Author: Whisky Advocate

Dair Ghaelach Kylebeg Wood Continues Midleton’s Focus on Irish Oak

These whiskeys matured for 13 to 25 years in first-fill and refill bourbon barrels before a 15 month finish in lightly toasted Irish oak casks.

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Seven oaks were felled in Kylebeg Wood in 2015 for the virgin Irish oak hogsheads used in this fourth Dair Ghaelach release, part of a project dating back to 2008 uniting themes of biodiversity, sustainability, and traceability around Irish oak. Whiskeys matured for 13 to 25 years in first-fill and refill American oak bourbon barrels were finished in these lightly toasted Irish oak casks for 15 months, the open structure of the wood readily adding color and flavor to the single pot still whiskeys. Across the release, we found a spectrum of whiskey aromas but a consistency of caramel, fruit, and toffee flavors on the palate, with subtle differences in sweetness and spice.

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaelach Kylebeg Wood Reviewed

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 5)
92 points, 56%, $340
A delicious nose of heather honey, baked peach, dried apricot, fresh oak, and clotted cream on warm scones, with a twist of black pepper and ground ginger. The way the fruitiness breaks through the wall of ginger and pepper, enabling the baked peach, apple, sweet honey, and toffee to assert themselves is rather wonderful. Waves of sweetness and vanilla break over stone fruit, leaving a roasted coffee finish.—Jonny McCormick

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 6)
92 points, 55.4%, $340
This one is all about the wood spices and oak up front, backed by runny caramel, banana split, lime zest, and cooking apple spices. The Irish oak spices run riotously, with flavors of vanilla, toffee, baked apple, and nougat settling down reluctantly once cosseted by the indulgent taste of banoffee pie and milk chocolate. More a lovable rogue than an outright troublemaker.—Jonny McCormick

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 1)
90 points, 55.6%, $340
An attractive nose of vanilla, fresh oak, butterscotch, lemon balm, bread crust, caramel, coconut, and dried banana places this example in the middle ground. Smooth on the taste buds with a continuity of flavors from sniff to swallow, there is honey, butterscotch, orange peel, soft oak, peppery spice, and stone fruits; it brings in vanilla and caramel and ends with notes of oak, spice, and dried fruit.—Jonny McCormick

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 4)
90 points, 56%, $340
An agreeable combination of crystalized honey, melon, and conference pear develops, with vanilla sponge cake, beeswax candles, cream soda, and light baking spices. The balance and contrast work well, highlighting gentle honeyed fruits, a strong vanilla flavor, dried fruits, and a surge in peppery spice. The latter phase comes close to Tree 2 in this release, with soothing mocha notes.—Jonny McCormick

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 2)
89 points, 56.1%, $340
Sweet toffee, whole lemon, rose-scented air freshener, black pepper, charred oak, crème anglaise, green apple, and a hint of spearmint. The palate is sweet too, showcasing an array of barley notes, caramel, cinnamon, and chocolate, developing more malty characteristics that draw in cocoa and notes of peppermint. The finish is gentle with cocoa with a soft oakiness.—Jonny McCormick

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 7)
89 points, 55.9%, $340
Steel yourself for a spicy encounter of cinnamon, cardamom, and seasoned oak spices, combining effortlessly with notes of walnut, vanilla, tropical fruits, blossom honey, and water biscuit. The flavors approach the cask-strength spicy summit with toffee, dried fruit, and apricot, followed by green melon, malted barley, and chocolate on the other side. Perfectly decent, but it occupies more familiar virgin oak territory than its contemporaries.—Jonny McCormick

Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 3)
88 points, 56%, $340
Floral with a perfumed bouquet, the nose picks out creamy rice pudding, ground ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, fresh oak, caramel, and cotton candy. With a focus on fruity sweetness, vanilla fudge, and green apple notes, this peaks with clove-led spices and Red Vines, showing its high strength. As the sweetness wanes, it ends with red apple and vanilla on a short dry finish.—Jonny McCormick

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Dalmore Decades Captures a Half a Century of Single Malt Scotch

Only 15 numbered sets of the No. 5 Collection, which includes expressions with ages spanning five decades, were released worldwide.

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No stranger to luxury, Dalmore released one of the highest-priced collections of the year with its No. 5 Collection, which includes expressions with ages spanning five decades. Worldwide, only 15 numbered sets were released. The launch included a single No. 6 Collection that included a sixth bottle—Dalmore 1951—that sold for $899,305 at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, plus a non-fungible token (NFT) of the four-bottle No. 4 Collection, which sold for $137,000 on BlockBar. Beyond simply being a masterclass in oloroso sherry maturation, handpicked vintage port casks and select wine barrels have been deployed to enhance the depth of flavor, while each bottle is tied to an important moment in the distillery’s history.

Dalmore Decades Reviewed

The Dalmore Decades 53 year old “Expertly Composed Spirit” 1967
95 points, 42.5%, $275,000/ 5 bottle set
One to study intensely; the aromas come into focus with espresso foam, chocolate mousse, black currant sauce, maraschino cherry, raspberry, walnut, and white chocolate. It experienced a secondary maturation in tawny port pipes, with a finish in Chateau Mont-Redon barrels. Sumptuous mouthfeel with earthy red wine, morello cherry, red velvet cake, fresh cranberry, ginger, and dark toffee, ending with deep sticky port notes that pull the spices together. It’s a show stopper.—Jonny McCormick

The Dalmore Decades 20 year old “Into the New Millennium” 2000
94 points, 47%, $275,000/5 bottle set
Distilled just after midnight on January 1, 2000, this was fully matured in Matusalem oloroso sherry butts, and it’s glorious. Slivers of pata negra, tangerine peel, honey-roasted nuts, cinnamon, ground ginger, baked apple slices, and boozy vine fruit exude from the glass. Savor the richness of chocolate, sherry, fig, date, maraschino cherry, coffee grounds, treacle tart, and bramble, with a dry finish of toasted pecan, espresso, and licorice. Impressively good.—Jonny McCormick

The Dalmore Decades 40 year old “Curating Exquisite Casks” 1979
93 points, 41.5%, $275,000/5 bottle set
Finished in a vintage port pipe after spending much of its life in Matusalem sherry butts, this fruity dram has aromas of plum pudding, fruitcake soaked in port and sherry, sliced almond, rose-flavored Turkish delight, marmalade, honey, and fragrant spices. Sweet and nutty on the tongue, with baked plum and orange, restrained port notes, marmalade, cocoa, and black coffee. The flavors ebb away with cocktail cherries, red Twizzlers, and black currant.—Jonny McCormick

The Dalmore Decades 25 year old “The Creation of an Icon” 1995
93 points, 42.5%, $275,000/5 bottle set
Complex, intricate, and sophisticated aromas of red gooseberry, Seville orange, cumin, wood spice, honey, marron glacé, tobacco leaf, scorched oak, and the tartness of blush-pink brambles. After leaving a Graham’s vintage port pipe to be finished in barrels that held Tintilla de Rota, a sweet fortified Spanish wine, it emerges jammy and full-bodied, with damson, black currant jelly, soft licorice, cooking apple, vanilla essence, buttered gingerbread, marzipan, cocoa, and red grape skins.—Jonny McCormick

The Dalmore Decades 40 year old “Unbroken Chain of Visionaries” 1980
91 points, 40.8%, $275,000/5 bottle set
A daring experiment, reversing the maturation sequence to incorporate a five-year finish in first-fill bourbon, this amber-gold liquid has vanilla custard, honey, candied peel, crème caramel, toasted coconut shreds, and whipped egg white on the nose. Rich, soothing, and still swathed in sherry notes, it basks in vanilla, Seville orange, banana muffin, crème caramel, and green melon flavors, plus sweet oranges speckled with sherry.—Jonny McCormick

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Spring 2022 Best Values: The Whistler, Cutty Sark, James Ownby

An Irish blend finished in stout casks, a 12 year old blended scotch, and a Tennessee bourbon all earned high marks at affordable prices.

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In each issue of Whisky Advocate, the editors select three great value bottles: whiskies with solid scores, modest prices, and wide availability. For the Spring 2022 issue, a stout-finished Irish whiskey, aged scotch blend, and Tennessee bourbon all ranked as Best Values.

Check out the Buying Guide for a complete list of whiskies reviewed in the Spring 2022 issue.

HIGH SCORES, LOW PRICES: BEST VALUE WHISKIES

The Whistler Imperial Stout Cask Finish Blended Irish (Batch 002)
92 points, 43%, $40
Deploying sherry casks seasoned with O’Hara’s Brewery’s stout, this delivers a delightful balance of fresh fruit and chocolate notes, with aromas of sweet vanilla, malt, coffee, orange, and melon. Charming sherry and light berry notes initially, a beautiful slow-paced development from the stout influence ensues, as the texture thickens satisfyingly with citrus, gentle spices, vine fruit, ginger nuts, crystalized pineapple, malty chocolate, and mocha. (3,000 bottles for the U.S.)—Jonny McCormick

Cutty Sark 12 year old Blended Scotch
90 points, 40%, $27
Returning this stalwart, the first new Cutty Sark since La Martiniquaise took charge of the ship, seemed a safe bet, but they’ve done it so well. Apricot, golden sultana, caramel, honeydew melon, honey, and vanilla meet cumin, cardamom, Parma violets, and orange jelly bean aromas. Richly flavored but lightly textured, there’s lemon bonbon, sugar-dusted churro, vanilla custard, cinder toffee, hazelnut, and sharp apple acidity. It’s like sunshine rippling on the ocean.—Jonny McCormick

James Ownby Tennessee Straight Bourbon
88 points, 47%, $40
This is a bit shy on the nose at first, yielding a mild mustiness that calls to mind meandering up and down the aisles of an antique shop. After spending more time with it, fruit comes forward: strawberry syrup, cherry-dipped soft serve, tart ripe raspberries, and orange peel. Light fruit leads the palate, with raspberry jam and dark chocolate-covered bing cherries complemented by Big Red gum. The finish trails off to bitter espresso. (48,000 bottles)—Julia Higgins

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Spring 2022 Editors’ Choice: Barrell, Waterford, Ammunition

A cask strength bourbon, Irish single malt, and Cabernet Sauvignon finished bourbon all scored top marks in the Spring 2022 issue.

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In each issue of Whisky Advocate, the editors select three whiskies they consider to be the most impressive, based on score, price, and availability. For Spring 2022, our Editors’ Choice selections include a cask strength bourbon, an Irish single malt, and a cabernet sauvignon-finished bourbon.

Check out the Buying Guide for a complete list of whiskies reviewed in the Spring 2022 issue.

STANDOUT WHISKIES FROM Spring 2022

Barrell New Year Cask Strength Bourbon (2022 Edition)
92 points, 57.67%, $90
Licorice, cocoa powder, dark chocolate, raspberry jelly, fragrant wild herbs, whiffs of polished oak, and a hint of bubble gum on the nose. The palate offers strawberry shortcake, allspice, ground chile pepper, and bitter espresso. Water brings out more peppery spice and dark chocolate. Excellent length on the finish, with semi-sweet chocolate cake, plum tart, cherry coulis, and savory spice at the back. Spicy, rich, lively, and flavorful. (18,000 bottles)—David Fleming

Waterford The Cuvée
91 points, 50%, $105
Crisp red apple, tangerine peel, lime zest, pink stems of rhubarb, green banana, and hints of gooseberry make for a fruity proposition; in fact, one of the freshest whiskeys I’ve ever nosed. Apple remains the core flavor, with pepper, clove, ginger, aniseed, fudge sweetness, and a final flourish of red berries. Water coaxes out watermelon juiciness and mollifies the spices, turning this into a delectably refreshing sipper. (10,000 bottles for the U.S.)—Jonny McCormick

Ammunition Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Finished Bourbon
90 points, 45%, $50
Sweet lemon drops and key lime pie on a fruit-forward nose, with hints of licorice and fragrant oak. Water brings out vanilla, bitter cherry, and sweeter notes of fruit cocktail. Spice and sweetness on the palate—and finish—of vanilla cream, citrus, and red berry notes, plus cinnamon cake, allspice, and coffee, balanced with pleasant oak and earthiness. Well made, with pronounced but balanced and well-integrated flavors. (120,000 bottles)—David Fleming

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Spring 2022 Collectibles: Johnnie Walker, GlenDronach, WhistlePig

A 48 year old blended scotch, 50 year old single malt scotch, and cask strength rye whiskey all qualify as instant collectibles.

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In every issue of Whisky Advocate, we recommend three whiskies that are generally limited releases and show the most potential to gain value. For Spring 2022, the top choices came from Scotland and the United States.

Check out the Buying Guide for a complete list of whiskies reviewed in the Spring 2022 issue.

TOP COLLECTIBLE WHISKIES

Johnnie Walker 48 year old Master of Flavor
96 points, 41.8%, $25,000
Master blender Jim Beveridge’s career finale draws on stocks from seven distilleries, producing a marriage of toffee, marzipan fruit, sweet grain, vanilla, and rich tropical fruits, with the smoke lapping in waves. Remarkably, the grain leads from the front, the flavors gathering momentum, drawing in ever richer notes encompassing soft fruits, sweet smokiness, citrus, lemon peel, and dried fruit, concluding with black fruits and vanilla essence. A work of genius. (288 bottles)—Jonny McCormick

GlenDronach 50 year old
95 points, 43.8%, $25,000
The oldest GlenDronach expression ever released, matured in two separate sherry casks—PX and oloroso—then married and finished in a single PX cask for 1 year. The age is apparent from the mahogany color. A sumptuous nose is laden with aged sherry and layers of baked dark fruits, black cherry, and peach pie. Wild berries and dark chocolate truffle cake punctuate the palate, with overtones of cigar box and rich espresso. (198 bottles)—David Fleming

WhistlePig The Boss Hog VIII: Lapulapu’s Pacific
91 points, 52.4%, $500
Earthy and pleasantly pungent on the nose, softening in the glass and yielding to aromas of cooked dark fruit, figs, raisins, and nougat. The palate is chewy, rich, and has balanced heat—offering flavors of raspberry preserves and other jammy fruits, along with cinnamon and dark chocolate. Excellent length on a finish of sweet vanilla and more cinnamon, plus subtle red fruit, sweet corn, and an earthy note at the end.—David Fleming

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Flip It and Reverse It [Cocktail Recipe]

Silky and boozy, this cocktail combines blended whiskey with amaro, tiki spices syrup, milk stout, and an egg.

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This drink was created by Jess Keene, co-owner of Keene Record Hospitality. Keene describes this as “a leisurely and deliberate ride into a silky and boozy abyss.”

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Bear Hug [Cocktail Recipe]

This cocktail is meant to give the feeling of a warm embrace, with Tennessee whiskey mixing with espresso syrup, heavy cream, and Coca-Cola.

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This cocktail was created by Toki Sears, former lead bartender at Bar Margot at Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta. “There is nothing more invigorating and that will put a smile on your face than a strong, tight, cozy hug from a friend or loved one—or this drink!” Sears says. “The espresso and soda provide a pick-me-up on a long winter’s day, while the flavors play well together in a palate-pleasing and nostalgic way.”

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Nuts Roasting on an Open Fire [Cocktail Recipe]

Nutty amaretto combines with Firewater bitters for this cocktail that takes its name from a classic holiday image.

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This cocktail was created by Anthony Baker, cocktail and spirits educator for Momentum Mixology and Little Owl Events. The name gives it away: Nuts (amaretto) roast on an open fire (Firewater bitters), which give way to smoke (Islay scotch). “The amaro balances out the sweet components, and the heavy cream lends richness to sustain [during] the cold weather,” Baker says.

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Ciudad Paraíso [Cocktail Recipe]

Get tropical with this cocktail which mixes bourbon with falernum, coconut milk, and a coconut water hibiscus shrub.

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Spanish for “Paradise City,” this tropical combination was created by Andra “AJ” Johnson, beverage director of Serenata and Zumo, Washington, D.C. This drink will transport your taste buds to the warm islands no matter what the temperature is outside.

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10 Highest Scoring Whiskies From the Winter 2021 Buying Guide

These whiskies from Kilchoman, Laphroaig, Dalmore, Hibiki, Peerless, and more all scored high marks in the Winter 2021 issue.

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The Winter 2021 issue of Whisky Advocate is all about connecting you with great whisky. There are over 150 whisky reviews inside, including our annual Top 20 list, which celebrates an exciting year of high-quality and affordable drams. Our Whisky of the Year is a stout-finished Islay single malt scotch, but the full list includes value bourbons, surprising world whiskies, complex blended malts, and more.

Elsewhere in the issue, we help you plan a year of whisky spending based on four different budgets and interest levels, and survey the rich landscape of 21 year old scotch. Of course, there is perhaps no greater resource than our Buying Guide, which spans multiple styles and continents to deliver well-considered tasting notes. In each issue we provide Editors’ Choice, Best Values, and Collectibles picks, but beyond those, there is still plenty of whisky to consider. The highest-scoring whiskies from the Winter issue, include familiar names like Laphroaig and Booker’s as well as a few surprises. Germany’s Eifel Whisky nets 94 points with its Peated Duo Malt, while Speyside’s Glenallachie impresses with a 10 year old single malt aged in American oak barrels and then placed into Kentucky rye casks.

Check out the 10 highest-scoring whiskies below and visit the Winter 2021 Buying Guide for the full slate of reviews.

TOP SCORES FROM WHISKY ADVOCATE’S Winter 2021 ISSUE

Kilchoman Loch Gorm Sherry Cask Matured (2021 Edition)
94 points, 46%, $100

Peat smoke and fresh maritime notes on the nose, rope tar, lime, black pepper, and medicinal hints of Band-Aid and iodine. On the palate, black peat embers blend into milk chocolate, luscious dark fruits, and espresso macchiato. The finish is viscous and smooth, and has excellent length. There’s plenty of smoke, but also lively fruit notes of orange, blackberries, and black currants. There is a real elegance to this whisky. (2,040 bottles for the U.S.)—David Fleming

Eifel Whisky German Peated Duo Malt 2021 Edition
94 points, 46%, $90

A nose of Nestle Crunch bar, dates, smoke from green wood, golden syrup, vanilla seeds, cherry gummy bears, and a medley of dried fruits. Respectfully, with its 4:1 mashbill ratio of malted wheat and barley to 35 ppm peated malt, it’s like a fine blended scotch that costs ten times more. The flavors are in perfect balance with a distinctive red wine influence, with dark toffee, black cherry, black currant, runny caramel, and an up-tempo spiciness. (2,400 bottles)—Jonny McCormick

Laphroaig 25 year old Cask Strength (2020)
94 points, 49.8%, $750

A cask strength whisky, but don’t expect a rambunctious blisterer. Age has given this one a mellowed beauty. It offers a deep, rich, soft peat influence on a thick and creamy palate, with dried seaweed, seashells, salinity, brine, charcoal, and muted medicinal notes—all imbued with sweet oak, lime, chocolate-covered marshmallows, and light pepper. Cooked pears, chocolate, and vanilla cream complete the finish. The peat has settled in, and a marvelous, mature whisky rises.—David Fleming

Booker’s 2021-02 “Tagalong Batch” Kentucky Straight bourbon
93 points, 63.95%, $90

The fifth edition of distiller Freddie Noe’s signature annual release. This is a weighty one, in classic Booker’s fashion—rich, full, and powerful, loaded with chocolate, cocoa powder, candied orange slices, dark chocolate, melted caramel, and cinnamon spice. Water quells the flavor riot, softening to notes of vanilla and vanilla malt, chocolate candy bar, and leather. The finish is spicy, with more chocolate and orange. There’s nothing shy about this tasty sipper.—David Fleming

Dalmore 30 year old (2021 Release)
93 points, 42.8%, $5,500

Dark and gleaming from the port pipes that contained Graham’s 30 year old tawny port, this revels in a nose of treacle tart, polished horse chestnut, baked orange, walnut, and Luxardo cherry syrup. A decadent palate of sweet orange, cherry, baked plum desserts, poached pears in cream, and a hint of nuttiness and spice, it finishes darkly with inky purple fruits, black grape, and Airheads blue raspberry chew bars. (1,318 bottles)—Jonny McCormick

Hibiki 21 year old
93 points, 43%, $350

Deep layers of vanilla and mizunara oak with sugar sprinkled pastries, incense sticks, oiled wood, tatami, dried apricot, golden sultana, and faint smoky spiciness. Nectarous mouthfeel with honey, barley sugar, dried citrus, orange peel, and delicate spices, it continues to sweeten beautifully showing vanilla, sugared almonds, banana custard, with hints of ginger and gentle oak. Slightly gummy finish as the vanilla quenches little eruptions of wood spices.—Jonny McCormick

Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength
93 points, 60%, $90

Sweet scents of Boston cream pie, citrus, and fresh forest, growing more fragrant as the liquid rests in the glass. On the palate, the citrus sweetens to baked orange tart and lemon meringue pie, with underpinnings of chocolate malt, raisins, and pepper spice. The mouthfeel is creamy and concentrated, and the finish is like a rich, full, spiced chocolate dessert. Water enhances things, bringing out more spice and chocolate.—David Fleming

Peerless Single Barrel Straight (150812100)
93 points, 55.7%, $124

The nose is filled with depth and spice, melding with blackberry and other cooked dark fruit notes. On the palate, rice pudding, vanilla cream, rich dark chocolate, and blueberry pie are laced with savory spice. The mouthfeel is smooth and creamy, with little hint of the high proof. It’s even smoother with water, unlocking cinnamon spice, grape jam, and more chocolate. The finish is deep, jammy, and long, with loads of spice.—David Fleming

Glenallachie 10 year old Rye Wood Finished
93 points, 48%, $100

On the nose, there’s roasted almond, fragrant butterscotch, toffee, lemon, and oak, plus vanilla, lemon meringue, sweet malt, and a hint of melon. The palate has notes of vanilla cake, pleasant soapiness, sweet tea, rich chocolate, a hint of coconut, and alluring flavors of blueberry cobbler and raspberry tart. The finish is long, lively, and beautifully punctuated with fruit notes, dark chocolate, and a parting song of oak. Loaded with great, well-integrated flavors.—David Fleming

Glenfiddich 21 year old Reserva Rum Cask Finish
93 points, 40%, $210

Rich, sweet, and fruity with baked apples drizzled in honey, crisp white pear, honeysuckle, dried banana, vanilla fudge, and pecan pie. This works so well with the nascent Glenfiddich spirit; lime zest, vanilla, foamy meringue, honey blossom sweetness, and pepper transitioning to lime shred marmalade, soft oak, and a dry spicy finish. Vibrant, stimulating, sophisticated, and so well balanced that it never risks becoming overly sweet.—Jonny McCormick

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