Author: Steve Coomes

Pinhook Vertical Series Rye 8-Year Review

Upon arrival, the proofs of those 32 barrels were 125. Near that modest body of water and behind the rickhouse’s brick walls, they’ve steadily lost proof down to 108, which is pure magic in whiskey aging.

Pinhook Vertical Series Rye 8-Year Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Any and all rye whiskey lovers and bourbon lovers who aren't yet sold on rye.

WORTH THE PRICE: Yes, but I'm partial not only to rye, but also to Pinhook's stable of great and increasingly well-aged ryes.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle, but at $85, but who could blame you if you sought out a bar pour first?

OVERALL: So many whiskey stories are pure hokum, but the tale behind the Pinhook is great. Some of its partners actually work in the horse industry–two are pinhookers, meaning they spy ability and talent early on in a colt's life; and they also maintain horse racing bloodstock for well-heeled buyers. The story also points to the partners' ability to pick good, young barrels required to launch the brand almost a decade ago. It's always nice to see a story's realism and symbolism blend this nicely.

Sean Josephs, Pinhook's master blender and cofounder, operated two whiskey-centric restaurants in New York City, and one in New Orleans, well before bourbon fully boomed. Unlike some Level 2 sommeliers, he wasn't wedded only to wine. He understood and loved American whiskey, saw its star rising and wanted to surf that amber wave as a blender and owner. He now spends more time in Kentucky's horse country than ever anticipated, tasting Pinhook's original sourced MGP stocks and whiskeys distilled for the brand at Castle & Key Distillery since 2017. Coincidentally, that distillery is almost equidistant between Keeneland Racecourse and Churchill Downs, two legendary horse racing venues if you're unfamiliar with the sport.

I've spent several hours with Josephs watching him taste, eliminate and combine whiskey samples into blends that become Pinhook releases. The process has always been strategic and transparent, yet still baffling to me despite his patient explanations. No matter, though, because however he does it, it comes out terrific.

So many Pinhook releases are much younger than this 8-year-old, but their complexity belies their youth. Pinhook whiskeys often get too little credit for demonstrating how great younger whiskey can be when it's well-managed and blended skillfully.

Upon arrival, those 32 barrels' proofs were 125. Near that modest body of water and behind the rickhouse's brick walls, they've steadily lost proof down to 108, which is pure magic in whiskey aging.

For readers who've been to Castle & Key, you know of the ancient, 538-foot long rickhouse positioned near the flat bank of Glenn's Creek. That's where these MGP barrels have aged since their rehoming in 2015. Upon arrival, those 32 barrels' proofs were 125. Near that modest body of water and behind the rickhouse's brick walls, they've steadily lost proof down to 108, which is pure magic in whiskey aging.

The result of that lazy and luxurious rest is a rye whose nose is flush with green apples, mint, black pepper, anise and dark caramel. (Josephs describes the nose as "a walk through the forest during autumn.") On the palate, it's even more inviting: a Demerara-syrup-like body invigorated by black pepper, baking spice–clove in particular–bruleed sugar, charred oak, white chocolate and mint.

This is a seriously good rye, and using this in a proper mint julep would be decadent. But hey, the Kentucky Derby is 9 days away as I write this, so that drink is likely entrenched in my subconscious right now. Because of this review, my sample is gone. Time to find a bottle.

BRAND NOTES

This is the fifth release in Pinhook’s award-winning Vertical Series as well as the debut of newly designed packaging that perfectly blends tradition and modernity. Blended from just 32 barrels and bottled unfiltered at cask strength, the 8 Year offers a bright nose of orange zest, green apple, caramel, and cinnamon; leading to an intricate palate of licorice, burnt sugar, cedar, and clove.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Mezcal Amarás Logia Cenizo Review

“Logia is an ode to the unattainable, the select and the rare, perfectly defining our agaves and their importance as a sacred plant. Its limited and collectible editions are specially selected for those who love to discover, in sips, details that move the soul”

Mezcal Amarás Logia Cenizo Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

  • DISTILLER: Mezcal Amarás
  • MASH BILL: 14-year-old wild cenizo agave (agave durangensis)
  • AGE: None
  • YEAR: 2021
  • PROOF: 86 (43% ABV)
  • MSRP: $89.99 USD ($1,490 Mexican Pesos)
  • BUY ONLINE: Buy at Mezcal Amarás store

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Anyone interested in agave spirits.

WORTH THE PRICE: Absolutely, and arguably worth more.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle

OVERALL: Usually I lead with my observations, but this time, I think a little translation with the brand's help is a good thing.

"Logia is an ode to the unattainable, the select and the rare, perfectly defining our agaves and their importance as a sacred plant. Its limited and collectible editions are specially selected for those who love to discover, in sips, details that move the soul”.

Compare that to the no-frills mentions of “corn, rye and barley” descriptions in bourbon, right?

Cenizo is the word used to describe the ashen appearance of the agave durangensis, which grows wildly in the Mexican state of Durango. Cenizo also is a nickname for this specific agave plant, which can grow to 1,100 pounds! By comparison, the largest of blue Weber agaves used in tequila weigh about 150 pounds.

If you've never seen mezcal production, it's all done by hand. Not marketing-speak "by hand," but literally by humans. Dismantling an 1,100 pound agave for transportation is one thing, but positioning it onto a blazing hot rock pit for roasting is another matter. This is brutal work.

Now, to the spirit. Warmed cheddar cheese greets the nose followed by charred green pepper, Granny Smith apple peels, eucalyptus, petrichor, white pepper, lemon zest and tamarind. I could go on, but won’t. Just know that it’s busy and that’s fun.

It is rich, viscous and soft on the palate, high in minerality (from the the region's dry volcanic soil) and leaves just a wisp of smoke from roasting in a conical oven over volcanic stones heated by mesquite and huiscahe woods. A second pass serves up lemon-meringue-like tartness, tingly with white pepper and ever firmly grounded in mineral notes. It’s a treat to roll around the mouth and savor that silken-tingly texture before moving it down the hatch for a delicate and slightly dry finish.

This is a terrific spirit in every respect. To those who think mezcal is all smoke and burned rubber, this isn't that at all. The agave is on display here, as is the distiller's skill to render the plant's character more than the way it was cooked. For anyone hoping to step into mezcal, this is a great starting point. No cocktail buffer needed, just sip it neat. Embrace the delicate funk, wait for sour tart fruits and petrichor to show up and you'll be rewarded handsomely.

BRAND NOTES

Amarás Logia Cenizo keeps a balance between smoky and citric aromas on the nose, to bold and intense hints of roasted coffee beans.

Handcrafted with a 14-year-old wild agave scientifically known as a A. durangensis. It is crafted using a particular artisanal recipe that starts with the use of local mesquite and huisache wood when cooked.

It is then naturally fermented in rectangular vats buried at ground level to maintain a stable temperature because of the extreme climate in Durango.

Its fermentation is 100% natural, in rectangular vats at ground level, maintaining a stable temperature.

  • On the nose: A refined hint of citrus fruits combined with earthy and smoky notes.
  • On the palate: A bold and intense roasted coffee bean flavor.
  • Finish: A touch wooden zest with a trace of sweet raisins.

Founded in 2010 by Santiago Suarez and Luis Niño de Rivera, Mezcal Amarás’ founding principal is to produce the highest quality mezcals as sustainably as possible – it is the world’s first carbon neutral mezcal company, harvesting a variety of cultivated and wild agaves and planting 10 agaves for each one harvested. Handcrafted by the best Maestros Mezcaleros from three mezcal regions in Mexico: Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Durango, each bottle of Mezcal Amarás contains the rich history of traditional mezcal production. Additionally, 20% of the net sale of each bottle is allocated to the development of internal initiatives associated with social and environmental responsibility, as well as ensuring mezcaleros are paid a fair price and receive educational courses and business training.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Maker’s Mark Bourbon recognizing ‘Spirited Women’ with Personalized, Limited-Edition Label for consumers

LORETTO, Ky.–Maker’s Mark announced its support of Vital Voices, a leading nonprofit investing in female leaders taking on the world’s greatest challenges, with a limited-edition label designed by renowned artist Gayle Kabaker. In honor of Women’s History Month, consumers

Maker's Mark Bourbon recognizing 'Spirited Women' with Personalized, Limited-Edition Label for consumers

LORETTO, Ky.–Maker's Mark announced its support of Vital Voices, a leading nonprofit investing in female leaders taking on the world's greatest challenges, with a limited-edition label designed by renowned artist Gayle Kabaker. In honor of Women's History Month, consumers are invited to order the complimentary Maker's Mark label at makersmarkpersonalize.com and personalize it with the name of an inspirational woman in their lives.

"Vital Voices is thrilled to join Maker's Mark in this collaboration to amplify the power of women," said Alyse Nelson, president and CEO of Vital Voices. "We deeply appreciate their support in our mission to advance women leaders and our world."

Gayle Kabaker, a longstanding partner of Vital Voices, has a history of creating art that showcases women who use their power to empower others and was inspired to illuminate the organization with Maker's Mark.  Kabaker's limited-edition label depicts her interpretation of a spirited woman in acrylic gouache, inspired by the wildflowers of Kentucky and the colors of the Maker's Mark palette. 

"As a brand co-founded by my grandmother Margie Samuels more than 70 years ago, Maker's Mark continues to be guided and grown by incredible women defining what's next in the industry," said Rob Samuels, managing director of Maker's Mark and 8th generation whisky maker. "We are privileged to continue our commitment to women making an impact in their communities and support the meaningful causes that drive Vital Voices."

Maker's Mark Bourbon recognizing 'Spirited Women' with Personalized, Limited-Edition Label for consumers

While Bill Samuels, Sr., Margie's husband and Maker's Mark co-founder, was focused on creating the highest-quality bourbon, he celebrated and empowered Margie to build the brand and brand experience – forever changing the course of spirits branding in the industry.  The shape of the bottle, the look of the label, the signature red wax topper, and even the name are all thanks to Margie. Among the first women to be inducted into the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame, Margie also championed the importance of the Kentucky distillery's aesthetic and emphasis on tourism, planting the seed for what is now the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.

The ongoing contributions of women at Maker's Mark can be seen in all aspects of the brand, from the product development and leadership of Star Hill Farm, the home of the Maker's Mark Distillery, to the brand's sustainability initiatives and global brand representation. While staying true to the founders' flavor vision: a full-flavored, soft red winter wheat bourbon with a smooth finish, Maker's Mark continues to shape the brand's future through purposeful, flavor-driven innovation.

Throughout the year, consumers can create a custom Maker's Mark gift for anyone with the brand's personalized label program. Labels are currently available for 750mL bottles, which must be purchased separately and recipients must be 21+. For additional information about Maker's Mark, please visit  www.MakersMark.com and share your personalized label at @makersmark on Instagram.

Frey Ranch Farm Strength Cut Straight Bourbon Whiskey Review

This is an entertaining pour that punches, ducks and dodges around the mouth, delivering sharp blows of spice to keep you on your toes.

Frey Ranch Farm Strength Cut Straight Bourbon Whiskey Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

  • DISTILLER: Frey Ranch Distillery
  • MASH BILL:  66.6% Corn | 10% Winter Wheat | 11.4% Winter Rye | 12% Two-Row Malted Barley
  • AGE: 5 years
  • YEAR: 2023
  • PROOF: 122.28 (61.14% ABV)
  • MSRP: $79
  • BUY ONLINE: Shop Frey Ranch

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Any whiskey fan, especially fans of higher proofs.

WORTH THE PRICE: Indeed it is.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle. But since it's not available everywhere, bar if you can find it.

OVERALL: The nose on this is akin to opening every baking spice jar in your kitchen drawer: nutmeg, clove, cinnamon–lots of cinnamon–whole allspice ... you name it. Wait a bit and star anise and, strangely enough, limoncello join in. Its aromas beg for tasting this with an oatmeal, ginger or molasses cookie.

And speaking of molasses and ginger, both race out of the gate on the first sip followed by a hum of unsweetened cocoa, oak and stewed stone fruits. If you let it linger in your mouth—no mean feat given the proof—you'll be rewarded with even darker dried fruits like fig and raisin.

This is an entertaining pour that punches, ducks and dodges around the mouth, delivering sharp blows of spice to keep you on your toes. I haven't made a cocktail with this yet, but it'll be fun to let it wrestle some rich demerara into submission. This a bourbon with a bellicose character; an MMA fighter in a glass. I like it a lot!

BRAND NOTES

Every time we blend a small batch of our flagship four-grain bourbon, we taste it at cask strength before we “proof it down” to our signature 90 proof. We always fall in love with the uncut flavor, now you can too with the addition of this “Farm Strength” version of our flagship bourbon. Each batch will now feature both our signature 90 proof and this “uncut” expression. We named it “Farm Strength”, inspired by how we like to enjoy our whiskey on the ranch. As with all our whiskeys, this one is made from 100% grains grown on the Frey Ranch. Try them side-by-side for the best tasting experience!

Tasting Notes: Robust notes of caramelized bruleé, with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg. On the palate, the whiskey opens with birthday cake frosting, glazed butter cake, cloves, orange creamsicle, and dried stone fruit. The finish delivers a sublime yet subtle hint of smoke and black cherry.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Frey Ranch Straight Bourbon Whiskey

In this age of “high proof only,” it’s easy to overlook 90 proof whiskey and the sensibility of its virtues. It’s lush and delicate, fruity and appropriately woody for its age. It needs no ice or water or cocktail; just take it straight.

Frey Ranch Straight Bourbon Whiskey

BOTTLE DETAILS

  • DISTILLER: Frey Ranch Distillery
  • MASH BILL: 66.6% Corn | 10% Winter Wheat | 11.4% Winter Rye | 12% Two-Row Malted Barley
  • AGE: 5 years old
  • YEAR: 2023
  • PROOF: 90 proof (45% ABV)
  • MSRP: $52.99
  • BUY ONLINE: Shop Frey Ranch

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Any whiskey lover.

WORTH THE PRICE: Most definitely.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle.

OVERALL: There's a lot of corn goodness going on in the nose: creamed corn, caramel corn and, hate it or not, candy corn. Despite their small portions of the mashbill, rye and wheat push through firmly. (Anyone who's been to a grain silo operation can relate to this rush of grain notes.) I don't know what Frey Ranch does to its barrels, but the wood gives this whiskey such pleasant notes of creme caramel and butterscotch.

Corn, caramel and rye come immediately to center palate before trailing off into sweet and biscuity notes of wheat and barley. In this age of "high proof only," it's easy to overlook 90 proof whiskey and the sensibility of its virtues. It's lush and delicate, fruity and appropriately woody for its age. It needs no ice or water or cocktail; just take it straight.

The finish is pristinely clean and bereft of dryness, which makes this so easy to drink. I sometimes hear the word "sessionable" lifted from beer circles by whiskey drinkers, and it's appropriate here. This is delicious enough to maintain a drinker's interest while low enough in proof to maintain one's wits over a long evening of careful sipping.

BRAND NOTES

Frey Ranch Four Grain Straight Bourbon Whiskey is 100% sustainably grown, malted, distilled, matured, and bottled on the Frey Ranch in Fallon, Nevada for consistently high quality as a point of pride. Aged for an average of five years, this 90-proof bourbon is smooth yet complex with oak and citrus aromas followed by vanilla, caramel, banana chips, and dried hay on the palate. With a mash bill of non-GMO corn, winter cereal rye, winter wheat, and two-row barley-malted on-site, this is a flavorful bourbon that can easily be enjoyed on its own, yet also holds up in any whiskey-based cocktail.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Frey Ranch Straight Rye Whiskey Review

The nose is grain and barrel forward; the former light, citrusy, spicy and a little candied; the latter toasty and lightly charred with some smoldering campfire. It’s really pleasant to sniff and suss out new aromas.

Frey Ranch Straight Rye Whiskey Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Any whiskey lover, but especially rye lovers looking for something without the usual (but always welcome) mint and dill notes.

WORTH THE PRICE: Yes.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle

OVERALL: There's always a lot to like about ground-to-glass estate stories like Frey Ranch Distillery's. Fifth-generation farmers Colby and Ashley Frey grow, distill and bottle the grains on their 1,500-acre Fallon, Nevada, ranch. They call themselves "whiskey farmers," which is admittedly charming.

Situated in lowlands outside of Reno, the land is ideal for agriculture, particularly cereal grains. Still, it's almost 4,000 feet above sea level, an altitude at which grain gets an intense dose of UV rays. Farmers working such lands believe that exposure stresses grain in ways that grain planted in lower altitudes isn't. At night, those highlands fields cool off quickly in the dry air, which is easier on plants, they say, than the dense summer evening humidity of Indiana, Kentucky and Tennessee. Bottom line: Grain from such areas tastes appreciably different, especially in whiskeys like this one.

The nose is grain and barrel forward; the former light, citrusy, spicy and a little candied; the latter toasted and lightly charred with some smoldering campfire. It's really pleasant to sniff and suss out new aromas in this ... like cocoa powder, Fig Newton cookies and wildflowers. Mute the TV or go to a quiet place to give it the focus it deserves.

The palate isn't overly complex, but that's not a criticism. It's a little syrupy, modestly sweet but with grain notes on the heels of it all. Close your mouth and exhale through your nose and the ground rye really comes to life. If there were ever such a thing as rye pastry, this is surely how it would taste. White pepper and a little cardamom comingle with vanilla pudding in the long, warm and delicate finish. It drinks so much softer than a lot of bottled-in-bond whiskeys ... dare I call it sophisticated? Not a coarse note to be found anywhere. It's also handy in a Sazerac cocktail.

BRAND NOTES

Frey Ranch Bottled-In-Bond Straight Rye Whiskey is made with 100% Winter Cereal Rye, aged for a minimum of five years and bottled at 100 proof. This whiskey is smooth enough to sip, yet spicy enough to shine in a cocktail. Frey Ranch Straight Rye Whiskey is recognized with a Double Gold medal from the San Francisco World Spirit Competition, which is a true recognition of the high-quality Rye grown right here on the Frey Ranch.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Santo Fino Anejo Tequila Review

Santo Fino Anejo isn’t bad, but it’s bland.

Santo Fino Anejo Tequila Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: People who like "smooth" and bland tequila.

WORTH THE PRICE: No.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bust.

OVERALL: On the nose, it's lightly herbal, piney, the faintest hit of caramel and a little bit of alcohol burn are the only fireworks. For a 2-year-old tequila, its aromas are surprisingly muted. On the palate is some cooked agave, roasted pineapple, caramel and good body. A second sip brings in some candied pineapple and sugary pastry. This is an easy sipper, soft and round, but its short on memorable flavors, surprisingly so for an anjeo.

Tequila el Viejito produces a lengthy line of tequilas that likely have no foothold in the American market. There are thousands of tequila brands in the global market, so I can't remember them all, but I've never seen any of the brands produced here, never heard any of them discussed. That music and culinary stars like Sammy Hagar and Guy Fieri chose this distillery to produce a brand for them makes me wonder what they were drinking when their decision was made.

Santo Fino Anejo isn't bad, but it's bland. For the self-appointed Mayor of Flavortown to scream loudly and season with a big scoop in the food world–yet choose a tequila so bland that it barely whispers to one's tastebuds–makes little sense. I've had Hagar's Cabo Wabo blanco, and it was decent, wholly suitable for cocktails. So I'm confused as to why he'd sign on to something so bereft of flavor.

I'll confess: I'm a fan of Fieri. No, not his shows; I don't like those. I'm a fan of him personally. I met him at a press event years ago and found him super nice, a great conversationalist and a sincere dude. He's one of those people who flips the interview to you and starts asking good questions and follow-ups. I've also never heard a bad word about him among my food press colleagues.

Soooo, I say that to admit that I wanted this to be good. I wanted him to connect his culinary sensibilities to a tequila that was delicious. Didn't happen. It's all packaging (click the link to the left and scroll down to NEW PACKAGING) without a good product inside. Sammy, Guy, get in line with all the other celebrities whose tequilas just aren't good.

BRAND NOTES

Santo Spirits announces the fifth expression in its award-winning portfolio of ultra-premium agave spirits with the rollout of Santo Tequila Añejo. Produced by a third-generation distiller at the 86-year-old El Viejito distillery in Atotonilco el Alto, Jalisco, Santo Tequila Añejo is crafted using time-honored methods focused on preserving the heritage of bold agave flavor from when tequila was first made in Mexico centuries ago.

From the carefully-selected yeast, to the two-stage low and slow cooking method, to the precise distillation cuts, the entire Santo production process is tuned towards preserving the traditional flavor of agave-forward tequila. Reinforcing this standard is the fact that Santo Tequila Anejo – like all Santo tequilas – is 100% additive free, meaning nothing is added to mask the agave flavor or to cover for using bitter, under-aged agaves or shorter aging periods in inferior casks.

On the nose, the new añejo delivers aromas of clove, grapefruit peel and golden pineapple anchored in tobacco resin and soft, creamy vanilla. Silky on the palate, and equally dimensional and bright in color and clarity, Santo Tequila Añejo, has a full and long-lasting finish led by peppery cedar, dried desert sage and juicy, green melon.

Helmed by tequila visionary and legendary rocker Sammy Hagar and culinary luminary Guy Fieri, Santo Spirits is committed to showcasing old world style tequilas that harken back to the precision and craftsmanship renowned among Mexican tequileros. As partners, friends and impresarios in their respective fields, Sammy and Guy bring authentic tequila and culinary credentials to the Santo brand.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Storywood Anejo and Reposado Tequila Reviews

Doubtless, some will like these gentle sippers, but they’re too gentle for my preference. They lack the backbone a barrel can provide and the magical flavors great oxidization deliver to dazzle.

Storywood Anejo and Reposado Tequila Reviews

BOTTLE DETAILS

  • DISTILLER: Produced by Storywood and distilled at NOM 1137 La Cofradia
  • MASH BILL: 100% Blue Webber Agave
  • AGE: Reposado, 7 Months in ex-Scotch casks, Anejo, 14 Months in ex-Scotch casks
  • YEAR: 2023
  • PROOF: 80 (40% ABV)
  • MSRP: Reposado, $50.77, Anejo, $85
  • BUY ONLINE: Out of Stock Online

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: People who like soft, aged tequilas.

WORTH THE PRICE: No. There's better out there for less.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bar.

OVERALL: Here's why I chose to review two tequilas from Storywood in one review: The differences between them is just 7 months in a used Scotch cask from Speyside. The reposado aged 7 months; the anejo 14 months. Hard but paying work kept me from the volunteer duty of reviewing, so I've had these bottles for several months. The benefit of that is I got to taste them both many times before sitting down to the actual reviewing. What intrigued me all along was their similarities in the glass.

The reposado leads with some rawer, greener, vegetal aromas that more intriguing than unpleasant. The older anjeo is much sweeter, bearing a cotton candy note that's a signature aroma on Casa Noble tequilas, the distillery's flagship brand. None offers any aromas of a Scotch-cask rest, but who knows how many times that Scotch cask was used and reused, or whether its charred innards were chipped out, a common practice in tequila.

These less-pronounced notes carry over to the liquid. Both present a super soft mouthfeel, which is pleasant, but the flavors of cooked agave are faint, which is interesting given the press-release's claim 10-year-old agaves were used and, as I assume, slow roasted in La Cofradia's brick ovens for depth and complexity. But there's just not much going on in either expression. There's some positive black pepper and cinnamon influence in the finish, but I was hoping for more depth and complexity.

Doubtless, some will like these gentle sippers, but they're too gentle for my preference. They lack the backbone a barrel can provide and the magical flavors great oxidization deliver to dazzle.

BRAND NOTES

Both Storywood Reposado and Añejo tequilas begin with 10-year-old mature 100% blue Weber agave, harvested from the lowland region of Jalisco then married with the natural spring water from Volcan de Tequila that flows down from the mountains. The tequila is produced by master distiller Carlos Hernandez Ramos from La Cofradia then aged in the finest of oak casks from Speyside, Scotland.

“We’re excited to bring the Storywood Tequila cultural partnership between Mexico and Scotland to people in the U.S.,” says Storywood Tequila Founder, Michael Ballantyne, a native of Scotland. “We’ve already seen tremendous excitement for this innovative tequila from both whiskey and tequila aficionados.”

The Añejo Speyside 14 is aged for 14 months in medium char single malt Scotch whisky barrels from Dufftown, Scotland. The oak aging enhances the earthy, herbal notes and layers in toasted oak, roasted nuts, and treacle toffee flavors. Reposado Speyside 7 has notes of caramel, subtly oaky with hints of vanilla and honey on an earthly, lowland agave base, and is aged over 7 months in Scotch Speyside whisky barrels.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Old Forester 1924 Bourbon Review

Old Forester’s longstanding mashbill is 72% corn, 18% rye and 10% malted barley. But the mashbill chosen for 1924 is 79% corn, 11% rye and 10% malted barley. It also was fermented with a unique yeast strain.

Old Forester 1924 Bourbon Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Any whiskey fan.

WORTH THE PRICE: Yep, especially since this appears to be an increasingly common price for a high-quality 10-year-old bourbon.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle.

OVERALL: Nobody plays the history-by-the-numbers-on-the-label game as consistently as Old Forester. Its Whiskey Row Series includes the 1870 (Old Forester's founding), 1897 (the creation of the Bottled-In-Bond Act), 1910 (when a distillery fire necessitated some whiskey be barreled a second time in new charred oak), and 1920 (the start of Prohibition). The fifth addition to the lineup is 1924, which marks a period when, as a whiskey maker with a medicinal spirits permit, Old Forester legally acquired loads of barrels from other distilleries and bottled them as Old Fo'. Eventually, those barrels filled tens of millions of medicinal prescriptions for Americans who were sick of just one thing: Prohibition.

Since Old Forester had yet to build its own distillery, sourcing was nothing new. What intrigued Brown-Forman master distiller Chris Morris and the brand team most, though, were two things: 1. whose whiskeys the brand sourced during Prohibition, and 2. what mashbills were used to make those whiskeys.

Old Forester 1924 Bourbon Review
Chris Morris, master distiller at Brown-Forman, talks about Old Forester's new 1924 bourbon. Behind him in portrait is Owsley Brown II, the company's CEO from 1993 to 2009. Photo by Steve Coomes

Old Forester's longstanding mashbill is 72% corn, 18% rye and 10% malted barley. But the mashbill chosen for 1924 is 79% corn, 11% rye and 10% malted barley. It also was fermented with a unique yeast strain. At a press event in early January, Morris was asked whose Prohibition-era mashbill was used to create 1924. His answer: Contractual obligations forbid sharing it. That answer that leads to at least two assumptions:

  • Whatever distillery that used that mashbill shut down during Prohibition, later came back and doesn't want that secret revealed.
  • Or, Brown-Forman, which is legendarily tight-lipped about its own contract clients, just doesn't want to say who.

While you decide on which assumption you like, I'll start describing Old Forester 1924 Bourbon. Unsurprisingly for a 10-year-old whiskey aged in a heat-cycled warehouse, the color is deep copper. Swirling it the glass shows off a supple yet weighty body.

The nose is redolent of the usual Old Forester goodies such as baking spice, dark fruits, fresh peaches and that ever-present and always welcome acetone-and-bubblegum note. Where 1924 breaks with traditional Old Fo' is by contributing notes of almond paste, Nutella, chocolate cake, graham cracker and a little ginger.

Its mouthfeel delivers on the visual promise of a full-bodied bourbon. Letting it roll around your mouth is an indulgent exercise that scatters sparks of cinnamon and bits of graham cracker all around. Some black pepper and maple notes emerge shortly afterward. From a fresh-cracked bottle, it's not overly complex, but it's so rich and satisfying that, well, mind-bending depth isn't required. My bet is that as this whiskey is poured out and air replaces it, complexity will kick in.

The finish is slightly drying but clean, warm and long, just as you'd expect from a bourbon of this age–I'll describe it as "Old Forester Birthday-esque." It is delicious in every respect, and I'm grateful that the brand team had the foresight to create this 10 years ago.

BRAND NOTES

During Prohibition, more than 200 distilleries in Kentucky alone were forced to close. Old Forester, however, continued operations because the federal government issued it one of six permits to bottle existing whiskey stocks as medicine. In 1924, Old Forester acquired barrels from closed distillers, with different mash bills, and bottled that liquid as Old Forester. This special release commemorates that moment in time.

This release honors the 100th anniversary of that whiskey innovation.  Old Forester is the only bourbon brand produced before, during and after Prohibition.

“We are honored to commemorate this historical milestone with a new featured mashbill and a beautiful 10-year age statement," master taster Melissa Rift said. “It allows whisky lovers to taste just how dynamic our brand can be while staying rooted in our rich history."

Old Forester 1924 Bourbon Review
Melissa Rift, master taster, Old Forester. Photo by Steve Coomes

Color: Dark graham cracker.

Aroma: Soft notes of fudge, cocoa, marzipan, and cured tobacco layered over hints of rich oak and warm cinnamon.

Flavor: Chocolate-covered graham cracker dusted with cinnamon.

Finish: Hints of spice and graham cracker crumbles.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.


Still Austin Blue Corn Bottled-In-Bond Bourbon Review

What’s most intriguing about this bourbon is its lack of sweetness. A glance at the mash bill shows it’s limited to 51% corn, which explains a lot of it since it’s roughly 25% lower than most bourbons on the market. I can’t decide whether I like that reduced sweetness, but it’s got my attention.

Still Austin Blue Corn Bottled-In-Bond Bourbon Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

POPS' NOTES

SHARE WITH: All bourbon fans, especially those harboring doubts about Texas bourbon.

WORTH THE PRICE: $80 is a bit high compared to larger distillery BIBs, but it's craft whiskey, and sometimes you gotta pay a bit more for it. And if you don't, it may sell out before you can try it, which happened with this one.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bar, mostly because it may be all you ever see.

OVERALL: This is Release No. 3 in a Still Austin bottled-in-bond series that includes a Red Corn Bourbon and a High Rye Bourbon. Since both were well regarded by the Bourbon & Banter team, we were happy to receive samples late last year.

On this one, the nose is a little muted for me: a balance of spring flowers and rye with a bit of oak in the background. You have to be patient to coax out some obscurities like white icing on gingerbread and Bottle Caps cola flavor. Some rye bread dough comes on with time.

The palate is equally subtle, a softie, frankly, and it takes some concentration to identify its virtues. Cooked corn, rye and dried lemon peel lead the way with back notes of eucalyptus (think a faint hum of Ricola throat lozenges) bringing up the rear. The finish is medium-length, herbal and warming. (I don't focus too much on finishes, but medium length and heat from a good 100-proof finish can be a treat, and this one is.)

What's most intriguing about this bourbon is its lack of sweetness. A glance at the mash bill shows it's limited to 51% corn, which explains a lot of it since it's roughly 25% lower than most bourbons on the market. I can't decide whether I like that reduced sweetness, but it's got my attention. What I do like about it is the distiller's desire to go a little against the typical bourbon grain bill.

What's also intriguing is the monster rye portion (44%) of the mashbill. I don't recall seeing such a high rye bourbon ever, not even in Still Austin's own High Rye Bourbon (which is only 25%.) But, strangely enough, the rye doesn't come in roaring with spice notes like you might assume. In fact, I've triple-checked that mashbill to ensure 44% isn't a typo, but the math doesn't lie. So where is that rye punch in the face I expected?

When sweetness falls short in a traditionally sweet bourbon, what do you do? I make an old fashioned with it to see if bitters, demerara syrup and some dilution will bring it to life. It did, and unexpectedly, its oak notes came to the fore along with some baking spice. While I expect to sip this neat a few times more, I'm betting Still Austin Blue Corn BIB Bourbon will serve better in some upcoming cocktails.

BRAND NOTES

“As a distiller, I've always wanted to push the boundaries with the amount of rye in a bourbon mash-bill," said John Schrepel, head distiller at Still Austin. "With blue corn being such a sweet variety of corn, it was the perfect fit to achieve 44% rye in this bourbon blend. This is my personal favorite spirit that we've ever produced.”

  • Nose: The spirit boasts notes of cream soda and malted milk, with a hint of spiced plum and country apple cider. 
  • Palate: With the first sip, the palate is greeted with a velvety texture, with intricate notes of dark-chocolate candied citrus, followed by the sweetness of carrot cake and buttercream frosting. Hints of crème de menthe, nougat, and Manuka honey elevate the flavor of this bourbon. 
  • Finish: The finish is well-balanced with chewy notes of dark sherry and crème brûlée, with lingering notes of eucalyptus, oak spice, and black tea.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.