The Whisky Lover’s Guide to Pisco

Pisco is a South American brandy that the whisky drinker will find well worth exploring.

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In Herbert Asbury’s 1933 book “The Barbary Coast: An Informal History of the San Francisco Underworld,” he reports on the most popular drink in San Francisco during the 1870s, the Pisco Punch. “Its base was Pisco brandy, which was distilled from the grape known as Italia, or La Rosa del Peru, and was named for the Peruvian port from which it was shipped,” Asbury writes. “It was thus described by a writer who first tasted it in 1872: ‘It is perfectly colorless, terribly strong and has a flavor somewhat resembling that of Scotch whiskey [sic], but much more delicate, with a marked fruity taste.” As Diego Loret de Mola, founder, director, and master distiller of Barsol Pisco points out, “Since the very first time pisco landed in the United States in the 1800s, it was compared to whisky.”

Indeed, pisco is well worth exploring for the whisky drinker. This brandy is produced in the winemaking regions of Peru and Chile, with both countries claiming it as their national spirit. American consumers tend to be more familiar with Peruvian pisco, as it’s more widely available in the U.S. than its Chilean counterpart. There’s a bit of controversy as to which country can actually claim to be the birthplace of pisco. “I try not to argue on the topic since I’m Peruvian and I may come off as biased,” says Miguel Maruyama, beverage manager for the Doral, Florida-based Centurion Restaurant Group, owner of Peruvian restaurant Pisco y Nazca. “But I’m a firm believer that competition benefits everyone.”

As with whisky, where each country has its own rules and methods of distillation, pisco production differs depending on where it’s made. Pisco from Peru can be made from eight separate grape varietals. The country offers three main pisco types: puro is a single-varietal pisco; acholado is a blend of different varietals or different piscos; and mosto verde is made from crushed grapes (musts) that aren’t fully fermented, thus retaining some of the natural sugars. “Stopping fermentation halfway gives you a complex spirit that’s very aromatic and easy to sip on, and is usually more expensive because it requires more grapes to make,” Maruyama notes.

Like single malt scotch, Peruvian pisco must be distilled in copper pot stills. It’s only distilled one time and distilled to proof—usually between 38% to 48% alcohol by volume (ABV). Chilean pisco can be distilled multiple times, and water is added after distillation to attain the desired proof. In addition, Chilean pisco can be made with 14 separate grape varieties, and is categorized by ABV: Pisco Corriente o Tradicional contains 30% to 35% ABV; Pisco Especial is 35% to 40%; Pisco Reservado is 40%; and Gran Pisco is 43% or higher. Chilean pisco can also be aged—usually in American oak, French oak, or Chilean rauli wood—while Peruvian pisco cannot, though it must rest for a minimum of three months in a nonreactive vessel.

While pisco’s dominant flavor is most often grapes, there are many secondary notes that appeal to whisky enthusiasts—including stone fruits, citrus, fresh-cut grass, cinnamon, vanilla, and in the case of aged Chilean pisco, wood notes. For fans of the Whisky Sour, a Pisco Sour—pisco, lemon juice, simple syrup, egg white, and bitters—is a welcome step in a new but also familiar drinking direction. Prefer a Manhattan? The El Capitán, comprising pisco, sweet and dry vermouths, and bitters, is sure to please. Of course, you can always sip pisco neat or with ice like you would your favorite dram. “I love having conversations about beverages with whisky drinkers because they’re very open-minded and can value a spirit for what it brings to the table,” Maruyama says. “Piscos are complex and have an explosion of aromas—that’s what makes them unique.”

5 Piscos To Try

Barsol Mosto Verde Quebranta Pisco—41.8%, $43
Made from 100% quebranta grapes, this Peruvian pisco has aromas of pastry notes, caramel, butterscotch, red apple, pear, apricot, toasted almonds, and dried fruits, with hints of citrus. On the palate, the aromas are confirmed, along with light herbal notes and honey flavors that a Highland single malt fan will appreciate. The lingering finish introduces cacao, dark chocolate, toasted nuts, and cereal that may draw in a rye whiskey or high-rye bourbon enthusiast.

Capel Moai Reservado Pisco—40%, $27
This Chilean pisco, which is aged in American oak for four to six months, will likely please a rye whiskey fan. Double distilled from muscat, Pedro Ximénez, and torontel grapes, it has fresh fruit aromas with hints of oak that give way to intense spice and fruit flavors balanced by black pepper and wood notes, supporting a long finish.

Caravedo Mosto Verde Pisco—43%, $50
This pisco from Peru comprises quebranta, torontel, italia, and albilla grapes and is rested in stainless steel for at least one year. The nose is fresh, clean, and fruity, with melon, grape, white vanilla, and Honeycrisp apple aromas. On the palate, it’s rich, warming, and full-bodied, with a creamy texture and notes of cinnamon, orange blossom, chocolate, and citrus that a Speyside scotch fan would appreciate.

Control Pisco—40%, $25
Made in Chile from Pedro Jimenez and moscatel grapes, this is the only pisco on the market that is distilled three times in copper alembic stills. A Lowland or blended scotch drinker may be drawn to the fresh, herbaceous aromas with hints of citrus. The mouthfeel is soft, round, and creamy, with a long and clean finish.

Macchu Pisco—40%, $27
Produced by one of Peru’s only female-run distilleries, this contains 100% quebranta grapes and shares some aromas and flavors with Japanese whiskies. On the nose, vanilla, lime peel, and white pepper give way to vanilla sugar, wet cement, lime, yuzu, and cinnamon on the palate, with pepper and some earthiness on the finish.

The post The Whisky Lover’s Guide to Pisco appeared first on Whisky Advocate.

Stylish Travel Bars to Keep Your Whisky and Cocktail Tools Safe and Secure

Pack up your finest equipment and a few of your favorite bottles as well with these high-end carrying cases.

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While road trips and vacations offer a great escape, there may not always be a good bar around. Luckily, you never have to be without your favorite tipples, thanks to these travel bars. Whether you’re going on a weekend camping trip or want to upgrade the minibar in your hotel room, we’ve rounded up several travel bars that are fit for any getaway. There are both casual and sophisticated options—all you have to do is add whisky and your favorite cocktail’s ingredients!

Mobile Mixers: Make Your Cocktails On The Go With These Carrying Cases

Portable Three-Bottle Travel Bar—$100
Secure up to three of your favorite bottles in this locking vinyl case. The suede interior houses basic tools, a serving platter, and two glasses. Add your favorite whiskies, and the cocktail boundaries are limitless.

Bartender’s Backpack—$110
Cocktails to go! This canvas backpack holds four bottles, includes a laptop case, and has straps to secure a bar tool roll-up (sold separately).

Bar Backpack—$232
Perfect for happy hour by the lake! This insulated backpack carries three bottles, and comes equipped with 16 bar tools, including a cheese board and knife.

Leather suitcase carrying cocktail equipment

Protect your Manhattan essentials, including two glasses, in this vintage-looking suitcase.

Manhattan Cocktail Case—$302
Create a classic cocktail from this seemingly vintage suitcase. The leatherette exterior encases a velveteen-lined interior that protects two bottles, and includes a shaker, bar tools, and two glasses. Available in black or mahogany.

Leather Travel Bar—$500
Exclusive to Frontgate, this classy leather case serves up an ice bucket, room for two bottles, a drawer that includes nine cups, and basic tools to serve up your favorite whisky.

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Craft Distillers And Heavy Metal Bands Are Making Whiskeys That Rock

One late August day, members of the heavy metal band GWAR were set to visit Catoctin Creek Distillery. The distillery’s co-founder Scott Harris wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. A fan of Neil Diamond and

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One late August day, members of the heavy metal band GWAR were set to visit Catoctin Creek Distillery. The distillery’s co-founder Scott Harris wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. A fan of Neil Diamond and Barbara Streisand, Harris says he likes easy-listening music, which is about as far away as one could get from the stage antics, graphic imagery, and demonic get-ups of GWAR.

“They were like, ‘Yeah we’ll bring our costumes, we’ll take some pictures.’” Harris says. “And so we were like ‘Okay!’ And not sure what that was going to be like. It was pretty fun.”

Three band members—Mike Derks (Balsac the Jaws of Death, rhythm guitar), Brad Roberts (Jizmak Da Gusha, drums), and Bob Gorman (Bonesnapper, backing vocals)—of the hard rocking, intergalactic artistic collective visited the Purcellville, Virginia distillery to taste whiskey samples for what would become Ragnarök Rye, a new collaborative release from the band and Catoctin Creek. The somewhat unlikely match stems from the band’s history within the state—GWAR is from Virginia and formed at Virginia Commonwealth University in 1984. As they gained worldwide fame, they remained a local success story, eventually opening GWARbar in Richmond in 2014.

“It didn’t seem to me like they were very metal folks, but I think they know about the band and the band’s history,” Michael Bishop, who goes by Blothar and sings lead vocals, said of working with Catoctin Creek. “And not only are they local to Virginia, there are some ways that their organization resonates with GWAR.”

Three people, one in costume, pose in front of a still

Scott Harris (far right) wasn’t sure what to expect when members of GWAR offered to bring their costumes to his Catoctin Creek Distillery but speaks glowingly about the work they’ve done with the band.

This is more than a case of musicians jumping on the celebrity whiskey bandwagon: Heavy metal acts are connecting with craft distillers across the country to create whiskeys that speak to a sense of community and craftsmanship. “It’s a place where a small group of people are extremely dedicated to producing a product. And GWAR is really unique in the world of rock music because it is an artist collective,” Bishop says. “It’s not a lot different. You’ve got people who are working really hard to make something unique at a distillery. And we do the same at our studio in Richmond.”

Ragnarök, whose name was inspired by the same Norse mythology GWAR applies to their band, will be 100% rye finished with maple and cherrywood staves—wood types that are native to the state. “It’s all kind of coming from that Virginia base,” Harris says. The distillery plans to release two 1,000-bottle batches in 2021, and any initial hesitation on Harris’s part has been replaced by unbridled joy. He’s eager to show off the whiskey’s artful packaging (designed by GWAR), and his eyes widen as he describes the custom-sculpted bottle topper. “We’ve seen nothing but exuberance and enthusiasm about this release,” Harris says of fan response to the heavy metal crossover. “It’s obviously not that radical to do it because other people are doing it.”

From Mosh to Mash

Ragnorök Rye joins a list of other heavy metal-themed whiskies released since 2018, when Metallica first announced Blackened, a blend of whiskies “sonically enhanced” with the band’s music. While the whiskey isn’t tied to any one craft distillery, it has relied on the expertise of respected distillers Rob Dietrich, former distiller at Stranahan’s and, before him, the late Dave Pickerell. Blackened was a pacesetter of sorts, relying not just on the band’s cachet to sell the whiskey, but placing a focus on whom they chose to work with in the world of whiskey.

Metallica bassist Rob Trujillo says the band has always embraced new concepts and techniques, and that they apply that same mindset to the whiskey. Each batch of Blackened receives its own playlist—songs that are played to the resting barrels in order to promote vibrational reactions. Collaborating with progressive whiskey makers became a must.

Men pose with rock instruments

After working with Dave Pickerell on their initial launch, Metallica turned to Rob Dietrich (second from right) to be their master blender. (Photo by Danny Clinch)

“To try to even attempt that, you’ve got to have an individual with a certain type of mindset, who sees the practicality and the artistry of that,” says Trujillo. “Dave Pickerell was that person. Rob [Dietrich] obviously is very passionate about whiskey and craft and the whole concept, but he’s also passionate about music and he’s passionate about Metallica and our mindset and how we do things. You need to partner up with people who are like-minded, and that’s what we’ve been able to do.”

Dietrich has been at the helm since 2019, and says the whiskey operation continues to grow. “I’ve been a huge Metallica fan since I was a kid, so for me, it’s really exciting to get to work with them, and see their passion for what we’re doing with the whiskey and their honest excitement about it,” he says. In 2020, the band released a cask-strength version of Blackened. And in 2021, they announced a collaboration with Kentucky’s Willet Distillery, a straight rye that will be the first in their Masters of Whiskey series.

Less than a year after Blackened debuted, Iowa’s Cedar Ridge announced a pair of whiskeys created in collaboration with the band Slipknot. No. 9 Iowa whiskey and No. 9 Reserve are the product of Shawn “Clown” Crahan, the band’s percussionist, exploring his own familial history and relationship with whiskey. The band is from Des Moines, Iowa, and so the partnership, like GWAR’s with Catoctin Creek, was a celebration of regional ties and local craftsmanship. “Being in Iowa and being so close to my home made it feel like something I could work on, hands-on,” Crahan says. “I’m always invited up there. They show me anything I want. They’re willing to teach me anything.”

Cedar Ridge head distiller Murphy Quint says he got the call about Slipknot’s interest in working together just as Dietrich was announced as Blackened’s new whiskey maker. The two, who are friends from their time working together at Stranahan’s, shared a laugh about the timing of it all. “I was really proud of Murphy for working with Slipknot and the way they approach it,” Dietrich says. “It’s important for people to realize that not all celebrity brands are just slapping a label on something and hoping that it’s going to sell.”

A man in a mask signs a whiskey bottle

Bottle signings afford Shawn Crahan of Slipknot, otherwise known as Clown, another avenue to connect with fans.

For Quint and Cedar Ridge, there was a concerted effort to produce a whiskey worthy of Slipknot’s name, one that was different enough from their existing range, which Quint describes as approachable. “It was a really interesting and exciting challenge for our production team to produce something that matched their sound with our whiskey,” Quint says. “I’ve been a fan for quite some time, and I’m even more so now.” The two whiskeys are permanent expressions and share a recipe—a blend of 60% bourbon and 40% rye, both made at Cedar Ridge—the difference being that the No. 9 Reserve comes from a selection of barrels at least 4 years old, and carries a higher price point.

Since connecting with Cedar Ridge, Crahan has fully immersed himself in whiskey knowledge and has taken to studying fermentation, even making his own vinegars at home. “I want to know what’s going on and I want to make it,” he says. “I’m fascinated by every layer of the oil painting known as whiskey.” He speaks longingly about a grandfather he never got to meet, a Belgian who moved to Iowa to work on the North Western Railroad. He imagines the relationship he had with whiskey back then, and it’s an image that has propelled him in this journey. To honor his grandfather, to honor the state’s legacy of corn farming, and to honor his fans with a product he’s proud of: These are the ideas he continues to reinforce with his whiskey. “The mark was, let’s do this right with the right people and make sure our culture gets the right thing,” Crahan says. “And we’ll just keep developing as we go.”

He Came to Rock

In Ancram, New York, Scott Ian, lead guitarist for the band Anthrax, has struck a true friendship with Cathy Franklin and Jeffrey Baker, owners of Hillrock Estate Distillery; it’s a relationship that has produced multiple single barrel releases. Ian didn’t always have a taste for whiskey, relying on rock heavyweights like Motörhead’s Lemmy Kilmister or Pantera’s Dimebag Darrel to give him a crash course. He wasn’t moved by rock’s whiskey basics—glasses of Jack and Coke or shots of Crown Royal—but found Maker’s Mark enjoyable and began tasting with more curiosity, assembling a collection that now includes Blanton’s and Pappy Van Winkle. Years later, Anthrax released single-barrel whiskeys with Jefferson’s Reserve and Knob Creek, but Ian wanted to go deeper. After a 2019 show in Connecticut, he requested a specific flight of whiskeys.

“We’re a New York band, let’s do a whiskey [from] New York state,” he recalls thinking. “I was adamant about choosing a New York distiller.” In a blind tasting of seven or eight samples, Ian picked Hillrock as his favorite. “It’s just so amazing. Literally, I made these friends who are just the most wonderful people—Cathy and Jeffrey and their kids, and they’ve been so unbelievably kind and generous to my family—all based on the fact that that’s the whiskey I chose.”

A guitarist jumps into the air

Scott Ian, lead guitarist for Anthrax, released a number of single barrel whiskeys before striking a friendship with the owners of Hillrock Estate, where he has visited and stated several times. (Photo by Mark Horton/Getty Images)

That tasting led to The Healer, a single-barrel solera-aged bourbon named in honor of Dimebag Darrel’s music and its whiskey influence on the band, released in June 2020. That same summer, Ian and his family were visiting the East Coast, and Franklin invited them to the distillery for a tour, dinner, and drinks. Ian’s crew had such a great time that they extended their trip and stayed at the distillery’s guest house for three weeks at one point. “That’s when I did the barrel tastings, and that’s how I chose Evil Twin 1 and Evil Twin 2,” Ian says of the Double Cask Rye barrel picks. “It’s become more than just putting out a whiskey. We’ve met them and we’ve lived with them and we became very good friends with the family.”

The love goes both ways, as Franklin says she adores Ian, adding that he has a fabulous palate. “The nice thing about Scott, he’s going to distill here,” Franklin says. “He is that sophisticated and passionate about craft whiskey. He was here for part of our harvest. He’s gone through the grain. He really understands it. He could teach a class on Hillrock.”

While the Evil Twin single barrels were hot commodities, selling out fairly quickly, Franklin and Hillrock are far from through. The distillery has worked with other bands, like Motörhead, with more collaborations in the works, and Ian already has barrels earmarked for future releases. He says that he’d like to have a permanent expression, but it would have to make sense for all parties. “Yes, I would love to do that,” he says.

Hitting That Stage

Paul Hletko knows a thing or two about working with musicians. His FEW Spirits in Evanston, Illinois has released whiskeys with The Flaming Lips, Alice in Chains, and as of 2021, Black Rebel Motorcycle Club. “Some people primarily want to have their name on the bottle, other people primarily are huge fans of whiskey and want to be a little bit more intimately involved,” he says. “That desire to create and be a part of it is always going to be at the forefront for musicians.”

That certainly is true for the recent wave of heavy metal releases, but there are additional parallels that may help explain why these all emerged. For one, it is harder than ever for musicians to make money. Streaming has seriously cut into album sales and the pandemic brought touring to a screeching halt. “What better way to find a different income stream than to have it be something that you are passionate about and something that you love just like you love being in a band and making music?” Ian asks. “This is something that I want in my life, and now I want to share it with other people.”

A group of men pose in front of a poster

Paul Hletko (far left) of FEW Spirits has worked with a number of musicians across multiple genres, including The Flaming Lips.

There is no denying the link between hard rock and hard liquor, either. All of these musicians are quick to emphasize responsibility, but acknowledge the role whiskey has played within the genre. “The whole kind of whiskey angle, it’s an important part of rock and roll history,” Trujillo says. For Crahan, pairing whiskey and metal can allow for greater enjoyment of both. “[Drinking] whiskey responsibly just sets that vibration right for that thing that is very known in aggressive music,” he says. “I think they go hand in hand.”

Also consider, many of these hard rockers are well into their 50s. They are more interested in savoring a moment than in partying it away. “You kind of realize, if you’re going to stay in the game long enough, you have to take time to enjoy things,” Bishop says. “At least, in some sense, it’s a survival mechanism. People slow down and find something that they can enjoy.”

Trujillo, once known as the Whiskey Warlord when he was playing with Ozzy Osbourne, recalls a night before he joined Metallica when he and drummer Lars Ulrich bonded over drinks until early morning, a test of sorts to see if he could hang. Now he views whiskey differently. “Probably nowadays my experience with whiskey is more centered around soothing and relaxation than like bouncing off the walls and going in the slam pit,” he says.

It is perhaps a harsh reality that rock stars grow old, but for these musicians, whiskey making is just another form of creative expression. Ingredients are like instruments, coming together to make something beautiful. “Distilling a batch is much like writing a song,” Ian says. “All the work that goes into it to get to the finished product. Writing, recording, mixing a song. Same thing as far as harvesting, distilling, bottling; everything that goes into a small batch craft bourbon. There’s so much passion and so much creativity in both things.”

Doubters can bemoan the influx of celebrity whiskeys and question their intention, but these craft distillers are highly enthusiastic about working on the whiskeys, and are looking to develop new expressions and messaging that grows these brands in unexpected ways. “It’s a trend we’re really excited about, and we hope it continues,” Quint says. “I think any growth in the world of whiskey is good for all these distilleries in general. So hopefully it continues. We all appreciate metal, that’s for sure.”

And that’s where these whiskeys stand out: There is a mutual appreciation and respect and the recognition that, together, they can tell a story that rings true to both band and distillery. “You introduce band fans to your whiskey brand, but also introduce fans of your whiskey brand to the musicians,” Hletko says. “Ideally, it cuts both ways. Everybody should win when you do these things.”

Rock Worthy Whiskeys

Blackened Cask Strength (Batch 106)—55.35%, $55
Band: Metallica
Collaborator: Rob Dietrich
Score: 91 points
What’s inside: A blend of straight whiskies, including Tennessee bourbon, Kentucky bourbon, Indiana rye, Indiana bourbon, and Canadian rye, finished in black brandy casks and sonically enhanced with different Metallica playlists
Availability: Limited, with additional batches planned. The regular blend is widely available

Ragnarök Rye—46%, $99
Band: GWAR
Collaborator: Catoctin Creek
Score: 87
What’s inside: 100% rye whiskey (Hazlet, Brasetto, and Ryman strains), finished with sugar maple and cherrywood
Availability: Limited, with two batches totaling about 1,000 bottles each

No. 9 Iowa Whiskey—45%, $40
Band: Slipknot
Collaborator: Cedar Ridge
Score:
87
What’s inside: A blend of 60% straight bourbon (74% corn, 14% malted rye, 12% 2-row malted barley) and 40% straight rye (51% malted rye, 34% rye, 12% corn, 3% 2-row malted barley), aged for 3 to 4 years
Availability: Both the No. 9 Iowa Whiskey and No. 9 Reserve are widely available

Evil Twin 1 Single Barrel Double Cask Rye—60.05%, $160
Band: Anthrax
Collaborator: Hillrock Estate
Score: Not Rated
What’s inside: 100% rye whiskey, first aged in new #3 char American oak barrels, then moved to new #4 char American oak barrels
Availability: 238 bottles, all sold out, though the band has since released a follow up and has future single barrel picks planned

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4 Foolproof Whisky and Luxardo Maraschino Cocktails

The Italian cherry liqueur naturally complements whisky in beautifully balanced cocktails such as the Brooklyn.

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With many whiskies presenting lovely stone-fruit qualities, it’s no wonder that the spirit pairs so nicely with Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, which exudes bright aromas and flavors of the marasca cherry distillate, along with roasted nuts, dark chocolate, vanilla, and orange marmalade. The liqueur has been made the same way since its inception in 1821: The leaves, pits, stems, and skins of marasca cherries infuse in larch wood vats for three years, it’s then distilled in copper pot stills, and matured in ash wood vats for a year, with simple syrup added before bottling.

“Luxardo Maraschino is round, rich, and floral, with hints of marzipan, and it mixes well with whiskies across the spectrum in slightly different ways,” says Eryn Reece, head bartender at Banzarbar in New York City. “It can hold its own with the generally higher proof and big barrel notes of vanilla and toffee that often characterize American whiskeys, but its fruit and nut notes also beautifully underscore the subtler flavors of scotch and Irish whiskey.”

Luxardo Maraschino has different functions in a cocktail, Reece adds. “Because of its concentrated flavor, it can be used in a ¾-ounce measure all the way down to just 1 or 2 dashes,” she says. “When I’m building a whisky drink that’s heading in a heavy-handed direction with too much of what I call ‘bass note’ flavors, I reach for Luxardo Maraschino—it helps balance that bass with a strident treble note.”

4 Balanced Whisky and Luxardo Maraschino Cocktails

Sound & Vision: 1 ½ oz. Islay scotch + ½ oz. Luxardo Maraschino + ¾ oz. Aperol + ¾ oz. lemon juice + grapefruit peel for garnish
Shake all ingredients vigorously with ice. Strain into a coupe and garnish with a grapefruit peel.
Created by Eryn Reece

Fancy Free: 2 ¼ oz. bourbon + ½ oz. Luxardo Maraschino + 2 dashes orange bitters + 2 dashes Angostura bitters + orange peel for garnish
Stir all ingredients together with ice 10 to 12 times. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over fresh ice and garnish with an orange peel.
From “Crosby Gaige’s Cocktail Guide and Ladies’ Companion”

Brooklyn: 2 oz. rye whiskey + 1 tsp. Luxardo Maraschino + ¾ oz. dry vermouth + ¼ oz. Bigallet China-China liqueur + lemon peel for garnish
Stir all ingredients together with ice for 20 to 30 seconds. Strain into a coupe or Martini glass and garnish with a lemon peel.
Adapted by Eryn Reece from “Harry Johnson’s Bartenders’ Manual”

Earl Green: 2 oz. green tea-infused Irish whiskey* + ½ oz. Luxardo Maraschino + ¾ oz. dry vermouth + lemon peel for garnish
Stir all ingredients together with ice 10 to 12 times. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over fresh ice and garnish with a lemon peel.
Created by Eryn Reece
*Add 4 green tea bags to 750 ml of Irish whiskey and infuse for 30 minutes. Strain and squeeze remaining liquid out of tea bags.

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The Best Whiskies You’re Not Drinking

Expand your mind and your palate with these overlooked styles including Japanese rice whisky, single grain, and more.

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The most popular whisky types—scotch, bourbon, rye, and others—dominate the discussion. But there’s a world of overlooked whisky styles out there, just waiting to be discovered. They’re made with unusual mashbills, barrel finishes, and even creative flavorings. So break out of your comfort zone, and explore the far side of whisky appreciation. Here’s our guide for whisky lovers who choose to travel off the beaten path.

Drink Me: Rice Whisky From Japan

Japanese rice whisky is actually barrel-aged rice shochu—as opposed to unaged shochu that enjoys huge mainstream popularity in Japan—and is mostly produced in the country’s southernmost main island of Kyushu. These esoteric whiskies present a fascinating style, not least because their production method is so unusual.

“The foundation of rice whisky is the ko-ji kin,” explains Shigeruriku Fukano-san, fifth-generation distiller at Fukano Distillery, a family-run operation in the city of Hitoyoshi on Kyushu Island. The ko-ji kin are spores of an Aspergillus mold that convert the rice’s starches into sugar prior to fermentation—a process similar to malting barley in Scotland. There’s a 500-year history of its use in this area of Japan.

Shochu makers select their rice based on grain size conformity, firmness, and starch content. “Once the rice is steamed, you add the ko-ji kin to it, and then you need skill to help it spread,” advises Fukano-san. Fermentation requires two to three weeks—far longer than in Scotland, where it usually takes two to five days. Shochu is single-distilled, and Fukano uses steam-heated stainless steel stills to produce shochu at 43% to 44% alcohol. “The shape of the stills varies from distiller to distiller,” says Fukano-san. “Everyone has their own philosophy.”

The maturation period, along with an alcohol by volume (ABV) of at least 40%, is where these products come to meet the definition of whisky. The spirit takes on new flavor characteristics and color as it matures in casks that are typically sherry, French wine, and virgin Japanese oak. Aging is more rapid in the early years of the process, though Fukano-san believes the spirit never reaches peak maturation—even after 15 or 20 years. “The process of maturation is still taking place, just at a slower speed,” he says.

Three bottles of japanese whisky

Rice whisky has a long tradition of production in Japan and offers drinkers a whole new style of whisky. (Photo by Jeff Harris)

A short drive from Fukano is Ohishi Distillery, a rice whisky producer near the village of Mizukami, where sixth-generation master distiller Kazunori Oishi touts the delicate notes achieved by the liquid in maturation. “Rice whisky has Japanese character in both its flavor and aroma—it’s subtle, like whisky from mizunara barrels,” he says. “Some people might think it lacks a strong punch, but I think its delicate flavors are graceful compared to spirits such as bourbon.” The distillery plants gohyakumanishi rice to meet around 30% of its production needs, grown organically, with koi swimming in the channels to stop weeds from growing. “Our own rice is better quality than other rice, so we’re able to create better umami and flavors in the shochu,” says Oishi-san. “By using water from the Kuma River and growing our own rice, we create shochu that expresses the region.” This is Japanese terroir, captured in a grain of rice.

Walking into the stillhouse, Oishi-san explains how creating the first moromi (the fermenting mixture) takes five days, and the second takes 12 days. He removes his shoes before entering this spotlessly clean space, which is dominated by a hulking five-ton still—a stainless steel colossus that seems at odds with the delicacy of this spirit. The still employs indirect steam heating for vacuum distillation, and produces a lighter shochu with aromas of bananas and apples—ideal for drawing out flavors once it’s in the cask.

Inside Ohishi’s insulated warehouse, aging takes place mostly in sherry and brandy casks from Spain, along with some mizunara and sakura (cherrywood) casks from Japan. Oishi-san shows off his pride and joy: a magnificent 75 year old sherry cask filled with 27 year old rice whisky. With the new-make spirit starting the aging process at 45% ABV, maturation occurs differently than in Scotland, where barrels are typically filled at 63.5%. “Because of that, aging takes place more slowly, which I think is more balanced,” Oishi-san explains. He also notes that the spirit doesn’t get particularly woody over time. “If you leave it for 6 months or a year, it develops color, but no umami or sweetness,” he says. “Over the next 3 to 5 years you start to see more aging characteristics, and after 8 to 10 years you get more umami and flavor.” I confess my admiration for the Ohishi Sakura Cask expression, a rice whisky aged in sherry casks for 5 years, then finished for 2 years in casks made from locally harvested sakura. Oishi-san likens its aromas and flavors to sakura mochi cake—a rice cake wrapped in a salt-marinated sakura leaf. Sakura casks are unique to Japan, just like the flavors of these elegant whiskies.

Japanese Whiskies to Try
Ohishi Sakura Cask—93 points, $90
Cherry lozenge, strawberry, and white pepper

Fukano 12 year old Single Cask (No. 55)—90 points, $120
Spice, blueberry muffin, cola candy, rich fruit

Kikori—90 points, $48
Lychee, pea shoots, piquant spice

Give Grain a Go

Grain whisky, typically made from wheat or corn, is primarily used to create blended whiskies in Scotland, Ireland, and Japan, but it also has remarkable flavor potential on its own. Having reviewed more than 1,000 whiskies for the Buying Guide, grain whiskies constantly surprise me. They’re produced in large-scale industrial distilleries that lack the romance of their more rural single malt counterparts. While the big companies have launched grain expressions like Haig Club, Chita, and Girvan Patent Still, smaller players like Compass Box and independent bottlers have also played a vital role in making grain whiskies visible. Robin Tucek, managing director of Blackadder International, a family-run independent bottler, has recently released two 32 year old single grain whiskies from Cambus and Invergordon. “It doesn’t matter whether it’s a malt or grain cask,” Tucek argues. “If it’s really good and jumps out at you, it’s good to bottle.”

Three bottles of grain whisky

Typically used for blends, grain whiskies are a must try for curious whisky drinkers. (Photo by Jeff Harris)

To heighten the sense of adventure, the Blackadder Raw Cask releases have cask sediment at the bottom of each bottle—they’re the snow globes of whisky. “When opening a bottle, tip it upside down and tap it a couple of times and then let it settle for a minute before pouring,” Tucek recommends. Bars in Japan will even ask customers if they want a tea strainer for the sediment when they get to the end of the bottle. Tucek devised Raw Cask to present whisky in its purest form, and he argues that his methods go beyond those of most producers, who include the non-chill filtered designation on the label. “The whole point is to retain the maximum possible flavor from the cask,” he says. “The more you filter a whisky, the more you remove the oils and the fats, and thereby the flavors, from the spirit.”

If you’ve never sampled grain whisky, you might be unsure about what to expect. “There’s a certain type of sweetness in grain whisky that’s worth discovering,” explains Tucek. “Our recent Invergordon has earthy, sweet charred oak and malty caramel on the nose, but the taste is soft and rich. The char, natural caramel, and fruit are delicate but full, before a finish of soft tannins, delicate woodiness, and fruit.”

Grain Whisky to Try
Blackadder Raw Cask 32 year old 1988 (Distilled at Invergordon)—94 points, $250
Fruit syrup, lush sweet caramel, baked apricot

Teeling Single Grain—91 points, $50
Rhubarb, Brazil nut, licorice, star anise

Compass Box Hedonism—88 points, $120
Vanilla essence, baked apple, spicy finish

Alternative Cut

Whisky connoisseurs tend to eschew expressions with any sort of flavored taste profile. But don’t dismiss them entirely—some warrant consideration, and even respect. At FEW Spirits, founder and self-confessed coffee lover Paul Hletko had long been working on combining coffee and whiskey in different ways. His first attempt, FEW Chameleon, was a bourbon finished in a barrel that was seasoned with cold-brew coffee. It had discernible coffee flavors that Hletko loved, but he was less enamored with the contrivance and authenticity of the coffee-cask seasoning. Next, he brought a barrel-aged gin down to proof with cold-brew coffee: “It was really cool, but it didn’t drink like gin; it drank like an amaro, and nobody understood what to do with it.” Hletko decided to try the same trick with whiskey, and FEW Cold Cut bourbon was born.

Three bottles of flavored whisky

Flavored whiskeys don’t have to be sweet and artificial. Some combine flavors to create something similar to a bottled cocktail. (Photo by Jeff Harris)

It’s a drink to enjoy neat, over ice, or as the heart of a Manhattan, Old Fashioned, or Boulevardier, where the bitterness from the Campari and sweetness from the vermouth go well with the coffee. Does that make it a flavored whiskey? “It is and it isn’t,” Hletko shrugs. “Think about it more like a bottled cocktail. People really like it, but there are a large number who say they can’t possibly drink flavored whiskey. I’m sorry you feel that way, but you’re kind of missing out.”

Hletko next took the same approach with tea. On FEW Immortal rye, the herbaceous notes of the cold-extracted 8 Immortals oolong tea complement the rye spiciness. “One of the main tasting notes of FEW rye is the jammy stone fruit, along with plums, pears, and cherries,” Hletko explains. “With the tea, we get tropical fruits on top of that: mango, papaya, and dragon fruit, as well as some tannin.” Unlike cold-brew coffee, cold-extracted tea is not commercially available, so FEW Spirits steeps the tea for 24 hours, strains it, then proofs the whiskey with it—full integration takes four to eight weeks. This maximizes fruitiness, with a moderately tannic backbone, while controlling astringency.

While drinkers make up their minds, Hletko already has his favorite, “I love FEW Cold Cut bourbon, but as a drinker, I think Immortal rye might dust it. So judge it on its own merits, without any preconceived notions of what flavored whiskey is.”

Flavored Whiskeys to Try
Jameson Cold Brew—90 points, $25
Nutty coffee beans, dark fruits, praline

FEW Immortal Rye—87 points, $45
Grapes, cocoa powder, licorice tea

Basil Hayden’s Dark Rye—84 points, $40
Vanilla essence, baked apple, spicy finish

Next-Gen Finishing

Finishing is the process of transferring mature whisky to a secondary cask to enhance its flavor profile. The technique was pioneered by Balvenie and Glenmorangie using wine and sherry casks. But we’re now seeing a second wave in finishing—one that’s producing a more eclectic range of whiskies by employing barrels made from chestnut and cherrywood to casks that previously held tequila, mezcal, vermouth, calvados, and more.

“We’re lucky with the regulations here in Ireland,” says Midleton Distillery’s master blender Billy Leighton. Since the Irish Whiskey Act simply requires maturation in wooden casks, though not exclusively oak, it’s leading to exciting developments. Midleton set out to procure casks from cooperages willing to supply barrels raised from alternative woods. Its vanguard range, Method & Madness, promotes next-gen finishing and includes a French chestnut-finished single pot still Irish whiskey, a must-try for the intrepid tippler in search of new flavor experiences. “I love the effect that the chestnut imparts on the whiskey,” remarks Leighton, who finds the wood and pot-still style complement each other well. The properties of the sweet chestnut (Castanea sativa) casks favor faster maturation: The air-seasoned wood has a lower density and higher porosity than oak. With its higher levels of vanillin and furfural, chestnut wood imparts more chocolate, caramel, and sweetness than American oak, though blenders have learned to use it judiciously to strike a fine balance with the distillate’s character.

Three cask finished whiskies

While cask finishing has been around for decades, whisky makers are getting more creative and exploring a range of possibilities. (Photo by Jeff Harris)

“It was probably the first time anyone had used something other than oak,” says Leighton, who feared some people might grumble that it wasn’t in the spirit of the regulations. “We did expect a bit of pushback on it, but it was within regulations, and once we put it out there people loved it.” Now, distilleries around the world are experimenting with a greater diversity of cask-finishing than ever before: Get ready for more.

Next-Gen Finishing to Try
Yoichi Apple Brandy Barrel-Finished—93 points, $250
Apples in sugar, iced chocolate cake, smoke

Method & Madness French Chestnut-Finished Single Pot Still—92 points, $90
Toasted cedar, spruce, spice, pecans, bright lemon

Dewar’s 8 year old Ilegal Smooth Mezcal Cask-Finished—87 points, $22
Zested limes, herbal notes, chile flakes

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