Author name: Jack Sullivan

Whiskey Men Who Owned Hotels

Foreword:   It is not surprising that a substantial number of liquor dealers owned hotels.  The identification of inns with taverns is embedded in American history.  Brought to the current day it is not unusual for an individual (like me) to check in, find the room, and then head down to the hotel bar to see what’s gong on.  Presented here are three men, all of whom became wealthy through whiskey sales, that owned and operated hostelries in pre-Prohibition times.

At five feet, nine inches tall, Frederick Rudolph Welz was not a big man, but he carried a lot of weight in St. Paul, Minnesota, as owner of the city’s largest and most prestigious hotel and a major liquor house and saloon.  An immigrant from Germany, Wells was worth the equivalent today of $25 million when he died. It was said of him: “…Every dollar which he possesses has been earned since he came to America….”


Welz launched his career in hotels in 1878 when he purchased the Circle Park House in Indianapolis, a leading hostelry and favorite of circus folks.  After three years, he sold it and headed north to St. Paul, Minnesota, where he initially was in the liquor trade.  In his new home city,  Welz eventually acquired the Clarendon Hotel.  Although that hostelry had proven unprofitable under three previous owners, Welz transformed it into a first class, money-making property.  “He brought to the business keen discernment, unflagging enterprise, and a knowledge of the demands of the traveling public….”   After three years, however, Welz tired of running the Clarendon, sold it, and took an extended holiday with his wife to Germany.


Upon his return, Welz brought or, some sources say, leased the Merchants Hotel, shown left. This was a premier property in St. Paul at the corner of Jackson and Third Streets, a popular place for social reunions and political gatherings.  Just before the convening of the Minnesota legislature and state conventions the hotel’s rotunda and halls were crowded with politicians and onlookers.


As was his usual pattern, after five years of operating the Merchants Hotel, Welz decided to get out of the hotel business and again set his sights on St. Paul’s lucrative liquor trade.  Welz took a local businessman, Robert Mangler, as a partner and established a wholesale and retail liquor business called “Welz-Mangler Co., Importers and Jobbers, Wines and Liquors.” 


While still involved in the liquor house, Welz’s interest took another turn.  A St. Paul family named Mehls had built and attempted to operate a large luxury hotel called the Ryan. It is shown right.  Apparently not experienced at managing such an establishment and facing a economic downturn during the Panic of 1893, the Mehls went bankrupt and a bank repossessed the hotel.  Welz bought it.


St. Paul newspapers were positive about the takeover, citing Welz’s past success in turning hotels profitable and noting that the new owner, despite other business interests like the liquor house, would be “giving his whole attention to the Ryan.” The economy rebounded.  The Ryan Hotel prospered. To quote a biographer:  [Welz] made it the leading hotel of the city….Made the name of Ryan famous throughout the Northwest….”  This time Welz stayed the course, running the hotel until 1904 when he reached 71.


Unlike many of the impoverished immigrants to the U.S. who engaged in the liquor trade, William Sheppard Norman, born in 1859, was the scion of a wealthy family of Cheltenham, England that owned and operated two newspapers as well as a large printing and lithographing business.  Upon immigrating to the U.S. Norman’s business acuity led to his managing Spokane companies that provided telephone, telegraph, electric and street railway services. 


Hailed for his “ability, power of organization and initiative spirit,” Norman’s next foray was into hotels.  When the Spokane Hotel, shown right, went into bankruptcy in 1893, he saw an opportunity, bought and remodeled it into what was termed “the finest hotel in the ‘Island Empire.’”   From there Norman went on to purchase the posh Tacoma Hotel, below left, and the North Yakima Hotel, right.  Aided by his brother, Benjamin, before long William was operating a string of hotels in the West under the name of Norman Hotels, Ltd.  A biographer said of him in 1912:  “In a summary of his life, Mr. Norman can be accorded a prominent place among the empire builders of Eastern Washington.”



Being an hotelier took Norman into the whiskey trade.  Each of his hotels  contained a liquor store that Norman called “Silver Grill Cellars.” Norman claimed not to be a rectifier but said he was bottling and selling only straight goods in ceramic jugs of half-gallon (below left) and gallon size. Norman’s flagship whiskey label was “Viking,” a name he never bothered to trademark.  Eventually his efforts in alcohol would conflict with Washington State’s prohibition laws and he was arrested and fined.


Forced to shut off the alcohol in his hotels, Norman expanded his  investments to include mining and real estate.  The millionaire utilities executive, hotelier and whiskey man lived to see Prohibition repealed in 1934, remaining active into his nineties.  


Unlike Welz and Norman, Harris Franklin, an immigrant from Eastern Europe, came late to the hotel business.  Moreover, unlike the other two who bought struggling properties, he built an hotel himself from money he made selling whiskey in the South Dakota boom town of Deadwood.


With a partner, Franklin created the largest liquor wholesale house in the Upper Midwest region with an annual trade approaching $125,000, equivalent to more than $3 million today.  This wealth also took him into successful investments in banking, mining, and railroads, all benefiting his adopted city.  Despite its development, however, Deadwood lacked a first class hotel.  For years business leaders had been attempting to construct one without success.  One try resulted in an abandoned foundation used for a time as swimming pool for local children.



In 1902 Franklin stepped into the situation. It was only when the whiskey dealer offered in 1902 to match any contribution to a building dollar-for-dollar that construction began in earnest.  The hotel, finished a year later and considered a marvel of modernity, was named for him.   Shown here, half of its 80 rooms had private baths, a novelty at the time.  Theodore Roosevelt, William Taft, Buffalo Bill Cody, Babe Ruth and world heavyweight champion John L. Sullivan were among Franklin Hotel guests in its heyday.  The Franklin Hotel became Deadwood’s pride and its owner a hero.


Note:  More complete posts on each of these three whiskey men may be found elsewhere on this website:  Frederick Welz, February 16, 2017;  William Norman,  March 21, 2020; and Harris Franklin, May 30, 2017.














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The Triumphs and Tragedies of Buffalo’s Gilligs

 

Charles Gillig, proprietor of a prosperous Buffalo, New York, liquor house and saloon, on a steamy night in mid-August, 1890, closed up shop at his Washington Street location and with two of his employees rented a boat for a cooling night swim in Lake Erie.  What ensued was related by the sole survivor.  It was yet another tragedy in the lives of the Gillig family, three generations who had found success and community standing in America by selling whiskey. 


Charles’ Father was Lorenz Gillig, born in Baden, Germany, about 1819.  At the age of 20, he immigrated to the U.S., settling in Buffalo.  He soon returned to Germany, apparently drawn back by his love for Maria Anna Koehler.  They married and Charles, the eldest of their six children, was born in Germany.  In 1843, Lorenz with Maria and their two-year-old returned to Buffalo.  His early employment in that city has gone unrecorded but likely involved acquaintance with the whiskey trade.


In 1848 Lorenz founded his own liquor house in Buffalo, one that apparently met with early profitability.  When the Civil War broke out, despite being over 40 with a business and growing family, Lorenz volunteered with the 65th New York Infantry Regiment.  Indicating likely earlier Prussian army service, he was commissioned as a major and was third in command.  Charles, now of military age, enlisted in the same unit as a private.  In June 1863 the 65th was ordered to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, garrisoned as a guard against Confederate incursions.  Mustered out of federal service six months later, father and son apparently remained part of  the New York militia while returning to manage the liquor business.  An early Gillig whiskey jug is shown right.


At the conclusion of the Civil War, Lorenz brought Charles into the business as a full partner.  The company became L. Gillig & Son. and moved to 273 Washington Street, the address it would maintain for the remainder of its 50 years in business.  The building was five stories including a storage basement and covered an area 27 by 132 feet.  The first floor was for retail sales;  the upper floors for wholesale.  When he arrived at his majority, John Gillig was taken into the firm that subsequently became L. Lorenz and Sons.



Meanwhile Lorenz was making a name for himself, said by one observer to have become “thoroughly identified with the interests of Buffalo, both with reference to its municipal and commercial affairs.”  For a number of years, as a Republican, he was elected as a Buffalo alderman.  In 1869 he ran for the office of City Assessor.  Lorenz was hailed by one publication as “not an office-seeker, but one of those citizens who are solicited to accept these important offices of municipal trust and responsibility as a matter of public duty.”   Elected to the position, a subsequent assessment of Lorenz noted that: “…He became widely known for his discernment and probity.”


By this time, two tragic events already had befallen the Gilligs.  In 1868, Charles married a local Buffalo woman of 19 named Maria Magdelena Zins.   Before long Maria was expecting twins.  As the first grandchildren, their impending births likely engendered great excitement in the Gillig family.  They were given names: a girl would be Mary Magdelena, after the mother; a boy, Charles after his father.  To great sorrow both twins were dead at birth.  Moreover, after lingering for about a week, wife Maria died, age 20.   The three were buried in adjacent graves.  The shock to Charles and his family must have been intense.


Those three deaths were followed two years later by the death of the second of Lorenz and Maria’s three sons, Henry, only 24 years old.  That was followed in 1878 by the death of Lorenz himself.  Because of an indeterminate birth date his age was estimated at about 61. Lorenz was buried in Buffalo’s Forest Lawn Cemetery, his monument shown here.  Charles and John retained the company name.


Yet another time of sorrow was awaiting the Gilligs.  In 1872 John married Louisa Knickenberg of Bufffalo.  They would have two sons in quick succession, Henry James born in 1873 and Charles Edward in 1875.  Seven years later the young father died leaving behind a grieving widow and the two little boys.  Within the space of 13 years the Gilligs had experienced six family deaths.


 

Of Lorenz’ sons, only Charles remained.  After his first wife’s death he married again in 1871.  His bride was Mary Anna Knickenberg, likely the sister of John’s wife.  They would have one child during their marriage.   Charles promptly sought help in running the Gillig liquor house and found it in J. Christ Bernhardt, another Buffalo liquor wholesaler.  [See my post on Bernhardt, July 24, 2015].  Their partnership was ill-fated and within two years they went separate ways.  Charles remained at the Washington Street address, operating both a liquor house and a saloon to considerable success for the next five years.  



Then came that night in August 1895 when Charles and two of his employees opted for a swim in Lake Erie off Buffalo’s Government Pier. It was a moonless pitch black night. They rented a small boat, moved offshore and, without incident, took a dip in the cooling waters.  Deciding to move farther into the lake, the swimmers re-entered the boat. Charles held the rudder, his bartender Henry Sacht manned the oars.  At some point the two men agreed to change places.  In so doing, they upset the skiff, throwing all three occupants into the water.  Only the third man, Andrew Lehner, surfaced.   


A Buffalo newspaper recounted how Lehner swam back to the boat and looked for his companions:  “…Whom he did not see and believes never rose to the surface.  His survey of the vicinity occupied, as he thinks, three or four minutes, when he came to the conclusion that the two men were drowned, and realizing his own danger and approaching exhaustion, at once made a loud outcry for help.”  His cries were heard by a lifeguard on patrol duty and Lehner was saved.


Amid its grief the Gillig family offered a reward of $100 for anyone recovering the bodies of Charles or Henry Sacht.   Three days later two Buffalo men spotted Charles’ body floating near a dock, obtained a boat and brought it ashore.  He was buried in the United German and French Cemetery in Cheektowaga, Erie County, New York.



Despite the loss of its proprietor the Gillig liquor house moved on, now operated by John Gillig’s sons, Henry, 22, and Charles, 20,  doing business initially as “Gillig Brothers.”  Two ceramic jugs bearing that company name are shown below.  After only a year or so the young Gilligs changed the name of the liquor company for the sixth time.  It now became Gillig Wine Importing Co. (Successors to Gillig Bros.)  Emphasis was on the importation of Hungarian wines, said to be “for medicinal purposes.”  



The Gillig brothers advertising harkened back to the family patriarch, Lorenz, and his 1849 founding of the liquor house.  By 1900, however, the company had ceased appearing in Buffalo city directories, thus ending a half century of family ownership — and times of tragedy.





Note:  The 80 year saga of the Gillig family was reconstructed from a host of sources.  Most important of these were the biography of Lorenz Gillig in the 1880 publication, “Commerce, Manufacturers & Resources of Buffalo & environs:  Historical and Statistical Review;”  Buffalo newspaper accounts of the drownings, and genealogical websites.  Unfortunately I could find no photos of either Lorenz or Charles Gillig and hope some descendant can help me fill that gap. 


















The Yeast Man Rises in William B. Saffell

 Considered by some to be among Kentucky “Whiskey Barons”  and honored recently with a legacy bourbon named for him, William Butler Saffell largely has escaped the attention given to other historic Kentucky distillers.  Shown here, Saffell of Lawrenceburg spent twenty years working as the yeast-maker for another distilling giant before setting his own course to making what he called “my own small product.”

Saffell, born in August, 1843, was part of a pioneer family that settled  in Anderson County in the late 1700s, roughly halfway between Louisville and Lexington, Kentucky.  His grandfather, Joshua, is said to have owned and farmed, likely with enslaved help, 1,000 acres.  His father, Samuel Saffell, was a farmer, and his mother, Sarah Belle Woods, Pennsylvania born.


Educated in the one-room school houses of rural Kentucky, William is reputed as early as the age of sixteen to have been involved in distilling on his father’s farm.Although of sufficient age to have been seen military service during the Civil War, he seems to have avoided it.   Although Kentucky did not secede, Lawrenceburg in general had Southern sympathies.  The Staffells may have harbored other views.  Only three years after the end of hostilities, at the age of 25, William received federal employment as “United States revenue storekeeper” for  Anderson County.  Also known as “gaugers” such agents were responsible for assessing liquor taxes owed by local distillers.  A political appointment, Saffell would not have been selected with suspect loyalties. 


This occupation brought the young man in regular contact with distillers.  During his six years on the job Saffell made close inspections of the equipment and processes of each of the distilleries in his district and came to know well their proprietors.  Likely aware of growing corruption in the federal revenue service, Saffell resigned his commission in 1874, just months in advance of the major “Whiskey Ring” scandal in which many of his colleagues went to jail.


Almost immediately Saffell went to work for W. H. McBrayer.  William Harrison McBrayer, called Judge McBrayer for much of his life, is credited with being among the handful of Kentucky distillers who raised the quality and image of the state’s whiskey to international renown. One contemporary account says of his Cedar Creek brand: “It was the whiskey that made the crowned heads of Europe turn from Scotch to bourbon.”  [See post on McBrayer, Oct. 2, 2011.]


Saffell played a major role in that success.  He became McBrayer’s yeast-maker.  As whiskey guru Michael Veach has pointed out:  “Yeast is a very important flavor component to whiskey. There are people who say it only makes up about 5% of the flavor of the whiskey. I personally think this is a low figure and yeast makes a larger contribution than most people think. However even if this 5% figure is correct it is a vital component to the whiskey. Think of it this way – adding salt to a dish is a small part of the overall flavor, but if there is too little or too much it is noticed in the taste. The same can be said for yeast in whiskey — the wrong yeast will be noticed.”


Saffell’s yeast was an important ingredient in the success of McBrayer’s bourbon.  The two men grew very close.  Saffell’s first son bore the middle name of McBrayer.  The Judge in time made the young Kentuckian master distiller and manager of his distillery.  A year after the older man died, Saffell left the company and struck out on his own.  In 1889 he constructed a distillery on Fox Creek near Alton, Kentucky,  a hamlet northwest of Lawrenceburg. His plant was capable of producing 385 barrels of bourbon annually. According to a 1903 account, its two ironclad bonded warehouses had the capacity to hold 21,000 barrels,


Saffell gave his whiskey his own name and bottled it ceramic jugs and in clear quart glass containers.  The bottles carried an elaborate label that depicted a warehouse full of aging liquor barrels.  From a revenue stamp it appears that his “W. B. Saffell Kentucky Bourbon was 100 proof (50% alcohol) that had been aged four years in federal bond.  Saffell’s whiskey appears to have been very popular, acquiring a customer base for a bourbon of which the distiller boasted:  “My own small product is not excelled by any.”  About Saffell the Wine & Spirits Bulletin commented:  “By his carefulness and knowledge of the business he has built up a high reputation and a successful business.”



Throughout this period William was conducting a personal life.  In October 1883, at the age of 40, he married Frances E. “Frankie” Bond, the daughter of a local political figure.  She was 12 years younger than he.  Over the next 17 years the couple would have seven children, six daughters and one son.  The latter, Franklin McBrayer Saffell, died in infancy, a great family sorrow.



At the time other Anderson County distillers were building mansions in Lawrenceburg, the most imposing being one constructed by the Ripy family [See my post on the Ripys, Sept. 15, 2016.]  Purchasing a lot not far from the Ripy home, Saffell built an imposing two and one-half story house for wife Frankie and his growing brood of children.  Shown here, it was done in “Richardsonian Romanesque,” employing such elements of the style as towers, an asymmetrical facade, masonry walls, a projecting central entrance bay, and other expensive elements of the style.  While not as large as the Ripy residence, it provided plenty of room for the Saffells.  Today it is a funeral home.


With the wealth from his distilling, Saffell also was extending his business interests. For many years he was a vice president and director of the Lawrenceburg National Bank.  Shown here is ten dollar bill issued by that institution.  Saffell also was farming 500 acres in Anderson County.  My guess is that this land was part of the 1,000 acres that his grandfather had claimed.  He likely was growing some wheat for use in mashing for his bourbon.


Saffell continued to meet with distilling success into the 20th Century as the word spread about the quality of his whiskey.  It was considered a worthy rival of premium Kentucky whiskeys, including Cedar Brook, the bourbon he had helped make famous for Judge McBrayer.  At the same time, however, Saffell’s health was declining.  He died in August 1910, at the age of 67.  His youngest daughter was just nine years old.


Honored by the population as one of the city’s most prominent citizens, Saffell was buried in the Lawrenceburg Cemetery at the base of a large granite plinth.  Soon after, the city named a street for him.  When a school was built on that thoroughfare, it became Saffell Street School.   Despite the loss of its founder, Saffell’s distillery, under other management, continued to produce a high quality product until shut down by National Prohibition.  The brand was not revived after Repeal. The distillery itself was left abandoned and in time disappeared.



William Saffell’s contribution to bourbon history, however, has been revived. The folks who make “Wild Turkey” have created a “Whiskey Baron Collection” that honors major distillers of yore.  Among them is Saffell.  Shown here is are the bottle and the label of “W.B. Saffell Bourbon.”  Pictured on the label is the bearded distiller in front of his mansion.  The yeast man has risen again.



Note:  This post was constructed from a number of sources.  Among them the most important was the Saffell family biography in “Kentucky: A History of the State,” by Battle, Perrin, & Kniffin, 5th ed., 1887.



  

Arthur Fels: Whiskey’s Monumental Myth Maker

In Kansas City, Missouri, a youthful German immigrant named Arthur Fels, shown here in maturity,  beginning about 1911 ran a mail order liquor house by spinning an elaborate tall tale about its age, its capacity and its whiskey.  Whether Fels’ myth-making paid off is open to question. After leaving the liquor trade, however, Fel found a future that elevated him into the business and political elites of Missouri for the remainder of his 97 years.


If you believed Fels’ advertising, his was among the oldest, largest, most established wholesale and mail order liquor houses in America.  One Fels advertising piece claimed:   “For nearly 50 years (ever since 1869) we have catered to the wants of the discriminating buyer, both dealer and consumer, being not only the oldest house in our line, but the largest west of New York City —  in fact, one of the largest in America.…We own and control three distilleries, two in Kentucky and one in Missouri.”  The piece went on to claim a customer base of 5,000 wholesalers and dealers, and 350,000 individual mail order customers.


 


Ads like this were published widely.  Printers Ink, the journal of the advertising trade early in 1910 reported:  “The Fels Distilling Company, Kansas City, will shortly begin an extensive mail order whiskey campaign in a big list of daily newspapers, weeklies, and mail-order publications in the Middle West and South.  One hundred and fifty line display copy will be used.”  Ad managers in the target areas must have been salivating at the thought of landing a Fels account.


Tall tales and outright chicanery were endemic in the pre-Prohibition liquor trade.  Arthur Fels, however, was carrying deception to new heights — or low point.  He was almost without peer in creating a monumental myth about Fels Distilling Company.  The truth lay somewhere else.  Finding it sends us back across the Atlantic to Kaiserslautern, Bayern, Germany.


There in 1876,  Arthur was born, the son of Bertha Hirsch and Joseph Fels.  When the  boy was only three years old, his father died.  Bertha, apparently seeing no prospects for herself and her only son in Germany, left their homeland and came to the United States.  She had relatives here, likely first cousins,  Adolph and Simon Hirsch, who had settled in Leadville, a Colorado mining town, and were running a saloon and wholesale liquor business. [See my post on Simon Hirsch, Dec. 10, 2011.] The Hirsch brothers would loom large in Fels’ life.As he grew to maturity, Fels went to work for his cousins.


Leadville was a classic boom and bust mining town. Gold was discovered nearby during the Pikes Peak gold rush of 1859, followed by discovery of rich silver ore in the early 1870s. In July 1893 the price of silver crashed from $1.60 per troy ounce to less than sixty cents. Mines went bankrupt and Leadville fell into an economic depression. Its 1893 population of over 40,000 dwindled to less than 15,000 by 1895. The Hirsch brothers’ liquor trade virtually disappeared.


Simon was the first brother to decamp from Leadville, arriving in Kansas City about 1885.  He bought into a liquor dealership that had been established in 1879.  Under Simon’s leadership the company flourished. Trade reached outside Kansas City to other parts of Missouri and into nearby Kansas and Colorado.  At some point Fels joined him and, it appears, initially became one of four Hirsch traveling salesmen.  According to business directories, within several years Fels had been moved into the front office as cashier.


With Fels showing a distinct talent for the whiskey business, about 1912 a scheme was hatched, likely fostered by Fels himself, to create a new company that would operate side-by-side with the successful Hirsch liquor house. The new entity would concentrate on the mail order whiskey trade that for the moment was thriving because federal laws allowed shipments of alcohol into “dry” locales and states.  As the “Heart of America” Kansas City was well positioned.  Likely funded by Hirsch money, the Fels Distilling Company was born.



From the outset the new business sold more than 25 brands of whiskey, divided between nationally known labels like “Clarke’s Pure Rye,” “Guckenheimer Rye,” “Old Crow,” and “Old Sherwood Rye,” and proprietary brands like “Arabian Club,” “Cedar Brook” (from Hirsch), and “Fels 3 Star,” “Fels 4 Star Reserve,” “Fels A-1,” “Fels Monogram,” “Fels Old 100 Proof,” “Fels Pure Rye Malt,” “Fels White Rye.”


To his customers, both wholesale and mail order, Fels gifted shot glasses, virtually all of them with his name brands advertised.  His ads continually hammered at the alleged longevity of the Fels brand name.  Said one:  “Forty years ago and over upon this brand of whiskey we laid the foundation of our business which today extends from Ocean to Ocean, from Lakes to Gulf….” In a subsequent advertisement the time frame was extended to “nearly 50 years—a half century” during which the name Fels had become “a household word.”  Fels actually had been in business only a few years.



In a riff on the British children’s verse “The House that Jack Built,” that he called “The House that Fels Built,” Arthur embellished the tall tale of his enterprise by claiming to have built a distillery, pictured at left with the caption “This is the House that Fels built.”  Other illustrations purport to show the “…The Worm where in was distilled with skill the Liquor rare”  and “…The Oak Cask, so huge and stout, that aged so well the Liquor rare….”



In fact, Fels was distilling none of his own whiskey but with the help of the Hirsch brothers blending his distillery products in a back room of their liquor house.  The idea that Fels owned and controlled three distilleries also was a fantasy.  For a brief period (1889-1892) Simon Hirsch was recorded as a co-owner of a distillery in Daviess County, Kentucky (RD#18, 2nd District).  This was well before the Fels operation began.


The myth about his company that Fels attempted to project seeming failed miserably.  Perhaps his “rectified” whiskey was substandard.  Certainly the expense of the aggressive ad campaign must have been drain on the coffers of the Hirsch company.  Then too, Prohibition lurked in the foreseeable future.  After at most seven years in business, someone pulled the plug on The Fels Distilling Company.  It ceased operations.  The culprit likely was Simon Hirsch.



Despite the demise of his liquor enterprise, however, Arthur Fels flourished.  He became an investment banker and realtor.  As president of the Arthur Fels Company, he was credited with being instrumental in the financing of early high-rise buildings in Kansas City and St. Louis.  He also had a political career, elected to the city council in 1924 and 1925. During World War II he was selected as a member of the Selective Service Board.  Married and with one son,  Fels died at 97 years old and was cremated.


As noted earlier, tall tales were an accepted part of the environment in the pre-Prohibition liquor trade, a flaw that likely helped bring on National Prohibition.  Although Fels’ fabrications were among the most egregious, his failure may indicate that the drinking public was more knowledgable than he gave them credit for.  Or maybe it was just that he was peddling lousy whiskey.


Note:  This post was researched from a number of online and other sources.



Whiskey Men at National Party Conventions

Forward:  The nature of running a liquor-associated business often involved pre-Prohibition whiskey men intimately in the political processes of their times.  Here are brief stories of three who had  achieved sufficient stature in the Democratic or Republican party to be named as a national convention delegates charged with  nominating a Presidential candidate.

Whatever the enterprise,  Christian Hanlen of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, throughout his life exhibited an uncanny ability to be on the side of success.   As a soldier in the Yankee Army during the Civil War, as a whisky dealer, and as a delegate to the 1892 Democratic National Convention,  Christian was could pick a winner.



Beginning about 1882, Hanlen emerged as owner/manager of a wholesale liquor business called Hanlen Bros., located a 330 Market St. in Harrisburg.  As Hanlen’s business flourished, so did his stature in the community.  Like many of the whiskey dealers and saloonkeepers of the time who saw Prohibitionist forces heading to the Republican banner,  Christian was a strong Democrat. 


His involvement in party activities came during a particularly crucial period.  Grover Cleveland, the first Democrat to be elected President since before the Civil War, had been defeated for reelection in 1888 by the Republican Benjamin Harrison despite Cleveland having garnered a majority in the popular vote.   When Cleveland ran again in 1892, serious opposition to him erupted within the Democratic Party.  Hanlen, however, was cited by the New York Times as a particularly ardent Cleveland supporter.


Elected as a delegate to the Democratic Convention in Chicago,  Hanlen headed across the country by train and emerged upon a convention center nicknamed “The Wigwam.”  Shown here it was a temporary building that had been thrown up in 30 days, located on Michigan Avenue between Washington and Madison.  Whatever excitement Christian experienced as a delegate, the Wigwam provided much of it.   The first day of the convention was marred by a rainstorm when the building sprung a massive leak.  Delegates were opening  umbrellas inside.  The following day as nominations were made, the roof broke again during a rain, showering the delegates.


Presidential balloting did not begun until 3 a.m. that morning.  Cleveland received enough votes to be nominated on the first ballot.  When the convention broke up at almost 5 a.m. Hanlen presumably was tired but  jubilant.   He would celebrate again on the night of the general election when Cleveland went on to victory and a return to the Presidency.


Jere M. Blowe, an African-American, ran a saloon and liquor business in Vicksburg, Mississippi, during a period of history when the local newspaper opined:  Don’t mess with with white supremacy;  it is loaded with determination, gunpowder and dynamite.” Yet Blowe managed to provide leadership in his community, including being a delegate to the Republican National Convention.


Briefly during the period of Reconstruction (1865-1877), blacks in Mississippi were given a measure of freedom roughly equal to whites.  But as the Federal Government relented in its effort to seek equality,  a series of white-passed laws increasingly discriminated against the Negro population.  Growing up during Reconstruction, it is possible that Blowe was able to get a good public education, but he experienced the gradual erosion of rights for himself and his people.


For a time Blowe served as a Vicksburg alderman, a position that seems to have had little power.   He also was selected an alternate delegate to the GOP Convention of 1908, along with a fellow black Vicksburg saloonkeeper named Wesley Crayton.  It is likely that they shared a “Jim Crow” train car to travel to Chicago where the Coliseum awaited, patriotically decorated for the convention.  Historian Neil McMillan has written: “Although impotent in the state and local context, Mississippi’s blacks, like Republican functionaries in other parts of the South, took an important part in the nomination of Presidential candidates.



The 1908 convention nominated Secretary of War William Howard Taft of Ohio, who would go on the win the general election.   McMillan goes on to say that black delegates had a disproportionate influence on convention outcomes and “performed their function in a corruption atmosphere.”  Whatever his experience, Blowe could return to Mississippi, where he was largely powerless to affect local affairs,  knowing that the GOP platform that year vowed to “uphold the rights of African-Americans.”  It turned out to be an empty promise.


In 1893, swayed by a powerful preacher, Tom Doores of Bowling Green, Kentucky,  took a solemn pledge never again to touch alcohol.  By 1900 he seemingly had forgotten, abandoned carpentry, and was in business as “J. T. Doores & Co., Distillers and Wholesale Liquor Dealers,” on Main Street.  After ten years of making money from alcohol, Doores sold out and turned his attention to real estate and politics.

Doores already had taken steps toward political prominence.  In 1904 he was elected as a Kentucky delegate to the 1904 Republican convention held in Chicago, one that nominated Teddy Roosevelt.  In 1908 he was an alternate to the convention that selected William Howard Taft.  He was seen by the Taft people as an effective loyalist.


By 1812, however, the Grand Old Party had been riven by a split between Roosevelt and Taft. By now Doores not only was the Warren County Republican chairman, he also had been appointed by the Taft Administration as the postmaster of Bowling Green, a highly sought, well paid political appointment. After the 1912 GOP nominating convention in Chicago, the “muckrakers” of Colliers Magazine charged that a group of 23 Kentucky postmasters and assistant postmasters who also were county chairmen, Doores among them, had stolen the state’s nominating votes from Roosevelt.  The periodical named them and quoted their salaries.  At $2,700 a year, Doores was the highest paid.



Ultimately the split cost the GOP the White House as Democrat Woodrow Wilson was elected.  Doores lost his postal job.  He made a bid for the U.S. House of Representatives in 1916 but inexplicably pulled out just before the election.  A year later he tried bootlegging, was caught and tried.  The Cincinnati Enquirer opined:  “Doores probably is the most prominent man who yet has been arrested in Kentucky on a charge of peddling liquor into a dry burg.”  What happened then is undisclosed.  He probably received a fine and no jail time.  Five years later, Doores — still a relatively young 52 years — died and was buried in Fairview Cemetery in Bowling Green. 


Note:   More complete vignettes on each of these whiskey men can be found elsewhere on this website:   Christian Hanlen, August 9, 2012;  Jere Blowe, April 6, 2013; and Tom Doores, January 26, 2015.







Pierre Lacour and Whiskey Without Distilling

“QUIT DRINKING POISONOUS LIQUORS.” Thus blared the headlines of Pierre Lacour’s’ advertisements.  Instead, the New Orleans entrepreneur for $20 would sell you 1) A complete assortment of “Oils necessary for making and flavoring every variety of liquor,” 2) ingredients to convert 70 gallons of whiskey into 100, and 3) “every article” needed to start a liquor store.   That likely would include a supply of crushed, dried cochineal bugs, an insect that lives on cacti in Mexico and Central America.

The secret behind Lacour’s liquor was that it really did not require whiskey at all, just raw alcohol he called “neutral spirits.”  Lacour’s book, The Manufacture of Liquors, Wines and Cordials without the Aid of Distillation, first published in 1853, listed dozens of “recipes” for making liquor without the onerous and time consuming process of distillation.  Among them are four instructions for making various American whiskeys.


1.  Old Bourbon Whiskey:  Neutral Spirits, four gallons; refined sugar, three pounds;  dissolved in water, three quarts;  decoction of tea, one pint; three drops of oil of wintergreen, dissolved in one ounce of alcohol; color with tincture of cochineal, two ounces;  burnt sugar, three ounces.


Comment:  My father, a dentist, when called late at night by a patient suffering from a toothache would suggest swabbing it with oil of wintergreen and arrange to meet the sufferer in the morning.


2.  Monogahela Whiskey:  Neutral spirits, four gallons; honey three pints, dissolved in water, one gallon;  rum, half gallon; nitric ether, half an ounce. This is to be colored to suit fancy.  Some customers prefer this whiskey transparent;  while some like it just perceptibly ringed with brown; while others, again, want it rather deep, and partaking of red. [Then apparently add the bugs]. 


Comment:  Nitric ether is defined as a colorless, flammable liquid used in perfumes, drugs, and dyes and in organic synthesis.  It is potassium nitrate mixed with alcohol.  The mechanism left purports to show the process of creating the compound.


3.  Oronoko Rye:  Neutral spirits, four gallons; refined sugar, three and a half pounds, dissolved in water to dissolve three pints;  decoction of tea, one pint; burnt sugar, four ounces; oil of pear, half an ounce, dissolved in an ounce of alcohol.


Comment:  The name of this whiskey seems to have been esoteric to Lacour himself.  I can find no such designation anywhere. Pear seeds contain a high percentage of oil (50%). The seeds, it is said, can be processed into a kind of vegetable oil. 


4.  Tuscaloosa Whiskey:  Neutral spirits, four pints; honey three pints, dissolved in water, three pints; solution of starch, five pints;  oil of wintergreen, four drops dissolved in half an ounce of acetic ether; color with four ounces burnt sugar.


Comment:  One reference to a Tuscaloosa Whiskey is from the Baltimore distillery of W. T. Walters.  He was producing that brand more than a decade after the publication of the book so that it is difficult to know the origin of Lacour’s reference.  It is doubtful that Walter’s whiskey included a “solution of starch” or acetic ether, defined as “a colourless volatile flammable fragrant liquid ester, made from acetic acid and ethanol.”  


Michael Veach of the Filson Historical Society and America reigning expert on bourbon history has explained why it is important to parse these recipes.  First, they tell us what ingredients were among those being used to concoct cheap alcoholic beverages.  Second, they validate the complaint by legitimate distillers against shysters clothing themselves in the garment of “rectifiers,” that is, blenders of whiskey.


An 1858 newspaper ad for Lacours potions indicated that it was not necessary to start from scratch and assemble for oneself all the esoteric ingredients needed to  imitate whiskey.  He suggested starting with whatever “rectified,” whiskey was at hand.  Simply by adding “Lacour’s Oil of Rye,” it was possible to create Monongahela Rye, Old Virginia Malt Whiskey or even Kentucky Bourbon.  To convert rectified whiskey into “Old Irish Malt Whiskey” Lacour recommended oil of cedrat, extracted from a citrus-type fruit that grows in Latin America,


Of Lacour himself, information is scant.  Little is known of his personal life. His date of birth has been given as “about 1800.” He called himself “of Bordeaux,” leading to the assumption that he had been a resident of that city before emigrating to the United States.  Lacour’s arrival year and place is given as 1848 and New Orleans.  Those few details are from a 1992 book entitled “The Foreign French: Nineteenth-Century French Immigration into Louisiana,” by Carl A. Brasseaux.


Upon his arrival, Lacour reputedly opened a saloon in the New Orleans’ French Quarter.  His venture into the liquor trade may have led him to scheming about how to make popular alcoholic drinks on the cheap.   His book, cited earlier, was first published in 1853 and republished at least once in 1860. An 1861 New Orleans business directory listed a “Pierre Lacour” as a cotton trader, doing business in Cloutierville, Natchitoches, Louisiana.  If this is our man, he may have been branching out into other enterprises.  I can find no record of his death or place of interment.


Lacour went on to write at least two more books that may now be lost, including “Lacour’s Chemical Analysis” and “Lacour’s Chemical Manipulations.”  He also claimed to have set up a laboratory in Jefferson Parish, contiguous to New Orleans, for the manufacture of “Lacour’s Essential Oils” — essential that is for turning raw alcohol into any number of faux liquors.  



In contemplating the history of American whiskey before Prohibition,  Lacour’s story is instructive.  Although my research indicates that many of “rectifiers,” blenders of whiskey, played it straight, enough examples of those who cheated have come to light to indicate that Lacour had his disciples.   The Kentucky straight bourbon distillers who pressed the government to have all blended whiskeys designated as “artificial” were not just self-serving.  National Prohibition, while ill-considered and devastating, had one positive effect:  It eliminated the Lacours of the liquor trade.


Note:  While drawn from a variety of sources, this post was made possible by Mike Veach in his 2013 book “Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey:  An American Heritage.”  There he reprinted the four Lacour whiskey recipes, not available from Internet sources. 


St. Paul’s Daniel Aberle: Potables, Parks, & Politics

 Arriving on these shores from Germany in 1870 at the age of 22 and likely speaking little or no English, within a few years Daniel Aberle had established his own liquor store.  After moving his business to St. Paul, Aberle carved out a career there that saw him appointed park commissioner, become a power in the Democratic Party, and accounted among the “Leading Men of the State of Minnesota.”   Aberle’s is another American success story based on selling whiskey.

Daniel Aberle was born in 1848 in Baden, Germany, the son of Lazarus and Karoline Mayer Aberle.  Educated in the good German schools, at the age of 22 he decided to seek his fortune in the United States, boarding a ship that took him to New York City.  He must have seen what he liked in the Big Apple because he stayed for the next seven years.  Aberle’s employment during that period has not come to light but my surmise is that for at least some of the period he was working in the liquor trade.


In New York he met Amelia Stern, born in New York,.  The 1870 census records her as a girl of sixteen working as a clerk, almost certainly in the “fancy goods” store run by her 46-year old mother, Barbara, a German immigrant.  Although no man was recorded as present in the Stern household, Barbara is listed by the census having six children, ranging in age from eighteen to one year.  A puzzle.


Daniel and Amelia were married in Manhattan in 1878.  Almost immediately after, apparently being aware of an opportunity, the newlyweds left New York City and headed 1,200 miles west to St. Joseph, Missouri.  “St. Joe”, as it was commonly called, was a jumping-off point for migrants headed to West.  Pioneers would stay and purchase supplies before they heading out in wagon trains across the Great Plains. Although this traffic had slowed after the Civil War, the city had continued to grow steadily.



Aberle is reported to have opened a wholesale liquor store in St. Joseph in 1878 and pursued the business for about next six years.  The couple’s first two children would be born there, David W. in 1879 and Edward M. in 1881. The 1880 census found the family in St. Joseph, along with Amelia’s younger sister, Emma, and three of Daniel’s adult cousins, Morrris, Sidney and Iela Flarsheim, The Flarsheim men apparently were working as salesmen for Aberle.  The busy household was completed by a live-in maid.


Business in St. Joseph apparently was not up to Abele’s expectations.  In April 1882, Aberle moved his family and liquor house 425 miles almost directly north to St. Paul, Minnesota.  It would be his last move.  The 1883 St. Paul city directory records D. Aberle & Company “Wholesale Wines and Liquors” at 409-411 Sibley Street.  Morris Flarsheim now was in management.  By 1886, an apparent need for more space prompted a move to 236 East Seventh Avenue.  A postcard view of that block reveals an Aberle sign at the far left of the image.



Aberle early showed a flair for advertising his products.  Show here is a bottle of “Golden Wedding” whiskey, a brand from the Joseph Finch distillery in Pittsburgh [See post on Finch, January 31, 2015.]  Aberle has wrapped it in a distinctive ceramic  jug from the Fulper Pottery in Flemington, New Jersey.  He also was providing wholesale customers such as saloons, hotels and restaurants with attractive glass “back of the bar” decanters to advertise his “Aberle’s Melbrook” and “Loring” brand whiskeys.  I can find no evidence that Aberle trademarked any of his proprietary labels.




As Abele’s stature as a St. Paul businessman grew, so did opportunities for community service.  From 1973 to 1891 the St. Paul City Council, in charge of planning city parks, had accomplished little.  In 1991 a separate commission assumed entire charge of parks.  It was led by a dynamic superintendent of parks named Frederick Nussbaumer, a man credited with “great taste and ability in the construction of landscape work” who decidedly improved the the city’s park system.  Both originally from the same part of Germany, Nussbaumer in 1901 tapped Aberle as a member of the commission.  Serving at least six years and likely beyond, the liquor dealer worked closely with the superintendent for the development of the 402 acre Como Park, then and now a St. Paul showpiece.



Aberle also was becoming a major figure in Minnesota’s Democratic Party, rising eventually to the executive committee and for a time serving as state treasurer.  He was chosen as a delegate to the 1900 Democratic National Convention, where the only candidate was William Jennings Bryan, making his third unsuccessful try at President.  Although the 1904 Democratic Convention, shown below, was contested among eight candidates, the eventual nominee, Judge Alton Parker, also lost.  As a member of Minnesota’s slate of electors for Parker, Aberle watched from the sidelines as Theodore Roosevelt was inaugurated.


Parks and politics apparently never distracted Aberle from his main concern — selling liquor.  By 1901, the year of his parks appointment, he had taken on a partner named Westheimer.  His eldest son, David, was now the secretary of the liquor house.  By 1905 Westheimer had departed and Aberle’s second son, Edward, joined the firm.  David became vice president; Edward, secretary and treasurer.  Incorporated and moved to 138 Third Street, the company name was changed to Daniel Aberle & Sons. 


 


These changes were reflected in a tray-shaped saloon sign, featuring a woman dressed in a fancy gown and well-quaffed hair preparing to drink a shot glass full of whiskey while a bottle of “Golden Link” sits nearby on a dresser.  The motto is “Worth Asking For.”  My educated guess is that it refers to the liquor rather than the lady.  The brand also was advertised in a back-of-the-bar bottle.  Another Aberle label was “Governors Special Bourbon.”



Aberle continued to manage the wholesale liquor business until his health failed

He died in 1916 and was buried in Mount Zion Temple Cemetery in St. Paul. A large monument denotes the spot.  Eight years later Amelia would join him there. The Aberle sons continued to manage the liquor house until shut down by National Prohibition in 1919.  Subsequently, David became president of a wholesale confectionary company and Edward maintained an office in St. Paul’s Pioneer Building.



The story of Daniel Aberle’s rise from penurious German immigrant to wealthy and influential American citizen was captured in two 1907 publications.  In one Aberle was counted among the “leading men of Minnesota.”  In the other, he was featured as one of “the big folks in Minnesota.”  In short, he had come a long way from Baden.


Note:  The two books alluded to above are “The Book of Minnesotans:  A Biographical Dictionary of Leading Men of the State of Minnesota” by Albert Nelson Marquis, and “Sketches of Big Folks in Minnesota,” transcribed by  Marilyn Clore.  Both 1907 documents provide details of Aberle’s life.

Thomas Handy, the Rebel Who Founded a Liquor Giant

The Sazerac Company is one of the two largest spirits companies in the United States with annual revenues of more than $1 billion, running some nine distilleries, employing an estimated 2,000 people and operating in at least 12 countries.  The business owes its origins to a returned Confederate soldier who purchased a 19-year old New Orleans bar in 1869 and thereby founded a beverage behemoth.  His name was Thomas Hughes Handy, shown here.

Handy was born in 1839 in Somerset County on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, from a family founded by ancestor Samuel Handy, who had arrived in Maryland  from England as an indentured servant in colonial times, married Mary Sewell in 1679, and had 14 children.  Among Samuel’s descendants was John Scarborough Handy who with wife Elizabeth moved his family to New Orleans in 1847, shown below, and died shortly thereafter, leaving Thomas, two brothers and a sister.  The loss caused all the Handy sons to truncate their educations and go to work by their mid-teens.  The 1860 census found the three boys working as clerks.  Later Thomas was quoted saying that the happiest day of his life was when he had given his mother his first earnings.



By the early 1860s, Handy was working for a liquor importer named Sewell Taylor  and learning the trade.  When the Civil War erupted, however, he was quick to enlist in a Confederate unit known as the Crescent Light Artillery, commissioned a second lieutenant, and deployed to defend Fort St. Philip, a masonry redoubt located on the east bank of the Mississippi River and meant to protect New Orleans eighty miles upstream.   Deemed critical to the Union cause, the Federal navy was deployed to take the fort, control the river and capture the city.


Standing against their bombardment of the fort was Captain T. H. Hutton, Lt. Handy and a company of raw troops that suffered from a lack of water, food, blankets, shelter, and medical attention while withstanding twelve days of relentless Union shelling, shown here in a magazine illustration.  The siege of Fort St. Philip ended in a mutiny by the Confederate troops and an abject surrender.  New Orleans quickly fell to the Yankees.


Captain Hutton, Handy and the others were captured.  As an officer, Handy was sent east to Fort Warren in Boston Harbor.  He was lucky.  Shown here, it was a relatively benign prison for Confederate officers, Southern sympathizing civil officials from Maryland, and Northern political prisoners.  The commandant was known for his humane treatment of prisoners and the mortality rate was low.  In any case, Handy was there for only a few weeks before being sent to back to the Confederacy in a prisoner exchange, common in the early stages of the war.  


Freedom still eluded him, however, as Confederate military officials, rankled over the debacle at Fort St. Philip, arrested him for insubordination and mutiny.  Put on trial in a court-martial, Handy appears to have used his characteristic eloquence to exonerate himself and rejoin the Crescent Artillery.  There he found an opportunity to redeem his reputation.


His unit was deployed south of Vicksburg protecting Confederate supply lines on the Red River.  When Union commanders sent the gunship, SS Indianola, to disrupt river traffic, Handy, aboard an armed Confederate steamship, was given command of the troops.  As author John C. Tramazzo says:  “The valiant and perhaps reckless, Lt. Thomas Handy attacked with vigor.”  The result was total victory with the Indianola disabled, its cargo plundered, and its crew captured.


Handy went on from there for other victories against Union ships on the Red River.  Captured a second time and released to a hospital in Shreveport, Louisiana, for treatment of his wounds and a broken leg, Handy resigned his commission,  When the Confederates surrendered he returned to New Orleans. 


Now afflicted with a permanent limp, Handy returned home a hero, hailed as one who “had done his full duty.”  Drawing on his earlier experience in the whiskey trade he secured employment as the bookkeeper at a high class New Orleans saloon in the French Quarter called the Sazerac House.  The setting is shown below. Saving his money, when the owner in bad health decided to sell out in 1871, Handy bought the business and kept the name. 


 

This suggests a brief discussion of “Sazerac.”  It is a cocktail initially made with a French brandy called “Sazerac de Forge et Fils.”  The name tracks back to

France and the 1630s when the Sazerac family established vineyards and a distillery in the Cognac region.  The current company is thoroughly American, with headquarters in Louisville, Kentucky, and owes its origins to Handy.  Shown here is an 1875 ad he placed in which he claimed to be the New Orleans agent for Sazerac’s “justly celebrated” brandies.


During this period Handy also had a personal life.  The 1870 census found him at 32 years old the head of an unusual household.  A newlywed, his bride was Josephine “Josie” Campbell, a Mississippi-born young woman 11 years his junior.  Living with them was Handy’s mother, Elizabeth; his younger brother, Frederick; Sally Mack, a relative,and her two minor children. Also in residence was James Quirk, a black servant, and Quirk’s aged mother.  By the 1880 census, Thomas and Josie had three children, ages nine, four and four months.  Handy’s mother and brother were still living with them but no other relatives or servants.  His postwar years also found Handy taking responsibilities in New Orleans civic life.  He served on the school board and as a livestock inspector.  When a new Ninth Ward was created in 1876 he was elected to the post of “civic sheriff.”  In that role he is credited with securing employment for as many as 5,000 confederate veterans.


By that time Handy’s roller coaster financial ride had begun in New Orleans. The same aggressive risk-taking that had characterized his storied military service was exhibited in his business dealings.  With his saloon and liquor business generating considerable wealth, Handy launched himself as a local entrepreneur, creating Handy’s Canal Street, City Park & Lakeshore Railroad Company.  This glorified streetcar linked Basin Street to the Spanish Fort Amusement Park on Lake Ponchartrain, shown below.  



In 1878 the cost of construction and maintenance forced him into bankruptcy.  The Sazerac website describes what happened next:  “After Handy loses his money in bad railroad investments, he is forced to dissolve Thos. H. Handy Co….Shortly after Vincent Micas buys out Thomas Handy becoming the owner of the Sazerac House….”  Micas also became the agent for Sazerac brandy, and involved himself in a bitter dispute with Handy.


Four years later the tables turned.  In March 1882 Micas suffered financial problems, lost his lease on the Sazerac House, and saw his building demolished.  His fortunes revived, Handy —  now known as “Colonel Handy”  — rebuilt and reopened the Sazarac House at its original location.  The Times-Picayune reported:  “The structure has been put up by Col. Handy who has planned it for a grand resort, to be unsurpassed for comfort, elegance and convenience.”  The article enthused over the carved walnut bar, the carved paneling and fancy fixtures, ending:  “Good fare and good liquors will be the watchword of the “new Sazarac.”  The building as it looks today is shown below.


With his new saloon becoming a fashionable gathering place for New Orleans elites and the Sazarac franchise now firmly back in hand, Handy again was on a firm track.  Tradition has it that he subsequently substituted rye whiskey for the original brandy in the Sazarac cocktail without his patrons objecting  His prosperity restored, Handy was able to buy a summer home on Mississippi’s Long Beach resort area.  At the relatively young age of 54, Handy died there in 1893.


Handy’s funeral was a major event, with delegations present from the American Legion of Honor, Knights of Honor and the Army of Tennessee.  Among the tributes that poured in he was called: “A true man — true to himself and to mankind.  He had been a friend to those in want….and his willing hand always assisted the good cause when needed.”    Handy was buried in New Orleans’ Metairie Cemetery, his crypt shown here.  Josie would join him there 30 years later.


The company Handy founded was perpetuated and later formally chartered as the Sazerac Company.  Since then under the ownership of William Goldring, the company has come to operate Buffalo Trace, Barton, A. Smith Bowman, Medley, Fleischmann, Mr. Boston, Glenmore and other distilleries.  The organization continues to hail Thomas Handy for his hard work and tenacity as the source of its success.  Shown here is a Sazerac whiskey that commemorates the founder.  


Notes:  Among the important sources for this post were John Tremazzo’s interesting book, “Bourbon and Bullets:  True Stories of Whiskey, War, and Military Service” (2018), the Sazerac Company website history, and genealogical sites. 



Whiskey Men: The San Francisco Quake and Fire

 

Foreword:  At 5:12 A.M. on Wednesday, April 18, 1906, an estimated 7.9 earthquake hit San Francisco.  Within 30 hours of the quake’s first jolt, an ensuing firestorm had consumed much of San Francisco. In the inferno that swept through the city for three days, more than 3,000 people died. Twenty-eight thousand buildings were destroyed over 500 blocks of the city.  Property damage has been estimated at $235–500 million in 1906 dollars — equivalent to the entire 1906 Federal budget.  Today the amount would be between $4.8 and $10 billion.  Among those affected were many San Francisco liquor dealers.  Here are the brief stories of four.


John Lutgen and his whiskey company had gone from success to success in  San Francisco,  moving each time to larger quarters and in 1906 occupied a spacious building at 29-31 Battery Street. A local writer had opined : “Their trade has been prosperous from the start, and has since extended not only throughout the State, but also throughout the coast, their establishment being one of the representative liquor houses of the Golden Gate City.”  


In 1904, Lutgen’s firm had incorporated with a value of $250,00, several million dollars by today’s reckoning.  He and a partner each received 3,998 shares, valued at $25 each.  About the same time, once again needing more space, the company moved to the Battery Street address. Increasingly John Lutgen was being recognized as a major figure in the community. He was a member of the Board of Library Trustees in Alameda and active in several German benevolent societies and Masonic orders.



Then came that fateful morning in 1906.  Among buildings destroyed was the Battery Street building housing the Wichman, Lutgen Company.  Going up in flames were thousands of barrels and cases of whiskey, the firm’s records and all its equipment.  If Lutgen was tempted to quit, he gave no indication.  Almost immediately he made plans to relocate the company into temporary quarters at 431-439 Clay Street  to carry on the whiskey trade.  Meanwhile he planned, designed, and supervised the construction of a new building at 134 Sacramento Street.  The company moved there in 1911, its final home.  The following year Lutgen reported very good sales.



Among others burned out of their business quarters were Louis H. Barner and Henry Kehlenbeck, thriving wholesale liquor dealers at 324 Clay Street. The earthquake triggered a fire at the California Fireworks Company on Front Street, burning north to Clay Street and creeping up that thoroughfare slowly but steadily.  Shown right are a group of onlookers on Clay Street, including anxious shop owners that may have included Barner and Kehlenbeck, watching as the flames drew nearer.  Along Clay some buildings were blown up as a preventive measure but the progress of the fire was not halted. 


Burned out of their business, Barner & Kehlenbeck disappeared from directories and the telephone book briefly, displaced along with tens of thousand of other San Franciscans.  Fearing future quakes some business owners simply moved away.  Not  Barner or Kehlenbeck.  By early 1907, just a few weeks after the earthquake, they were back in business at Devisidaro Street, an area of town that had not been ravaged by fire.  By the end of that same year they had rebuilt permanent quarters at 714 Kearney Street and moved in to resume operations.


The sign left is brim full of confidence.  Goldberg, Bowen & Company  in 1915 were proclaiming the specialty grocery and liquor firm  a “Master Grocer” with a “The World Our Field.”  The claim was backed up by illustrations of goods delivered by ship and rail from all over the globe.  Many San Franciscans, however, could remember when Jacob Goldberg, and the Bowens, Charles and Henry, posted a quite different sign on the burned-out shell of their headquarters. 


The sign made clear that despite the blow the disaster had leveled on them, the partners were determined to press on.  It read: “Goldberg, Bowen and Co. Grocers Will Open a Grand New Store, Van Ness & Sutter.” True to their pledge by 1909 Goldberg, Bowen was back in business at the old address, with a building, bigger and better than the one before.  Shown here, it still stands at 242 Sutter.  The company eventually would have four stores, including one in Oakland. Despite calamities Goldberg, Bowen Co. was on its way to “World Reach.”


 


The earthquake and subsequently burning of San Francisco in 1906 was greeted by a good many clergymen as divine retribution for the city’s wicked, wicked ways. The fact that houses of worship were incinerated right along with everything else — while a huge whiskey warehouse was spared — inspired this immediate verse by Frisco poet and wit Charles Kellogg Field:


‘If, as they say, God spanked the town

For being over frisky,

Why did He burn the churches down

And save Hotaling’s whiskey?’”


Anson P. Hotaling was the largest liquor wholesaler in San Francisco  with a sales volume of 1,750 barrels annually.  Hotaling’s salvation may have been by the grace of God, but there also were more earthbound causes.   According to accounts, the warehouse was threatened and saved three times:  First by a fireman who hacked off smoldering roof cornices.  Second by a single length of hose from a Navy fireboat in San Francisco Bay that firefighters dragged over the ridge of Telegraph Hill for over a mile and eleven blocks to the Jackson street site. There they sprayed water on the building.



The final salvation was a bucket brigade, many of the participants Hotaling’s workers, who slopped a compote of sewage and sea water on the structure from an adjacent site.   The mixture steamed and stunk as it hit the hot exterior but as one writer reported, “the muck did the trick.”  Moreover, while other liquor dealers in the city suffered from looting, authorities allowed the Hotalings to hire a hundred men to stand guard. The firm lost nothing.


The Hotaling Company continued to prosper at its Jackson Street address until shut down by National Prohibition in 1919.  Subsequently a bronze tablet with Field’s verse on it was attached to the Hotaling warehouse where it still can  be found.  In addition, nearby Jones Alley was renamed Hotaling Way. 



In 1909 San Francisco threw a three-day party called the Portola Festival to celebrate the rebuilding of the city in so short a time.  San Francisco virtually had been made anew — 20,000 buildings erected in three years.   As one observer at the festival told the press:  “Who would have imagined that just a few days after, that people would step up and seek to rebuild…in the miraculous way that we see it here today?”  Among those responsible for the San Francisco “miracle,” its liquor dealers must surely be granted a role.


Note:  Considerably longer posts on each of the whiskey men profiled briefly here may be found elsewhere on this website:  John Lutgen,  July 23, 2012;  Barner & Kehlenbeck, December 8, 2015;  Goldberg, Bowen, July 20, 2021; and Anson Hotaling, March 29, 2013.






A Slab Seal Bottle Opens the Book on J. C. Marks

 

Shown right is a ruby red whiskey slab seal label that identifies the contents as “Old Monongahela Rye” from the J. C. Marks Co. of Birmingham, Alabama.  Behind the bottle is the story of Joseph C. Marks, a liquor dealer whose sharp-witted jousts with prohibitionary forces in Birmingham, Alabama, and Louisville, Kentucky, were successful for years but unable to stem a national movement.


Marks’ shrewd approach toward “dry” forces was first manifested in the late 19th Century when Shelby County, some 30 miles down the road from Birmingham, required a license to sell liquor within its boundaries.  Marks dispatched a traveling salesman named Newman into the jurisdiction.  There Newman took an order for a gallon of whiskey costing $2.50 from B.L. Moore, who turned out to be shill for the prohibitionists.   The authorities pounced on Newman, who protested that he was only an agent.  The sale, he contended, had taken place in Birmingham when J. C. Marks, who had a license there, filled the order and sent the whiskey to Moore.  The Supreme Court of Alabama agreed.  Newman (and Marks) prevailed, continuing to sell liquor in Shelby County.


With a former local schoolmaster Adolph S. Loventhal, Marks in 1887 had open a liquor, wine and cigar business with offices, warehouse and workspace in a four story  building at 2117 Second Avenue in Birmingham.  These quarters allowed Marks to market his own brand of whiskey, blending it from barrels received by rail from Kentucky and elsewhere to achieve a desired taste, color and smoothness.  His flagship label was “Three Red Barrels,” a name he trademarked in 1906.  


Shown here is a pint bottle that proclaims the barrels as “Our Sign”  Below are quart bottles bearing Mark’s embossed label design.  It involved three stacked barrels with a bird perched on top below the word “purity.” The bottom barrel is split with a disembodied hand stretching out with a glass.  The rear of the bottle is embossed:  “J. C. Marks Liquors…Wholesale Liquors…Guaranteed Full Measure” and the address at the base.  Filled with whiskey, the barrels would show as red, a truly interesting package.




The slab seal bottle that opens this post presents more of a mystery.  According to an article by David Jackson Jr., for Bottles and Extras, this amber bottle was uncovered by a heavy equipment operator while excavating a coal mine near Birmingham.  Only one other apparently is known and it is damaged.  The seal indicates that the contents were “Monongahela Rye,” indicating Marks was also getting whiskey supplies from Pennsylvania.  Single specimens of bottles are rare, particularly when they entail elements such as a slab seal.  My hunch is that others do exist, waiting to be discovered. 


Like other whiskey wholesalers, Marks featured giveaway items to favored customers, both wholesale and retail.  Below are two examples that have come to light.  Below left is a crude mini jug with Marks’ name scratched in the Albany slip glaze.  It is flanked by a much more elaborate mini.  Note that this one advertises “3-Red-Barrels.”



In 1892 Adolph Loventhal, only 46, died, leaving behind his widow, Rebecca, (nee Sobel), and a sixteen year old son, Allison.  Eleven years later Marks, a 43-year old bachelor, married Rebecca, who was five years older than he.  Their union lasted 17 years until Marks’s death.  No children are recorded from their union.


Although Marks could circumvent county license laws there was no way, or so it seemed, to get around the absolute statewide ban against the making and sales of alcoholic beverages imposed in Alabama in 1908.  The whiskey wholesaler promptly moved his operation to a center of the whiskey industry, Louisville, Kentucky.  This time, protected by the Interstate Commerce Clause of the U.S. Constitution with perfect legality he could ship his whiskey into any “dry” state or locality in America.


Within a few weeks of his move there, as reported in the Wine & Spirits Bulletin he had relocated to the heart of Louisville’s “Whiskey Row,” Main Street between Fourth and Fifth.  In this new location, Marks tailored his products to the large mail order audience now opened up to him.  While continuing to blend his whiskeys as before, he now marketed multiple labels, some produced elsewhere and some of his own making.  They included “Cameo Rye,” “Continental Gin,” “Diamond Star,” “Exclusive Club,” “Fred Mason Bourbon,” “J. C. M. Monogram,” “Kewanee,” “Marks Private Stock,” ”Old Plantation Corn,” “Purity A A A,” “Ranger Gin,” “Royal Bond,” “Royal Club,” “Royal Malt,” “Silver Cloud,” and “Waverly.” Marks failed to trademarked any of them.


Marks also was selling brandies, absinthe, wines and cordials.  Shown here is the only labeled example of a Marks bottle I have been able to find.  It is for a “Banana Flavor Cordial” and bears his Louisville address.  For five prosperous years, Marks was able to sell his whiskies in “dry” areas.  A popular size for his whiskies was a half gallon bottle, many with a bail handle.  Shown below are two example.  The jug at left is embossed only with Louisville; at right the company lists Louisville and — amazingly “dry” Birmingham.





As he had found a way around the strictures of Shelby County, Marks had found a way legally to stay in Birmingham.  Marks’ strategy was revealed in a 1917 advertisement that appeared in Birmingham newspapers.  Its headline reads:  “Buy for Christmas Before the Christmas Rush where Purity, Quality,  Reliability for 25 Years has builded The Largest Wholesale Liquor Business in the South.”  Reading down to the bottom, the J.C. Marks Liquor Company claimed to be operating from its “Same Old Stand” in Birmingham. 



Now operating from “wet” Kentucky this whiskey man had determined that so long as the money transaction and shipping took place from Louisville, he could use his original Birmingham location to take and transmit orders. The payment went directly from customers to Marks in Louisville and the liquor was express mailed back to Birmingham. All this was perfectly legal. The state’s prohibitionists must have been furious.


Marks was not alone in such strategies, leading the Congress in 1913 to pass the Webb-Kenyon Act that removed the Constitutional protection for interstate sales.  Because of court challenges, eventually reaching the U.S. Supreme Court, enforcement did not occur until several years later.  By that time Marks now in his late 50s had closed out his liquor house and moved with Rebecca to Cleveland Heights, Ohio, to live among relatives.  He died there at the age of 60, having seen the imposition of National Prohibition.  Rebeca followed him to the grave a year later.  Both lie in the Temple Cemetery of Nashville, Tennessee, in Section A, Lot 38, graves 1 and 2.



For 30 years via several strategies, Joseph Marks was able to circumvent the efforts of the prohibitionist to shut off the making and sale of liquor.  In the end, however, those forces proved too strong to be overcome by any single individual and, indeed, for an entire industry.


Note:  Seeing the J.C. Mark slab seal bottle on the Internet, brought me to the David Jackson article, a record of the Shelby County case, and other sources of information on J.C. Marks.  The picture of Mark’s “scratch” jug is through the courtesy of Bill Garland, the guru of Alabama whiskey ceramics.











 













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