4 Foolproof Whisky and Pumpkin Cocktails

Embrace fall flavors by whipping up one of these whisky and pumpkin cocktails, including seasonal takes on an Old Fashioned and a Hot Toddy.

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Pumpkin flavor instantly evokes memories of autumn: vibrant yellow and auburn-colored trees, a slight chill in the air, and the rustle of crisp leaves under your feet. And there are so many delicious ways to enjoy the fruit—yes, it’s a fruit—from pies to breads to soups and even whisky cocktails. “When pumpkin is cooked it releases natural baking spice flavors that wonderfully complement the barrel-aged notes in whisky,” says Billy Caruso, Chicago-based executive chef and beverage director at Rye Deli + Drink. “I like the viscosity and texture that pumpkin brings to a cocktail—it creates a more round and full-bodied mouthfeel.”

There are lots of possibilities for experimentation with pumpkin in a whisky drink. You can make pumpkin syrup, which typically consists of pumpkin puree, sugar, and water, and there are many ways to make it your own. You can use it to infuse whisky, which involves steeping pumpkin in the spirit, or you can simply add pureed pumpkin to your favorite whisky cocktail, which is how Caruso prefers to use it. “But I do have one tip if you’re going to puree the pumpkin yourself,” he says. “Always use a high-powered blender to get the pumpkin to a velvety-smooth texture. Otherwise it will break up when combined with other ingredients and make it look like your cocktail has sea monkeys in it—nobody wants that.”

4 Whisky and Pumpkin Cocktails to Try

Autumn Harvest: 2 oz. rye whiskey + 1½ tsp. pumpkin pie syrup + 3 dashes Angostura bitters
In a rocks glass stir rye, syrup, and bitters with ice for 15 seconds. Top with more ice and garnish with a star anise pod or cinnamon stick.
Created by Blaze Laroe of the since closed Chikatana in Chicago

Tangy Pumpkin Toddy: 1¼ oz. bourbon + 1¾ oz. Proof Pumpkin Spice syrup + ½ oz. Apologue Saffron liqueur + Hot water
Combine ingredients in a hot toddy glass and top with hot water. Garnish with powdered sugar-coated dehydrated pumpkin flesh pieces or Jelly Belly Pumpkins.
Created by Matt Shores from Daisies in Chicago

Pumpkin Old Fashioned: 1½ oz. bourbon + 2 Tbsp. pumpkin puree +  ½ oz. Grand Marnier + 1 oz. maple syrup + 2 dashes bitters
Combine bourbon, Grand Marnier, maple syrup, pumpkin puree, and bitters in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and strain through a fine mesh strainer into a chilled Old Fashioned glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with a rosemary sprig or orange peel.
From Boxer Hotel’s former Finch restaurant in Boston

Smashing Pumpkins: 2 oz. bourbon + 1 oz. pumpkin puree* + 1 oz. lemon juice + 1 oz. egg white
Dry shake bourbon, lemon juice, and egg white for 20 seconds. Add ice and pumpkin puree, shake for another 20 seconds. Double strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish with 2 dashes Angostura bitters.

*Peel, remove seeds, and dice a sweet pumpkin, roast at 300º until fork tender, about 45 minutes to an hour. While warm, add it to a blender along with water and puree until velvety smooth, adding more water if needed. Let it cool.
Created by Billy Caruso of Rye Deli + Drink in Chicago

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The Whisky Lover’s Guide to Shochu

Shochu is massively popular in Japan, but barely known on American shores.

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“Although it’s been around for more than 500 years and is popular in Japan, shochu is still breaking into American drinking culture,” says Tetsuro Miyazaki, general manager of Iichiko Shochu USA. “It’s known as the native spirit of Japan, and it offers an incredibly rich umami flavor while also remaining very light with a smooth finish.”

Shochu can be made from any number of ingredients, but the most common types available in the U.S. are barley (mugi), sweet potato (imo), rice (kome), and unrefined cane sugar, also called black sugar (kokuto). The base ingredient is fermented using koji mold—just like in sake production—but unlike sake, which is brewed, shochu is distilled like whisky. Most traditional shochu is single-distilled in pot stills (honkaku) but it can also be made by continuous distillation (ko-rui). After distillation, water is usually added to bring the alcohol content to between 20% and 43% before the spirit rests in stainless steel tanks or clay pots, or is aged in wood barrels.

“Shochu has quite a few flavor profiles and characteristics that depend on the base ingredient used as well as the variety of koji used—and while I’m a firm believer that there’s no right or wrong way to enjoy a dram, there are different serving options that can greatly enhance this special spirit,” says Victoria Vera, general manager and shochu buyer at Tsunami Panhandle in San Francisco, which carries the largest shochu selection in the country. “Kokuto shochu is the most friendly style—one I almost always recommend to a first timer or novice—and is refreshing on the rocks; kome shochu tends to be light and smooth, working well in a cocktail, neat, or on the rocks; mugi shochu can be either light and fruity or grainy and oaky depending on the aging vessel and tastes amazing on the rocks; imo shochu is not for the faint of heart—it is big, bold, and funky in the best way possible and I love to enjoy it in a ceramic mug that’s filled halfway up with hot water.”

Whisky enthusiasts—particularly fans of Japanese and scotch—will find similar characteristics in mugi shochu. Non-wood aged mugi shochu will have familiar flavors from the cereal grain, while cask-aged mugi brings in those lovely toasty notes. “Introducing whisky drinkers to shochu with an oak-aged mugi shochu is the smoothest transition,” Vera says. “From there you can often entice them to explore shochus distilled from other grains that also spent time aging in different vessels such as sherry or cognac barrels.” Other types of shochu will also have flavors whisky drinkers love, from clean, fruity, and floral kome shochu to smooth and lightly sweet kokuto shochu to earthy and umami imo shochu. 

In addition to the hundreds of Japanese shochu distillers, there are several U.S. producers aiming to make shochu a household spirit among American drinkers, including American Shochu Company in Frederick, Maryland, Hawaiian Shochu Company in Oahu, Horyzon Spirits in Atlanta, and St. George Spirits in Alameda, California. “I believe every shochu is worth exploring,” Vera says.

Six Shochus to Try

Hyakunen no Kodoku—40%, $85
This single-distilled shochu contains 100% estate-grown organic barley. A bourbon fan will appreciate its aging in new American oak for 3 to 5 years, which imparts a soft, mellow sweetness as well as oak and cigar notes, with layers of coconut and fragrant barley flavors. This shochu’s sweetness becomes more pronounced when mixed with water.

Iichiko Saiten—43%, $33
Made for mixing in cocktails, this is a single-distilled, non-wood aged barley shochu, with aromas of honeydew, white grapes, kabosu citrus, soy, white pepper, and barley notes. On the palate it exudes rich umami flavors of jasmine tea, white peach, and hints of citrus, with a maltiness similar to single malt whiskies, especially those from the Lowlands.

Nankai Gold—43%, $74
A blend of 80% single-distilled black sugar and 20% rice shochus, each aged up to 5 years in American white oak and French limousin casks before blending. It has qualities similar to Japanese whisky, with fruity, floral, and malty aromas and gentle notes of fruit, raisins, chocolate, and honey.

Satsuma Kuradashi Genshu—37%, $45
This non-wood aged sweet potato shochu is single-distilled and undiluted (genshu), resulting in a silky-smooth palate—similar in character to bourbon—with shy herbal and floral notes, and the enticing flavor and aroma of sweet potato pie. When poured over ice, it becomes lighter and more lively—its umami flavors make it an excellent accompaniment to a meal and in cocktails.

St. George California Shochu—40%, $50
Single-distilled from Calrose rice sake lees—the solid mash byproduct left over from sake production—from Takara Sake Brewery in Berkley, California. It offers cashew, pistachio, sweet mushroom, and dried cocoa on the nose, with the cocoa further developing on the palate as bittersweet chocolate. Enjoy in a Highball or in a Japanese whisky cocktail.

Tenshi no Yuwaku Imo—40%, $80
Aged 10 years in sherry casks, this undiluted sweet potato shochu is one of the longest-aged shochus available in the U.S. It has a thick, creamy texture, with bold and lush flavors of vanilla bean, dried fruits, sweet potato, and a whisper of dried orange peel on the long finish. This shochu will appeal to fans of sherry cask-finished single malts.

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The Whisky Lover’s Guide to Grappa

From humble origins, grappa has become a luxury spirit, with some American distillers emulating the uniquely Italian drink.

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Grappa is often called brandy, but it really isn’t. A traditional spirit from northern Italy, it’s the invention of thrifty farmers who long ago began fermenting and distilling pomace—the skins, stems, seeds, and residual pulp left over after grapes have been pressed for winemaking. Over the generations, this simple agricultural product has been elevated to a higher plane—often to luxury status.

While it’s difficult to know exactly when grappa was first distilled, Francesca Nonino, a sixth-generation distiller whose family makes Italy’s most famous grappa label, Nonino, dates it back to 15th century northeastern Italy. “Pomace was just considered the leftovers from winemaking and had very little value, but farmers who preferred not to waste anything understood its value—because it contains sugar and can be fermented and distilled,” she says. “Distilling at home was illegal, so these farmers stocked pomace and waited for a cloudy day or a storm to cover the steam so they could distill without the fear of being caught.”

Because of this history, grappa was long considered a peasant’s drink, even as grappa distillers—including Nardini (founded in 1779), Nonino (1897), and Poli (1898)—became more prominent throughout Northern Italy. According to Francesca, the spirit’s reputation improved when her grandparents Benito and Giannola Nonino made grappa from a single variety of pomace. “They wanted to prove that grappa is a spirit with integrity and soul, so in 1973 they created the first single-variety grappa made from the pomace of picolit grapes, appropriately called monovitigno—Italian for one varietal,” she says. “This path started with extensive research of ways to maximize quality in distillation by honoring the natural life cycle of the pomace and sourcing only the freshest pomace from the best wineries, gently pressed and still full of juices. Ultimately it led to the transformation of grappa—from a Cinderella spirit of humble beginnings to the queen distillate it is today.”

After being distilled, the liquid usually rests in vats for six months to marry. Unaged grappa is then diluted to achieve an alcohol by volume ranging between 37.5% and 60%, while aged grappa matures for at least an additional year in casks made of oak, acacia, or cherry before dilution. Grappa aged for at least 1 year is termed vecchia or invecchiata, and after at least 18 months it is called riserva or stravecchia. Its flavors range from fruity, floral, and herbaceous to nutty, sweet, and spiced—all familiar to whisky drinkers.

Grappa is a protected descriptor in the European Union, meaning that a spirit cannot be called grappa unless it’s made in Italy with Italian pomace. But the U.S. allows any spirit made here with pomace to be called grappa‚ falling under a broader definition of brandy. Several American distillers make grappa today, including Clear Creek and Ransom Wine Co. and Distillery in Oregon, Finger Lakes Distilling in New York, and Rhine Hall Distillery in Chicago. 

Whether made in its birthplace or in the U.S., grappa is as complex and diverse as whisky, with flavors and textures that vary depending on the grapes used, the length of maturation, and the aging vessel. “Whisky drinkers will find much to enjoy in grappa, especially in aged grappa,” Francesca notes. “Just like with a fine dram, you experience grappa with your nose first and then with a small sip—and if you really want to treat yourself, pair it with dark chocolate or a cigar.”

Five Grappas to Try

Nardini Grappa Riserva 3 year old—40%, $44
This grappa is made from the pomace of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, and friulano grapes from the Alpine foothills of the Friuli region of Italy. Aged in Slavonian oak barrels, it has flavors of almond, cherry, and vanilla, plus toasty notes from the oak and hints of spice, mint, and cocoa that may appeal to a rye or high-rye bourbon drinker.

Capovilla Grappa di Ribolla Gialla Gravner—51%, $120
Made from the pomace of 100% ribolla gialla grapes from Italian winemaker Josko Gravner, this grappa rests for several years in steel vats. A Japanese whisky enthusiast may be drawn to its aromas of sweet flowers, herbs, and grapes, and its fruity, vegetal, and herbaceous palate with warm, spicy notes on the finish.

Nonino Vendemmia Riserva— 41%, $60
The pomace of monovitigno pinot noir, prosecco, and malvasia grapes makes up the base of this grappa, which is aged 18 months in limousin and sherry barriques. Aromas of vanilla, pastry, chocolate, and spices give way to a rich and velvety palate with spice notes that fans of peated whisky may find pleasantly familiar.

Rhine Hall Oaked Grappa—40%, $61
Locally sourced pomace of pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot, and syrah grapes makes up the base of this Chicago-made grappa. Bourbon and rye enthusiasts will appreciate the spirit’s aging in heavily charred new American oak barrels for a minimum of 9 months. It offers flavors of dried herbs, dark chocolate, espresso beans, cardamom, honey, and bitter lemon.

Poli Sarpa Barrique—40%, $50
Made from the pomace of merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes, this grappa is aged 4 years in French oak barriques. With aromas of exotic fruits, vanilla, almonds, and toasted hazelnuts, this grappa may please fans of Speyside scotches, especially those aged or finished in oloroso casks.

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4 Foolproof Whisky and Cold Tea Cocktails

If you’re accustomed to making Toddies with hot tea, switch up the temperature and try out one of these cold tea and whisky recipes.

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From floral jasmine and earthy matcha to spiced chai and smoky lapsang souchong, tea is as variable and flavorful as whisky—and when you mix the two together, delicious things happen. “Versatile ingredients like tea really enhance my cocktail repertoire,” says Katie Auth, bartender at Raines Law Room and Joyface in New York City. “Tea’s acidity, bitterness, and tannic qualities can elevate other components in a drink.”

Whisky-based Hot Toddies—a mixture of the spirit with hot tea, honey, and lemon—are classic, but cold tea also mixes well with whisky in cocktails. “Cold tea can be used on its own in such drinks as a whisky Highball, or you can make a tea syrup, which is an excellent way to integrate tea into a cold cocktail,” Auth says. “Simply mix together hot strong-brewed tea with equal parts sugar then allow to chill, and you have a flavorful ingredient to add your own spin to an Old Fashioned or Whiskey Sour.”

Auth advises using lighter-style teas with delicate flavors in a cocktail—think green tea with Japanese whisky—while chai and lapsang work well with bolder scotches and American whiskeys. “Tea, like whisky, is an adaptable ingredient, and that’s why it’s one of my favorites to use behind the bar,” Auth adds.

4 Whisky and Cold Tea Cocktails to Try

Chai Tea Flip: 2 oz. blended malt scotch + ½ oz. chai tea syrup (1:1 strong-brewed tea to sugar) + ½ oz. heavy cream + 1 whole egg
Shake all ingredients with one ice cube. Add more ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a coupe and garnish with a star anise pod.

Jade Highball: 2 oz. Japanese whisky + ½ barspoon matcha green tea powder + ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice + ¾ oz. simple syrup + seltzer water
Shake all ingredients except seltzer vigorously with ice. Strain into an ice-filled Highball glass and top with seltzer. Stir gently to combine and garnish with a dehydrated lemon wheel.

Chamomile Highball: 1½ oz. rye + ¾ oz. chamomile tea syrup (1:1 strong-brewed tea to sugar) + ½ oz. Laphroaig 10 year old + ¾ oz. lemon juice + seltzer water
Shake all ingredients with one ice cube. Pour into an ice-filled Highball glass and top with a splash of seltzer. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Charley Get Your Gun: 1 oz. bourbon + ½ tsp gunpowder syrup* + 1 oz. dark rum + 2 dashes orange bitters
Stir all ingredients with ice in a rocks glass. Express an orange peel over the drink, then discard. Garnish with an edible flower.

*Steep 2¼ tsp. lapsang souchong tea in 2 cups boiling water for 10 minutes. Strain and combine with 2 cups sugar and 2¼ tsp. crushed pink peppercorns. Stir and refrigerate overnight. Strain thoroughly and add ½ oz. Laphroaig 10 year old or any Islay scotch. Store refrigerated up to 3 months.

All cocktail recipes courtesy of Katie Auth

How to Taste Tea Flavors in Whisky

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The Whisky Lover’s Guide to Gentian Liqueurs

The bitterly refreshing liqueur is commonly enjoyed in France as an aperitif served over ice with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

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Gentian (pronounced JEN-shn) is a flowering plant that grows mostly in mountainous regions throughout the world and has been used for centuries as a bittering agent. The plant has a history of use for medicinal purposes, treating ailments like loss of appetite, indigestion, and heartburn. Many classic cocktail ingredients, including Aperol, Campari, and Angostura bitters, feature gentian. But perhaps most interestingly, when macerated and distilled, gentian makes a delicious liqueur on its own, commonly enjoyed as an aperitif served over ice with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice in cafés throughout France, its country of origin.

While wine bittered with gentian dates back to at least ancient Greece, gentian liqueurs became more prominent toward the end of the 19th century due to the invention of the continuous still and the wider availability of neutral alcohol. To make gentian liqueur, the gentian roots are macerated in alcohol—most commonly from sugar beets—for varying lengths of time, and then distilled. Additional ingredients, like herbs and botanicals, are typically added after distillation, along with sugar. Gentian liqueur makers tend to keep their recipes a secret, but gentian is the main ingredient—and flavor—in all of them.

“All gentian liqueurs will have a core of tactile bitterness from the gentian infusion; the primary characteristics of this are a dusty earthiness, dry floral notes, and vegetal character that some compare to the core of a head of lettuce,” says Salers Gentian aperitif production director Jérôme Corneille. “From there, additional flavors and aromas will vary depending on what other ingredients have been added. For Salers, we don’t add a significant amount of other flavorings, so it has a more dry, rustic quality, but other producers commonly add lemon and vanilla, which tamp down the earthy character and add a rich confectionary note.”

Most of the gentian liqueurs at your local spirits shop will be from France and have impressively long histories—Salers was created in 1886; Suze in 1889; and Avèze in 1929. But there’s also a domestic take on gentian liqueur: In 2016, Portland-based New Deal Distillery debuted Cascadia American Bitter, a botanical-heavy liqueur that’s infused with macerated gentian and angelica root. “We didn’t set out to make a gentian liqueur, but rather a bitter herbal alpine liqueur using local ingredients,” says owner and head distiller Tom Burkleaux. “We sought to use botanicals found naturally in the Pacific Northwest mountains and when doing our initial research we found that gentian grows in the Cascades, so we decided to experiment with gentian as the bittering agent for our alpine liqueur.”

Beyond the traditional French café serve, gentian liqueur can also be enjoyed alongside your favorite whisky in a cocktail. Burkleaux recommends swapping sweet vermouth in a Vieux Carré with Cascadia American Bitter liqueur. Or try a Prairie Chicken Collins from Graham Heubach of the Chicago bar Sportsman’s Club: It comprises 1 oz. Salers, 2 oz. blended scotch, ¾ oz. lemon juice, ½ oz. simple syrup, and a pinch of salt. Shake all ingredients and serve over ice with a splash of club soda.

Four Gentian Liqueurs to Try

Avèze—20%, $30
Avèze is made from gentian roots collected from Volcans d’Auvergne National Park in France that are macerated in neutral alcohol for nine months before distillation. It’s then left to rest for six months in stainless steel vats with a secret blend of herbs and roots, and sugar before bottling. The palate is round, unctuous, sweet, and soft, with bittersweet herbal notes accented by hints of anise, orange peel, mint, and earth. A bourbon drinker may appreciate its sweetness and smooth finish.

Cascadia American Bitter—35%, $35
Made slightly differently than traditional French gentian liqueurs, Cascadia starts as a distillation of rose petals, wild lavender, and other whole dried botanicals. It’s then infused with a maceration of gentian and angelica root, plus cane sugar. A Lowland scotch enthusiast may enjoy the floral qualities of this liqueur, which give way to bitter flavors of gentian and angelica root balanced by notes of rosemary and tarragon, and the cane sugar sweetness.

Salers Apéritif—16%, $23
From the Massif Central region of France, Salers contains gentian roots that are macerated in neutral alcohol for several weeks before distillation in copper pot stills. Then a bouquet of spices and botanicals, plus a little bit of sugar, are added before it’s aged in large Limousin oak vats for more than three years. While the vats are too large to impart flavor from the oak, they do add a little oxidation. Fans of un-sherried, young Islay scotch may be drawn to this liqueur’s fragrant, salty, and earthy qualities. Less sweet than many traditional gentian liqueurs, it has a rustic and earthy profile, with notes of fresh-cut grass, citrus peel, mint, and anise.

Suze—20%, $30
Suze is made from wild gentian roots harvested from the French Alps that are macerated in neutral alcohol for a year before distillation, with an undisclosed bouquet of additional herbs and botanicals, plus sugar, added before bottling. This liqueur has flavors of bittersweet herbs and subtle vanilla, candied orange, and spice, with a delicately bitter finish. While a Japanese whisky drinker may appreciate this liqueur’s herbaceous qualities, a rye whiskey fan may be equally drawn to the spice notes.

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4 Foolproof Whisky and Mezcal Cocktails

Whisky and mezcal are smoky soulmates and go great together when mixed with a few simple ingredients like honey or lemon juice.

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With a base of charred agave, mezcal is delightfully smoky, much like many whiskies, and fans of either will find plenty to like in both spirits. “Mezcal and whisky each have a great depth of flavor that enhances a cocktail—and even more so when paired together,” says Carlos Batista, food and beverage director at Landrace in the Thompson Hotel in San Antonio, Texas. “And you only need a couple of simple mixers, such as honey and lemon juice, to tie it all together.”

Batista notes that pretty much any style of whisky will mix well with smoky, vegetal, earthy mezcal. “A wheat whisky is great because it tends to be milder, drier, and at times fruitier, so it doesn’t overpower or compete with the mezcal,” he says. “Bourbon’s notes of vanilla, toffee, caramel, and oak pair beautifully with mezcal, but a great rye is also fantastic, as it can add some spicier notes to the cocktail.” And the smoke notes of a peated scotch mingle nicely with the agave smoke of mezcal. “Mix the two together and it creates different layers of smoke, all unique,” Batista says. 

To achieve balance in a whisky-and-mezcal cocktail, Batista suggests pairing a lighter whisky with a smokier mezcal, or vice versa. “But at the end of the day, it’s really all about personal preference,” he says.

4 Smoky Whisky and Mezcal Cocktails

Smoked Lavender Flower: 1½ oz. wheat whiskey + ½ oz. mezcal + ¾ oz. warmed lavender honey + ½ oz. fresh lemon juice
Microwave the honey 10 to 15 seconds to liquify it. Shake all ingredients with ice until well chilled. Strain into a double rocks glass and garnish with a lavender flower or lemon peel.

Mezcal Bourbon Sour: 1 oz. bourbon + 1½ oz. mezcal + ¾ oz. light agave nectar + ½ oz. fresh lime juice + 1 large egg white
Dry shake all ingredients until frothy, about 1 minute. Add ice and shake hard again for another 20 to 30 seconds until the shaker is frosty. Strain into a coupe or Martini glass and garnish with a lime twist.

Another Old Fashioned Type: 1 oz. blended scotch + 1 oz. mezcal + ¼-½ oz. agave syrup + 2-3 dashes orange bitters
Stir all ingredients with ice and strain into an Old Fashioned glass over one large ice cube. Garnish with an orange peel.

Smoky Piña: ½ oz. Tennessee whiskey + ½ oz. mezcal + 1 oz. fresh pineapple juice + ½ oz. fresh lemon juice + ¾ oz. simple syrup
Shake all ingredients with ice until well chilled. Strain into an ice-filled Highball glass and garnish with a pineapple leaf.

All cocktail recipes courtesy of Carlos Batista

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How Used Bourbon Barrels Give Other Spirits (and Wines) New Dimension

All kinds of spirits, and even wine, are sing bourbon barrels to impart flavors.

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Once bourbon is ready to move from barrel to bottle, that barrel is up for grabs—since under U.S. law bourbon can be aged only in new oak. There’s a long tradition of distillers in Scotland, Japan, and Ireland buying used bourbon barrels to mature their whiskies, but more recently a bourbon barrel’s life has expanded well beyond whisky. “The great thing about bourbon barrels is their versatility,” says national educator for Don Julio tequila Jorge Raptis. “They’ve become popular for aging a variety of products—even cooking sauces and chocolates—but most notably other spirits outside of whisky.”

Indeed, oak-aged expressions can be found for nearly every spirits type. In rum, there’s Don Papa from the Philippines, Santa Teresa 1796 from Venezuela, and Mount Gay from Barbados, to name just a few. Tequila is similarly abundant in oak-aged expressions from brands including Don Julio, Lunazul, Ocho, Espolòn, and more. Even typically unaged spirits are getting in the game: Philadelphia Distilling, New Riff Distilling, KO Distillery, and Caledonia Spirits all offer gins aged in either new or used American oak barrels. There’s even an oak-aged vodka on the market from OYO Distillery.

The wine world has also joined in. “When we launched our 1000 Stories bourbon barrel-aged zinfandel back in 2014, it was the first widely available wine of this kind,” notes Bob Blue, winemaker for  Fetzer winery’s 1000 Stories label. “Folks were absolutely ready to experience wine in this new way—our sales skyrocketed.”

American oak is used for aging spirits of all kinds, and for some very good reasons. For starters, American oak is chock-full of sweet compounds that offer flavors of vanilla and toffee, while it is also porous enough to allow for sufficient levels of oxidation. There is also the practical issue of supply: American oak barrels tend to be more abundant than most barrel types, and therefore are easy to acquire once bourbon producers are done with them.

Barrel being charred

“Bourbon barrels are charred at high temperatures rather than toasted the way French oak wine barrels are,” says Zidanelia Arcidiacono of California winery Sonoma-Cutrer. “Any liquid you put inside will absorb aromatic and flavor compounds like caramel, hazelnut, spices, and honey.”

Familiar, Yet Different

Bourbon’s popularity is undeniable, so it makes sense that other spirits producers and wine makers would look for ways to attract bourbon fans. Aging and finishing in bourbon oak accomplishes that goal, as it imparts familiar bourbon-like flavors. “Our Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Woodford Reserve Barrel Finish gives bourbon lovers an opportunity to try something different, but with a familiarity they’ll enjoy,” says Zidanelia Arcidiacono, who makes the pinot noir for California winery Sonoma-Cutrer—which has an inside track on barrel supply as it’s owned by Brown-Forman, also owner of Woodford Reserve and Old Forester, as well as Tennessee whiskey Jack Daniel’s. “It works the opposite way too: I love pinot noir, and find myself delighted by the bourbon-barrel flavor in this wine.”

Still, American oak is very different from other types of wood traditionally used to age wine. “A bourbon barrel gives you a completely different aroma and flavor profile—you’ve got to understand how much it will change your product,” says Arcidiacono. “Bourbon barrels are charred at high temperatures rather than toasted the way French oak wine barrels are. The charring allows for some caramelization on the interior surface of the barrel, and any liquid you put inside will absorb aromatic and flavor compounds like caramel, hazelnut, spices, and honey.”

“People the world over love the sensorial characteristics American oak imparts on spirits, from bourbon to scotch to tequila to cachaça,” says Novo Fogo marketing director Luke McKinley. “When people first try our barrel-aged cachaça many say, ‘This tastes like bourbon!’ to which we add, ‘Yes, it tastes like American oak because bourbon tastes like American oak!’ Ultimately, the barrel-aged cachaça is both recognizable and totally unique because of this combination of North American wood and South American spirit.”

Seeking to attract American whiskey fans over to the world of French cognac, Martell Cognac released Blue Swift—a base of VSOP cognac aged in French oak casks and finished in bourbon barrels—in 2016. (The product’s finish in bourbon barrels means it can no longer legally be called cognac and is instead referred to as a “spirit drink.”) The cognac’s delicate candied fruit and plum flavors are complemented by the notes of vanilla sweetness and toasted oak from the bourbon barrels.

Build a Barrel-Aged Bar With These 10 Bottles

For 1000 Stories, bourbon-barrel aging began as an experiment with its zinfandel, but the winemaking team was so impressed by the results that it expanded the portfolio to include a bourbon barrel-aged red blend, cabernet sauvignon, and chardonnay. “These wines are different—period,” Blue says. “The bourbon barrels add texture and richness to the wine, especially with the added mid-palate that comes from the influence of the whiskey that lingers in the wood. It’s just something you don’t see with traditional winemaking.”

Trinchero Family Estates has found a rapt audience for its Ménage à Trois Bourbon Barrel cabernet sauvignon. “Aging cabernet in bourbon barrels is all about taking what’s best about the wine and making it even more flavorful,” says Trinchero senior vice president of winemaking Glenn Andrade. “Bourbon softens heavily charred barrels, making them ideal candidates for aging wine. The barrels also impart smoky notes along with flavors of marzipan, cinnamon, and nutmeg—all great nuances for cabernet sauvignon. Just three months of aging in bourbon barrels goes a long way.”

Age Matters

For its bourbon barrel-aged wines—including a chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and red blend—Beringer Bros. sources used American oak barrels and ages its wines in them for 60 days. “The average age of our barrels is 4 years—we’ve found that older used barrels allow for a better integration of flavors,” says Beringer Bros. winemaker Ryan Rech. “Used bourbon barrels tend to impart fewer tannins but are still intense, with great flavors of vanilla, coconut, dill, and sawdust.”

Barrel aged wine, rum, and cachaca

Aging and finishing in bourbon oak imparts familiar whiskey-like flavors to other spirits and drinks. (Photo by Jeff Harris)

Blue of 1000 Stories also prefers aging in older barrels, which he sources from a variety of Kentucky distillers, because they impart more bourbon character to the wine. “Older barrels add mature vanilla and spice aromas without the intensity of raw wood, which can be overly smoky or even bitter in newer barrels,” he explains, adding that he does play with newer barrels for “perfuming the wine.” This is when small amounts of wine are added to new barrels, imparting a clean, white-smoke aroma from the char and rustic texture from the new oak—this wine alone would be too intense to drink, but when small quantities are added to the overall wine blend, it adds a subtle and appealing aromatic note.

Ménage à Trois uses barrels from its sister brand, Amador Whiskey Co. Once Amador’s Double Barrel bourbon is finished aging in new American oak, Ménage à Trois’s cabernet sauvignon is added to the still-wet casks for 3 months of aging. “New char is just too aggressive,” Andrade says. “We’ve found that the nuances of our various Amador whiskey mashbills add complexity to the wine that we otherwise wouldn’t get from new charred oak.”

Stephen Carroll, founder of Don Papa rum, works with a supplier out of Louisville, Kentucky to source bourbon barrels for aging. “We use other barrel types as well, but from our perspective, the bourbon casks dominate in terms of creating a product with deep flavor and a smooth mouthfeel,” he says. “We’ve also purchased some virgin American oak and placed rum in them, evaluating the liquid in these barrels every three to six months to see how they’re progressing. At the moment, our verdict is that it still needs more time. We’ll see how this continues to develop.”

American oak introduces aromas and flavor notes of vanilla, toffee, butterscotch, and hazelnut, which integrates well with a variety of spirits, including rum, tequila, and gin, as well as wine.

Novo Fogo sources bourbon barrels from Four Roses and Heaven Hill, and has a cooper in Brazil sand and re-toast them. “The cooper shaves off the char and some of the bourbon that has soaked into the wood and re-toasts the wood to a variety of levels—this is because in the hot, humid climate of Morretes, Brazil, the ‘devil’s cut’ of bourbon that has soaked into the wood would leach into our cachaça, making for a far more bourbon-y spirit than we desire,” McKinley explains. “What’s cool is that, unlike bourbon producers, we can fill barrels with cachaça over and over again until the oak has very little left to give to the liquid. Even then, our cooper can shave and toast the staves to give new life to a very old barrel.”

Although the use of bourbon barrels for aging and finishing is most common, it’s not unheard of to age other spirits in new American oak. “We use new American oak barrels, which we purchase from Independent Stave Company, for a couple reasons,” says Andrew Auwerda, president and founder of Philadelphia Distilling, producer of Bluecoat Barrel Finished gin. “First, we want to capture the same big flavors from the wood that bourbon gets, and using new charred barrels means we get first crack at extracting the vanillin, sugar, lactones, and all of the other flavors generated in that wood during the barrel raising. And second, using new barrels also means that there’s no other spirit’s influence on our product.”

Espolòn Tequila similarly uses new American oak barrels for all of its aged expressions, with its Añejo finished in Wild Turkey barrels for the best of both worlds. “New barrels contribute better to the flavor profile we’re seeking, whereas used barrels would be slower to change the flavor profile and the bourbon would add different notes,” says Espolòn’s global brand ambassador Angel Delgado. “For our aged expressions, we transfer the liquid into #2 char American oak barrels at a relatively low alcohol by volume, which means less water gets added before bottling, to lock in more of that pure tequila flavor.”

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Upgrade Your St. Patrick’s Day With These Irish Whiskey Cocktail Recipes

Embrace the versatility and drinkability of Irish whiskey with this mix of refreshing and warming cocktail recipes.

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This St. Patrick’s Day, ditch the green-dyed beer and opt for a sophisticated Irish whiskey sipper. With its mellow and smooth flavor, Irish whiskey makes a versatile base for all types of cocktails, from fruity and shaken to spirit-forward and stirred. Whether the day calls for something refreshing or warming (you never know this time of year, do you?), these recipes are simple to execute at home so you can be drinking in style come March 17th—no food coloring needed.

Five Irish Whiskey Cocktails

All recipes by Luna Kemp of Tipsy Moon Events

Irish Ginger Peach Smash

  • 2 oz. Irish whiskey
  • 4 peach slices
  • 1 oz. agave nectar
  • 3 oz. ginger beer

In a shaker muddle 3 peach slices. Add whiskey, agave, and ice and shake for 10 seconds. Strain into a Highball glass filled with fresh ice and top with ginger beer. Garnish with the remaining peach slice.

Scailtin

  • 2 oz. Irish whiskey
  • 1 cup high-fat milk or milk alternative
  • 2 Tbsp. honey
  • ⅛ tsp. ground ginger
  • ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract

Heat whiskey and milk in a saucepan on low heat—do not boil. Add remaining ingredients and whisk slowly while heating. Pour into a mug and top with ground nutmeg or cinnamon.

Irish Mojito

  • 2 oz. Irish whiskey
  • 8-10 mint leaves
  • 2 fresh lime wedges
  • ½ oz. honey
  • 1 oz. lime juice
  • Seltzer water

In a shaker muddle mint leaves and 1 lime wedge. Add whiskey, honey, lime juice, and ice and shake for 10 seconds. Pour into a Highball glass and top with seltzer water. Garnish with the remaining lime wedge.

Irish Old Fashioned

  • 2 oz. Irish whiskey
  • ½ oz. cognac orange liqueur
  • ½ oz. sweet vermouth
  • 2 dashes orange bitters
  • Orange peel

Stir all ingredients except orange peel with ice. Strain into a rocks glass over a 2×2 ice cube. Twist an orange peel over the drink to release oils then add peel for garnish.

Irish Pomegranate Blueberry Lemonade

  • 2 oz. Irish whiskey
  • 3 oz. lemonade
  • 2 oz. pomegranate juice
  • Handful fresh or frozen blueberries

Shake all ingredients with ice for 10 seconds. Pour into a Highball glass and garnish with more blueberries.

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The Whisky Lover’s Guide to Pisco

Pisco is a South American brandy that the whisky drinker will find well worth exploring.

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In Herbert Asbury’s 1933 book “The Barbary Coast: An Informal History of the San Francisco Underworld,” he reports on the most popular drink in San Francisco during the 1870s, the Pisco Punch. “Its base was Pisco brandy, which was distilled from the grape known as Italia, or La Rosa del Peru, and was named for the Peruvian port from which it was shipped,” Asbury writes. “It was thus described by a writer who first tasted it in 1872: ‘It is perfectly colorless, terribly strong and has a flavor somewhat resembling that of Scotch whiskey [sic], but much more delicate, with a marked fruity taste.” As Diego Loret de Mola, founder, director, and master distiller of Barsol Pisco points out, “Since the very first time pisco landed in the United States in the 1800s, it was compared to whisky.”

Indeed, pisco is well worth exploring for the whisky drinker. This brandy is produced in the winemaking regions of Peru and Chile, with both countries claiming it as their national spirit. American consumers tend to be more familiar with Peruvian pisco, as it’s more widely available in the U.S. than its Chilean counterpart. There’s a bit of controversy as to which country can actually claim to be the birthplace of pisco. “I try not to argue on the topic since I’m Peruvian and I may come off as biased,” says Miguel Maruyama, beverage manager for the Doral, Florida-based Centurion Restaurant Group, owner of Peruvian restaurant Pisco y Nazca. “But I’m a firm believer that competition benefits everyone.”

As with whisky, where each country has its own rules and methods of distillation, pisco production differs depending on where it’s made. Pisco from Peru can be made from eight separate grape varietals. The country offers three main pisco types: puro is a single-varietal pisco; acholado is a blend of different varietals or different piscos; and mosto verde is made from crushed grapes (musts) that aren’t fully fermented, thus retaining some of the natural sugars. “Stopping fermentation halfway gives you a complex spirit that’s very aromatic and easy to sip on, and is usually more expensive because it requires more grapes to make,” Maruyama notes.

Like single malt scotch, Peruvian pisco must be distilled in copper pot stills. It’s only distilled one time and distilled to proof—usually between 38% to 48% alcohol by volume (ABV). Chilean pisco can be distilled multiple times, and water is added after distillation to attain the desired proof. In addition, Chilean pisco can be made with 14 separate grape varieties, and is categorized by ABV: Pisco Corriente o Tradicional contains 30% to 35% ABV; Pisco Especial is 35% to 40%; Pisco Reservado is 40%; and Gran Pisco is 43% or higher. Chilean pisco can also be aged—usually in American oak, French oak, or Chilean rauli wood—while Peruvian pisco cannot, though it must rest for a minimum of three months in a nonreactive vessel.

While pisco’s dominant flavor is most often grapes, there are many secondary notes that appeal to whisky enthusiasts—including stone fruits, citrus, fresh-cut grass, cinnamon, vanilla, and in the case of aged Chilean pisco, wood notes. For fans of the Whisky Sour, a Pisco Sour—pisco, lemon juice, simple syrup, egg white, and bitters—is a welcome step in a new but also familiar drinking direction. Prefer a Manhattan? The El Capitán, comprising pisco, sweet and dry vermouths, and bitters, is sure to please. Of course, you can always sip pisco neat or with ice like you would your favorite dram. “I love having conversations about beverages with whisky drinkers because they’re very open-minded and can value a spirit for what it brings to the table,” Maruyama says. “Piscos are complex and have an explosion of aromas—that’s what makes them unique.”

5 Piscos To Try

Barsol Mosto Verde Quebranta Pisco—41.8%, $43
Made from 100% quebranta grapes, this Peruvian pisco has aromas of pastry notes, caramel, butterscotch, red apple, pear, apricot, toasted almonds, and dried fruits, with hints of citrus. On the palate, the aromas are confirmed, along with light herbal notes and honey flavors that a Highland single malt fan will appreciate. The lingering finish introduces cacao, dark chocolate, toasted nuts, and cereal that may draw in a rye whiskey or high-rye bourbon enthusiast.

Capel Moai Reservado Pisco—40%, $27
This Chilean pisco, which is aged in American oak for four to six months, will likely please a rye whiskey fan. Double distilled from muscat, Pedro Ximénez, and torontel grapes, it has fresh fruit aromas with hints of oak that give way to intense spice and fruit flavors balanced by black pepper and wood notes, supporting a long finish.

Caravedo Mosto Verde Pisco—43%, $50
This pisco from Peru comprises quebranta, torontel, italia, and albilla grapes and is rested in stainless steel for at least one year. The nose is fresh, clean, and fruity, with melon, grape, white vanilla, and Honeycrisp apple aromas. On the palate, it’s rich, warming, and full-bodied, with a creamy texture and notes of cinnamon, orange blossom, chocolate, and citrus that a Speyside scotch fan would appreciate.

Control Pisco—40%, $25
Made in Chile from Pedro Jimenez and moscatel grapes, this is the only pisco on the market that is distilled three times in copper alembic stills. A Lowland or blended scotch drinker may be drawn to the fresh, herbaceous aromas with hints of citrus. The mouthfeel is soft, round, and creamy, with a long and clean finish.

Macchu Pisco—40%, $27
Produced by one of Peru’s only female-run distilleries, this contains 100% quebranta grapes and shares some aromas and flavors with Japanese whiskies. On the nose, vanilla, lime peel, and white pepper give way to vanilla sugar, wet cement, lime, yuzu, and cinnamon on the palate, with pepper and some earthiness on the finish.

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4 Foolproof Whisky and Luxardo Maraschino Cocktails

The Italian cherry liqueur naturally complements whisky in beautifully balanced cocktails such as the Brooklyn.

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With many whiskies presenting lovely stone-fruit qualities, it’s no wonder that the spirit pairs so nicely with Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, which exudes bright aromas and flavors of the marasca cherry distillate, along with roasted nuts, dark chocolate, vanilla, and orange marmalade. The liqueur has been made the same way since its inception in 1821: The leaves, pits, stems, and skins of marasca cherries infuse in larch wood vats for three years, it’s then distilled in copper pot stills, and matured in ash wood vats for a year, with simple syrup added before bottling.

“Luxardo Maraschino is round, rich, and floral, with hints of marzipan, and it mixes well with whiskies across the spectrum in slightly different ways,” says Eryn Reece, head bartender at Banzarbar in New York City. “It can hold its own with the generally higher proof and big barrel notes of vanilla and toffee that often characterize American whiskeys, but its fruit and nut notes also beautifully underscore the subtler flavors of scotch and Irish whiskey.”

Luxardo Maraschino has different functions in a cocktail, Reece adds. “Because of its concentrated flavor, it can be used in a ¾-ounce measure all the way down to just 1 or 2 dashes,” she says. “When I’m building a whisky drink that’s heading in a heavy-handed direction with too much of what I call ‘bass note’ flavors, I reach for Luxardo Maraschino—it helps balance that bass with a strident treble note.”

4 Balanced Whisky and Luxardo Maraschino Cocktails

Sound & Vision: 1 ½ oz. Islay scotch + ½ oz. Luxardo Maraschino + ¾ oz. Aperol + ¾ oz. lemon juice + grapefruit peel for garnish
Shake all ingredients vigorously with ice. Strain into a coupe and garnish with a grapefruit peel.
Created by Eryn Reece

Fancy Free: 2 ¼ oz. bourbon + ½ oz. Luxardo Maraschino + 2 dashes orange bitters + 2 dashes Angostura bitters + orange peel for garnish
Stir all ingredients together with ice 10 to 12 times. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over fresh ice and garnish with an orange peel.
From “Crosby Gaige’s Cocktail Guide and Ladies’ Companion”

Brooklyn: 2 oz. rye whiskey + 1 tsp. Luxardo Maraschino + ¾ oz. dry vermouth + ¼ oz. Bigallet China-China liqueur + lemon peel for garnish
Stir all ingredients together with ice for 20 to 30 seconds. Strain into a coupe or Martini glass and garnish with a lemon peel.
Adapted by Eryn Reece from “Harry Johnson’s Bartenders’ Manual”

Earl Green: 2 oz. green tea-infused Irish whiskey* + ½ oz. Luxardo Maraschino + ¾ oz. dry vermouth + lemon peel for garnish
Stir all ingredients together with ice 10 to 12 times. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over fresh ice and garnish with a lemon peel.
Created by Eryn Reece
*Add 4 green tea bags to 750 ml of Irish whiskey and infuse for 30 minutes. Strain and squeeze remaining liquid out of tea bags.

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