Canadian Club 43 Year Old Chronicles The Speakeasy – Review of the Canadian Whisky Awards Winner for 2021

The winner of the 2021 Canadian Whisky Awards happens to be the oldest
Canadian whisky (likely) ever sold. Aged for 43 years, Canadian Club is a
twist on age statements and themes.

Disclaimer: I was one of nine judges on the panel for the Canadian Whisky Awards. All tasting was done blind.

The winner of the 2021 Canadian Whisky Awards happens to be the oldest Canadian whisky (likely) ever sold. Aged for 43 years, Canadian Club is a twist on age statements and themes. 

The name Speakeasy is a tribute to the illicit past of Hiram-Walker distillery during US prohibition. As the well-known story goes, Al Capone smuggled Canadian whisky across the border so it might be served in underground illegal clubs, known as speakeasies, to avoid authorities. 

This story, though, isn't really about Canada vs the United States. Hiram-Walker was an American that built the distillery across the US border before the formation of Canada. Today that area is known as Windsor, a city across the Detroit river. The distillery produced The Club.

Even before prohibition, though, The Club was popular among bars in the United States. So-much-so that American distilleries forced regulators to print the country of origin on Canadian whisky that was imported in. The Club turned to Canadian Club, and continued to be a best-selling whisky in the US. 

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen an old whisky come out under the Canadian Club branding. However, this is definitely the most Canadian Club like variation of the releases. Like the previous releases in The Chronicles series (41 and 42), this is a celebration of the blending in Canadian whisky. 

Note for potential buyers: As far as I know, this whisky is largely distributed through the LCBO (Ontario liquor stores) and available online here at the time of this writing. 

What’s a 43 year old Canadian whisky taste like? 

Canadian Club 43 Year Old Chronicles “The Speakeasy”
Hiram-Walker Distillery 
Category: Canadian Whisky, Blend
Score: 93.5

Nose: Plenty of candied orange notes, rich, warm, and welcoming. That candied orange is sweetened with honeycomb. There's a spicy peppery ring to the nosing, one that has that “old barrel” smell. Gentle, but present, and brings in herbal notes like black tea, licorice, and old well-worn leather. There’s age on the nose, but just a hint. Whereas previous CC were all lemon moraine note, this is all orange. There’s a beautiful intensity to the nose. It’s unmistakably unique. 

Palate: Youth rye spice, orange peel pithiness right up there in the palate for you to bite into, black pepper spice, touches of white sugar, and a real deep spicy, buttery, licorice finish. The honey sweetness is rich and nicely balanced with peppery rye and rich herbal notes. By comparison to other whiskies in this age group, this is far gentler, but with that gentleness you get a wider breath of flavour. It’s ridiculously satisfying.

Conclusion: As with the others of the Canadian Club releases, this is a delicious and delicate whisky that draws on a ton of flavour. It’s reminiscent of old scotches, but there’s a youth to it this pour. There’s a familiar note to it, that zesty rye Canadian Club goodness, but it’s so much more than that. Where the other Chronicles are sometimes different; delicious but unfamiliar. This is quietly familiar, a relative to Canadian Club not just in maker, label, and history... but also in taste.

Disclaimer: Canadian Club provided me a sample of this whisky. It had no baring on my review. 

A few more bastards and blends

Chivas Regal 18 yo (40%, OB, blended Scotch, +/-2020) – MacNair’s 12 ‘Lum Reek’ (46%, OB, Glenallachie Distillers, blended malt, 2020) – Peat Bourbon Barrel (60.5%, Elixir Distillers, Elements of Islay, Canada exclusive, 2020) – Scarabus 10 yo (46%, H…

Chivas Regal 18 yo (40%, OB, blended Scotch, +/-2020) - MacNair's 12 'Lum Reek' (46%, OB, Glenallachie Distillers, blended malt, 2020) - Peat Bourbon Barrel (60.5%, Elixir Distillers, Elements of Islay, Canada exclusive, 2020) - Scarabus 10 yo (46%, Hunter Laing, +/-2020) - Vital Spark 12 yo 'Batch 002' (50.2%, Meadowside Blending, 1280 bottles, +/-2020)

A trio of Glencadam

Glencadam 13 yo 2007/2020 (40%, OB, Whisky Journey Singapore, 1st fill bourbon, cask #27, 368 bottles) – Glencadam 9 yo 2011/2020 (63.9%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Elixir Distillers, barrel, cask #800015, 249 bottles) – Glencadam 9 yo 2011/2020 (64…

Glencadam 13 yo 2007/2020 (40%, OB, Whisky Journey Singapore, 1st fill bourbon, cask #27, 368 bottles) - Glencadam 9 yo 2011/2020 (63.9%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Elixir Distillers, barrel, cask #800015, 249 bottles) - Glencadam 9 yo 2011/2020 (64.6%, Signatory Vintage, for Kirsch Import, bourbon barrel, cask #800144, 178 bottles)

Virtual Tastings – March 2021

March rapidly approaches, and with it a pair of excellent virtual tastings – a deep dive into the world of fortified wine with our tame MW, and some very sought-after whiskies from the Macallan… March’s…

Originally published on The Whisky Exchange Blog – Virtual Tastings – March 2021

March rapidly approaches, and with it a pair of excellent virtual tastings – a deep dive into the world of fortified wine with our tame MW, and some very sought-after whiskies from the Macallan…

March’s Line-up

Fortified wine

10 March 2021 2021, 7-8.30pm – Discover Fortified Wine with Dawn Davies MW: We love fortified wine at The Whisky Exchange, but always get a lot of questions about the different types and styles. In this tasting Master of Wine and head buyer Dawn Davies will dive into the category with a pair each of  Ports, sherries and Madeiras.
Buy the tasting pack >

new-irish-whiskey

17 March 2021, 7-8.30pm – New Irish Distilleries with Billy Abbott: Ireland’s whiskey business is booming, going from just three distilleries in the country at the turn of the millennium to more than 50 either up and running or in development. I’ll be digging into three of the best-known of the new wave and tasting some of their whiskies: Waterford Organic Gaia 1.1 and Sheestown 1.2, Drumshanbo Pot Still, and Teeling Single Pot Still and Blackpitts Peated Single Malt.
Buy the tasting pack >

Macallan Editions

31 March 2021 2021, 7-8.30pm The Macallan Edition Series with David Sinclair: I’ll be joining Macallan brand ambassador David Sinclair for a taste through one of the distillery’s most sought-after recent ranges: The Editions. Each release digs into a different aspect of whisky making, showing off what the Macallan team can do. All six have flown off the shelves and this is a rare chance to try them all.
Buy the tasting pack >

What’s next?

It’s all go on the events front, with recent announcements giving us hope that we should be able to start running in-person tastings again sometime soon. In the meantime, we’re still putting together plans for April and beyond.

This week also sees Whisky Show: Old & Rare landing on Facebook. All of the tasting packs have now sold out, apart from the last couple for the Longmorn tasting, but even without the whiskies you can still watch the classes for free on Facebook. You can find the schedule on the Virtual Whisky Show website.

Originally published on The Whisky Exchange Blog – Virtual Tastings – March 2021

Some more Glenrothes

Glenrothes 31 yo 1989/2020 (44.4%, The Whisky Agency, hogshead, 268 bottles) – Glenrothes 21 yo 1997/2019 (43%, Signatory Vintage, cask #6369) – Glenrothes-Glenlivet 23 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon and sherry, 2020) – Glenrothes 29 …

Glenrothes 31 yo 1989/2020 (44.4%, The Whisky Agency, hogshead, 268 bottles) - Glenrothes 21 yo 1997/2019 (43%, Signatory Vintage, cask #6369) - Glenrothes-Glenlivet 23 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon and sherry, 2020) - Glenrothes 29 yo 1990/2020 (48.8%, Or Sileis, 'The Emperor', hogshead, cask #17999, 242 bottles) - Glenrothes 9 yo 2009/2019 (54.6%, Duncan Taylor, Dimensions, cask #4923204, 293 bottles) - Glenrothes 13 yo 2006/2020 (61.8%, Signatory Vintage for Whic, 1st fill butt, cask #9683, 329 bottles) - Glenrothes 12 yo 2006/2019 (57%, The Whisky Baron, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #6147)

The Four Roses 2018 130th Anniversary Small Batch review

Company: Four RosesVol: 54.2%Age: Between 10 – 16 yearsClassification: Kentucky Straight Bourbon WhiskeyBreakdown: Blend of four bourbons with two mashbills (OBSV and OBSF – 60% corn, 35% rye, and 5% malted barley / OESV and OESK – 75% corn, 20% rye, a…

Company: Four Roses
Vol: 54.2%
Age: Between 10 – 16 years
Classification: Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Breakdown: Blend of four bourbons with two mashbills (OBSV and OBSF - 60% corn, 35% rye, and 5% malted barley / OESV and OESK - 75% corn, 20% rye, and 5% malted barley)
Price: c. £150

History

According to our sums, the 2018 Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch is the 12th iteration of their limited edition small batch offerings. It also coincides and celebrates the 130th Anniversary of the Four Roses brand. This annual September release (occasionally there are two each year) also ties in with Bourbon Heritage month which celebrates the unique history of the spirit.

This series was first introduced in 2008 and was then known as the Four Roses Mariage Collection. Yes, we thought it was a spelling mistake but it’s French for marriage, of course! We assume it’s a reference to the art of blending or could even be a nod to the founders Paul Jones Jr story of how he proposed to a Southern Belle.

There were just over 13,000 hand numbered bottles available on release and we were lucky enough to be able to grab one. Brent Elliott (personal friend of the Gents), Master Distiller of Four Roses, said he wanted to create something very special to celebrate the 130th Anniversary. He said that he focused on building around the unique fruit flavours in their F and V yeast strains and wanted to include a spicy older batch. Four different bourbons with two mashbills were used to achieve this, each with differing ages. The breakdown of the two mashbills can be seen in our notes above and the ages are as follows – OBSV, 10 OBSF, 13 OESV, 14 and the old timer OESK comes in at 16 years of age. For a really straightforward explanation of the Four Roses mashbills and what they bring to the bourbon we might as well point you to the source Four Roses recipes

The Review:

For this review we drank it neat in a Glencairn glass.

Nose

What we got – Caramel, dark fruits, mainly blackberries, dark chocolate, orange peel (Mav), cashew nuts. Superbly complex and with each visit to the nose, you seem to be able to pick out another note

What they say we should get – Warm aromas of rich vanilla, mingled with raspberries, crème brûlée and ripe berries

Palate

What we got – Spice, butterscotch, cinnamon, baking powder, pepper and oak

What they say we should get – Bright apricot flavours greet the palate, then give way to hints of mint, cinnamon, apple and mellow oak

Finish

What we got – Long and lingering with a warming heat. Typical Four Roses

What they say we should get – Very long, with notes of cinnamon, more fruit and vanilla

Summary

There are not any particularly bad reviews of this 2018 limited edition, and we are not going to break the mould and declare anything too controversial. This is a damn fine whiskey, but it certainly took us longer than usual to feel the love for it. It just didn’t hit the mark on our initial introduction and we had to come back to it several months later and start again. That is not our normal way of reviewing whiskey but there are multiple reasons why this could have happened. We probably made the mistake on the first review attempt by including a few too many other bourbons of different styles and strengths and trying to write up tasting notes for too many types of bourbon at the same time. You can also get caught up the hype and anticipation of your first taste after catching up with the press release and other bourbon reviewers tasting experiences and it can sometimes be just a little underwhelming in the first instance.

When this was first made available in the UK you could purchase it for around about the £125 mark (we paid approximately 20% more about a year later). Is it 4 or 5 times better whiskey than Four Roses Single Barrel? Most definitely not! We know it never quite works out as simple as that comparison but it does make you think. If you’re happy with spending £40 on a bourbon and love every last drop of it then great. If you want to experience the master blending skills of Mr Elliott and see the magic he can create with the Four Roses 10 distinct bourbon recipes then you will just have to shut up and pay up.

Will we buy another Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch… of course we bloody will, but maybe not every one.

7 out of 10 - Mav

7 out of 10 – Mr. Pie

Review Posted - February 2020

 

Bourbon FOMO. Is that shiny new bottle really worth it?

It’s almost inevitable that on your bourbon jou…

It’s almost inevitable that on your bourbon journey you will go through the “squirrel hoarding nuts” phase of bourbon. Now by that, I don’t mean that you are going to scurry rapidly after all the nut forward bourbon recipes like those from Beam or Dickel, but rather, you will enter that phase where you must have “one of everything” in your collection. Why does it happen, and why does it generally happen so soon into the bourbon journey for most?

Well, I think a lot of it depends on the reason many people get into bourbon in the first place - it certainly did factor into why it happened to me. Many of us get into bourbon because it represents excellent value compared to most other types of whiskey. Certainly back when I got into bourbon in a serious way, you could still find your Pappy and BTAC on the shelf and if you were keen, you would almost certainly be able to amass the full collection each year. It wasn’t because they weren’t good whiskies - it was simply because bourbon was an overlooked category of whiskey synonymous with “coke” and a brawl outside the bar at the end of the night. People weren’t looking for high-end bourbon and they certainly weren’t willing to pay what was then the princely sum of almost £100 for a bottle of it. This meant that those of us who knew how different high-quality bourbon was could pick it up for next to nothing. It wasn’t that long ago that you could buy Elijah Craig 12yo at M&S for £23 a bottle. It was (and still is) an accessible and affordable way to get into drinking some excellent distilled beverages.

However, with the boom in bourbon over the last few years, it meant that there was ever-increasing competition for bottles and this desire for bourbon meant that more and more producers were entering into the market launching new products every day. We all know that not everything makes it to the UK, but certainly, over the last few years, more new products have been hitting the shelves through the various importers. At the same time, the huge increase in premium bourbon buyers in the UK means that many new releases get snapped up almost instantly. This isn’t always because they are actually any good or highly sought after, it's sometimes simply because the importer is testing the market and only brings a small number of bottles in on the first run.

The problem this creates for the new bourbon aficionado is that it can be very hard to tell the difference between legitimately good new products and those that are just another release of that same sourced or contract distilled stuff as the last “new” label that came out - particularly when the copy on the main whiskey sellers online might just be a “cut and paste” of the marketing from the brand - meaning you don’t often learn all that much from the retailers’ websites. However, new bourbon drinkers can at least be grateful that the practices of 5 or 6 years ago where the stories behind most new brands - including some we know and love today - were to use a technical term “complete bullshit”. At least today there is much more transparency on the labels around things like sourcing.... but it's certainly not universal and there are still a lot of misleading websites and labels...which apparently is passed off as “marketing”.

However it's the combination of an ever-increasing number of premium bourbon drinkers, a limited supply and a lack of good information on new bottles, that leads to what the kids call

“FOMO” or fear of missing out for us older people. Believe me, it's a very real thing that can often cause buying decisions that aren’t based in logic or level-headedness. I certainly succumbed to it early in my whiskey career. It basically occurs when a new release appears on the websites and you saw the number of people “looking” at the website and you remember how quickly the last release became “sold out” and you don’t want to miss out on what could be (and certainly as marketed like) it's the “next Pappy”. So you add it to your basket and you buy it because you are sure you will get around to drinking it one day...and if not...at least you got in on the ground floor of “the next big thing”.

Except, you didn’t - you just bought another bottle from another new producer that may or may not have been sourced and probably cost you two to three times as much as a well-aged bottle from Buffalo Trace or Four Roses. The reality is that most shiny new things stay shiny until the next new thing comes along and in the bourbon world, that’s about two to three weeks. Just take a look at the bourbon release calendar on Breaking Bourbon - every year there is literally a huge number of new releases of both regular and limited edition products. You simply cannot buy them all and if you don’t buy one...so what? What did you actually miss out on? The reality is within a few weeks, a few months, or the worst case, a year, the next new release will be out.

So my advice, and believe me it comes after spending a lot of money on shiny new whiskies because of FOMO, is to stop buying new things and just to buy good things. If you really have to buy that new thing, if you just can’t face the thought of missing out, consider going in with two or three people into a bottle split rather than buying the whole bottle. The reality is that most of the time, that shiny new bottle you brought won’t bring you as much drinking satisfaction as the bottles you know and love. It may well bring you cache on BBS when you are the first to post the picture of the bottle and some tasting notes or the secret pleasure of having it “in the bunker” (for those that buy but don’t open). But stop and think for a second how many of these bottles are in your bunker or open on your shelf that are not getting drunk at the same rate as the bottles you actually buy multiples of?

So what do I do now? Well, whenever I see a new bottle posted on a website (or indeed BBS), the first thing I do is start googling - I want to learn about the bottle and more importantly the liquid inside. Is it distilled by the producer or is it sourced or contract distilled? If the latter, is it from a producer that I actually enjoy and is it priced in accordance with other products sourced from the same place. If it's distilled by the producer, how old is it? How was it aged? Did they use small barrels to “speed up” the oak-flavour? All of these things are worth looking into and it’s only once I am satisfied that I would actually enjoy drinking the whiskey that the “FOMO” will kick in.

Looking at this another way, I have stopped getting “FOMO” because:

  •  I don’t have FOMO for whiskies that I know I wouldn’t enjoy drinking - I do my research before hitting “buy” and decide whether I actually think this might be a whiskey that I would enjoy based on an understanding of my own preferences;

  •  there will always be another shiny new whiskey released that will be just as good (if not better) than the whiskey that was just released; and

  • if you have more than one or two bottles in reserve that you actually want to drink, the chances of you needing and getting through that shiny new bottle before the next shiny new thing comes out is pretty low and this means you will have an ever-increasing bunker of whiskies that you may, or may not, actually want to drink.

So my advice is: don’t pull the trigger just because there is a new bottle of bourbon released - do your research and work out if it's right for you and spend your money wisely; and don’t worry about FOMO, buy good whiskey that you will enjoy drinking because you know you enjoy it - not because you want to have it or to show it off on BBS.

Words by Mark Latimour

Rosebank, new old and old young

Rosebank 30 yo 1989/2019 (55.2%, Hunter Laing, The First Editions, Author’s Series, refill hogshead, cask #HL17438, 192 bottles) – Rosebank 12 yo 1980/1992 (60.1%, Kingsbury, sherry butt, cask #2467)

Rosebank 30 yo 1989/2019 (55.2%, Hunter Laing, The First Editions, Author's Series, refill hogshead, cask #HL17438, 192 bottles) - Rosebank 12 yo 1980/1992 (60.1%, Kingsbury, sherry butt, cask #2467)

A bag of old grains

Fine Single Grain 43 yo 1976/2020 (45.7%, Whisky-Fassle, hogshead) – North British 30 yo 1989 (Dramfool, bourbon hogshead, 182 bottles) – Cambus 27 yo 1991/2019 (58%, Hotmalt Taiwan, Richard’s Choice, sherry, cask #61970, 205 bottles) – Port Dundas 31 …

Fine Single Grain 43 yo 1976/2020 (45.7%, Whisky-Fassle, hogshead) - North British 30 yo 1989 (Dramfool, bourbon hogshead, 182 bottles) - Cambus 27 yo 1991/2019 (58%, Hotmalt Taiwan, Richard's Choice, sherry, cask #61970, 205 bottles) - Port Dundas 31 yo 1988/2020 (51.3%, Cadenhead, bourbon hogshead) - Invergordon 45 yo 1974/2019 (46.9%, Single Cask Nation, bourbon barrel, cask # 7844000025, 194 bottles) - Girvan 30 yo 1989/2020 (51.8% The Whisky Exchange Whisky Show, Artificial Intelligence) - Invergordon 32 yo 1987/2020 (52.7%, Elixir Distillers, Whisky Trail, cask #88799)

Cognac’s turn again

Drouet et Fils ‘Reserve de Jean’ (40%, OB, Cognac, +/-2020) – Michel Forgeron 2008 ‘Folle Blanche’ (47%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2019) – Hermitage Chez Richon 2008 (45%, Cognac, Grande Champagne, +/-2020) – Hermitage 50 yo (44%, OB, cognac, Petite Cha…

Drouet et Fils 'Reserve de Jean' (40%, OB, Cognac, +/-2020) - Michel Forgeron 2008 'Folle Blanche' (47%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2019) - Hermitage Chez Richon 2008 (45%, Cognac, Grande Champagne, +/-2020) - Hermitage 50 yo (44%, OB, cognac, Petite Champagne, +/2015) - Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 62 La Corbeille de Fruits' (40.1%, Malternatives Belgium, 200 bottles, 2020)