Category: review

Wild Turkey Jimmy Russell’s 70th Anniversary Bourbon Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: B+ Jimmy Russell is one of the living legends of not just Kentucky bourbon, but of world whiskey generally. That legend began 70 years ago, when Russell first began working at what was then called Anderson County Distilling, sweeping floors in 1954. During Russell’s time as an employee, the name would …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B+

Wild Turkey Jimmy Russell’s 70th Anniversary Edition Bourbon
(Credit: Richard Thomas)

Jimmy Russell is one of the living legends of not just Kentucky bourbon, but of world whiskey generally. That legend began 70 years ago, when Russell first began working at what was then called Anderson County Distilling, sweeping floors in 1954. During Russell’s time as an employee, the name would change to J.T.S. Brown & Sons and finally the Austin Nichols Distillery (officially, the plant is still called the Austin Nichols Wild Turkey Distillery today, even if that name is very little used in practice). He became Master Distiller in 1967, four years before the distillery even became the home of the Wild Turkey brand. His son took over in that role in 2015, and now his grandson is being groomed to step up as well. The way we think of core Wild Turkey expressions, such as Wild Turkey 101, Rare Breed and Russell’s Reserve, is very much what Russell made them to be.

Russell never formally stepped down or accepted a title like “Master Distiller Emeritus,” but he is still semi-retired. He still comes out sometimes to greet visitors at the distillery Visitor Center or for events, and he has been memorialized by a number of special released over the years; in 2014, the distillery marked his 60th year with Diamond Anniversary edition bourbon.

They have now marked the 70th anniversary with an eight year old expression of Wild Turkey, and in most respects I think it is more appropriate to the subject than past commemorative bottlings. Those were middle aged and rather expensive, but Jimmy Russell was never fond of whiskey that old and he is best known for expressions that, while undeniably premium in nature, are approachable by the everyman. This platinum expression is therefore more in keeping with Jimmy’s style, and at 101 proof is somewhat reminiscent of the export-only Wild Turkey 101 8 years old.

The Bourbon
In the glass, the whiskey has a bright, middle amber appearance. The nose is thick with cedar, vanilla and toffee, plus traces of baking spices. The flavor profile spins away from that to a large degree, finding its footing right on top of what I think of as benchmark bourbon qualities: caramel, brown sugar, nutmeg and a pinch of cinnamon. That last spice blends into a what is a the distinguishing trait, a modestly dry, woody current. Add to that a little citrus zest, and the profile is complete, with just enough to give it some character away from and above the bourbon stereotype. The finish runs with peppermint and vanilla.

The Price
This one is quite reasonable at $50 a bottle.

Ardbeg Anthology 14 Years Old: The Unicorn’s Tale Scotch Review

By Randall H. Borkus Rating: B- The Unicorn’s Tale is the second release in Ardbeg’s Anthology Collection, showcasing the distillery’s creativity. Dr. Bill Lumsden, head whisky creation and distilling at Ardbeg, names each whisky in the collection after a different mythological creature. So this time, it’s a unicorn. Lumsden said, “At Ardbeg we love to …

By Randall H. Borkus

Rating: B-

Ardbeg Anthology: The Unicorn’s Tale 14 Year Old Single Malt
(Credit: Randall H. Borkus)

The Unicorn’s Tale is the second release in Ardbeg’s Anthology Collection, showcasing the distillery’s creativity. Dr. Bill Lumsden, head whisky creation and distilling at Ardbeg, names each whisky in the collection after a different mythological creature. So this time, it’s a unicorn.

Lumsden said, “At Ardbeg we love to experiment with how we can push our spirit’s smoky balance into new worlds of flavor. Some time ago, we decided to try maturing Ardbeg in unusual cask types for the distillery to create sweet and smoky ‘hybrids’ – and so the Anthology Collection was born.”

I could not help but notice last year’s Anthology Collection release, “The Harpy’s Tale” is still available in every Binny’s liquor store I visited in my travels to Chicago. I even saw it on the shelf in North Dakota somewhere recently. I must admit it strikes me to pause and wonder why.

The Scotch
This whisky is bottled at 46% ABV and aged for 14 years.

The nose surprised me with a butterscotch vanilla scent nestled in a significant phenol overtone. The palate has a medium to thin mouthfeel, but the flavor takes right off with a burst of sweet citrus, malt, peated vanilla bean, smoky cooked fruits dusted with a sandalwood dryness. The finish medium and dry. It leaves a smoky bedrock covered with hints of brine, cooked down honey and a cool menthol feeling.

I must admit the butterscotch vanilla scent on the nose really got my attention but after multiple pours, overall, this whisky reminds me of every other Ardbeg expression with its heavy phenol dose. Peat lovers should enjoy this Ardbeg rendition, the price tag not withstanding.

The Price
The Unicorn’s Tale price tag of $169.99 will make it a tough purchase, if you realize you can buy an Ardbeg 10 Year old for $69.99.

Bruichladdich Octomore 15.3 Scotch Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: A- In 2023, I chose to do a rare batch review for the 14th installment of Bruichladdich’s famously smoky Octomore series. This year, I chose to tackle October 15.1, 15.2 and 15.3 separately, which brings me to the third and final chapter of Octomore 2024: the ultra-peated Octomore 15.3. Bruichladdich has …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A-

Bruichladdich Octomore 15.3 Single Malt
(Credit: Bruichladdich Distillery)

In 2023, I chose to do a rare batch review for the 14th installment of Bruichladdich’s famously smoky Octomore series. This year, I chose to tackle October 15.1, 15.2 and 15.3 separately, which brings me to the third and final chapter of Octomore 2024: the ultra-peated Octomore 15.3.

Bruichladdich has been doing this series for 15 years now, so raising their own bar for it is not easily achieved, but I think the distillery succeeded with 15.3, at least in one respect. At 307.2 ppm, this is the second most heavily peated whisky that Bruichladdich has ever made. Therefore, if a drinker should happen to get to try it, Octomore 15.3 will most likely by the most peaty whisky they’ve ever tried, and just possibly will ever try. After all, their most heavily peated whisky was made seven years ago.

The single malt was made from barley grown on the Octomore farm on Islay and matured in ex-bourbon casks (more than two-thirds of the proportion) and Spanish Oloroso hogsheads. The whisky was then bottled at a cask strength of 61.3% ABV. Octomore is usually five years old, and 15.3 is not listed as an exception.

The Scotch
My pour had a straw-like coloring, and that look came back around on the nose as well. I added a splash of water, because anything over 60% ABV pretty much requires it. It led with a scent that was like fresh cut straw, but next to it was a still-smoldering burnt patch of ground from a very recent field burn. Notes of cinnamon and sea spray rounded the nose out.

The smoky side of the whisky was present on the nose, but far from the peaty beast one would expect with numbers like this. The palate, however, pushes the smoke very much into the back. This silken-textured whisky leads with malty honey and cinnamon, with a fireplace shovelful of ash coming up only on the back end. That rolls off into the finish, which brought the three aspects–ash, honey, cinnamon–into superb balance, and holds that balance for a long, slow fade to black.

The final act on this whisky is truly wonderful, and something you should let play out fully before taking another sip. It’s also not the utter smokebomb one might expect with its sky high peating levels. The smoke current is certainly a potent one, but far from domineering.

The Price
This bottle is listed at $280.

Four Branches Founders Blend Bourbon Review

By Doug Fraser Rating: A- Four Branches Founders Blend Bourbon is the result of a culmination of four prior US service members from the four major branches of the US Military (i.e. not the Space Force). The bourbon represents those four branches–Army, Air Force, Marines, Navy–with the intent to be enjoyed by all while still …

By Doug Fraser

Rating: A-

Four Branches Founders Blend Bourbon(Credit: Four Branches Bourbon

Four Branches Founders Blend Bourbon is the result of a culmination of four prior US service members from the four major branches of the US Military (i.e. not the Space Force). The bourbon represents those four branches–Army, Air Force, Marines, Navy–with the intent to be enjoyed by all while still giving you that Kentucky kiss of a  a four-grain bourbon. That quadruplet is Michael Trott, Alfredo Franco, Robert Casey, and Harold Underwood. They say their ethos is born from the warrior spirit, honoring the fallen and supporting the families left behind. Four Branches actively serve veterans and families of veterans.

The Bourbon
Four Branches Bourbon is a four-grain bourbon with a mash bill of 65% corn, 15% rye, 10% malted barley, and 10% wheat. Four Branches bourbon is bottled at 96 proof.

Color: Light Gold

The nose immediately starts with some vanilla and oakiness. It then opens up to some warm baking spices, oats or grain, corn, and orange citrus. On the palate, there is more vanilla along with baking spices, graham crackers, oats, and corn sweetness. The finish is medium in length with more notes of oak, corn, and subtle baking spices.

The Price
Four Branches Founders Blend Bourbon can be found for $88 USD.

King of Kentucky Bourbon Review (2024)

By Richard Thomas Rating: A For any brand that is revived and reintroduced during my career as a food, drinks and travel writer, I’m always amazed when the lot count reaches several or (especially) a double digit number. Inevitably I find myself thinking “Has that newcomer really been around that long? Is it actually a …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A

King of Kentucky 2024
(Credit: Brown-Forman)

For any brand that is revived and reintroduced during my career as a food, drinks and travel writer, I’m always amazed when the lot count reaches several or (especially) a double digit number. Inevitably I find myself thinking “Has that newcomer really been around that long? Is it actually a fixture now?

The answer is yes, King of Kentucky is now in its seventh year. Moreover, as a sometimes late middle-aged, sometimes ultra-aged, single barrel, cask strength expression of Brown-Forman’s Kentucky bourbon, yes, King of Kentucky is definitely a fixture of the ultra-hot autumn release season that sees so many of the most sought after names in American whiskey hit store shelves.

Despite the royal title, King of Kentucky’s last iteration was actually quite bottom shelf, making its modern revival ironic. When Brown-Forman acquired the brand rights in 1940, they turned it into an unremarkable blended whiskey. That low tier status combined with the developing sales slump in the late 1960s (which led to the Great Whiskey Bust of the 1970s) goes a long way to explaining its discontinuance in 1968. So, to see it revived several years ago as a super premium expression, well, clearly it had more to do with the name than any memory of what King of Kentucky used to represent.

Master Distiller Emeritus Chris Morris chose two lots of barrels, entered in 2007, for this lot of King of Kentucky. They are all sixteen years old, and the proof on the sample barrel sent to me was 130.4.

The Bourbon
Once in my copita glass, this bourbon takes on an amber coloring that leans heavy into nut brown. On the nose, the stone fruitiness and tannins come together like a strongly brewed peach tea. Alongside that is a current of vanilla and a hint of chocolate and coconut that are reminiscent of a Mounds bar. The palate brings on more of that gourmet-level Mounds bar experience, coupled to honey, vanilla and a gloss of woody spiciness. The finish opens milk chocolate and vanilla sweetness with a note of nuts, but this fades fast to a light, lingering trace of wood spiciness.

The Price
King of Kentucky now officially retails for $350, but a survey of online retailers reveals plenty of stores hawking this bottle for five times as much.

 

 

Josh Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon Review (2022)

By Richard Thomas Rating: B+ Although we only do things whiskey at The Whiskey Reviewer, that bailiwick is widened somewhat by doing all things whiskey. That includes beer and wine aged in old whiskey barrels, such as Josh Cellars bourbon barrel aged cabernet sauvignon. For this expression, Josh takes their standard “cab sav” and gives …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B+

Josh Bourbon Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon
(Credit: Josh Cellars)

Although we only do things whiskey at The Whiskey Reviewer, that bailiwick is widened somewhat by doing all things whiskey. That includes beer and wine aged in old whiskey barrels, such as Josh Cellars bourbon barrel aged cabernet sauvignon. For this expression, Josh takes their standard “cab sav” and gives it two months of secondary maturation in old bourbon barrels. The wine at the end has an ABV of 14.5%.

The Wine
I found it very fruit forward for a cabernet sauvignon, being a full-on blackberry and currant bomb. The expected tannic current was stuffed very much into the background, with a modest run of vanilla sitting in between. Basically, it’s much fruiter, and consequently less spicy and woody, than the expected flavor profile, which has the end result of making the bourbon-granted vanilla note most welcome.

The Price
The 2022 release should cost you $22 or $23.

Elijah Craig Toasted Rye Whiskey Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: B When you stop and think about the logistics, the double new oak treatment should not be as commonplace as it has become. Although secondary maturation offers a way to give a new twist to an already existing whiskey in stock, it usually relies upon used barrels to achieve that effect, …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B

Elijah Craig Toasted Barrel Rye
(Credit: Heaven Hill)

When you stop and think about the logistics, the double new oak treatment should not be as commonplace as it has become. Although secondary maturation offers a way to give a new twist to an already existing whiskey in stock, it usually relies upon used barrels to achieve that effect, and used is often cheaper than a new barrel of the exact same type. It is because the effect achieved–doubling down on the flavors imparted by virgin American oak–that the expense has become worth it and the double new oak format has become expected for any major expression. Thus, it inevitably came around for Elijah Craig Rye, with Elijah Craig Bourbon having received the double new oaking back in 2020.

Toasted barrels are preferred for this secondary new oak maturation because of the difference between what charring and toasting accomplishes, but also because charring to some degree is required by Federal law in primary maturation. Even distillers who use toasted barrels for their first round of aging always give that toasted barrel a little charring afterward. For the second round, distillers can go for all-toasted if they choose, and this is preferred. The slower “cooking” of the barrel produces a more delicate flavor profile, as well as preserving certain flavor compounds in the wood that would otherwise be destroyed by the hotter charring process. Heaven Hill follows a custom process in the former vein, giving their barrels an almost hour-long toast followed by a flash of charring.

So, the creation of this whiskey starts with Elijah Craig Rye, made with the Kentucky style rye mash bill that just meets the minimum requirement of 51% rye. With 14% malted barley and 35% corn, I’ve come to think of Heaven Hill’s approach to rye as the exemplar of what Kentucky rye is: as low on rye as possible and high corn, playing down the spicy side of rye as much as possible. EC Rye is a no age statement whiskey, but said to be between four and six years old, so with a (presumed) several months worth of secondary aging I think of the Toasted Rye as five or six years old. The whiskey is bottled at 94 proof.

The Whiskey
The rye takes on a dull, middle amber look in the glass, noticeably darker than the usual copper that accompanies so many ryes. The nose led with dry grass and pine needles, with cinnamon graham crackers with a drizzle of honey coming up strongly behind that. The palate develops into a marshmallow and vanilla sweetness, dusted with cookie spices, along with the pine needles carrying over from the nose. The finish folded over and ran with the vanilla.

The Price
At $55 a bottle, this is almost double the price of the standard EC Rye. Of course, making it is more expensive, even more so than a normal cask finished whiskey. I always think of double new oak whiskeys as being at their best as a dessert whiskey tipple, and this one is no exception. So as to whether it is worth the steep mark-up or not, I think that depends very much on individual tastes. A drinker with a strong fondness for any two of the following–rye whiskey, double new oak aging or dessert whiskey–will find the price tag well worth it. As marked up as it is compared to its counterpart, regular rye, it is still a little cheaper than some of its alternatives as a double new oaked whiskey.

 

Caol Ila 17 Year Old Scotch Review

By Alex Southgate Rating: A- It’s nice to try something new. It’s even nicer to be given the opportunity to be one of the first to try something and this is why I’m currently feeling both honored and excited in equal measure: Halcyon Spirits newest expression is a 17 year old Caol Ila. This whiskey …

By Alex Southgate

Rating: A-

Halcyon Spirits Caol Ila 17 Year Old
(Credit: Halcyon Spirits)

It’s nice to try something new. It’s even nicer to be given the opportunity to be one of the first to try something and this is why I’m currently feeling both honored and excited in equal measure: Halcyon Spirits newest expression is a 17 year old Caol Ila. This whiskey won’t be available for purchase until the beginning of October, so it’s great to get a sneak peek at what’s coming.

This is the fifth release from brothers Daniel and Craig Milne over at Halcyon Spirits. Made back in 2007 and bottled at a cask strength of 56%, the production run on this single cask release has been limited to 273 bottles. This being said, and as with many of Halcyon’s releases, this might be the perfect addition for the collectors amongst you.

Caol Ila was erected in 1846, and is one of the biggest of the famed Islay distilleries. It’s also known as one of the more lightly peated of the Islay whiskies, as well as a major ingredient for Johnnie Walker and Black Bottle.

The Scotch
On the pour, the Caol Ila is a rich honey in hue and beautifully clear to the eye. This is an easy pouring malt, leaving very faint legs as it moves around the glass. I love it when I get the scent of a whiskey on the pour and this is very much the case here. There is something very inviting about getting a delicious aroma even before raising the class to your nose.

Before I even lifted the glass I was getting a scent of soft spices. Nutmeg and cinnamon combined with the most delightful baked notes wafted straight from the glass. As I raised it to my nose these notes deepened and were backed by the dry undertone of leather. These aromas lift to reveal juicy fruit. Winter berries are complemented by a heavy hit of spice. The finish is milk chocolate with just a splash of cream.

This is a really punchy whisky and your taste buds start dancing the moment it hits your tongue. The initial flavor is spicy. The notes of cinnamon I mentioned earlier are present and paired with coarse black pepper. These notes carry and are met with baked wheat, leading to a finish that is warm, buttery and savory.

I said that the last expression from Halcyon was one for fans of a savory tipple but this is even more so. This is the perfect dram for a cold winter evening. I often get a mental image when I’m drinking a scotch for the first time. This time it’s one of entering your house when it’s freezing outside and being met by the scents of freshly baked cakes. This whisky embodies the feeling of coming home perfectly and I’d love to enjoy a bottle on a chilly October evening.

I’d be very happy to add the Caol Ila to my collection and I have to take my hat off to Halcyon for another excellent release. I’m not usually a fan of very punchy whisky but I’m more than happy to overlook that in this case. This might be a little too early to say but this might well be a candidate for one of my favorites of 2024.

The Price
The Caol Ila 17YO from Halcyon Spirits is due to retail at £150 for those of us here in the UK.

 

Redbreast 18 Year Old Irish Whiskey Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: A- New Midleton is solely responsible for keeping the legacy of Irish pot still whiskey, based on a mix of malted and unmalted barley, alive. Although that style of whiskey figures in most everything they make, it was the re-launch of the brand Redbreast in 1991 that was instrumental in reviving …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A-

Redbreast 18 Year Old Single Pot Still Whiskey
(Credit: Irish Distillers)

New Midleton is solely responsible for keeping the legacy of Irish pot still whiskey, based on a mix of malted and unmalted barley, alive. Although that style of whiskey figures in most everything they make, it was the re-launch of the brand Redbreast in 1991 that was instrumental in reviving the distinctively Irish identity of single pot still whiskey for the modern drinker. Now New Midleton has put a new rung on the Redbreast ladder, this time in the middle: Redbreast 18 Year Old.

Single pot still whiskey is a spin-off from the single malt whiskey being made in Ireland up until 1785, when the British Crown made another effort at profiting off the hard work of the Irish people by slapping a tax on malted barley. The distillers partly dodged this tax by using the characteristic unmalted and malted barley mix (sometimes with other grains too) that characterized Irish Whiskey through its 19th Century heyday. At New Midleton, they make a few different versions of pot still whiskey, and all of it is triple distilled. But like single malt, it all comes from the same plant.

This whiskey was aged in a variety of cask stocks: ex-bourbon barrels, Oloroso Sherry casks, Ruby Port pipes, and (this is the unusual kicker choice) Cream Sherry casks. Master Blender Dave McCabe said of the latter choice, “By incorporating cream sherry casks, we’ve created a whiskey that boasts a rich profile of dark chocolate, blackcurrants, and hazelnuts.” This middle-aged Redbreast was bottled at 46% ABV.

The Whiskey
My pour took on a dull, light amber look in the Glencairn. I found the nose to have a current of that pumpernickel and molasses that one so often finds in the American malted ryes. But there was also an earthy, nutty side to the whiskey, as well as a note of lemon zest and a robust spiciness. The palate opened rather woody, but not unduly so, before returning to a cocoa and nutty earthiness combined with boozy dark berries spiced with cinnamon. That turns peppery on the back end, before rolling into a better balanced berries-cum-cinnamon finish.

The Price
Redbreast 18 Year Old should fetch $250 a bottle.

 

Bruichladdich Octomore 15.2 Scotch Review

By Richard Thomas Rating: B+ The providence for Bruichladdich’s Octomore 15.2 is (as follows the pattern for the Octomore series broadly) is similar to that of Octomore 15.1. It too is a distillate from a wash of 100% mainland Scotland-grown Concerto barley, which was also peated to 108.2 ppm. Where it diverges is in the …

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B+

Bruichladdich Octomore 15.2
(Credit: Bruichladdich)

The providence for Bruichladdich’s Octomore 15.2 is (as follows the pattern for the Octomore series broadly) is similar to that of Octomore 15.1. It too is a distillate from a wash of 100% mainland Scotland-grown Concerto barley, which was also peated to 108.2 ppm. Where it diverges is in the cask stock: 42% of the total volume was aged in second-fill wine casks and the rest in second-fill bourbon barrels. As a rule, it is fair to say that second-fill wood may have some influence of the wood itself remaining (so American and presumably European oak), but not as much as new oak to be sure, and little or no influence from the fill-liquid remains (so no bourbon or wine). Where the wood stock becomes more than a breathable container comes in the finishing cask choice, which was first-fill Cognac. The use of Cognac casks is a novel choice for Octomore.

The whisky was aged for five years and bottled at 57.9% ABV.

The Scotch
The choice of primary maturation wood for this single malt tells straight away, because the coloring is straw. The nose leads with the scent of fruity white wine, with notes of apples and peaches, with supplementary touches of cookie spices and dry wood. The mouthfeel is quite oily, and that oily aspect extends into the flavor profile as well. Otherwise it is equally fruit sweet and cinnamon spicy, with a touch of ash rounding it out. The finish runs with that touch of ash and carries it off into its goodbyes.

The Price
Expect to pay $245 for a bottle of Octomore 15.2.