10 Great Getaways for the Traveling Whisky Lover

Our picks of the best places for your next whisky-themed escape.

The post 10 Great Getaways for the Traveling Whisky Lover appeared first on Whisky Advocate.

A great vacation doesn’t have to be all about whisky, but a wee dram or artisanal cocktail along the way certainly enhances the experience. The best getaways for whisky lovers combine cozy lodging with fun activities, delicious food, warm hospitality, and of course an excellent selection of whiskies. Such great escapes can be found all over the country and around the world—you can squeeze in a bit of fun on a long weekend or fly across the Atlantic to sojourn in the British Isles. Whether you a choose trip focused on skiing, fishing, hiking, golfing, or just relaxation with cooking classes and spa treatments, fabulous whisky-fueled adventures await. We’ve chosen 10 of the best such getaway options.

golf course with lake and lodge on site

Sea Island Resort has not one, but two separate hotels, including The Lodge (pictured), where the main bar serves several hundred Old Fashioned cocktails a day.

Sea Island—Sea Island, Georgia

For nearly a century, Sea Island Resort has been one of America’s most venerable vacation venues. The resort features endless choices, with two separate hotels—The Lodge and The Cloister—as well as golf cottages and a wide variety of rental-home accommodations, an acclaimed spa, and over a dozen dining and drinking spots spread across this huge coastal property. 

Sea Island is a legendary golf destination, with a new state-of-the-art performance teaching center, grass putting course, and three 18-hole layouts that host the annual PGA Tour RSM Classic. But non-golfers will never feel excluded here. The place has five miles of pristine private beach, biking, boating, inshore and offshore fishing, falconry, a formidable tennis center with 16 clay courts, horseback riding, shooting sports, scenic and cocktail cruises, pools, and an array of watersports including kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, bodyboarding, kiteboarding, and numerous guided paddling tours. The schedule of daily events offers tours, excursions, and guided activities, while the beach club, spa, and fitness center are all world class. There is even bowling and an evening bagpiper! 

All of these activities can leave guests thirsty, which is probably why the main bar at The Lodge, the Oak Room, serves several hundred bourbon Old Fashioned cocktails each day, and offers numerous private label single cask pours including Woodford Reserve, Weller Single Barrel Reserve, and Buffalo Trace. This is the South, so bourbon is king, but the resort typically offers 60 to 70 whiskies, including rye, scotch, and Japanese labels. 

The Lodge also barrel-ages house cocktails, and the signature is an Old Fashioned served at the resort’s high-end steakhouse, Colt & Alison. Aged in a five-liter oak barrel to bring out more vanilla and spice notes, it is made using Resurgent rye from Atlanta’s ASW Distillery. 

Off-season hotel rates start around $650 per night per couple, $1,000 in prime summer. 

man stands on ladder in front of whisky shelves holding bottle

Bertie’s Whisky Bar at The Fife Arms offers over 350 whiskies from around the world.

The Fife Arms—Braemar, Scotland

Old meets new at this boutique property that opened three years ago in the Scottish village of Braemar, birthplace of the country’s famed Highland Games. The former coaching inn and hunting lodge is a local landmark built in 1856. Its owners are Iwan and Manuela Wirth, founders of the renowned international art gallery Hauser & Wirth, who oversaw a meticulous restoration, showcasing more than 14,000 historic objects and artifacts. The result is modern luxury with 19th-century Highlands flair, including plenty of tartan and museum-quality Scottish artwork. All 46 rooms at this escapist, romantic hotel are unique, and the gardens were designed by the same landscape architect used by Prince Charles. A vast slate of outdoor activities is on offer, including guided hiking, E-biking, and horseback riding. Try fly-fishing on the River Dee, one of the world’s most famous salmon spots, with sea and rainbow trout as well. A five-minute walk connects to the trails of stunning Cairngorms National Park, with hikes for all abilities. The welcoming 18-hole Braemar Golf Club is nearby, and other options include off-road 4×4 safaris via Range Rover, tours of Balmoral Castle (the royal residence in Scotland), and the nearby Royal Lochnagar Distillery.

But you don’t have to leave The Fife Arms to dive deep into Scotland’s most famous product. The hotel’s Bertie’s Whisky Bar features 365 labels from around the world, overseen by whisky ambassador Katy Fennema. She offers several themed four-dram flights, guided tastings, a food and whisky pairing workshop, and a combined contemporary architecture/fine whisky tour at Macallan Distillery’s new visitor center. The signature at Bertie’s is Fife Arms Braemar whisky, a proprietary blended malt from Adelphi Distillery created to commemorate the opening of Bertie’s in 2021. The whisky aims to imitate the style and flavor of those from the late Victorian and Edwardian eras when the hotel was built, mixing sherry-cask finished Highland malts with smokier variations from Ardnamurchan Distillery on Scotland’s remote west coast. 

Packages including one 3-course dinner and one 4-dram tasting per stay start at around $650 per night per couple.

sprawling lodge in front of alpine forest

At the open bar within the lodge at Steamboat Bay Fishing Club, top-shelf whiskies are always being poured.

Steamboat Bay Fishing Club—Noyes Island, Alaska

Alaska is the gold standard for salmon fishing and home to numerous angling lodges, and Steamboat Bay Fishing Club—situated on an island off the coast of Alaska about halfway between Seattle and Anchorage—is the finest. Steamboat Bay runs on the same all-inclusive model as the best African wildlife safari lodges, but instead of offering a private ranger and Land Cruiser, each room here comes with its own fishing guide and a 27-foot heated cabin cruiser equipped with a bathroom and tackle. This coastal spot on the edge of the Pacific offers exceptional fishing, especially for prized Chinook (King) and Coho (Silver) salmon, as well as halibut. Rates include on-site processing of all catch into steaks or filets, which are flash frozen and packed in custom freezer boxes to take home. 

Non-fishing activity options range from sea kayaking, whale watching, and nature walks to cigar smoking and hot tubbing. Seaplane transfers into this remote island lodge are included in rates, as are all gourmet meals and the top-shelf open bar. The list changes but always includes many bourbons, like Maker’s Mark, Knob Creek, and Woodford Reserve; scotch, including Macallan 12 year old, Lagavulin 16 year old, and Johnnie Walker Gold; as well as rye, Canadian, and Irish options. But the local favorite is Alaska’s own Port Chilkoot Boatwright bourbon, by itself or in local takes on the classic Old Fashioned or Manhattan. A special Drink of the Day often features it. One example is the Grapefruit Ginger Beer Bourbon, made with Boatwright bourbon, grapefruit juice, and ginger beer. There are just six rooms in the lodge and a single eight-bedroom residence. 

Steamboat Bay is open seasonally from June to August and rates for two, three, and four-day all-inclusive stays begin at about $2,600 per night per person.

lodge tucked among autumnal mountains

The Lodge at Blue Sky’s 3,500-acre property offers access to endless outdoor activities, a spa, cooking and art classes, and more. (Photo by High West Distillery)

The Lodge at Blue Sky—Wanship, Utah

Born in the Napa Valley, Auberge Resorts is famously associated with wine, but at this ranch-style property outside Park City, the focus is squarely on whiskey. That’s because The Lodge at Blue Sky, a 3,500-acre resort community, includes both the Auberge Lodge at Blue Sky and High West’s distillery just down the road. High West began with a tiny facility whose claim to fame is being the world’s first “ski-in gastro-distillery,” at the base of one of the runs at Park City Resort, the nation’s largest ski area. The newer location at Blue Sky is far larger and features organized tours and tastings, a full retail store with distillery-only limited editions, and a standout restaurant focused on locally sourced ingredients. 

While ownership is separate, The Lodge works closely with the distillery, and guests can be driven, bike, or make the 15-minute walk there. The Lodge has just 46 spacious rooms and suites, featuring deluxe bathrooms and outdoor living spaces. In keeping with the Auberge brand, The Lodge has a gourmet restaurant and high-end spa, The Edge, where one of the most popular treatments is the High West Whisky Rubdown—featuring a foot soak combining salts from Utah’s Great Salt Lake with High West whiskey, followed by a body massage, warm and cold moist towel compresses, a foot scrub, and scalp invigorator. 

The Lodge also has a wide variety of other activities, ranging from cooking classes, art classes, and fondue dinners in private mountaintop yurts to summer horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, and fly-fishing. In winter, there is skiing and snowboarding, and the hotel has its own private clubhouse at the mountain for changing and storage, with a full bar, gourmet snacks, and complimentary shuttles. Other nearby activities include cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and heli-skiing. On the property, there’s snowshoeing, year-round sporting clays, yoga, and more. The Lodge conducts its own tastings, and in addition to an extensive High West lineup carries other Utah whiskeys from Alpine Distillery and Clear Water Distillery, while the signature tasting is a side-by-side comparison of Kentucky Owl 10 year old bourbon and the brand’s rarer Confiscated expression. 

Off-season rates begin around $1,450 per night per couple, summer rates at $2,100.

hobbit-looking house with string lights and fire pit in front

One of two Maker’s Mark Hobbit Houses on The Preserve Sporting Club property.

The Preserve Sporting Club—Richmond, R.I.

A hidden gem of the Northeast, this 3,500-acre wonderland is a perfect weekend getaway, just half an hour from Providence, under 90 minutes from Boston, and less than three hours from New York City. It is also very dog friendly. Activities feature a top-rated 18-hole par-3 golf course, stocked fly-fishing ponds, miles of mountain biking and hiking trails, ziplining, canoeing, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, archery, tennis and equestrian centers, plus a wellness facility with a gym and daily yoga classes, several bars and restaurants, and a spa. The Preserve focuses on shooting sports, including a 10-station 5-stand range, a large and varied 19-stand sporting clays course, and the longest automated indoor shooting range in the U.S. Winter activities add cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing. For those not used to the sporting lifestyle, the well-stocked Borrowing Closet comes in handy, in partnership with famed British boot and outdoor clothing brand Hunter, lending guests all-weather footwear and outerwear. 

The residential community has options from condos to tiny houses to luxury residences, with most offered as nightly rentals, along with the hotel-style Hilltop Lodge, featuring apartment suites with kitchens. Just down the hill from the lodge is a wooden platform with outdoor furniture, fire pits, and two luxury African safari-themed tents—one for cigars, the other for whisky. The Preserve has partnered with Cohiba cigars and Laphroaig whisky to create a private tasting experience that includes Laphroaig 10 year old, 25 year old, Select, Lore, and Quarter Cask single malts along with Cohiba cigars like Royale and Black Gigante. A private tasting experience can be booked almost anytime, but on Thursdays and Sundays the tents operate like a bar, so anyone can stop by for a drink. 

The property also includes two Maker’s Mark Hobbit Houses that offer a storybook setting for a four-course lunch or dinner that includes a Maker’s Mark flight. The seasonal menu is paired with standard Maker’s Mark, 46, Cask Strength, and Private Selection Preserve Reserve. Elsewhere on the property, there are nearly five dozen whisky choices, including Hakushu and Yamazaki Japanese single malts, Bowmore 50 year old, Talisker 25 year old, and Little Book, among others. The most unique offering, thanks to the Laphroaig association, is the very rare 30 year old Ian Hunter Chapter 1. 

Activity packages include two sporting options daily and start around $500 per night per couple in winter and $750 in summer.

lit up lodge in front of mountain

The Lodge at Spruce Peak is a four-season resort that showcases many Vermont producers.

The Lodge at Spruce Peak—Stowe, Vt.

The Lodge is the best hotel at Vermont’s most famous ski resort, but Stowe is one of the rare ski towns that is busier in summer, thanks to endless festivals, farmers markets, great hiking and biking, plus many other outdoor pursuits. The Lodge is a dog-friendly four-season hotspot: In winter it’s Stowe’s only ski-in option, and from spring to fall it offers guests access to the otherwise private Mountain Course, ranked No. 1 in Vermont by Golf Advisor. There is an ice rink, guided and self-guided snowshoeing and hiking, fat tire winter biking, and cross-country skiing, all on-site. A year-round performing arts center gets national touring acts like Little Feat, and The Lodge has one of the nicest spas in the state. 

A recent renovation added the new Alpine Hall restaurant, which showcases a broad array of Vermont producers, from cheesemakers to farmers, and, most notably, debuted the WhistlePig Pavilion. This venue features WhistlePig’s 10, 12, 15, and 18 year old ryes, Farmstock, Piggyback, The Boss Hog VII Magellan’s Atlantic, and VIII Lapulapu’s Pacific, plus a slate of rye cocktails. In summer the tasting bar is a barbecue joint, while in winter it morphs into an alpine fondue-and-raclette shack with private heated pergolas. The Pavilion hosts live music every Saturday, and its barrel-aged Old Fashioned features WhistlePig 10 year old and the distillery’s own farmstead Vermont maple syrup and maple bitters.

Ski season rates begin at around $360 per night, summer rates at around $280, with additional discounts for members of Hyatt’s rewards program.

Park Hotel Kenmore offers outdoor pursuits aplenty alongside 4,000 whisky selections at the Cocktail Bar, home to one of Europe’s most expansive whisky collections.

Park Hotel Kenmare—Kenmare, Ireland

Built in 1897, Park Hotel Kenmare is a hidden gem in County Kerry, one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland. Situated on 12 acres overlooking Kenmare Bay, Park Hotel Kenmare offers another surprise—the Cocktail Bar—home to one of Europe’s largest whisky collections. Resident whisky expert John Moriarty, who is also a specialist instructor at the Dublin Bar Academy, can steer guests through a stunning list of about 4,000 selections from around the world. When he’s holding court in the bar, he offers private tasting sessions. When he’s not, he’s often leading guests on the hotel’s daily guided hikes. 

The Park Hotel sits along the famed Kerry Way hiking path, and also offers nearly every other outdoor pursuit you might expect to find in Ireland: horseback riding, biking, fishing, falconry, tennis, and croquet—as well as complimentary yoga, chi flow, and meditation classes daily. The hotel even has its own 18-hole golf course. Want to try something different? Go scuba diving or wakeboarding, or kayak out to view the seals on Kenmare Bay. And unlike at many top Irish country resorts, it is an easy walk from The Park into the charming town of Kenmare, where you can visit pubs, shops, and restaurants

The Park is owned by Francis and John Brennan, Irish brothers who’ve become local celebrities thanks to their hit TV series “At Your Service”—a show in which they help other hospitality owners make over their hotels and restaurants. The Park’s own assortment of dining options is impressive, with a focus on fine dining offered in the Dining Room, while the Outdoor Terrace is a less formal spot to enjoy breakfast or afternoon tea. At the Cocktail Bar, Moriarty’s favorite is the Spot range of single pot still Irish whiskeys—notably Green Spot Chateau Léoville Barton, matured in sherry and bourbon barrels and finished in wine casks from Bordeaux’s renowned Chateau Léoville Barton. The hotel’s Champagne Bar offers dozens of options including Krug, Salon, and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne. 

Off-season nightly rates begin around $350 for two, and in summer from $600.

man fly fishes in river

In addition to housing a brewery and a distillery, Brush Creek Ranch encourages guests toward a wide variety of outdoor activities, including fly fishing.

Brush Creek Ranch—Saratoga, Wyoming

Brush Creek is one of the most extensively equipped guest ranches in the U.S. This 30,000-acre site includes two lodging options: the Magee Homestead, a luxury, adults-only experience, and the Lodge & Spa, which welcomes families. The Farm at Brush Creek, meanwhile, offers a deep dive into the food and drink scene. Its amenities include a seed-to-table restaurant featuring produce grown on-site, a creamery, a bakery, a cavernous wine cellar, and The Spirit Vault, a speakeasy-style space with a secret entrance, which offers more than 100 whiskies focused on rare and small batch expressions. The Farm even has its own brewery and distillery, the latter producing whiskey, vodka, and gin. The distillery offers an in-depth sensory experience on how spirits are created at The Farm—encompassing a distillery tour, the historical background of its spirits, their connection to the land and environment, and an elevated tasting ($300) of Brush Creek’s whiskeys—which include a bourbon and rye—as well as its vodka and gin. This experience can be upgraded to add a barrel tasting, which offers a sneak peek of the distillery’s spirits at their various stages of maturation ($450). 

When guests are not eating or imbibing, the resort offers a broad assortment of outdoor activities. Most are included in the nightly rates, which also cover all meals and many adult beverages. In winter there is cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, skating, and ice fishing, while summer features fly-fishing, hiking, rock climbing, ATV adventures, mountain biking, archery, hiking, and golf at the private Old Baldy Club nearby. Horseback riding, shooting sports, yoga, and cooking classes are offered year-round. Several culinary experiences tie into the distillery, like the spent mash from the whiskey-making process being used to create The Bakery’s spent-grain bread, and char from the distillery’s barrels is used to make cheese at The Creamery.

The rustic chic accommodations at The Lodge include 19 rooms and 25 private cabins. Signature pours available at the property’s bars include two proprietary wine cask-finished blends of straight bourbons in partnership with prestigious Napa Valley wineries: Brush Creek Honig, using Honig Vineyard cabernet casks, and Brush Creek Chimney Rock finished in French oak cabernet casks. 

All-inclusive rates start around $2,000 per couple per night in winter and $3,100 in summer.

stage with instruments and microphone

The stage at Analog is one of two performance venues within the Hutton Hotel.

Hutton Hotel—Nashville, Tenn.

In recent years Music City has become one of the country’s most popular weekend getaway destinations, and among Nashville’s many boutique hotels, the recently renovated Hutton stands out for both whisky and music lovers (and for dog owners, as it is pet friendly). The extensive art collection throughout the property is music-themed, and the Hutton has in-room turntables for listening to a large selection of original albums from its Vinyl Library. The hotel also boasts a full recording studio, where visiting professional acts hole up to work on new material. There are two live music spaces: one in the lobby, while the other is the city’s best hotel performance venue, Analog, a 300-seat acoustically superior theater that has hosted Grammy Award-winning acts. Thanks to partnerships with Nashville-based instrument company Fender, the Hutton also offers activities you won’t find anyplace else, like the Fender Stay & Play Experiences, two-night packages for novices who want to learn to play or for musicians to improve their skills with in-room private instruction and loaner guitars, basses, and ukuleles. 

Analog has partnerships with local whiskey makers Nelson’s Green Brier and Jack Daniel. The bar carries rare offerings from both, including single barrel bottlings of Jack Daniel’s and allocated labels of Nelson Green Brier’s Belle Meade. That is just part of the bourbon-centric list, which includes options from Willett, WhistlePig, and Old Rip Van Winkle. The Hutton’s featured cocktail is the Bourbon Belle Old Fashioned, with Belle Meade Reserve, maple syrup, and Angostura and Peychaud’s bitters, garnished with an orange peel. 

Rooms are often available for under $300 a night, and at peak times begin around $450.

two bikers along path, barn up ahead

Biking tours of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail from travel specialist Backroads feature dinners and distillery visits.

Backroads Kentucky Bourbon Trail Bike Trip—Louisville, Ky.

Several years ago, Kentucky’s tourism authority mapped out a cycling route through the state’s prime bourbon-producing area between Louisville and Lexington. Backroads, the nation’s oldest and largest active travel specialist, was the first company to offer turnkey guided cycling tours of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. By providing high-quality bikes, GPS computers with turn-by-turn navigation, expert guides, luggage shuttling from one accommodation to the next, and van support with the option to cut rides short or avoid bad weather, this is by far the easiest way to undertake this unique active vacation. 

The trips (the main offering is a 5 day/4 night package) start and end at the Omni Louisville Hotel on the city’s downtown Whiskey Row, giving guests the option of extending their stay before or after. Several distilleries and visitor centers are within walking distance of the hotel, including Angel’s Envy, Evan Williams, Rabbit Hole, and Old Forester. Each day includes multiple riding route options of different lengths and challenges, visits to attractions such as 18th-century Fort Harrod, Shaker Village, thoroughbred horse farms, the must-see cities of Frankfort and Georgetown, and an evening of fireside bluegrass music. Four of the days include VIP distillery visits or tastings at Four Roses, Woodford Reserve, Castle and Key, and a private barrel tasting and blending experience at craft distillery Bourbon 30. 

Each night includes access to a restaurant or hotel with an extensive bourbon selection, with luxe lodging at the Versailles-inspired Kentucky Castle and Lexington’s 21c Museum Hotel. The 5 day/4-night package is offered multiple times from April to June and September to October. Custom private tours are available at other times. With varied daily options, routes are rated at difficulty levels 2 to 4 on Backroads’s 5-point scale. Choices of bikes include performance road, tandem, touring, or E-bikes. To start things off with a bang, at the end of day one, a guide awaits riding guests in the hotel parking lot with a welcome cocktail—the Backroads Kentucky Mule, made with Four Roses bourbon, Kentucky-made ginger soda Ale-8-1, a dash of lime, and a fresh mint sprig. 

Most dates are $3,300-$3,650 per person and are nearly all-inclusive.

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7 Whiskeys That Capture California’s Wine Country

Pick up any one of these seven selections by a diverse lineup of craft distillers from across the region.

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These days, famed California counties Napa and Sonoma aren’t just for wine—they’re brimming with fantastic whiskeys, too. When heading north of San Francisco, it’s well worth your time to visit a distillery, especially if it grants you the opportunity to taste any one of the whiskeys listed below.

Explore California Wine Country Through These Whiskeys

Sonoma Distilling Co. Cherrywood Rye
92 points, 47.8%, $50
A rich, lively palate loaded with red fruit, cinnamon spice, melted brown sugar, chocolate, and white pepper.

Savage & Cooke Second Glance American
91 points, 44%, $40
Finished in wine barrels from winemaker (and distillery owner) Dave Phinney, this offers clove-studded orange, rye spice, and lemon.

Redwood Empire Lost Monarch Blend of Straights
90 points, 45%, $43
Orange blossom, iced tea, dark berries, and leather on the nose, followed by fruit and spice on the palate—orange, cherry, cedar, and cinnamon.

Alley 6 Rye
89 points, 43%, $50
Spice, fresh rye grain, fresh red apple, raspberry jam, dark chocolate, white pepper; generous spice but no burn.

Charbay R5 Hop Flavored (Lot No. 5)
88 points, 49.5%, $60
Distilled from Racer 5 IPA; citrusy at first, but gives way to sugary oak, maple syrup, burnt brown sugar, and roasted malt.

Spirit Works Distillery Rye
88 points, 45%, $50
Sweet orange slices, red fruits, vanilla maltiness, melted caramel, grain, root beer, and marzipan. A great balance of fruit and spice.

Prohibition Spirits Hooker’s House Bourbon
86 points, 50%, $49
Finished in pinot noir barrels; new leather, aromatic oak, red berries, and pepper.

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California Wine Country Gets a Taste For Whiskey

Vineyards may be the main attraction in the rolling hills north of San Francisco, but whiskey lovers have plenty of reasons to visit too.

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When touring northern California, it’s not grain that comes to mind, but grapes. A mere hour north of San Francisco lie Sonoma and Napa Counties—home to over 1,700 wineries and the crown jewel of American wine, Napa Valley. While picturesque wineries and verdant vineyards are the main draw, craft distillers have staked their claim in wine country too, and are offering up something different for the wine-loving masses. 

Making your way to Sonoma, Napa, or beyond from San Francisco, the closest major transportation hub, is not too difficult—just hop in a car and hit Highway 101, wine country’s main artery. In an hour’s time, you’ll find yourself surrounded by lush expanses of vineyards, and quick trips off the highway will also take you to a number of distilleries. One of the first is Sonoma Distilling Co. in Rohnert Park, a small city with redwoods, creeks, and distant mountain views located on the doorstep of Sonoma County. The distillery is housed in a modern hangar-like building that looks almost industrial, but the whiskeys are entirely grain-to-glass. Most of the grain is sourced from California (Canadian and Midwestern grain is included to fill out needs), but all distillation, aging, and bottling takes place on-site.

map of northern California coast with distillery names pinpointed

Sonoma Distilling was founded in 2010. Rye was once at the forefront, but these days the distillery’s Sonoma County bourbon is the star. It’s not the only popular bourbon made here: Sonoma also offers a cherrywood-smoked bourbon, made using an on-site smoker. Rye still plays a prominent role, but in smaller, more experimental ways, including an annual release that’s infused with Perigord truffles from France. Additionally, there’s a cherrywood-smoked rye on the roster.

In nearby Sonoma proper, Prohibition Spirits has distilled whiskey in the city’s industrial area since 2012. Here, wine country played a direct influence on owners Fred and Amy Groth’s desire to make whiskey. “We were trying to figure out how to make a wine country-influenced whiskey, considering that all whiskeys, to me, start out the same,” says Fred. “Eighty percent of the flavor is really coming from the barrel. So if we can influence that barrel, and aging, then we can come up with something that’s unique and representative of Sonoma and wine country—a true crossover hybrid.” While Prohibition Spirits does distill a portion of its whiskey, Fred notes that he considers the distillery more of a negociant, working with local distilleries and buying their whiskeys to round out their own brand: Hooker’s House whiskeys. 

Named after General Joseph Hooker (a Civil War-era Sonoma legend), the core lineup includes a straight bourbon finished in pinot noir barrels from Schug Winery, straight rye finished in zinfandel barrels from Gundlach-Bundshu Winery, and a sour mash whiskey finished in wine barrels. Amy notes that there are other occasional one-off releases, as the distillery is constantly experimenting. This year, for instance, they’ve been working with smoke—using vacuum extraction to pull smoke through whiskey and brandy, and bringing peat in from Scotland.

Continue north on Highway 101 and you’ll find more distilleries, some surrounded—quite literally—by vineyards and winery tasting rooms on all sides. Not far outside Santa Rosa is Sebastopol, home to many wineries, among them Kosta Browne, Clifton Family, Dunah, and Pax Wines—and that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Nestled among them is Spirit Works, located in an upscale shopping center that was once an apple cannery. This distiller revels in its status as an outlier in wine country, noting that most people who seek them out are true whiskey aficionados rather than casual wine tourists. Spirit Works’s grain is mainly sourced from California, specifically the Sacramento Valley. A small percentage of its rye is grown right down the road, and used for the annual release of its Gazelle rye label. While locally sourced grain contributes to the overall profile of the whiskeys, the distillery’s proximity to the Pacific coastline—about 15 miles away—and its temperate climate are key influencers. The absence of major temperature swings, as seen in places like Kentucky or Texas, lends a mellow aspect to the whiskey, and the sea air contributes a subtle effect, ultimately creating smooth, soft, and sippable whiskeys. Spirit Works’s star performer is its Four Grain straight bourbon, which routinely sells out, though its wheat whiskey and cask strength variants of its core range also drum up plenty of interest.

A man and a woman stand by a whiskey still

Husband and wife team Timo and Ashby Marshall of Sebastopol-based Spirit Works, whose star performer is its Four Grain straight bourbon. (Photo by David Fenton)

Several miles up the road from Sebastopol is the town of Graton, where winery tasting rooms and grapevines abound. In the thick of it all is Redwood Empire Distilling, which is located within a winery. “We utilize a lot of the same resources, people, materials, barrels, aging regimens, all of that, as…we have countless ties to the wine world,” says head distiller Lauren Patz. Redwood Empire Distilling currently uses sourced liquid, but the brand is ramping up production of its own-make distillate, made from 100% California-grown grain. In recent years, the Redwood Empire label has also experimented with locally coopered barrels. “There are a lot of great cooperages on the wine side building beautiful barrels for wineries, and they’re starting to adapt for the whiskey business,” says master distiller Jeff Duckhorn. (Both the Patz and Duckhorn names will be recognizable to wine lovers—Lauren is part of the renowned family that co-founded Sonoma-based Patz & Hall, while Jeff is part of Napa Valley’s Duckhorn family.)

Out of around 5,000 barrels currently aging on-site at Redwood Empire, 4,000 contain house-made whiskey, though Duckhorn continues to purchase whiskey from MGP and Bardstown Bourbon Co. to meet demand. Of the nearly 35,000 cases Redwood Empire sells annually, 20,000 are house-made whiskey—the remainder are sourced. A second still has been purchased to boost production, and the team is looking for a new facility nearby to support further growth.

Among Redwood Empire’s whiskeys are two newly released bottled in bond expressions, Grizzly Beast bourbon and Rocket Top rye, which will be released annually. These join a core lineup that includes Pipe Dream bourbon, Emerald Giant rye, and Lost Monarch blended whiskey. For both Patz and Duckhorn, the unique proposition of California whiskey is its gentle flavor profile, as well as each distiller’s dedication to following their own path. “California whiskey embraces this ‘go your own way’ approach, and we see each distillery crafting their own spirit in their own special way,” says Patz. “We do that here, through the addition of purchased whiskey into our blend, and we put a lot of effort into balancing the flavor profiles. The general aging process in California, too, lends itself to a softer, mellower flavor profile, as we age for longer and under less drastic temperature changes.”

A woman checks a whiskey still

At Prohibition Spirits in Sonoma, Amy Groth (pictured) and her husband Fred have been distilling whiskey since 2012.

Further north and slightly more inland, in Healdsburg, Alley 6 Craft Distillery experiences more dramatic temperature changes from night to day and season to season, which ultimately means the whiskeys are bolder and take less time to develop. “We don’t have hibernating alcohol that’s going to take four to five years to evolve,” says Alley 6 distiller Jason Jorgenson. “This means we can pretty consistently have fun with weird stuff we’re experimenting with.” Such experimental releases include a series of whiskeys finished in seven different wine casks, a single malt, and a rum-cask finished whiskey. While Jorgenson takes pride in the distillery’s experimental nature, rye is at the heart of its production, and was the first whiskey he ever made. “The rye is our flagship product, and it was the one whiskey we had created in our garage before we actually started the distillery,” he says. Alley 6 rye accounts for the majority of production, and is one of the only whiskeys available outside the distillery, in addition to the Alley 6 single malt.

One of the northernmost distilleries in California wine country—and also the veteran of the group— is Charbay, located in Ukiah, in Mendocino County and founded in 1983. As with its fellow wine country distilleries, Charbay’s locale is known less for distilling than winemaking, with some large-production wineries—like Frey, Bonterra, and Fife—within city limits. That makes Charbay’s calling card even more contrary, as the distillery specializes in distilling beer. One of its primary releases, R5, is double-distilled from Sonoma County-based Bear Republic Brewery’s Racer 5 IPA, and is chock full of intense hop flavor. A more recent release is Doubled & Twisted, a blend of three whiskeys: a 4 year old from straight malt, an 8 year old from stout, and a 4 year old from pilsner. Master distiller Marko Karakasevic is keen on getting ultra-aged whiskeys out the door in the near future. “The next small run we have is a whiskey from 2011, and that’ll come out later this year,” he says. “It’s a freak of nature, and I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to duplicate it again—we’ll only have 200 bottles for sale.” Due to its size (it’s the largest distillery in Mendocino County, and one of the larger distilleries in California wine country overall), Charbay cannot yet have a tasting room, as California law doesn’t permit retail sales from distillers producing over 100,000 gallons of spirit each year, thus making a visit to the distillery somewhat moot. This is in contrast to many other California distillers (at least those mentioned in this story, all of which have tasting rooms open to the public).

People gather outside a whiskey distillery and listen to live music

While Healdsburg’s Alley 6 Craft Distillery is more experimental than some of its peers, a flagship rye remains its primary focus. (Photo by Cynthia Glassell)

If you’re leaving wine country the same way you entered—from San Francisco—a quick detour on the way back down will take you to Mare Island, a small peninsula in Vallejo, 23 miles northeast of San Francisco. Mare Island is home to Savage & Cooke, the brainchild of famed California winemaker Dave Phinney, who’s behind household names like Orin Swift and The Prisoner. Since Savage & Cooke opened its doors in 2018, it has relied exclusively on sourced whiskey—mainly aged bourbons from Kentucky, Indiana, and Tennessee. By next year, however, its own-make distillate will make its way into bottles, especially as it creeps up in age (the distillery’s oldest barrels are now between 3 and 4 years old). Among the first bottlings to feature Savage & Cooke’s own distillate will be Second Glance American whiskey and The Burning Chair bourbon. 

The whiskey now aging at Savage & Cooke is made primarily from grain grown less than 30 minutes from Mare Island. For Phinney, California’s agricultural prowess is precisely what makes his whiskey so special. “The fact that we’re able to get our grains from so close to the distillery, and that our water is sourced from an amazing spring in Alexander Valley, is what makes this area so great for whiskey,” he says. “Eventually, we’ll have a product that’s grown, made, and bottled at the source. Even the barrels are made here.” All Savage & Cooke’s whiskeys are finished in wine barrels from Phinney’s Napa Valley Cabernet projects. Phinney has created a multidimensional experience for his guests, offering tours, specialized tastings, and a restaurant.

So, while wine may top the agenda for most travelers visiting California’s wine country, consider stopping at a distillery on your next trip. You’ll discover that the creative California mindset extends far beyond wine, to exceptional whiskeys as well.

Seven Whiskeys Straight Out of Wine Country

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The Fall of Whiskey [Cocktail Recipe]

Cool cider and fresh pear balance out spicy rye in this cocktail, which is meant to capture the transition into Fall.

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Created by Anthony Baker, a freelance cocktail professor, this refreshing drink hints of cooler weather ahead. The fresh pear and apple cider cool the heat of the rye whiskey with wonderful spice notes from the bitters.

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Nothing Com-Pears to You [Cocktail Recipe]

Poached pear is featured twice in this autumnal cocktail, both as a garnish and an essential ingredient.

The post Nothing Com-Pears to You [Cocktail Recipe] appeared first on Whisky Advocate.

Elegant pear adds a velvety texture to this crimson cocktail, created by Summer-Jane Bell, partner at Hello Stranger Bar in Oakland, Calif.. “The aromatic spices and tannin from the wine play well with the cask notes in the whisky,” Bell adds.

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The Affordable Pear Act [Cocktail Recipe]

This riff on the Whiskey Sour uses baking spices and Asian pears to deliver fall flavors and a layer of complexity.

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This silky cocktail was created by Alec Pignotti, beverage manager at Recess in Chicago. It adds an extra layer of complexity to a Whisky Sour, with warm baking spices and Asian pears.

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4 Foolproof Whisky and Pumpkin Cocktails

Embrace fall flavors by whipping up one of these whisky and pumpkin cocktails, including seasonal takes on an Old Fashioned and a Hot Toddy.

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Pumpkin flavor instantly evokes memories of autumn: vibrant yellow and auburn-colored trees, a slight chill in the air, and the rustle of crisp leaves under your feet. And there are so many delicious ways to enjoy the fruit—yes, it’s a fruit—from pies to breads to soups and even whisky cocktails. “When pumpkin is cooked it releases natural baking spice flavors that wonderfully complement the barrel-aged notes in whisky,” says Billy Caruso, Chicago-based executive chef and beverage director at Rye Deli + Drink. “I like the viscosity and texture that pumpkin brings to a cocktail—it creates a more round and full-bodied mouthfeel.”

There are lots of possibilities for experimentation with pumpkin in a whisky drink. You can make pumpkin syrup, which typically consists of pumpkin puree, sugar, and water, and there are many ways to make it your own. You can use it to infuse whisky, which involves steeping pumpkin in the spirit, or you can simply add pureed pumpkin to your favorite whisky cocktail, which is how Caruso prefers to use it. “But I do have one tip if you’re going to puree the pumpkin yourself,” he says. “Always use a high-powered blender to get the pumpkin to a velvety-smooth texture. Otherwise it will break up when combined with other ingredients and make it look like your cocktail has sea monkeys in it—nobody wants that.”

4 Whisky and Pumpkin Cocktails to Try

Autumn Harvest: 2 oz. rye whiskey + 1½ tsp. pumpkin pie syrup + 3 dashes Angostura bitters
In a rocks glass stir rye, syrup, and bitters with ice for 15 seconds. Top with more ice and garnish with a star anise pod or cinnamon stick.
Created by Blaze Laroe of the since closed Chikatana in Chicago

Tangy Pumpkin Toddy: 1¼ oz. bourbon + 1¾ oz. Proof Pumpkin Spice syrup + ½ oz. Apologue Saffron liqueur + Hot water
Combine ingredients in a hot toddy glass and top with hot water. Garnish with powdered sugar-coated dehydrated pumpkin flesh pieces or Jelly Belly Pumpkins.
Created by Matt Shores from Daisies in Chicago

Pumpkin Old Fashioned: 1½ oz. bourbon + 2 Tbsp. pumpkin puree +  ½ oz. Grand Marnier + 1 oz. maple syrup + 2 dashes bitters
Combine bourbon, Grand Marnier, maple syrup, pumpkin puree, and bitters in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and strain through a fine mesh strainer into a chilled Old Fashioned glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with a rosemary sprig or orange peel.
From Boxer Hotel’s former Finch restaurant in Boston

Smashing Pumpkins: 2 oz. bourbon + 1 oz. pumpkin puree* + 1 oz. lemon juice + 1 oz. egg white
Dry shake bourbon, lemon juice, and egg white for 20 seconds. Add ice and pumpkin puree, shake for another 20 seconds. Double strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish with 2 dashes Angostura bitters.

*Peel, remove seeds, and dice a sweet pumpkin, roast at 300º until fork tender, about 45 minutes to an hour. While warm, add it to a blender along with water and puree until velvety smooth, adding more water if needed. Let it cool.
Created by Billy Caruso of Rye Deli + Drink in Chicago

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The Whisky Lover’s Guide to Shochu

Shochu is massively popular in Japan, but barely known on American shores.

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“Although it’s been around for more than 500 years and is popular in Japan, shochu is still breaking into American drinking culture,” says Tetsuro Miyazaki, general manager of Iichiko Shochu USA. “It’s known as the native spirit of Japan, and it offers an incredibly rich umami flavor while also remaining very light with a smooth finish.”

Shochu can be made from any number of ingredients, but the most common types available in the U.S. are barley (mugi), sweet potato (imo), rice (kome), and unrefined cane sugar, also called black sugar (kokuto). The base ingredient is fermented using koji mold—just like in sake production—but unlike sake, which is brewed, shochu is distilled like whisky. Most traditional shochu is single-distilled in pot stills (honkaku) but it can also be made by continuous distillation (ko-rui). After distillation, water is usually added to bring the alcohol content to between 20% and 43% before the spirit rests in stainless steel tanks or clay pots, or is aged in wood barrels.

“Shochu has quite a few flavor profiles and characteristics that depend on the base ingredient used as well as the variety of koji used—and while I’m a firm believer that there’s no right or wrong way to enjoy a dram, there are different serving options that can greatly enhance this special spirit,” says Victoria Vera, general manager and shochu buyer at Tsunami Panhandle in San Francisco, which carries the largest shochu selection in the country. “Kokuto shochu is the most friendly style—one I almost always recommend to a first timer or novice—and is refreshing on the rocks; kome shochu tends to be light and smooth, working well in a cocktail, neat, or on the rocks; mugi shochu can be either light and fruity or grainy and oaky depending on the aging vessel and tastes amazing on the rocks; imo shochu is not for the faint of heart—it is big, bold, and funky in the best way possible and I love to enjoy it in a ceramic mug that’s filled halfway up with hot water.”

Whisky enthusiasts—particularly fans of Japanese and scotch—will find similar characteristics in mugi shochu. Non-wood aged mugi shochu will have familiar flavors from the cereal grain, while cask-aged mugi brings in those lovely toasty notes. “Introducing whisky drinkers to shochu with an oak-aged mugi shochu is the smoothest transition,” Vera says. “From there you can often entice them to explore shochus distilled from other grains that also spent time aging in different vessels such as sherry or cognac barrels.” Other types of shochu will also have flavors whisky drinkers love, from clean, fruity, and floral kome shochu to smooth and lightly sweet kokuto shochu to earthy and umami imo shochu. 

In addition to the hundreds of Japanese shochu distillers, there are several U.S. producers aiming to make shochu a household spirit among American drinkers, including American Shochu Company in Frederick, Maryland, Hawaiian Shochu Company in Oahu, Horyzon Spirits in Atlanta, and St. George Spirits in Alameda, California. “I believe every shochu is worth exploring,” Vera says.

Six Shochus to Try

Hyakunen no Kodoku—40%, $85
This single-distilled shochu contains 100% estate-grown organic barley. A bourbon fan will appreciate its aging in new American oak for 3 to 5 years, which imparts a soft, mellow sweetness as well as oak and cigar notes, with layers of coconut and fragrant barley flavors. This shochu’s sweetness becomes more pronounced when mixed with water.

Iichiko Saiten—43%, $33
Made for mixing in cocktails, this is a single-distilled, non-wood aged barley shochu, with aromas of honeydew, white grapes, kabosu citrus, soy, white pepper, and barley notes. On the palate it exudes rich umami flavors of jasmine tea, white peach, and hints of citrus, with a maltiness similar to single malt whiskies, especially those from the Lowlands.

Nankai Gold—43%, $74
A blend of 80% single-distilled black sugar and 20% rice shochus, each aged up to 5 years in American white oak and French limousin casks before blending. It has qualities similar to Japanese whisky, with fruity, floral, and malty aromas and gentle notes of fruit, raisins, chocolate, and honey.

Satsuma Kuradashi Genshu—37%, $45
This non-wood aged sweet potato shochu is single-distilled and undiluted (genshu), resulting in a silky-smooth palate—similar in character to bourbon—with shy herbal and floral notes, and the enticing flavor and aroma of sweet potato pie. When poured over ice, it becomes lighter and more lively—its umami flavors make it an excellent accompaniment to a meal and in cocktails.

St. George California Shochu—40%, $50
Single-distilled from Calrose rice sake lees—the solid mash byproduct left over from sake production—from Takara Sake Brewery in Berkley, California. It offers cashew, pistachio, sweet mushroom, and dried cocoa on the nose, with the cocoa further developing on the palate as bittersweet chocolate. Enjoy in a Highball or in a Japanese whisky cocktail.

Tenshi no Yuwaku Imo—40%, $80
Aged 10 years in sherry casks, this undiluted sweet potato shochu is one of the longest-aged shochus available in the U.S. It has a thick, creamy texture, with bold and lush flavors of vanilla bean, dried fruits, sweet potato, and a whisper of dried orange peel on the long finish. This shochu will appeal to fans of sherry cask-finished single malts.

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The Future is Bright for Nordic Whiskies

Finland, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, and Iceland are making some head-turning whiskies that embrace Nordic climates and traditions.

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Let me take you to a land of volcanoes and glaciers, rugged coastlines and deep fjords, Viking legends and the aurora borealis. The Nordic region is admired for its contemporary interior design, inspiring architecture, and timber summer cabins tucked into forest clearings. Now, Nordic whisky can be included in that array. It’s a vibrant time for distilleries from the Jutland Peninsula to the Arctic Circle and across to Iceland, the land of fire and ice. The spectrum of this region’s whisky flavors is as diverse as the Nordic landscape itself. Over the past two decades, distillers throughout the region have built a culture of craftsmanship and innovation, turning this special place into one of the world’s prime locations for making whisky.

Finland

Teerenpeli Distillery—Founded 2002
Teerenpeli is located in Lahti, about 60 miles north of Helsinki, and operates a brewery, seven restaurants, and a downtown distillery with a new visitor center. The distillery draws water from a substantial underground aquifer of glacial meltwater that’s filtered through a deep gravel bed. It also has a ready source of native barley from local malting suppliers. The only missing element is local peated malt, so its new U.S. release, Teerenpeli Savu, uses Scottish malt peated to 55 phenol parts per million (ppm) that is blended with Teerenpeli’s local malt. Both standard and small casks are used for maturation, and Teerenpeli ages all its whiskies inside insulated shipping containers where the ventilation can be adjusted and the temperature monitored. Founder Anssi Pyssing expects to use this maturation method for all the distillery’s whiskies for the foreseeable future.

A man leads a whiskey tasting

Grab a tasting and a tour at Teerenpeli’s new visitor center.

As Teerenpeli passes its 20th anniversary, a handful of other Finnish spirits producers have emerged in recent years. The newer ones are turning to rye whisky and single malt, while also producing gins and aquavits. Pyssing’s goal is to create greater cooperation among Nordic distillers to help the region’s whiskies gain wider worldwide recognition.

Try It:
Teerenpeli Kaski—90 points, 43%, $130
Teerenpeli Portti—90 points, 43%, $130
Teerenpeli Savu—88 points, 43%, $130

Denmark

Stauning Whisky—Founded 2005
Taking its design inspiration from local farm buildings and fishing huts, Stauning opened its current distillery in 2018 with an ingenious custom-designed malting floor—the barley is turned with a unique system of spinning rakes like a combine harvester—24 squat stills, and an annual production capacity equivalent to Springbank Distillery’s 750,000 liters of pure alcohol (lpa). Co-founder Alex Munch likens the climate on Denmark’s west coast to Islay, but emphasizes that his goal is to craft Danish whisky, not Islay-style scotch.

Many small copper stills in a room

Stauning Whisky uses 24 squat stills to make rye and malt whisky.

“We want to create a Nordic terroir,” he says. “We have a lot of farmland here, great clean water, and local grain.” Barley and rye are locally sourced and malted on-site. A Highland-style Danish peat is used for Stauning’s peated malt, but it has augmented its smoky batches by burying local heather under loose peat in the kiln to add flavor.

Stauning’s whisky has a weighty mouthfeel, the result of a long fermentation producing more fruity esters that create pear, apple, and citrus flavors. Its kiln is heated with the hot air produced by its 24 direct-fired pot stills, and distillation is slow. “Making whisky will never be super energy efficient, but we’re really trying to do better,” Munch says.

Try It:
Stauning Bastard—92 points, 46.3%, $78
Stauning Kaos—91 points, 46%, $79
Stauning Rye—88 points, 48%, $73

ICELAND

Eimverk Distillery—Founded 2009
In its pursuit of authentic Icelandic whisky, Eimverk embodies the admirable qualities of autonomy, freedom from convention, self-sufficiency, and sheer inventiveness. Although the distillery first gained notoriety for using sheep dung rather than peat, there’s much more to its story.

Iceland is the closest whisky-producing Nordic country to the U.S., and that proximity has had a decided influence. “We’re in the middle of the Atlantic, and there’s always been a strong connection to the U.S.,” says Halli Thorkelsson, founder of this family-run enterprise on the outskirts of Reykjavík.

Halli Thorkelsson founded Eimverk Distillery in 2009 on the outskirts of Reykjavík. The distillery ships its Flóki whiskies to 19 countries.

Eimverk, producer of Flóki whisky, mashes equal ratios of malted and unmalted Icelandic barley. It uses old milk tanks repurposed as wash stills as well as other hand-built equipment to run in-grain fermentation and distillation, where the grains are still in the solution when added to the fermenters and wash stills, rather than being drained off after mashing—quite unconventional for Europe. The distillery taps into Iceland’s abundant supply of geothermal water, passing it through a heat exchanger to lower its energy footprint. Predominantly using charred virgin oak casks lends Eimverk’s whiskies a bourbon or Tennessee whiskey slant. The distillery has an active finishing program, using sherry casks but also more unorthodox choices like birchwood, Icelandic craft beer, and mead casks.

This island nation is at the limit of the world’s barley-growing zone, which presents a fundamental challenge to making whisky. Eimverk uses native barley grown and malted on the family farm. Two species of two-row barley are planted, specially selected for these tough growing conditions. The resulting harvest is typically about half of what a farmer might expect in Scotland, and each ton produces 10% to 20% less alcohol. Barley grown this far north is inherently spicy, with a relatively low amount of sugars due to the short summer, imbuing the whisky with fresh grassy tones and a distinct spicy pepperiness.

Eimverk Distillery has the capacity to make 34,500 lpa, and it ships Flóki whiskies to 19 countries. “We’re in this for the long run,” confirms Thorkelsson. “We’ve even planted some oak trees, but it’s going to take a while to get our own barrels!”

Try It:
Flóki Icelandic Birch-Finished Single Malt—92 points, 47%, $100
Flóki Sheep Dung-Smoked Reserve Single Malt—91 points, 47%, $100
Flóki Single Malt—89 points, 47%, $100

Learn More About the Sheep Dung Smoking Process

NORWAY

Aurora Spirit Distillery—Founded 2016
Winter is the most spectacular time in Norway; you’ve got enormous snow drifts, clear skies, and the aurora borealis,” says Colin Houston, cask program manager at Aurora Spirit Distillery, the northernmost distillery in the world. Situated in spectacular surroundings within the Arctic Circle, over 1,000 miles north of Oslo, this facility was built on the site of a former WWII German military fort. At latitude 69°N, this is the land of the midnight sun and the polar night; in the depths of winter the sun doesn’t come over the horizon for two months.

Man rolling a barrel in the snow

Aurora is the northernmost distillery in the world, making whisky, gin, vodka, and other spirits.

The distillery makes a variety of Arctic spirits using its hybrid pot and column still, though it brings in a pilsner malt-based wash from the Mack microbrewery, located 50 miles away, for its whisky production. “I’ve watched the Mack delivery lorries come up here with enormous studded tires and chains as they belt their way through the Arctic weather to get to us,” describes Houston.

For maturation, quarter casks are typically used, though many of Aurora’s experimental casks are even smaller for faster maturation. Virgin Hungarian oak, chestnut, cherry, sauternes, madeira, rye whiskey, palo cortado, and aquavit casks are all in the pipeline. The small barrels are rolled into the tunnels of a nearby former NATO base to mature, though a new warehouse resembling a Viking longhouse will soon be completed.

While there is no oak growing in the Arctic, Aurora’s distilling team started the Arctic Barley Project two years ago with the aim of growing local barley for its whisky in collaboration with neighboring farmers. The first year produced about seven tons and, using an old farmer’s yeast on the unmalted barley, Aurora made a grain whisky and filled two casks. “The flavors it gives are insane,” beams Houston. “We’re getting a mixture of floral and fruity notes that I’ve not experienced in other whiskies.”

Aurora Spirit’s debut European releases, Bivrost Niflheim and Bivrost Nidavellir, sold out quickly. Currently Aurora Spirits is in discussions with U.S. importers, and plans twice-yearly Bivrost releases in Europe with the anticipation of greater availability by 2025. The nascent craft spirits movement in Norway has encouraged around 10 distilleries to make whisky—with Myken, Det Norske Brenneri, and Feddie all worth watching.

Try It:
Look for a U.S. release of Bivrost within the next one to two years.

SWEDEN

Mackmyra Whisky—Founded 1999
Vertical distilleries are uncommon, but Mackmyra has pioneered the concept (and is now being followed by Edinburgh’s Port of Leith Distillery, currently under construction). Mackmyra opened its second production site in 2010, a distinctive 35-meter-tall gravity distillery. Aside from the energy efficiency of the operation, it offers visitors the opportunity to take an elevator to the top to learn about whisky production as they descend floor by floor. Mackmyra makes the quintessential Swedish whisky, and with the skill of master blender Angela D’Orazio, it captures the essence of Sweden through the use of local barley, peat, yeast, oak, and finishing casks.

Barrels in a warehouse

Mackmyra stores a bulk of its whisky 164 feet underground in a mine that first opened in 1857. The distillery also has six other satellite warehouses.

Mackmyra uses a Swedish white moss peat packed with forest matter. Distinctively, the distillery adds twigs of freshly cut juniper to the peat. Its malting facility is a customized shipping container where it smokes the peat for 36 hours to achieve peat levels of 50 to 60 ppm. “The Swedish peat gives us a rather herbal character, but adding the dominant flavor of the juniper twigs, we get this oilier, cold barbecue aroma into it, which is fantastic,” enthuses D’Orazio, “It has this Swedish forest essence to it.”

Mackmyra works extensively with Swedish oak, which has its own unique flavor profile with lower levels of wood sugars than American oak. “Our oak is very slow-growing, and it gives us quite massive flavors, similar to French oak,” says D’Orazio. “It has a beautiful, oriental aromatic composition when it’s fresh, with notes of ginger, coriander, aniseed, cedarwood, sandalwood, and tobacco leaf. Together, it’s like a most beautiful perfume.”

Mackmyra stores much of its whisky 164 feet underground in the Bodås Mine, an old iron ore facility that opened in 1857. It has six other satellite warehouses, including Europe’s highest warehouse at the Lofsdalen Skybar restaurant, but it’s the chambers in the mine that are cherished for their stable temperatures of 44° to 48°F.

Mackmyra is a fruity whisky, with notes of citrus, pear, and grassy herbal tones, plus ginger and aniseed spiciness. While the U.S. only has one expression of Mackmyra at present, D’Orazio oversees an active program of experimental casks that capture different seasonal moods, from lingonberry, cloudberry, and birch sap wines to coffee, amarone, Japanese green tea, and calvados, which have helped Mackmyra cultivate a strong identity among its legions of European fans.

Spirit of Hven Distillery—Founded 2007
This Swedish island distillery is situated between the Danish and Swedish mainland in the strait of Öresund, where it makes single malt and grain whiskies and organic gin, and collaborated on the first Swedish blended whisky. Grain is sourced on the island, with much of the barley being certified organic; a unique microclimate means it enjoys greater humidity and more hours of sunshine than most of Sweden. Conscious that everything needs to be transported on and off the island by boat, founder Henric Molin hopes to source 100% of his raw materials from the island by 2023, from cereal grains to gin botanicals. He maintains a strong focus on organic barley: “We want to do the best for the environment and meet our sustainability goals while being as efficient as possible with the local harvest.”

Spirit of Hven started making single malt whiskies, then added a lab, a grain facility with column stills, and a rare wooden Coffey still. “Our objective from the beginning wasn’t world domination, but to be small and interesting and seek out those different flavor characteristics,” says Molin. While every Swedish distiller has their own unique approach to making whisky, Molin sees common ground. “It’s not like we smell this and say this is a Swedish whisky, like you might identify bourbon or an Islay scotch, but I think we still see a Swedish profile. It’s very intense in flavor, and tends to be quite peppery and spicy compared to scotch.”

High Coast Distillery—Founded 2010
The High Coast of Sweden is a UNESCO World Heritage site and High Coast Distillery (formerly Box Distillery) stands here on the bank of the colossal Ångerman River. While it uses soft, clean water for making whisky, it takes full advantage of the mighty river and the 128,000 gallons of ice-cold water that pass every second to cool the vapors in its condensers. Distillery manager Roger Melander says, “Really cold cooling water is integral to the flavor of our new-make spirit.”

A man leads a large whisky tasting inside a barrel warehouse

High Coast has a larger U.S. presence than other Swedish whisky producers, with its Hav single malt earning the No.-6 spot on our 2021 Top 20.

Melander experiments with maturation by varying cask size, heat treatment, oak species, and filling strength, taking into account the performance of the variables against the large seasonal fluctuations in warehouse temperature. He prefers bourbon casks and American oak sherry casks. During maturation, alcohol strength increases slightly at High Coast, so Melander has adjusted the filling strength from 63% down to 60% and is contemplating cutting to 58% to produce even better flavors.

In stark contrast to many distilleries, High Coast revels in temperature fluctuations inside its warehouse, which can vary over a range of 100°F. The black warehouse roof absorbs heat in the summer highs of around 82°F, but in winter it can drop to -22°F, resulting in ice forming on the surface of the barrels. “This interactive maturation forces spirit in and out of the pores of the oak,” explains Melander. “Yoichi Distillery in Hokkaido, Japan is the only distillery in the world that has similar seasonal temperature changes, but unfortunately, they mature nearly every drop at Miyagikyo Distillery in Sendai.”

High Coast has a bigger U.S. presence than any other Nordic distillery, and Melander is confident about the long-term prospects for Nordic whisky overall. “Japan started making whisky almost 100 years ago, and today the market for Japanese whisky is enormous. Sweden, Finland, Norway, and Denmark could easily be the next Japan.”

Try It:
High Coast Älv—92 points, 46%, $50
High Coast Berg—92 points, 50%, $60
High Coast Hav—93 points, 48%, $50

Spirit of Hven Hvenus Rye—91 points, 45.6%, $77
Spirit of Hven Mercurious Corn—90 points, 45.6%, $55
Spirit of Hven Tycho’s Star Single Malt—87 points, 41.8%, $130

Mackmyra 1st Edition—91 points, 46.1%, $90/liter

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Sheep Dung-Smoked Whisky Is Real And It’s Actually Pretty Good

In the Icelandic tradition, Eimverk Distillery uses sheep dung to make its smoked Floki single malt, one of the many whiskies it produces.

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Sheep dung is the one thing that most people associate with Icelandic whisky. “It’s pretty good shit,” jokes Eimverk Distillery founder Halli Thorkelsson with a boyish grin, brandishing a tall glass jar filled with dry brown bricks of ovine excreta. This is not a gimmick: Smoking with sheep dung is traditional. “Every Icelander eats lamb at Christmas that’s been smoked with sheep dung,” explains Thorkelsson. It’s only natural that it should be part of making a traditional Icelandic whisky too.

Due to Iceland’s cold temperatures, sheep are moved into barns for the winter. Compacted under cloven hooves, the layers of dung incorporate a lot of hay and solidify over time. The dung is shoveled out in the spring and left to harden over the summer. Dried, it smells a little like peat, though unlike peat, it only takes a year to form, rather than thousands of years. “You definitely get some … different tones,” says Thorkelsson, taking a deep sniff of the jar, “It’s surprisingly earthy and reminds you of the smell of the farm, rather than reminding you where it actually came from!”

This far north, the long cold nights drop below the dew point, requiring all barley to be dried straight from the fields when it’s cut in September. Historically, a local cheap fuel would be burned to generate heat to dry it, and consequently everything would taste of smoke. Of course, in modern Icelandic agriculture, the harvest can be dried without smoke, and Eimverk only needs sufficient smoked barley to make Flóki Sheep Dung Smoked Reserve twice a year.

As the distillery’s Flóki whiskies are single-barrel bottlings, the subtle bucolic smokiness can vary with each batch, just like floor-malted Islay single malts from 40 to 50 years ago. Forget the peat reek from the pagodas of Bowmore or Laphroaig—Eimverk has perfected pre-malting smoke, the burning dung smoke being drawn through a dryer for 24 to 48 hours. “The amount of smoke varies depending on the day the barley was taken from the fields, how dry or wet it was, whether it was raining, and how long it stayed in the dryer,” explains Thorkelsson. Unlike peat, there’s no parts per million grading for this process; just pick a barrel and see what the farm gave up that day.

Flóki Sheep Dung-Smoked Reserve Single Malt
91 points, 47%, $100

Made from smoked Icelandic barley, the nose has earthy mushroom-farm notes, with herbs, damp grass cuttings, tree sap, toasted nuts, and fresh barley top notes. This begs to be poured over ice cream; sweet malt and banoffee caramel spill over the taste buds with toasted almonds, ripe banana, and an edge of spice. The thick, heavy mouthfeel negotiates cinnamon, burnt sugar, subtle smoke, and blackened wood to finish.

The Future is Bright for Nordic Whiskies

The post Sheep Dung-Smoked Whisky Is Real And It’s Actually Pretty Good appeared first on Whisky Advocate.