year’s Cowboy Bourbon. It’s an uncut, unfiltered whopper of a Bourbon at 70.45% ABV! In the news, the TTB avoids being caught up in a U.S. government shutdown after Congress passed a short-term budget extension. Kentucky regulators want to shut down two of the state’s biggest buyers and sellers of vintage spirits over liquor law violations, and Scotch Whisky tourism has recovered from the pandemic. 

Episode 1024: October 1, 2023

Links: Diageo Special Releases | Garrison Brothers Distillery | Lexington Herald-Leader | Buffalo Trace | Whisky Auctioneer | Slane Irish Whiskey | Scotch Whisky Association | Wiggly Bridge Distillery | Blackened Whiskey | Ballantine’s | Duncan Taylor | Russell’s Reserve | Bunnahabhain | Dewar’s | Jack Daniel’s

News / The Diageo Special Releases 2023

It is that time of the year again. Each Autumn the Special Releases are released by Diageo, Scotland’s largest producer of whisky. The 2023 Edition features eight whiskies from across their 28 single malt distilleries, which show the diversity within t…

It is that time of the year again. Each Autumn the Special Releases are released by Diageo, Scotland's largest producer of whisky. The 2023 Edition features eight whiskies from across their 28 single malt distilleries, which show the diversity within their extensive portfolio. The series carries the title of Spirited Xchange this year and each whisky has been selected by Dr. Stuart Morrison, one of Diageo's Master Blenders.

The Spirited Xchange packaging illustrations have been created by eight artists from across the globe with the artworks serving as visual tasting notes for each whisky. The Diageo Special Releases 2023 are available now from www.malts.com and will get a wider world release following the official launch next week.
 
"This collection has given us the opportunity to roam freely through our vast portfolio and experiment with old and new cask types, including various wine and local spirits casks to create eight one-of-a-kind expressions."
Dr. Stuart Morrison.
 
We will be in attendance at the launch and will supply a full review, further details and tasting notes shortly afterwards. For now, please see the details for each of the eight bottlings below:
 
Clynelish / The Jazz Crescendo
10 years old / Highlands / 57.5% ABV / Matured exclusively in American oak first-fill ex-bourbon casks / £165

Glenkinchie / The Floral Treasure
27 years old / Lowlands / 58.3% ABV /  Matured in re-fill American oak barrels & European oak butts / £340

Lagavulin / The Ink of Legends
12 years old / Islay / 56.4% ABV / Finished in ex-Don Julio Tequila casks / £155
 
Oban / The Soul of Calypso
11 years old / Highlands / 58% ABV / Finished in Caribbean ex-pot still rum casks / £140
 
Mortlach / The Katana's Edge
No age statement / Speyside / 58% ABV / Finished in ex-Kanusoke Japanese whisky & ex-Pinot Noir wine casks / £250
 
Roseisle / The Origami Kite
12 years old / Speyside / 56.5% ABV / Matured in first-fill & re-fill ex-bourbon casks / £120
 
The Singleton of Glendullan / The Silken Gown
14 years old / Speyside / 55% ABV / Finished in French oak ex-Chardonnay de Bourgogne casks / £132
 
Talisker / The Wild Exporador
No age statement / Skye / 59.7% ABV / Finished in a combination of ex-Ruby, ex-Tawny & ex-White Port casks / £120


Experiments in Whisky (Episode 1001: April 23, 2023)

Dr. Bill Lumsden has been experimenting at both Ardbeg and Glenmorangie distilleries. His latest Ardbeg release, Heavy Vapours, involved taking part of the distilling system out of the picture just because he wanted to see what would happen if he did. At Glenmorangie, he has a whole year’s worth of projects for his experimental Lighthouse distillery. We’ll catch up with whisky’s mad scientist on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth. In the news, Scotland’s controversial alcohol marketing restrictions have been sent back to the drawing board, while the equally controversial deposit return scheme for bottles has been pushed back to next March. Read More »

Dr. Bill Lumsden has been experimenting at both Ardbeg and Glenmorangie distilleries. His latest Ardbeg release, Heavy Vapours, involved taking part of the distilling system out of the picture just because he wanted to see what would happen if he did. At Glenmorangie, he has a whole year’s worth of projects for his experimental Lighthouse distillery. We’ll catch up with whisky’s mad scientist on this week’s WhiskyCast In-Depth. In the news, Scotland’s controversial alcohol marketing restrictions have been sent back to the drawing board, while the equally controversial deposit return scheme for bottles has been pushed back to next March. We’ll also have details on a new distillery in Kentucky…that was quietly built six years ago.


Links: Ardbeg | Glenmorangie | Scotch Whisky Association | Heaven’s Door | Bushmills | BenRiach | Buffalo Trace | Blood Oath | Booker’s Bourbon | Diageo Distillers Edition | Bunnahabhain | Deanston | Gordon & MacPhail | Scotch Malt Whisky Society | Glencairn Crystal

Johnnie Walker Takes The High Rye Road

Blended whiskymaker Johnnie Walker has released a high-rye profile blended Scotch whisky to their core range. Johnnie Walker High Rye Blended Scotch Whisky was aged in American oak barrels and contains a mash bill of 60% rye, was bottled at 40% alcohol by volume [80 proof] and contains blends of the Cameronbridge, Caol Ila, Cardhu, […]

Blended whiskymaker Johnnie Walker has released a high-rye profile blended Scotch whisky to their core range.

Johnnie Walker High Rye Blended Scotch Whisky was aged in American oak barrels and contains a mash bill of 60% rye, was bottled at 40% alcohol by volume [80 proof] and contains blends of the Cameronbridge, Caol Ila, Cardhu, Glenkinchie and Teaninich distilleries.

Johnnie Walker High Rye Blended Scotch Whisky is being made available in the USA for $35 per 750ml bottle.

Glenkinchie 9 Years Old 2009 Distillery Exclusive

Dry and woody sweetness, primarily cask-derived initially then some interesting and green tropical fruit notes from Glenkinchie’s spirit. Fascinating to try something cask strength from here. 86/100

Dry and woody sweetness, primarily cask-derived initially then some interesting and green tropical fruit notes from Glenkinchie's spirit. Fascinating to try something cask strength from here. 86/100

Glenkinchie Tattoo Edition

Fuller and more flavoured than the standard 12 year old and the addition of some extra fruity notes adds substance where often I find it to be lacking or a bit thin at least. Perhaps the delivery at 46% ABV has really helped here. 84/100

Fuller and more flavoured than the standard 12 year old and the addition of some extra fruity notes adds substance where often I find it to be lacking or a bit thin at least. Perhaps the delivery at 46% ABV has really helped here. 84/100

Distillery Visit / Glenkinchie

Despite having been to Edinburgh for work and pleasure on numerous occasions, we had somehow never got around to visiting Glenkinchie. For much of its recent history this unassuming distillery was the closest to Scotland’s capital and attracted many vi…



Despite having been to Edinburgh for work and pleasure on numerous occasions, we had somehow never got around to visiting Glenkinchie. For much of its recent history this unassuming distillery was the closest to Scotland's capital and attracted many visitors because of the fact. Now it has increasing competition with the Holyrood distillery built right in the centre of Edinburgh and a couple more new ones out in Leith. So what have owners Diageo done? Given it a major revamp and made it even more important than ever.

Glenkinchie is now the official Lowland home of Johnnie Walker, the world's best selling Scotch whisky of which its single malt is an important component. The distillery is one of four dotted around Scotland that each play a similarly influential role within the famous blended range. The other three official regional homes of Johnnie Walker that form Diageo's Four Corners of Scotland are Caol Ila on Islay, Cardhu in Speyside and Clynelish in the Highlands. Each has been renovated to tell each distillery's individual story within the wider Johnnie Walker tale.

The initial impression of the redesigning at Glenkinchie is favourable. A winding path weaves through an impressive newly created garden with the original distillery burn running through it. Entry is through a revolving glass door that brings you into the ticketing area and a large open gift shop that is stacked with Glenkinchie and Johnnie Walker goodies, plus other treats from around Diageo's other single malt distilleries. The brick building was a former two-storey maturation warehouse.

Entry through the gift shop.

Our tour guide was Ramsey Borthwick, a man that we had last met nearly eight years previously when he was manager at the Port Ellen Maltings on Islay. He moved to Glenkinchie six years ago and has been Distillery Manager ever since. A sharp ring of the distillery's former 'dramming bell' got everyones attention and signalled the beginning of the tour. 

A bit of history kicked things off - Glenkinchie was founded in 1825 by George and John Rate as a farm distillery named Milton, gaining a full license to distil and changing to its current name in 1837. We also learned that Glenkinchie is known as 'the garden distillery' in reference to its location within the fertile East Lothian farmland. And that the first official link between Glenkinchie and Johnnie Walker was in 1894.

Next stop is The Sensory Room, the like of which we cannot remember seeing as part of a regular distillery tour. This extraordinary room has ambient music playing, is creatively lit and designed to show you the 'thumbprint of Glenkinchie'. This is done through a series of perfumed fragrances sprayed onto sticks that encourage you to think about key characteristics of Glenkinchie's single malt. Floral, grassy and cereals are the three we identified.

Inside The Sensory Room.

We continued through to an equally impressive but much older room. This housed the most incredible model of a distillery, which is at 1:6 scale. The stunning model was built for the British Empire Exhibition, which took place at Wembley between April and October 1924. Incredibly it is fully operational. Also within this room is an original pamphlet about Glenkinchie written by legendary whisky writer Alfred Barnard. This priceless artifact is one of the only known copies in existence and was given by an anonymous donor.

Not a real distillery.

Then we moved on to the distillery proper. No more marketing or experiential interactions, just good honest production. This began with the old mill made by the Porteus company, who famously went bankrupt because their mills never broke down and no one purchased a replacement. These red workhorses are still seen at distilleries all over Scotland. The mill feeds a 10 tonne stainless steel mash tun, which sits in a compact room. They currently operate 10 mashes per week. 

The mash tun.

Next is the fermentation room which is up some stairs away from the mash tun. This is a lovely room and always one of our favourite places within any distillery. The six wooden washbacks made of Oregon pine, the oldest of which is an amazing 65 years old. The youngest was installed in 2020. The fermentation times vary but averages at around 75 hours. One for the whisky geeks - Glenkinchie is a hard water site and therefore experiences a significant build up of iron oxilate in the washbacks.

The washbacks. Spot the really old one ...

The stills at Glenkinchie,which date back to the 1960s, are massive. The wash still has the largest charge by volume of any still in mainland Scotland (only Bunnahabhain on Islay beats it, if you want to know). This 30,000 litre monster carries out the first distillation and works alongside a smaller spirit still, which completes the second distillation. That said, it is still massive with a 21,000 litre capacity. Glenkinchie's output is around 2.5 million litres of spirit per year.

The largest stills by volume in mainland Scotland.

Glenkinchie is one of the few distilleries in Scotland to still use wormtubs for condensing. This traditional method of condensing the alcohol vapours back to a liquid sees a coiled copper pipe coming from the still and spiralling down through a tank of cold water. Sadly we were unable to see this, which was a shame as it always feels like a treat and looking back into the past.

The final part of the tour takes in a small warehouse experience and a tasting. It is here where the Johnnie Walker link is reconnected for the first time since The Sensory Room. Different casks are available the sniff and show how the single malts and single grain whiskies within Johnnie Walker's blends are influenced by them. The Tasting Room is a very nice space. Sleekly designed and with a huge flavour wheel on the wall, it feels like a good place for a tasting. The samples on offer were the classic Glenkinchie 12 years old, the limited Tattoo Edition and Johnnie Walker Gold Label.

The Tasting Room.

Then we were back in the shop and the tour was over. It was an impressive blend of the new and the traditional. The innovation and most of the Johnnie Walker Four Corners redesign seemed to bookend the experience. The production side remains largely untouched aside from the occaional wall graphic here and there. This was good to see as much of the tradition could easily have been lost. Glenkinchie is a working distillery after all and that came across very well. Ultimately, the integration of the Johnnie Walker message has been sympathetically done and makes the distillery well worth that short drive from Edinburgh.

Tours 
Prices start from £13 with some including a shuttle bus from the centre of Edinburgh. For full details of tickets available and timings - click here.