highlands - BourbonSphere

Review / Glenglassaugh Sandend & Portsoy

These two whiskies form part of the revamped core range from the coastal Highland distillery of Glenglassaugh. The complete brand overhaul includes new packaging and three new whiskies - both are said to be influenced by the land and sea and the vibrant coastal spirit produced at Glenglassaugh. Alongside Portsoy and Sandend is the 12 years old - the first age statement featuring whisky distilled at Glenglassaugh since it reopened after a lengthy closure in 2008. We plan to review this shortly.

The Glenglassaugh distillery is located on the North Sea coast of Aberdeenshire. It was founded in 1875 by James Moir and his nephews, Alexander and William Morrison. The whisky was popular with blending companies and has historically been used in brands such as Famous Grouse and Cutty Sark. The distillery has had an intermittent history with three long periods of closure, the most recent being between 1986 and 2008.

Glenglassaugh was then purchased and renovated by the Scaent Group, who also inherited around 400 old casks of maturing whisky. The first new spirit flowed in November 2008. It has since been through two more ownership changes - first the Benriach Distillery Co. and then the current owners Brown-Forman. The production is 250,000 litres per year, although the capacity is around one million. The name translates as 'valley of the grey green grass' from Gaelic.

The Glenglassaugh Sandend and Portsoy have been created by Dr. Rachel Barrie, the Master Blender for Glenglassaugh. Glenglassaugh Sandend is named after the sweeping crescent beach of Sandend Bay, which the distillery overlooks. It has been matured in ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and ex-manzanilla sherry casks and is bottled at 50.5% ABV. A bottle will cost £55.

Portsoy uses the distillery's rare peated spirit and is named after the nearby ancient fishing village of Portsoy. It has been matured in ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and ex-Port casks and is bottled at 49.1% ABV. A bottle will cost £60. Both will be available in specialist whisky retailers worldwide.

Our tasting notes

Glenglassaugh Sandend

The colour is straw gold and the nose is sweet and fruity with a hint of salinity. Aromas of honey, vanilla fudge and juicy sultana rise from the glass along with candied lemon, green apple and plenty of tropical fruit - think of pineapple, mango and papaya in particular. There are also hints of white chocolate and toasted nuts.

On the palate this whisky is bright and vibrant with the delicious sweet and fruity notes from the nose continuing. The tropical fruits are right up front now - pineapple, mango, papaya again plus a hint of peach - but are quickly joined by juicy raisin and soft ripe green apple. There is also a hint of cooked pear. Then come honey, vanilla essence and butterscotch. Sitting in the background are some warming woody spices (cinnamon especially), a little drying oak plus something reminiscent of hay or straw and yeasty note that is like freshly baked bread. The finish is long with a distinct apple-like quality drawing it out. This is a very summery and juicy dram.

Glenglassaugh Portsoy

The colour is coppery amber and the nose is packed with aromas of caramel, dried fruits and soft gentle sweet peat smoke. It feels rich and honeyed with warming spices coming through the smoke, along with a hint of cocoa powder and orange oil. The balance between peat and sweetness is very enticing.

On the palate this whisky continues on the rich and honeyed theme. There are plenty of autumnal ripe orchard fruits on show - think apple and pear especially - plus a selection of stone fruits including apricot and plum. The sweet and gentle peat smoke wraps around everything and has a warming edge with a pinch of spice - this is more earthy home fire than bonfire. Hint of chocolate and gingerbread ofurther add to the depth and complexity. The finish is long, well rounded and balanced although a touch ashy towards the end. This feels like an autumnal whisky and a big hug in a glass.

What's the verdict?

We were excited to hear about the Glenglassaugh revamp and are very impressed with both of these whiskies. We cannot wait to sample the 12 years old now. We are also impressed with the packaging redesign which adds a luxurious feel to the brand. This reflects its small capacity and rarity. As for the two whiskies, we liked them both. They push the spirit in differing directions - one juicy, fruity and luscious with the other more rich, moody and smoky - but both work well and are superbly balanced.

We also like that they have been bottled at higher ABV strengths as this seems to really bring out the aromas and flavours to make them pop. The prices are not too naughty either and you seem to get plenty for your money. Big applause all round to Rachel and the team for Sandend and Portsoy, and for giving Glenglassaugh some of the love and attention that the younger liquids deserve.

Review / Glenturret 35 years old

The Highland distillery of Glenturret, which is the oldest currently in operation in Scotland, has revealed the line-up of its core range for 2023. Several of the releases have appeared in previous years but each has a different recipe. The Glenturret 2023 Edition also features this Glenturret 35 years old for the first time, which is the oldest to appear in the range since the new format changed in 2020. There are eight whiskies in total - the Glenturret Triple Wood, 7 years old Peat Smoked, 10 years old Peat Smoked, 12 years old, 15 years old, 25 years old and 30 years old.

Glenturret is located in the Perthshire town of Crieff and was founded by a group of illicit whisky producers in 1775. It was originally a small farm operation called Hosh Distillery and was finally legalised in 1837 when John Drummond took over. The name was only changed to Glenturret in 1875 on the 100th anniversary.

Glenturret is one of the smaller distilleries in Scotland with an annual production capacity of only 150,000 litres. It is also one of the most traditional with most work completed by hand. The current owners are Lalique, the famous jewellery and crystal producer, who took over in 2018.

The Glenturret 35 years old is created from just a single European oak ex-Oloroso butt that was distilled and filled in 1988, which has yielded just 185 bottles. It is released at 42.8% ABV and was hand selected by Bob Dalgarno, the Master Blender for Glenturret. It is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour. It will be available in luxury and whisky retailers in selected markets globally. A bottle will cost £5,000.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep mahogany amber and the nose is rich, savoury and expressive. Aromas of lush tropical fruits - think of pineapple, apricot and peach especially - combine with delicious warming wood spices (imagine cinnamon, cedarwood and sandalwood). Also present are aromas of raisin and crystalised ginger, along with hints of vanilla and menthol.

On the palate this whisky is initially superbly sweet before becoming more savoury. Notes of caramel and golden syrup dominate early on and are supported well by the lush ripe tropical fruits from the nose. Mango is more evident now and sits alongside the pineapple, peach and apricot. Then comes a note of baked custard tart and soft green apple.

Then come a lovely set of savoury notes. Elegant and warming baking spices, such as cinnamon and gingerbread, mingle with antique notes of old furniture and dusty cigar box. These are notes that only come with advanced age and cannot be recreated otherwise. The combination with the sweeter and fruitier notes is sublime.

The finish is long and lingering with the tropical characteristics lingering well. Once these begin to fade along with the other sweeter elements then the old oak and warming spices take hold. They drag the finish out even further with an exquisite complexity.

What's the verdict?

The Glenturret 35 years old is a fantastic whisky and one that shows just how good old whisky can be with sympathetic cask management. Of course it is expensive, but then all whisky of 25+ years is these days. It may not be a 'whisky for everyone' but it will definitely be a 'whisky for someone'. The rarity of this whisky made it a real treat to sample and if you get the opportunity, then you should do the same. Fabulous stuff.

Review / Cù Bòcan 12 years old

This whisky is the latest addition to the core range of innovative peated Highland single malt Cù Bòcan (pronounced koo-bock-an). The Cù Bòcan 12 years old features spirit that is matured for a short period each winter at the Tomatin distillery near I…

This whisky is the latest addition to the core range of innovative peated Highland single malt Cù Bòcan (pronounced koo-bock-an). The Cù Bòcan 12 years old features spirit that is matured for a short period each winter at the Tomatin distillery near Inverness. The new bottling features part-maturation in ex-rum casks sourced from the Caribbean. These have come from Barbados and Guyana in particular. Prior to that, maturation was in ex-bourbon barrels. The whisky is released at 46% ABV and is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour, It will be produced in small batches annually. The Cù Bòcan 12 years old will be available in selected specialist whisky retailers worldwide and will cost £65/ $US80.

Tomatin is located in the Scottish Highlands, about half way between Aviemore and Inverness. It was founded in 1897 by a group of Inverness businessmen and was originally named Tomatin Spey. It then became Tomatin, the name of the local village, in 1907. Tomatin is currently owned by the Takara Shuzo Corporation, who purchased the distillery in 1986 after the previous ownership had been liquidated. It has a current annual capacity of five million litres.

Our tasting notes

The colour is pale lemon yellow and the nose is highly fragrant, sweet and confected. Aromas of brown sugar, white chocolate and soft nougat rise from the glass and are supported by delightful hints of caramelised tropical fruit - think of pineapple and peach especially. Underneath are further hints of gingerbread, vanilla fudge and a gentle whiff of sweet peat smoke.

On the palate this whisky is immediate more smoky than the nose suggests. This has a leafy and ash-like edge, which creates a drying quality. The peat is sweet but on the vegetal side - think of damp moss and dried heather in particular. The level is good as it does not dominate, but sits well amongst the other characteristics.

The distinct confected sweetness remains in evidence. White chocolate and nougat are again to the fore, as are notes of toasted marshmallow and tarte tatin. Vanilla, sweet gingerbread and a hint of honey add to this. Ripe and caramelised tropical fruits are also never far away - imagine barbequed pineapple, plus juicy mango and peach. The mix is lovely.

The finish is of decent length, which is increased by the smoky aspect of the whisky. The confected notes begin to fade, as do the the tropical fruit elements. This leaves the drying smoke and a pinch of peppery spice to dry things out and drag out the finish. A little heat comes through right at the end.

What's the verdict?

This latest expression of Cù Bòcan is another lovely addition to the ever-expanding range of the Highland peated malt. It has become known for its experimentation in its numerous limited editions and it is good to see this spreading to the core range. The use of ex-rum casks from the Caribbean here has lifted the whisky and provided it with plenty of sweetness and vibrancy. This 12 years old is delicious, reasonably priced and easy to recommend.

Review / Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12

The new whisky is the latest limited addition to the Cask Strength series from the Highland distillery of Glendronach. The Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12 has used whiskies of differing ages matured in ex-Pedro Ximénez and ex-Oloroso sherry casks from Andalucía in the south of Spain. The whisky has been created by Dr. Rachel Barrie, the Master Blender for Glendronach. The series was started by former owner Billy Walker and has gained somewhat of a cult status amongst whisky fans. The Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12 is bottled at 58.2% ABV and is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour. It is available through selected specialist whisky retailers worldwide. A bottle will cost £75.

The Glendronach distillery was founded in 1826 by James Allardice and is located in rural Aberdeenshire, close to the town of Huntly. The majority of the present buildings date from 1850 when the distillery was rebuilt following a devastating fire. It was the last in Scotland to use stills directly fired by coal - this practice only finished in 2005. The distillery is known for its use of high quality ex-sherry casks and is currently owned by Brown-Forman, who took control in 2016. The annual production has recently increased to around two million litres.

"The Glendronach Cask Strength series offers a deep insight into the distillery’s signature character, by bottling at the whisky’s natural cask strength, as was the custom before the turn of the 20th Century. Add a drop or two of water to Batch 12 to open up the liquid and reveal a cornucopia of flavours."
Dr. Rachel Barrie.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep amber and the nose is rich and expressive. Aromas of dark dried fruits (think of raisins and prunes especially), mocha and crème brûlée are to the fore and are supported by further aromas of orange oil, toasted hazelnut and caramelised peach. There are also hints of sandalwood, dusty spices and chocolate coated cherry.

On the palate this whisky feels rich, sweet and indulgent. It is exceptionally well balanced given the high ABV. Juicy dried fruits lead the way with plump raisins and brandy-soaked prunes to the fore. There are also notes of bitter orange peel and maraschino cherry - the orange evolves to be more marmalade-like, while the cherry becomes the chocolate coated cherry from the nose with time.

There is incredible depth to the whisky. Further notes of burnt caramel and a hint of black treacle wrap around the fruity elements and are supported by more savoury characteristics. Dusty and earthy spices add warmth (imagine cinnamon, ginger and szechuan pepper) while sandalwood and chamoix leather give complexity. There are late hints of toasted almond and walnut, coffee grounds and clove.

The finish is long, rich and warming. The dried fruit and citrus notes linger deep into the finish and work well with the more savoury and spicy notes. The black treacle and blowtorched crème brûlée really come through towards the end, as does soem fiery pepper and ginger powder.

What's the verdict?

This Glendronach Cask Strength Batch 12 is a sumptuous and decadent whisky, and one of the best in the series for a while. As mentioned, the series has a cult following with people constantly comparing releases or discussing if the Billy Walker bottlings are better than Rachel Barrie's. To us, one is not better than the other. But they both have different approaches.

Walker went down the heavier 'sherry bomb' route, which some people preferred, while Barrie seems to be showing the subtlety and nuance in what an ex-sherry cask can do. The recent whiskies may not be as big and bold as in the past but now have more depth and elegance, which this Batch 12 has in abundance and that we prefer.

Review / Oban Young Teddy

This whisky is a distillery exclusive bottling from the west Highland distillery of Oban. Oban Young Teddy is the second whisky in The Macleans Series, which honours the distilling legacy of the Maclean family and their long association with the Oban distillery. It follows Old Teddy, which was released in 2019 - this was dedicated to Old Teddy Maclean, their long-serving distillery manager who began working there in 1953. To read our review of Oban Old Teddy - click here. The new whisky is dedicated to his son, recently-retired Young Teddy Maclean, who joined in 1985. The legacy continues as Young Teddy's son, Derek Maclean, joined the distillery staff in 2017.

The Oban distillery is located on the west coast of Scotland in the town Oban. Oban translates as 'little bay' from Gaelic and the town has grown up around the distillery. The Oban distillery was founded in 1794 by Hugh and John Stevenson in the buildings of a former brewery. It is owned by Diageo and the 14 years old expression forms part of their Classic Malts series. Oban is one of the smallest distilleries in their Scotch portfolio with an annual production capacity of just 870,000 litres.

Oban Young Teddy is finished in ex-Oloroso and ex-Palo Cortado sherry casks and is bottled at 50.8% ABV. There are just 4,542 bottles and these will be exclusively available from the visitor centre shop at the distillery in Oban until sold out. A bottle will cost £195.

"This bottling is incredibly special to me and my family as we continue to build the Maclean’s legacy at the Oban distillery for generations to come. The result is this truly special whisky with rich, fruity flavours coming through. This is a gift to our distillery fans and visitors from our family to theirs."
Young Teddy Maclean.

Our tasting notes

The colour is vibrant gold and the nose is sweet, bright and uplifting. Aromas of fresh green apple and toffee lead the way and are supported by sultana, hazelnut and something delicately floral. This is most reminiscent of citrus blossom. Underneath are further aromas of milk chocolate, salted caramel and a hint of walnut.

On the palate this whisky is equally as bright as the nose suggests. Initial notes of honey and toffee give way to a distinct fruitiness and sweetness. There is also a pleasant ginger and pepper-like warmth due to the strength. Green apple is again evident but feels more stewed and cooked now. The combination of these elements makes us think of caramelised apple or apple crumble.

Underneath is a robust maltiness, which becomes more biscuity and cereal-like with time. The ginger note grows too and evolves into gingerbread. The nuttiness develops well also and has elements of hazelnut praline, hazelnut and toasted almond. In the background are hints of salty brine and custard powder, plus the faintest whiff of peat smoke. A final pinch of white pepper and cinnamon round things off nicely.

The finish is of decent length and is warming and vibrant. The sweeter characteristics slowly fade to reveal the biscuity malt and peppery gingery spices. These linger well to drag out the length. A hint of salt adds to the freshness and accentuates everything.

What's the verdict?

The Oban Young Teddy is delicious, vibrant and lively. The finish in the ex-sherry casks, particularly the ex-Palo Cortado, has elevated this whisky superbly. These have added a lovely nuttiness that works well with the other characteristics on display.

We much prefer it to the Old Teddy, which we tried some years ago. The price is a little heavy, especially given that there is no indication of age, but if you are visiting the distillery then we suggest sampling it if possible and then making up your own mind.

Review / Glenmorangie Amontillado Cask Finish 12 years old

This new whisky is the fourth bottling in the Barrel Select Release series from the north Highland distillery of Glenmorangie. The Glenmorangie Amontillado Cask Finish 12 years old is exclusive to Australia and the UK and has been crafted by Dr. Bill Lumsden, the Director of Whisky Creation at Glenmorangie. Initial maturation was in ex-bourbon barrels for eight years before being transferred to ex-Amontillado sherry casks sourced by Lumsden for a further four years. It has been bottled at 46% ABV and is non chill-filtered. The Glenmorangie Amontillado Cask Finish 12 years old is exclusive to The Whisky Club Australia and the visitor centre shop in Tain. It can also be purchased via glenmorangie.com. A bottle will cost £75/ $AU135.

Glenmorangie is one of the biggest selling single malt Scotch whisky brands in the world and was founded in 1843 by William Matheson. It is located in the north Highland town of Tain. The distillery was originally named Morangie and became Glenmorangie in 1887. It has an annual production capacity of six million litres. The stills are the tallest in Scotland standing at over five metres (16.5 feet). It also uses the hardest water of any Scotch whisky distillery in production, which comes from the nearby Tarlogie Springs. The distillery and brand are currently owned by Moet Hennessey.

"I have always been a fan of and loved the nuttier, spicier tastes of Amontillado – my favourite style of sherry. It is such a delight to bring its cask influences to our whisky’s signature delicate style for this special release."
Dr. Bill Lumsden.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep gold and the nose is highly fragrant and expressive. Sweet aromas of golden syrup, sultana and ripe peach kick things off and are quickly joined a distinct nutty quality - think of hazelnut and walnut in particular - plus something floral. There is also a ginger-like spicy aroma lingering in the background.

On the palate this whisky has a lovely silky and sweet quality. Delicate honeyed notes join with those of vanilla custard to begin with. Then come some heavier notes - imagine the golden syrup from the nose, plus some hazelnut praline and a hint of orange oil. There is plenty of fruit too, especially canned tropical fruit and peaches, plus dried fruits such as juicy sultana and candied orange. The mix is delicious.

The early praline note then develops and takes the whisky in a drier and more nutty direction. Toasted hazelnuts and walnuts lead the way and are joined by hints of almond oil and cocoa bean. There is a growing spiciness also - think of gingerbread first and foremost, followed by clove and cinnamon. Some late savoury notes add further depth and complexity in the form of chamoix leather and old cigar box.

The finish is long and enjoyable. It gets drier, oakier and spicier with time and ends with a delicious mouthwatering quality. The combination between these notes and the sweeter fruitier ones is fabulous. The honey, expressive fruit and vanilla fades to leave the warming gingerbread and some toasted oak to linger.

What's the verdict?

This is a lovely whisky from Glenmorangie. Ex-Amontillado sherry casks are not commonly used to mature Scotch whisky, but this is a bottling that makes you wonder why. The sympathetic casking has married with and complimented Glenmorangie's light and fruity spirit superbly.

The nuttiness and spiciness elevates the whisky to a new level and makes this an early contender to be in our Top 10 whiskies of the year. If you are in Australia or the UK, then you should grab it while you can. We will be.

The Glenrothes Reveals 42-year-old Whisky

Highland-based The Glenrothes has released a 42-year-old limited edition whisky called, appropriately enough – The 42 whisky. The Glenrothes 42 has been matured in a combination of four hand-selected casks from The Glenrothes Estate, bottled at 43% alcohol by volume [86 proof] and is said to offer notes of almond, apricot, coriander, orange and vanilla. […]

Highland-based The Glenrothes has released a 42-year-old limited edition whisky called, appropriately enough – The 42 whisky.

The Glenrothes 42 has been matured in a combination of four hand-selected casks from The Glenrothes Estate, bottled at 43% alcohol by volume [86 proof] and is said to offer notes of almond, apricot, coriander, orange and vanilla.

Only 1,134 bottles of The Glenrothes 42 are being made available for $8,150 per 700ml bottle beginning on March 15, 2023 in the UK.

Distillery Visit / Dalmore

The Dalmore distillery and its range of single malts are held in high regard by whisky drinkers and collectors alike. Sitting in a gorgeous location on the shores of the Cromarty Firth and looking across to the Black Isle, this north Highland distiller…

The reason - a combination of the recent Covid pandemic and forthcoming planned extension work that will see the production capacity doubled. We were delighted to receive an invite to visit last November.

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Dalmore was founded in 1839 by Alexander Matheson and is located in the small Highland town of Alness, which is around 35 minutes drive north of Inverness. The name translates from the local Gaelic as 'big meadow' and the water used in production is taken from the nearby Loch Morie. This flows the 10 miles from the loch to the distillery via the River Averon.

However, maybe the most significant date in Dalmore's history came in 1867. This saw Andrew and Charles Mackenzie begin work at the distillery. The brothers would eventually become sole owners in 1891. With them they brought their family emblem - the 12-point stag. This has become synonymous with Dalmore and stems from a story dating back to 1263. Then the Chief of the Clan Mackenzie, Colin of Kintail, saved King Alexander III from a marauding stag. The King was indebted to the Chief and awarded the Mackenzie family the symbol of the beast.

A copy of a painting showing Colin of Kintail saving King Alexander III is on display in the visitor centre.

Other historical interest centres around the First World War when the Royal Navy commissioned Dalmore for the manufacture of explosives. Its remote location and close proximity to the Cromarty Firth, the deepest sea loch in the UK, made it a perfect spot. Dalmore is currently owned by Whyte & Mackay, part of the larger Phillipines-based Emperador Inc. They own the Whyte & Mackay blended whisky brand, plus the single malt distilleries of Fettercairn, Jura and Tamnavulin.

The day of our mid-November visit to Dalmore was what the locals describe as driech - think of a mix of dreary and bleak. As we set off on the distillery tour under a heavy grey sky, the wind and rain were being channeled straight down the Cromarty Firth at us. We were definitely glad of our warm clothing, that was for sure.

A driech day on the Firth.

Dalmore's building look very traditional from the outside with many dating back from the late-Victorian era. Most will thankfully remain after the site has been renovated and expanded over the next couple of years. First stop is the old red Porteus mill, which has been in situ for 75 years but will shortly be retired. These mills are so sturdy and rarely break down - this was to the detriment of Porteus, who actually went bust due to the longevity and reliability of their products.

Porteus mills - they never break down.

Up a short flight of metal stairs is the mash tun. This is large and made of stainless steel, and sits in a room that looks like it was built to house two of them. Each mash, of which there are currently 23 per week, uses 10.4 tonnes of milled malted barley. This is all sourced within a 50-mile radius of the distillery, especially from the nearby Black Isle, and is malted at Bairds Maltings in Arbroath. Three temperatures of water are added for maximum sugar extraction, with the first being at 63.5°C - the golden number for enzyme activation. The final water goes in at 85°C and each mash takes five hours.

The mash tun and underback.

Each batch of wort from the mash tun is sent ot one of eight wooden washbacks. These are made of Oregon pine and have a capacity of 48,000 litres. Once the creamed yeast is added, Dalmore ferment the liquid for 50 hours. The result is a wash that sits at around 8% ABV and resembles (and tastes like) a strong weissbier. Unusually, there are no switch blades connected to the washbacks. This device spins around to cut through and knock down the foam created by the fermentation process and is found at most distilleries.

The wooden washbacks.

The short trip brings you into the still house in an unusual way - you walk in directly over four of the stills giving a unique bird's eye view. This is even more unique given the design of Dalmore's stills. They have copper water jackets surrounding the neck of the stills. These are filled with water and have coiled tubing immersed in it. This design increases reflux and copper contact within each still by around 20%. This system is incorporated on each of the four spirit stills.

Water jackets on the spirit stills (back left and front right).

The pair of original stills were installed when the distillery was founded in 1839. They were joined by two exact copies in the late Victorian era and by four further stills in the 1960s. These are twice the size of the originals and take longer to produce the final spirits run - 8-9 hours versus 4-5 hours for the small stills. Each still has an unusual horizontal tube condenser, which acts in a similar way to a traditional wormtub. We have not seen this before. The combination of the water jackets and horizontal condensers contribute to Dalmore's robust and fruity character.

One of the horizontal condensors

It is at this point that our tour takes a different direction to the regular distillery tour. Our group was taken to one of the warehouses - Warehouse No.4 to be exact - and were joined by Richard Paterson OBE, the legendary Master Blender and figurehead of Dalmore, and Gregg Glass, Master Whisky Maker for owners Whyte & Mackay. This was a real treat. The warehouse is located right next to the sea and the coastal environment and dampness works its way into the pores of the wooden casks.

Gregg Glass and Richard Paterson OBE.

Richard explained to us that November was a particularly good time to assess casks in the Dalmore warehouses. The climate and humidity is perfect for analysing the maturing liquid. After this time the warehouse becomes too cold in the wintery conditions and they cannot get the same sensory performance.

The warehouse is filled with traditional styles and sizes of cask, as are all of Dalmore's warehouse. These are predominantly ex-bourbon or ex-sherry casks made of American oak and ranging from hogshead to butt in size. All Dalmore spirit starts life in ex-bourbon for an average of 5-6 years before being transferred to a different type of cask. All whisky destined to be bottled as Dalmore are matured at Dalmore or at Invergordon single grain distillery, which is located a short distance up the coast.

A sample straight from a Matusalem sherry cask.

We were also taken to Warehouses Nos. 2 and 3. These also sit right on the shores of the Cromarty Firth. Richard and Gregg treated the group to some samples from differing casks with highlights being sips of whisky matured in ex-Port, vintage sherry and Matusalem sherry. The latter is the result of a relationship with famous sherry bodega Gonzalez Byass in Jerez, Spain. This has spanned over a century and sees Gonzalez Byass send Dalmore some of their oldest, rarest and finest casks. The drams certainly warmed us up on a freezing cold day.

Our final treat was a tasting of the two new Vintage 2022 Editions in the original Mackenzie Brothers office within the distillery. These were released shortly after our visit. Both are limited editions and used casks hand selected from the warehouses by Richard and Gregg during November 2021. To read our full review with tasting notes of the Dalmore 2003 Vintage and Dalmore 2007 Vintage - click here.

The Dalmore 2003 Vintage and 2007 Vintage.

Visitor Information

Dalmore is currently closed to visitors due to planned renovation and expansion work. It is not due to open for tours until 2025.

Review / Glenmorangie A Tale of the Forest

This new whisky is the third release in the north Highland distillery of Glenmorangie’s annual Tales series. A Tale of the Forest follows A Tale of Cake from 2020 and A Tale of Winter from 2021. This year’s edition takes inspiration from Dr. Bill Lumde…

This new whisky is the third release in the north Highland distillery of Glenmorangie's annual Tales series. A Tale of the Forest follows A Tale of Cake from 2020 and A Tale of Winter from 2021. This year's edition takes inspiration from Dr. Bill Lumden's walks through the woodland close to his home. Glenmorangie's Director of Whisky Creation has evoke the sights, sounds and smell of the forest by using a small batch of barley kilned with woodland botanicals. This traditional practice from yesteryear sees barley dried with small quantities of peat, juniper, pine, heather, rowan berries and birch bark. The whisky has been matured in a combination of first-fill and re-fill ex-bourbon casks. The packaging has been designed by illustrator Pomme Chan.

Glenmorangie is one of the biggest selling single malt Scotch whisky brands in the world and was founded in 1843 by William Matheson. It is located in the north Highland town of Tain. The distillery was originally named Morangie. It became Glenmorangie in 1887. It has an annual production capacity of six million litres. The stills are the tallest in Scotland standing at over five metres (16.5 feet). It also uses the hardest water of any Scotch whisky distillery in production, which comes from the nearby Tarlogie Springs. The distillery and brand are currently owned by Moet Hennessey.

"About 15 years ago I began experimenting with elements of primary spirit production. This included kilning and the study of historically how barley used to be dried. Other combustables, not just peat, were often used. Then around 12 years ago we produced one weeks worth of spirit in this style - that is now A Tale of the Forest."
Dr. Bill Lumsden speaking at the launch event in London / October 12, 2022.

A Tale of the Forest is bottled at 46% ABV and is initially available for an exclusive period from London department store Selfridge's. Wider distribution throughout the UK, Europe and world markets will then follow. A bottle will cost £89. The launch is supported by A Tale of the Forest takeover of The Green Bar in London's Cafe Royal until December. Special cocktails have been created by forager and mixologist Emil Åreng for this.

Our tasting notes

The colour is bright gold and the nose is sweet with a gentle and subtle smokiness. Aromas of vanilla and heather honey compliment the soft peat smoke and this is joined by aromatic wood smoke and something green and resinous. Hints of bitter orange, leather and aniseed sit in the background. Overall, this is very enticing but quite different from most Glenmorangie's that we have sampled.

On the palate this whisky is soft, smoky and rich. The heather honey note from the nose hits first along with some malty biscuit, vanilla and a hint of milk chocolate. The peat and botanical smoke is never far away though and wraps around everything. This is sweet and gentle in character with a distinct earthiness. The savoury nature is enhanced by hints of resinous pine oils and zingy juniper, which gives a multi-layered feel to the smoke. Something barky, presumably from the birch, also comes through and sits alongside an increasing spicy and peppery characteristic.

There are plenty of subtle secondary notes too - think of aromatic burnt lemon and orange zest, menthol, eucalyptus and delicate wood spices. A hint of aniseed, damp earth, moss and old leather round things off superbly.

The finish is long and warming with the smokiness fading last. This smoke takes on a vegetal, resinous and slightly more bitter edge as the sweeter honeyed notes slowly drift away. This gives a mouthwatering and drying edge with a prickly and peppery heat.

What's the verdict?

The Tales series may only be three whiskies old, but it is quickly gaining a reputation for being one to look out for around this time each year. It is bold for a big brand like Glenmorangie to release such experimental whiskies and A Tale of the Forest takes that theory one stage further.

To revisit the old tradition of burning other things with peat is interesting and not something we can recall another Scotch brand doing. We have seen it with a couple of new world distilleries, Mackmyra and Stauning from Sweden and Denmark respectively, but not from Scotland.

A Tale of the Forest is delicious yet unlike any Glenmorangie that we can remember sampling in the past. Dr. Bill and his experimental approach are to be applauded. We cannot wait to see what the next bottling in the series brings. Sadly, we will have to wait a year to find out.

Diageo Unveils 2022 Eight Elusive Expressions

Spirits industry giant Diageo has released the 2022 version of their Elusive Expressions Special Releases whisky collection – comprised of eight aged whiskies hand selected by master blender Dr. Craig Wilson. The 2022 Elusive Expression Special Releases are: Mortlach (Speyside, 57.8% alcohol by volume – 115.6 proof – $270 per bottle) Talisker 11-Year-Old (Isle of […]

The 2022 Elusive Expression Special Releases are:

Mortlach (Speyside, 57.8% alcohol by volume – 115.6 proof – $270 per bottle)

Talisker 11-Year-Old (Isle of Skye, 55.1% alcohol by volume – 110.2 proof – $120 per bottle)

Lagavulin 12-Year-Old (Islay, 57.3% alcohol by volume – 114.6 proof – $145 per bottle)

The Singleton of Glen Ord 15-Year-Old (Highlands, 57.3% alcohol by volume – 114.6 proof – $130 per bottle)

Cardhu 16-Year-Old (Speyside, 58% alcohol by volume – 116 proof – $175 per bottle)

Obhan 10-Year-Old (Highlands, 57.1% alcohol by volume – 114.2 proof – $115 per bottle)

Cameronbridge 26-Year-Old (Lowland, 56.2% alcohol by volume – 112.4 proof – $300 per bottle)

Clynelish 12-Year-Old (Highlands, 58.5% alcohol by volume – 117 proof – $190 per bottle)

The Singleton of Glen Ord bottling was aged in refill American and European oak casks, then double-matured in wine-seasoned casks, while the Clynelish was matured in refill American oak and then finished in PX/Oloroso sherry-seasoned casks.

The 2022 Elusive Expressions Special Releases collection is being made available beginning in October 2022.