Barrel Finished Bourbons: Exploring the Range of Styles

Secondary casks like sherry, port, brandy and more enhance and expand bourbon’s flavor and texture.

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Barrel finishing is a long-established practice in scotch, but a far more recent phenomenon in American whiskey. That’s mainly because bourbon, by definition, must be matured in new charred oak barrels. Put bourbon into a barrel that isn’t new and charred and it technically becomes a whisky specialty, more commonly called finished bourbon.

A few weeks or months in a secondary cask can elevate the bourbon, transforming it in subtle ways. “It changes [the bourbon], and we think it changes it for the better,” says Bob D’Antoni, chief barrel officer at Four Gate Whiskey Co. The blender and bottler releases cask-finished whiskey almost exclusively, with secondary vessels ranging from sherry, port, and rum, to custom barrels made by Kelvin Cooperage.

The enjoyment of finished bourbon has gained steam in the decade since Angel’s Envy debuted as the first widely available example of the style. Today dozens of finishes, from port, tequila, and armagnac, to chardonnay and rhum agricole, offer bourbon lovers an array of new flavors to explore—and the opportunity to dive deep into geekdom by sipping the finished bourbon alongside the spirit or wine type whose barrels were used in the finishing.

Sherry

Long used by scotch makers to finish single malts, sherry casks impart their influence more subtly on the robust flavor and texture of bourbon. Among the several styles of sherry, distillers most commonly turn to just two for finishing purposes: oloroso, which has dried fruit and nut flavors, and Pedro Ximénez, which exudes sweet, chocolaty richness.

Sherry can only be made in Jerez, Spain, where traditional bodegas use the solera system to maintain consistency of flavor across vintages. Casks are never totally emptied; older wine is removed for bottling and replaced by younger wine, and so on. Most solera casks remain in use for decades, so distillers looking for finishing casks often buy purpose-made ones that have been “seasoned,” or filled with sherry for a year or two before moving on to their finishing role.

Firestone & Robertson TX PX Cask Finished
92 points, 50.8%, $65

Firestone & Robertson’s 4 year old TX straight bourbon is finished for 8 months in 20 year old Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. Jammy fruit and dark chocolate-covered nuts form a foundation for ponzu-like citrus and umami notes.

Legent
88 points, 47%, $35

Jim Beam master distiller Fred Noe collaborated with Suntory master blender Shinji Fukuyo to create this bourbon, with a maturation that includes French oak red wine cask-finished, oloroso sherry-finished, and unfinished bourbons. Nutty grain, red fruit, and lively spices.

Belle Meade Sherry Cask Finished
87 points, 45.2%, $80

This bourbon, sourced from MGP by Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery, spends 3 to 10 months in oloroso sherry casks. Vanilla, cherry sundae, cocoa, subtle spices, and drying oak. Bakery shop, cinnamon toast, Honey Nut Cheerios, and sweet cereal grains emerge with time in the glass.

Try the Finish: Lustau Don Nuño Dry Oloroso Sherry—20%, $25

Port

The grapes in Portugal’s Douro Valley grow on steeply terraced hillsides, but port itself is typically aged in the cool, humid cellars of Porto, where casks are reused for decades. Like sherry, port comes in a variety of styles, with the most common, ruby, offering bright fruit notes due to its minimal maturation. Tawny port, which is often aged for a decade or longer to maximize oxidation, showcases nutty flavors.

Angel’s Envy uses ruby port casks for its flagship expression, which launched in 2011. “It had some anticipated effects”—like adding sweetness and berry flavors—“and some unanticipated contributions,” says co-founder and chief innovation officer Wes Henderson of the initial finishing experiments. “What we didn’t really think about was what the mouthfeel, viscosity, and finish would be like.” He explains that the residual grape particles in the cask create a mouth-coating texture. “[The port cask] also takes off some of the perception of higher alcohols, which makes it one of those bourbons that’s very drinkable,” he adds.

thomas s moore port cask finished bourbonThomas S. Moore Port Cask Finished
93 points, 49.45%, $70

This 5 year old bourbon from Barton 1792 is finished in ruby port casks for an average of 3 years. Baking spice, brown sugar, cola, dark chocolate, candied orange peel, fig jam, and toasted pecans.

Angel’s Envy Port Cask Finished
88 points, 43.3%, $50

Angel’s Envy didn’t intend to focus on cask-finishing, but it worked out so well that it’s now the brand’s hallmark. Dried cherries and strawberries, cinnamon sugar, and chocolate. With water, tart cherry cobbler.

Chattanooga Tawny Port Cask Finished
88 points, 47.5%, $45

Made using six of the distillery’s high-malt mashbills, this is aged for 3 years before being transferred to tawny port casks for a 6-month finish. Roasted walnuts, dark berries, semi-sweet chocolate, and plums.

Try the Finish: Churchill’s Reserve Port—20%, $18

Red Wine

Port and sherry have relatively forceful profiles as fortified wines, but delicate table wines are a different story. “The most important piece is how we transport the barrels,” says Dan Callaway of Bardstown Bourbon Co. (BBC), which has made several red wine-finished bourbons. Rather than rinsing the casks—the standard procedure, which removes leftover wine that could spoil in transit—BBC’s partner wineries leave the dregs and fill the casks with argon gas before shipping them to the distillery in refrigerated trucks. This ensures the integrity of the wine that remains in the wood. “What that does is bring a richness, a roundness, a viscosity that you can’t get in any other way,” Callaway says, adding that the residual wine also brings down the bourbon’s proof while retaining full flavor.

Red blends, zinfandels, and other varietals have all been partnered with bourbon, but producers largely favor robust reds like cabernet sauvignon. Callaway prizes cabernet for its hearty tannins and dark fruit notes, which marry seamlessly with bourbon.

Bardstown Bourbon Co. The Prisoner Wine Barrel Finished
92 points, 50%, $125

The barrels for this red blend each held a single varietal wine, so BBC did five separate finishes and blended them together. Chocolate fudge, coconut, cinnamon, and baking spice.

Daviess County Cabernet Sauvignon Cask Finished
89 points, 48%, $45

From Lux Row Distillers, this is a combination of two bourbon mashbills—one wheated, one made with rye—finished for 6 months. Black plum, red Hawaiian Punch, raisin, clove, and cinnamon.

Three Chord Strange Collaboration
89 points, 49.5%, $50

A blend of bourbons from Barton 1792 and Green River distilleries, finished in California’s Strange Family Vineyards French oak pinot noir casks. Spice, cocoa, and cooked blueberries and cherries.

Try the Finish: The Prisoner Red Blend—15.2%, $49

Brandy

As whisky is made from grain, brandy is made from fruit—usually grapes, but sometimes apples, pears, or peaches. The most well-known brandies come from France: cognac, armagnac, and apple-based calvados. But American-made brandy is becoming more common, especially with distilleries like Copper & Kings—located in the heart of bourbon country—focused on homegrown styles that appeal to whiskey lovers.

Brandy’s fruit notes partner well with bourbon’s grain-driven sweetness. “The inherent fruitiness of Woodford Reserve is emboldened by the cognac’s influence,” says master distiller Chris Morris of the distillery’s Baccarat Edition. He explains that XO cognacs (aged at least 6 years) share similar flavors with the bourbon, including toffee, nuts, and herbal notes, and that his goal is to enhance those characteristics with the finishing cask. “We make sure of this by entering the fully mature Woodford Reserve in the cognac casks at a very low entry proof so the fruit character is not overwhelmed and can shine through,” Morris adds.

Blood Oath Pact 6
91 points, 49.3%, $100

Master blender John Rempe combined two straight bourbons at 8 and 14 years old with a 7 year old bourbon finished in cognac casks.Concord grape jelly, Cherry Coke, dark chocolate, and roasted nuts.

joseph magnus cigar blend bourbonJoseph Magnus Cigar Blend
91 points, 56.5%, $179

Designed to pair with your favorite smoke, this is finished in both cognac and armagnac, as well as oloroso sherry casks. Chocolate cream pie, brown sugar, apple, cinnamon and blueberry. A whiskey that combines power and finesse.

Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition
88 points, 45.2%, $1,500

XO cognac casks create an unorthodox but enjoyable bourbon. Marshmallow, coconut, chocolate-covered almonds, popcorn, and pepper spice. The finish is lengthy, presenting baking spice, cracked pepper, and polished oak

Try the Finish: Delamain Pale & Dry XO Cognac—40%, $125

Other Finishes

With cask-finishing still relatively novel in the bourbon world, there’s plenty to learn about how the whiskey interacts with its secondary vessel—and sherry, port, red wine, and brandy are merely the initial forays. Not all experiments meet with universal appeal; Whisky Advocate rated an orange curaçao cask-finished bourbon from Bardstown Bourbon Co. a mere 81 points, finding it overly sweet and unbalanced. Yet the 2018 Parker’s Heritage Collection bourbon was also finished in orange curaçao casks and scored 90 points.

Some producers are broadening the template by employing casks that previously held more than one wine or spirit—including, sometimes, a past bourbon. Four Gate Whiskey Co. is known for its doubled-up cask finishes, as well as its blends of multiple cask-finished bourbons. With more variables to consider, the process is extra complicated. “We don’t want to overcook anything,” says D’Antoni, noting that he and chief blending officer Bill Straub sample barrels weekly. “We’re more apt to pull [the whiskey] early than late” to prevent the finish from dominating.

Finishing casks now encompass just about any alcohol that could conceivably be matured in wood, including beer, white and rosé wines, madeira, tequila, rum, shochu, other whiskies like scotch and single pot still Irish, and obscure fortified wines like mistelle and pineau des Charentes. Producers are even turning to non-potable substances, like maple syrup and honey, to season casks that are later used for bourbon finishes. In the right hands, the cask’s influences should meld seamlessly with the underlying whiskey, making for a truly sweet finishing touch.

Four Gate Outer Loop Orbit Orange Curaçao-Gin Cask Finished
92 points, 60.15%, $200

The orange curaçao casks first employed for the 2018 Parker’s Heritage Collection went on to mature Copper & Kings gin. They then had a fourth use as the finishing vessels for this blend of 5½ and 12 year old bourbons. Pineapple, mango, grapefruit, dried apricots, and spice.

Goodwood 5 year old Stout Barrel Finished
88 points, 45%, $85

Kentucky-based Goodwood Brewing sources bourbon and rye for its spirits line, finishing them in its own stout, honey ale, and English mild casks—which themselves previously held bourbon. Licorice, citrus, vanilla cream, and dark chocolate.

Jefferson’s Reserve Old Rum Cask Finished
86 points, 45.1%, $80

The casks for Gosling’s Family Reserve Old rum started life as bourbon barrels and then spent 16 years at the Bermuda distillery before returning to Kentucky to provide a 14-month finish to this 8 year old bourbon. Chocolate-covered cherries, orange marmalade, lemon peel, honey, vanilla, and sweet grains.

Try the Finish: Copper & Kings The Ninth. A Sympony in Orange Gin—45%, $35

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Meet Amrut Super Fan Dennis Steckel

A passion for Indian single malt maker Amrut has driven this super fan to new heights of dedication and appreciation.

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Some relationships are skin deep: For Dennis Steckel and his love of Amrut single malts, the term takes on a whole new meaning. Steckel sports not one, but two Amrut tattoos on his forearms—symbols of an abiding fascination that has transformed the mild-mannered Swede into the whisky’s No.-1 fan worldwide. On his left arm is a reproduction of the logo on Amrut’s distillery in Bangalore, India, while his right arm shows a variation of the “Greedy Angel” illustration that bedecks the brand’s oldest bottlings, with the names of Steckel’s three children inked below.

“I really connected with that angel,” Steckel says of his first time seeing and tasting a bottle of Greedy Angels in 2015. His first encounter with Amrut had come just a year or two earlier, and he was instantly smitten. “I’m a person that if I’m doing something, I will do it 110%,” Steckel explains, noting that Amrut’s name intrigued him initially, but the whisky itself was what won him over. “Some people say, ‘Indian whisky? No, I’ll never try.’ For me, it was exactly the opposite because I’m really interested to try different things.” He started with Amrut’s core single malt. “It was good—so good that I thought I should check this out a little more.”

After buying some single-cask bottlings, Steckel started looking throughout Europe for every Amrut expression he could find, often making trades for sought-after single malt scotches he owned. “They couldn’t understand why I gave away every scotch whisky and wanted Indian whisky,” he laughs. “It was quite easy at that time to get people to let go of their Amrut.” Steckel now has a collection of around 250 bottles of Amrut, including some of the rarest releases—like Greedy Angels 8 year old and 12 year old, and the first Blackadder independent bottling from 2008.

Surreal Opportunities

Not content to confine his passion to himself and close friends, Steckel started a club for all Amrut fans in 2016. “When you have a crazy guy like me and it’s 110% and you have tried to figure out how to get hold of casks from everywhere, my thought was ‘How shall I go further with this?’” he says. “I thought that I had some fever, a good fever” and that’s how the Amrut Fever club was born. Amrut Fever counts over 1,400 fans in its private Facebook group, where Steckel posts a new photograph of an Amrut whisky every day. He stages the photos on twice-monthly jaunts by car or bike to scenic areas around his town of Älmhult (the home base of Ikea, where he works in shipping logistics). “People started telling me, ‘Some people walk the dog; you walk the whisky,’” he says.

India is Whisky’s Newest Hotspot

Steckel first visited Amrut in 2016, just as elections were happening. In India, alcohol producers must shut down during elections, and even Amrut’s biggest fan couldn’t legally tour the distillery. After months of planning—not to mention the 4,400-mile trip from Sweden to Bangalore—Steckel was disappointed, but undeterred. Then, in a stroke of good luck, the elections wrapped up earlier than expected, just in time for then-master distiller Surrinder Kumar and his successor, Ashok Chokalingam, to give Dennis and his traveling companion, Michael Tucek of independent bottler Blackadder, the full Amrut experience.

Steckel has since visited Amrut twice, each time pursued by local media eager to understand why this ordinary Swedish man has taken such a shine to the local distillery. (One journalist said to him, “I expected to meet a millionaire,” he relates. “Instead I meet Dennis in a T-shirt.”) On his second trip, in 2018, Amrut had just completed an expansion project that tripled its capacity. Steckel and his wife, Linda, happened to be visiting on the day that the extension was formally opened, and he was invited to cut the ribbon, as well as add the first malt to the mash tun. “It’s something that I’m very, very proud of,” he says. “It’s a memory for life. Linda realized then how much I meant to them.”

Two men, one with a whiskey

Dennis Steckel posing with former Amrut master distiller Surrinder Kumar.

From Amrut’s perspective, Steckel has been a gift. “Dennis is a diehard Amrut fan, and he does many things on his own without expecting anything in return. That is super rare,” says Chokalingam. “His unconditional love for the brand is phenomenal.” Though Amrut and Steckel have no business relationship, the company has made clear how much it values this super-fan, offering him the chance to fill his own cask during the 2018 visit. That whisky is still maturing, but Steckel has had other opportunities to collaborate on Amrut special bottlings. The first was an exclusive for Amrut Fever members, released in 2017, called Amrut Con-Fusion—a play on the distillery’s core Fusion expression, specially finished in oloroso sherry casks. Steckel says another Amrut Fever bottling is in the works.

Even more special to Steckel was a pair of Blackadder single-cask Amruts, the result of a tasting he did with Blackadder founder Robin Tucek in 2017. Blackadder is one of the only independent bottlers with access to Amrut casks, and Tucek brought several samples to Steckel, seeking his opinion. Later that year, the two met up at a whisky festival and Tucek revealed the “Dennis Steckel Selection”—the sample Steckel had liked best, bottled with his name and a reproduction of his Greedy Angels tattoo on the label. “It was surreal,” Steckel says. “I was so happy.” A second Dennis Steckel Selection came out in 2019.

Small World

Out of everything Steckel’s love of Amrut has created, perhaps the most surprising occurred in his own backyard—or rather, the parking lot of Ikea headquarters, which employs a few hundred Indians, including some from Bangalore. After a profile of Steckel was published in The New Indian Express, one of his colleagues approached him in the parking lot to say he had read it. “Then I realized how small the world is,” Steckel says. “[My Indian colleagues] are now keeping tabs on me. They are surprised that they can get so much Amrut in Sweden that’s not available in India.” After hosting some Indian coworkers for tastings pre-pandemic, Steckel is now planning a special Amrut tasting for them once COVID-19 restrictions are lifted.

Steckel has become special to Amrut as an informal ambassador whose love for the whisky precedes all else. On his visits to the distillery, even bottling line workers wanted to snap a selfie with him. The last time he was there, a woman asked if she could see his Amrut tattoos, and they stopped the whole line so that everyone could take a look. “When I’m there, they think I’m some kind of famous,” he says. “But I’m just the same that I ever have been, just loving Amrut.”

Super-Fan Facts: Dennis Steckel

Daily drinker: Amrut Portonova and Peated Cask Strength
The one he dreams of trying: Single Cask Nation’s independent bottling of 5 year old Amrut bourbon cask (Cask No. 2635) at 62.8% ABV.
Three words that best describe his relationship with Amrut: Family, love, devotion
Most memorable Amrut moment: Cutting the ribbon on Amrut’s new distillery expansion in 2018.
Most extreme thing he’s done for Amrut: When a friend got the chance to buy one of four bottles of Amrut Greedy Angels 12 year old exported to Sweden, within 24 hours Steckel had traded him a 1972 Macallan bottled by Gordon & MacPhail—a whisky worth about $800 more. He opened the Amrut to taste it the very same day.

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Can Zero-Proof Whiskey Stand In For Your Daily Dram?

Alcohol free whiskeys provide an alternative for those looking to take a break from drinking without sacrificing their favorite cocktail.

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There’s nothing like a good whisky, except, perhaps, another good whisky. Yet even whisky lovers may decide to take a break from time to time for medical, religious, or other reasons. Whatever the motive, abstaining no longer means a choice of just soda or seltzer. Now there is a range of alcohol-free alternatives for when you’re off the sauce or just want to lighten the proof load of your usual tipple.

“The vast majority of consumers are not necessarily vigilantly sober daily,” says Lauren Chitwood, who co-founded Spiritless in 2019 and serves as its CEO. “They’re really just looking to curb consumption and increase moderation.” Spiritless’s first product, Kentucky 74, is a dealcoholized “whiskey” that’s made in a two-step process. First, grain neutral spirit and oak are combined in a pot still, using pressure, vapor, and temperature variations to create a highly concentrated extract. The resulting liquid is put into a second pot still and “reverse distilled”—the alcohol is cooked off, and what’s left is a liquid containing oils, tannins, and other flavor molecules that is then pH-adjusted to become shelf-stable.

Other alcohol-free “whiskies” are made by blending essential oils, flavor and aroma extracts, and distillates of oak or other ingredients, sometimes with a little sugar and with preservatives added. All list their contents on the label, and may occasionally take on a hazy appearance due to ingredient separation. Since they have no alcohol to act as a preservative, these products generally need to be consumed within a few months after opening.

While many of these alcohol-free liquids claim to closely mimic whisky, you’ll likely want to avoid attempting to sip them from a Glencairn glass: Served neat, they definitely don’t taste like the real thing. All are thin in body, and while most have some flavors in common with whisky, the full experience of nose and palate is decidedly unorthodox. But totally replacing your usual three fingers on the rocks isn’t necessarily the point, either. As Chitwood says, “We are not at all trying to step on toes. We just want to ride along and be a great option for when you were either going to not participate or do something else.”

Where these whisky alternatives can succeed is in cocktails, especially those that balance them with other distinctly flavored ingredients, like the citrus-forward Whiskey Sour and—with the right vermouth—the Manhattan. Avoid using them in drinks like the Old Fashioned that make whiskey the star; the results are underwhelming at best.

You might also try splitting the base of your usual cocktail to lower, but not eliminate, the alcohol by volume (ABV): half whisky, half whisky alternative. The result will taste different than a cocktail made with whisky, so pull out your lesser-used bitters; a few dashes of, say, plum bitters in a Sour or chocolate bitters in a Boulevardier can round out the cocktail without adding ABV.

Whisky Advocate tested four alcohol-free whisky substitutes, tasting them neat and in a variety of cocktails—both low and no proof—to find ideal uses for each.

Where’s the Proof? Putting Alcohol-Free Whiskey to the Test

Free Spirits Co. The Spirit of Bourbon—$37
The claim: “A rich, oaky, caramel-kissed non-alcoholic alternative to a great Kentucky bourbon.” It contains “functional ingredients,” including vitamin B3 and B6, and taurine.
In the glass: Bubble gum, yellow cupcake, and gummy bears on the nose, with flavors of French vanilla creamer and tingling spice.
Recommended use: Hot Toddy with lemon juice, honey, and a cinnamon stick.

Lyre’s American Malt—$36
The claim: There’s no such thing as a “bourbon malt,” but that’s what Australia-based Lyre’s says it’s emulating with this umber-hued beverage.
In the glass: Aromas of light spice, hay, and cotton candy give way to a palate with the syrupy sweetness of vanilla and orange.
Recommended use: In a no-ABV Boulevardier using Lyre’s Aperitif Rosso and Italian Orange.

Ritual Zero Proof Whiskey Alternative—$27
The claim: “[It] delivers the taste and burn of good whiskey, only with no alcohol or morning hangover.”
In the glass: A nose of pink peppercorn, zesty citrus, and strawberry Blow-Pop is followed by pineapple, lemon, prune, and spice flavors. The only one with a somewhat textured mouthfeel.
Recommended use: New York Sour; the red wine float highlights dark fruit flavors in the Ritual.

Spiritless Kentucky 74—$36
The claim: “A beautifully distilled non-alcohol spirit crafted to complement your favorite bourbon cocktails. It serves up a high-quality, smooth finish…without sacrificing flavor.”
In the glass: The most complex of the bunch, with vanilla, orange, cherry, and sweet spice throughout the nose and palate.
Recommended use: Split the base of a Highball with this and your usual bourbon, adding seltzer and a citrus twist for a refreshing lower-proof cocktail.

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