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Catoctin Creek Rabble Rouser Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey Review

Updated April 1, 2024 By Richard Thomas Average Rating: B+ Rabble Rouser has been around for a few years now, having first been released in 2015. Although it has been a four year old expression from the beginning, it was not initially labeled a bottled in bond and therefore can’t be considered as a forerunner …

Updated April 1, 2024

By Richard Thomas

Average Rating: B+

Catoctin Creek Rabble Rouser Bottled in Bond Rye
(Credit: Catoctin Creek)

Rabble Rouser has been around for a few years now, having first been released in 2015. Although it has been a four year old expression from the beginning, it was not initially labeled a bottled in bond and therefore can’t be considered as a forerunner of the craft bottled in bond whiskeys that started coming out in 2017. Even so, it was quite novel to have a four year age statement on a craft rye back in 2015.

Catoctin Creek used their house 100% rye mash for making Rabble Rouser, but the distillate isn’t the same as what goes into Roundstone Rye. Instead, they chose to distill it to a lower proof, a choice that puts more of just about everything but alcohol in the new make.

Past that, it’s a bottled in bond: distilled at Catoctin Creek in a single season; four years old, the minimum for the category; aged under government supervision; bottled at 100 proof.

The Whiskey
In the glass, Catoctin Creek Rabble Rouser has the look of brightly polished copper. A coating of the glass forms a beady crown and drops skinny legs.

The scent comes on with dill and cookie spices first, followed by a spoonful of brown sugar, then some musty old wood and pine needles underneath. A sip reveals a whiskey that is deeply spicy, albeit mildly and pleasantly so. A moderate dollop of ginger and pepper is rounded out with cinnamon, cardamom and sweetened just a touch with vanilla. From there, the finish is briefly spicy, but this fades fast and leaves behind that musty wood from the nose. One can really see the choice of lower distillation proof yielding dividends in the flavor.

Addendum by Kenrick Thurston-Wilcox
The whiskey is a distinct mix of red and brown in the glass. The nose is what one expects in a good glass of rye, very herbaceous with notes of mint and grass, oak, caramel, rye bread, peppercorn with floral notes. The palate brings more of the same rye qualities with the rye spiciness coming through first, mint and grass once again, rye bread and some candied orange notes. There is a slight sharpness to the whiskey when it first hits your tongue. The finish is smoky and of medium length.

If you know someone who is hesitant to try rye this is a great representation of traditional rye flavors and one that I would suggest to anyone. It doesn’t bring any new flavors or ideas to the table and it doesn’t need to. It’s well made with all the flavors being clear, concise and distinct even representing the floral qualities that a lot of ryes tend to omit. Be careful picking this up as this Rabble Rouser may just win you over with its ideas.

The Price
A bottle of Rabble Rouser now fetches $99. That is up only four bucks from when this was first covered in 2019, which is hardly surprising given the post-Pandemic inflation cycle.

Bernheim Original Barrel Proof Wheat Whiskey Review (Winter 2024)

By Richard Thomas Rating: A- A sample of the latest Bernheim Original Barrel Proof, the A224 (meaning first batch of the year, February 2024) arrived at my house in a timely manner, because I was departing for visitation with my son a couple of weeks later. So I tucked it away in my luggage, took …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A-

Bernheim_Barrel_Proof_750ml_Straight – A224

A sample of the latest Bernheim Original Barrel Proof, the A224 (meaning first batch of the year, February 2024) arrived at my house in a timely manner, because I was departing for visitation with my son a couple of weeks later. So I tucked it away in my luggage, took my notes one evening, and enjoyed the rest as Air BnB whiskey. That proved to be a casual, but serendipitous choice of travel whiskey, because this batch is the best Bernheim I’ve tried in some years.

Before I plunge into this particular release, a review of the brand history is in order. I remember when Bernheim was first released in 2005: I took note of the bottle at Liquor Barn on a visit home to Kentucky, and immediately picked it up as a curiosity, since wheat whiskey was unheard of at that time. Since then, this whiskey named for Heaven Hill’s principal distillery has come into its own. The stock behind the brand has been used in Parker’s Heritage releases a couple of times, including the oldest wheat whiskey released to date; the core expression bucked prevailing trends at the time by acquiring an age statement in 2014. Finally, they added a cask strength version about a year ago, slated to come out in two batches per year.

So Bernheim Barrel Proof has not been around for long, but I found last years two releases to be rather ordinary, in the sense that they were just stronger Bernheim. The stock used for barrel proof batches still retains a 7 year age statement, but is supposed to come from a wider age range of 7 to 9 years, so that outcome was a little disappointing.

But as the saying goes, good things come to those who wait. This time I am guessing the batch got a sizable proportion of “honey barrels,” either incidentally or by design. This is also the strongest of the releases to date, coming in at 125.2 proof.

The Whiskey
The pour took on a brown-tinted, light amber look in the glass, with the nose coming on like a freshly baked sweet roll. That roll comes smothered with a vanilla-infused frosting a thick covering of nutty bits, and the dough was baked with a generous helping of cinnamon stirred in. The palate follows much the same list of elements, but with a woody element coming forward. The oak doesn’t dominate, but makes its presence felt, giving the flavor a noticeably drier, spicier character against the far sweeter nose, and overall just brings the whole thing into better balance. The finish leans even further in this direction, turning moderately tannic, oaky and spicy, plus a little leathery. It’s a surprisingly woody conclusion for what is still merely a mature whiskey, and not even a middle aged one.

This batch of Bernheim is a balanced flavor bomb, and I began seeing rave reviews for it on Instagram just prior to my getting on the plane. Despite this batch being celebrated by a handful of sources (including me), the expression itself is still not the sort of thing bottle hunters automatically chase down to extinction. So, your odds of snagging one at recommended retail price are pretty good. Go get it.

The Price
Expect to pay $65 a bottle.

Ben Holladay Rickhouse Proof Small Batch Reserve Bourbon Review

By Randall H. Borkus Rating: B- The brothers Ben and David Holladay founded the Blue Springs Distillery in 1856a, it was at a limestone well supposedly discovered by Lewis and Clark. The distillery changed hands multiple times; first to George Shawhan, who renamed it the Shawhan Distillery in 1900; again in 1936 to become the …

By Randall H. Borkus

Rating: B-

Ben Halladay 6 Year Old Cask Strength Small Batch Bourbon
(Credit: Randall H. Borkus)

The brothers Ben and David Holladay founded the Blue Springs Distillery in 1856a, it was at a limestone well supposedly discovered by Lewis and Clark. The distillery changed hands multiple times; first to George Shawhan, who renamed it the Shawhan Distillery in 1900; again in 1936 to become the Old Weston Distillery; finally turning into the McCormick Distilling Company in 1942. In 1993, the business was purchased by Ed Pechar and Mike Griesser.

McCormick Distilling is now the oldest distillery west of the Mississippi River that still operates at its original location, and it was one of the handful of distilleries allowed to remain open to bottle medicinal whiskey during Prohibition. Ben Holladay, named for the co-founder of the original operation, now provides the name for their bourbon.

Ben Holladay Rickhouse Proof Small Batch Reserve Bourbon is distilled from a mash bill of 73% corn, 15% rye and 12% malted barley, aged for six years and bottled at a cask strength of 120.1 proof (60.05% ABV).

I enjoy Holladay’s transparency about their blending process. Here the Rickhouse Proof comes from their seven-floor rickhouse, Warehouse C where they blend six-year-old bourbons from four floors to create this small batch combination; fifteen percent comes from floor 2, fifty-eight percent from floor 3, twenty-two percent from floor 4, and five percent from floor 5.

The Bourbon
I poured this Bourbon whiskey into my Glencairn glass, and I immediately smelled the sweet Missouri juice as it splashed into my glass. The whiskey color is a rusty brown clinging to the inside of my glass.

The nose is sweet oak, cinnamon, Caramel, and burnt cherry with hints of warm almonds. The front palate is warming yet the heat dissipates then opening with a spicy Caramel sweetness, baking spices, cinnamon, and a dry nuttiness. The mid palate sports more burnt cherry, toasty caramel, and corn sugars mingling with a touch of black pepper, and rye freshness. The finish is cinnamon spicy with a rye grain earthiness, oak dryness, and a black pepper splash. The finish lasts medium long which surprises me for a six year old bourbon whiskey from Missouri.

I really enjoyed sipping this whiskey and it paired well with both a mild and a spicy cigars. This is a keeper, and I’ll go back for another bottle.

The Price
A 750ml bottle has a suggested price of $74.99, and I even found bottles available on the shelf in Mandan, North Dakota.

House Of Tamworth Crab Trapper Whiskey Review

By Randall H. Borkus Rating: “Novelty” Tamworth Distilling, a craft distillery out of New Hampshire, was founded by Steven Grasse. He is referred to as a Wonka-like character and was described as the “punk rock prince of small-batch spirits” by writer Alex Halberstadt. Among his other credits, Grasse co-created Hendrick’s Gin in 1999 in partnership …

By Randall H. Borkus

Rating: “Novelty”

Tamworth Crab Trapper
(Credit: Randall H. Borkus)

Tamworth Distilling, a craft distillery out of New Hampshire, was founded by Steven Grasse. He is referred to as a Wonka-like character and was described as the “punk rock prince of small-batch spirits” by writer Alex Halberstadt. Among his other credits, Grasse co-created Hendrick’s Gin in 1999 in partnership with William Grant & Sons, and later went on to the Tamworth Distillery.

Tamworth has over 50 active spirits in its listed inventory, which is a lot when you consider they operate a single 250 gallon copper still from Vendome Copper & Brassworks in Kentucky. Mind you, that one still is outfitted with a brandy helmet, whiskey column, gin basket, and rectifying column, but it is still just the one piece of equipment.

Among the strangest offerings in that expansive line-up is their Crab Trapper Whiskey. It is a bourbon made with green crabs. Yes, you read that correctly: they use green crabs in what is billed as an effort to eradicate the hostile species on the northeast coast of the United States. The bourbon is steeped with the crabs, corn and spices in a recipe similar to a Low Country Boil.

The Green Crab is an invasive species wreaking havoc in the marine environment in various locations in the world. It has few predators, so it aggressively hunts its prey, destroys seagrass, and outcompetes resident species for food and habitat. This little devil has even been documented to consume juvenile king crabs and salmon.

The Whiskey
On the nose the crab essence is ever present, accompanied by cilantro, bay leaf and coriander. The palate carries a distinct hint of a crab trap left on the dock overnight. The spirit finishes with notes of clove, allspice, and more crab trap essence. It is a true novelty spirit.

The Price
A 200ml bottle retails for $65 and makes a great unopened collectable.

Town Branch Maple Barrel Stout Finished Bourbon Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: C+ Before there was a Town Branch Distillery or even a sourced brand, there was a Lexington Brewing Company, with the distillery erected on the property of the original brewery. Today’s joint Lexington Brewing & Distilling Company isn’t quite what most people imagine when they think “brewstillery,” because the brewery and …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: C+

Before there was a Town Branch Distillery or even a sourced brand, there was a Lexington Brewing Company, with the distillery erected on the property of the original brewery. Today’s joint Lexington Brewing & Distilling Company isn’t quite what most people imagine when they think “brewstillery,” because the brewery and distillery aren’t under the same roof or even fully adjacent (although there is a brewery next to the distillery, large parts of the brewing operation are conducting elsewhere in Lexington, Kentucky).

Yet no romantic and crafty image changes what the actual value of a brewstillery is, and Lexington Brewing & Distilling certainly enjoys that: synergy. Such is the case with the Town Branch Maple Stout Finished Bourbon. This starts with an imperial stout, brewed with brown sugar “for extra kick;” and an ex-bourbon barrel that has been used to age maple syrup. The imperial stout is then aged for 18 months in what is now ex-bourbon maple syrup barrels, becoming Kentucky Maple Barrel Stout.

Those barrels were then taken over to the distillery and filled up with already mature bourbon again. This second, November 2023 batch of Town Branch Maple Barrel Stout Finished Bourbon has received two years in the finishing casks; the third batch due out later this year will raise that finishing period to three years. After that lengthy finishing spell, the bourbon was bottled at 94 proof.

The Bourbon
The pour took on a light, dulled amber look in the glass. The nose had a core current of benchmark bourbon notes: vanilla, candy corn, a sliver of oak, but add to that a whiff of earthy cocoa. The flavor spun around a bit to lead with the earthy, coffee-ground bitter flavor of stout, but behind that came up those previously mentioned benchmark bourbon notes. The dry finish mixed that bitter coffee-stout current with the oak sliver, but didn’t linger for a particularly long time.

Certainly the stout influence on this bourbon is strong, but not so much so that it overwhelms the core point of it being bourbon. The one thing I thought was largely absent was the maple syrup part, but having never actually tried the Kentucky Maple Barrel Stout, I can’t say how strong the maple influence was on the root beer. The problem here is that while some people like their bourbon spicy, I can’t recall anyone ever saying to me that they like it to have a bitter aspect. I find myself wondering if perhaps this would not have been a better effort on their rye, but that is just me being speculative.

The Price
This bottle is listed at $70.

Triple Dog Irish Whiskey Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: C- Triple Dog Irish Whiskey is certainly packaged to catch your eye from the shelf: its modern, sleek design and red and black colors will stand out amid a cluster of just about any potential mixture of whiskey bottles. Although I find the studded collar on the neck of the bottle …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: C-

Triple Dog Irish Whiskey
(Credit: Triple Dog Irish Whiskey/O’Shevlin Spirits)

Triple Dog Irish Whiskey is certainly packaged to catch your eye from the shelf: its modern, sleek design and red and black colors will stand out amid a cluster of just about any potential mixture of whiskey bottles. Although I find the studded collar on the neck of the bottle to be on the garish side, noticing that detail will surely pull attention in further. But that is just the bottle; what is in, and just as importantly behind, that bottle?

Triple Dog comes to us from entrepreneur Dan O’Shevlin and his O’Shevlin Spirits, founded in 2019. Triple Dog is another Irish spirits product from O’Shevlin, as he is also behind Bon Oir Vodka.

As for what is in the bottle, this is a blended whiskey and Triple Dog states that it is a mix of malted and unmalted grains. That is an curious phrasing, because pot still whiskey is now famous for using a mash bill of malted and unmalted barley. However, as it is a blended whiskey Triple Dog absolutely incorporates grain whiskey, and grain whiskey very nearly always leans heavily on unmalted corn, wheat or rice.

Where those whiskeys come from is specified as Dundalk, County Louth. That is noteworthy because the Great Northern Distillery is in Dundalk, and Cooley Distillery is in County Louth. The latter is famous because it was formerly the major supplier of sourced whiskey in Ireland; the latter is rising to take Cooley’s place, as its stock has gained in maturity and Cooley’s output goes more and more to service owner Beam Suntory’s in-house brands. Incidentally, both distilleries were founded by the same man: John Teeling. There are a couple of other smaller distilleries in Dundalk as well, so Triple Dog has a number of potential sources to draw on. The whiskey, regardless of source or type, was supposed to have been aged in French oak casks. Those sources are then exported to the US and, according to the labeling, bottled in Idaho at 80 proof.

The Whiskey
The nose gave me a current of butterscotch and toffee on the one hand, and another equal flow of straw and field cotton in the other. A sip takes those elements (not the cotton, as I can’t tell you what raw cotton seeds taste like) and adds a veneer of creme brulee over the top. It’s a simple whiskey, with its main strength lying in its relatively hefty mouthfeel and flavor. Compared to the other whiskeys I would put in its class, like Bushmills White Label and especially Jameson, it’s noticeably thicker in the body.

The Price
Officially, this is priced at $40 a bottle. However, I’ve noticed it priced down to the $32 to $35 mark with many online retailers.

New York Distilling Revives An Heirloom Rye For Their Whiskey

When Allen Katz and Tom Potter founded The New York Distilling Company (NYDC) in 2011, they started with the idea of developing a rye whiskey that captured the flavors and history of New York, a concept that has since been embodied as the regional “Empire Rye.” For their part, NYDC has now made their decade-old …

Jaywalk Straight Rye’s journey started with a small envelope of just 10 seeds. Aided by the small-grains experts at Cornell University’s College of Agriculture, the search began for a varietal with deep historic and distilling roots in New York. Research and experimentation led the team to Horton Rye – a singularly unique grain whose origins date back to 17th century Rye, New York – and began the process that would create Jaywalk Rye.

Horton’s size – significantly smaller than conventional rye – packs a concentration of sugars, minerals and starch compounds that make for a truly distinct flavor profile; and a rare one at that, as most distilling enterprises wouldn’t consider cultivating a grain with yields that would limit commercial profitability. That didn’t matter to Katz and the team’s ongoing pursuit of outstanding flavor. NYDC partnered with Pedersen Family Farm in Seneca Falls, one of the largest organic farms in New York, to grow all of their rye. “We started in a series of ceramic pots, moved to a greenhouse and then to field tests. In all, it took 5 years just to have enough rye to start distilling.” says Katz.

As fields were planted and harvested, the initiative has grown to more than 200 acres under cultivation. During those years the distilling, aging and blending began under the care and guidance of co-founder and Head Distiller, Bill Potter. The team experimented with six, seven, and eight-year old whiskey, all aged in 53-gallon char #3 oak barrels, and created its landmark blend: Jaywalk Straight Rye. “We bring forward flavors beyond the generic ‘spice’ too easily associated with contemporary rye whiskies,” said Katz. “The use of Horton Rye in every blend affords a focus on darker caramelized sugars and a subtle range of tropical fruits from candied pineapple and mango on the palate and honeyed notes of ripe apricot on the nose.”

Jaywalk Straight Rye is bottled at 92 proof and its artfully crafted blend makes it an ideal ingredient for rye-based cocktails. Use it as a go-to when you’re in the mood for an authentic Manhattan or soothing Old Fashioned. “Rye whiskey was instrumental in the earliest days of American cocktail culture,” says Katz, “and when we designed Jaywalk Rye, we wanted it to be a delicious drinking rye with the versatility to shine in cocktails.”

Jaywalk Straight Rye is joined by two other labels under the Jaywalk imprint, both of which are built on the Horton rye varietal. Jaywalk Bonded Rye showcases a blend of exclusively 7-year-old whiskey at 100 proof and Jaywalk Heirloom Rye is an annual offering of scrupulously selected single barrels, bottled at cask strength (114-116 proof).

All of Jaywalk’s offerings showcase flavors that are distinctly New York, but a sip of the spirit also captures something more: a hint of New York’s essence. Jaywalk’s name was inspired by the unwritten attitude that pervades the streets of the distiller’s hometown. “New Yorkers are dreamers,” says Katz. “Whether you’re born here or feel compelled to make this city your home, we share a drive to find joy in personal creativity, our own as well as others. It’s not a city for everyone.” For Katz and the Potters, New York provided the catalyst to be entrepreneurs, to understand and be unafraid in pursuit of a dream.

Jaywalk Straight Rye is available at a suggested retail price of $50 for 750ml, Jaywalk Straight Bonded Rye is available at a suggested retail price of $55 for 750ml, and Jaywalk Heirloom is available at a suggested retail price of $119 for 700ml.

Heaven’s Door Exploration Series #1 Calvados Cask Bourbon Review

By Randall H. Borkus Rating: B+ Heaven’s Door Calvados Cask Straight Bourbon is the first expression in the Heaven’s Door Exploration Series, a sourced and limited edition expression series showcasing distinct finishing cask stock. This first release in the series is a blend that marries the complexity of a toasted oak barrel and a French …

By Randall H. Borkus

Rating: B+

Heaven’s Door Exploration Series #1 Calvados Cask Bourbon
(Credit: Heaven’s Door)

Heaven’s Door Calvados Cask Straight Bourbon is the first expression in the Heaven’s Door Exploration Series, a sourced and limited edition expression series showcasing distinct finishing cask stock. This first release in the series is a blend that marries the complexity of a toasted oak barrel and a French Calvados brandy cask finish. This unique combination is intended to create a complex, balanced rich composite of Tennessee whiskey elements, French wine casks and toasted barrel flavor profiles.

They start with a Tennessee straight bourbon whiskey foundation, then carry it into secondary maturation in Calvados brandy casks enhanced with the addition of medium-heavy, toasted French oak stave inserts. Calvados Brandy is a delicious Norman apple brandy matured for a minimum of two years in oak casks. Calvados Brandy Cask wood is sourced from Quercus Petraea tree which is a unique species of tree growing throughout France and regularly used in the production of highly regarded French Wine Barrels.

The Bourbon
The whiskey in my Glencairn is a dark brown, amber liquid. The nose is sweet and full of overcooked burnt apple and a brown sugar candy. The front and mid-palate is full bodied with hints of oak tannins, sweet sugars reminding me of Jamoncillo de leche (Mexican milk fudge made with brown sugar, sweetened condensed milk and vanilla extract) and settling in with a sweet dry red wine essence. The finish is warm, rich and complex with a cornucopia of vanilla-citrus sweetness and burnt apple-like sugars lasting medium length.

The Calvados brandy casks combined with the toasted barrel influence takes an average Tennessee whiskey and transforms it into a complex flavor bomb which I thoroughly enjoy. This is good whiskey and reasonably priced so you will want to add to your home bar.

The whiskey is 5 years old and served up at 108 proof.

The Price
This bottle has a suggested retail price of $79.99.

Dewar’s Launches A 21 Year Old, Mizunara-Finished Malt

Dewar’s Scotch Whisky has announced the newest iteration from its award-winning Double Double series, Double Double 21 Year Old Mizunara Oak Cask Finish. This expression brings together the distilling traditions of Japan and Scotland, creating a rare blend that captures the essence of two cultures. Unlike American oak, Mizunara Oak requires more than 200 years to reach maturity and does not grow straight, posing a unique challenge in the process of forming it into casks. However, the extra effort is well worth it, as the liquid results in an intriguing balance of succulence, purity, and smoothness. The captivating amber colored whisky has been bottled at a strength of 46%.

Stephanie Macleod, Master Blender for Dewar’s, said, “The journey of creating this expression has been an exploration of flavors and craftsmanship. Together, my team and I introduced a distinctive twist to our award-winning Dewar’s Double Double 21 Year Old by finishing it in Japanese Mizunara Oak casks, creating a new and exciting whisky. This latest iteration in the Double Double Series is a testament to our commitment to delivering unparalleled experiences to our connoisseurs.”

Available for $149.99, Dewar’s Double Double 21 Year Old Mizunara is available in 750ml bottles at spirits retailers nationwide.

Lexington Brewing Kentucky Old Fashioned Ale Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: A- Although Lexington Brewing occupies a clear place in my heart, their place in the beer world is not quite as easily summed up. On the one hand, the company is owned by Alltech, not a big drinks conglomerate. Although Alltech is a substantial company, their base is in animal feed, …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A-

Kentucky Old Fashioned Ale
(Credit: Richard Thomas)

Although Lexington Brewing occupies a clear place in my heart, their place in the beer world is not quite as easily summed up. On the one hand, the company is owned by Alltech, not a big drinks conglomerate. Although Alltech is a substantial company, their base is in animal feed, with brewing and distilling being an adjunct that draws on their existing yeast expertise. On the other, their output and national distribution footprint puts them outside what almost everyone thinks of when they speak of “craft beer.” They fit in the tiny class of mid-sized brewers aren’t part of Big Booze.

There is some synergy between Alltech’s brewery and its various distilleries, especially when it comes to barrel stock. Their latest creation takes full advantage of this, and is the sort of thing that I wonder why nobody thought of it before, certainly once Ready To Drink (RTD) canned and bottled cocktails came into vogue during the Pandemic: Kentucky Old Fashioned Ale. What they’ve done is taken their classic Kentucky Ale (now the Kentucky Irish Red Ale) and brewed it up with cherries and orange peels, then aged it in freshly dumped bourbon barrels. That is a key advantage of running a brewstilling operation: you can get the freshest of freshly dumped bourbon barrels.

The Ale
As you can see from my photo, this is a deep brown ale with red highlights, too dark to be anything like amber. The head off my pour was minimal, and what I did get faded fast.

The name is exactly what you get: it is an ale that leans very heavily into Old Fashioned territory. In particular, that Old Fashioned is one that has tripled down on the orange, as if the bitters chosen were orange, the simple syrup had an orange zest infusion, and the cocktail was served with two peels instead of one. This isn’t to say its orange ale, however: the bourbon vanilla is very present, and the accents of red berry and cookie spice round the picture out.

This is a must-have for anyone who likes their beer interesting and their cocktails classic. I fully intend to go get a four-pack the next time around.

The Price
A four-pack is listed online for $16.