Words by WhiskyPilgrimThe good ship bourbon just keeps gaining pace in the UK. So it’s no surprise that new brands keep heading across the Atlantic for their share of sterling. The Luxco raft isn’t entirely new, per se, but their whiskies are certainly…
The good ship bourbon just keeps gaining pace in the UK. So it’s no surprise that new brands keep heading across the Atlantic for their share of sterling. The Luxco raft isn’t entirely new, per se, but their whiskies are certainly rare beasts this side of the pond, newly given a push by Woolf Sung. I’d only previously tried one of them, so it was with great curiosity that I headed to Greek Street on 3rd July for a tasting led by Milroy’s alumnus and Woolf Sung ambassador Angus Martin.
First up was the value end of their offering. David Nicholson is a brand that has been knocking around for a long while; owned by the Van Winkle family until it was purchased by Luxco in 2000, and therefore afforded a measure of the lustre associated with that most fêted of bourbon names.
The two we were trying were the rye-recipe Reserve, and the wheat-recipe 1843. Both cost somewhere around the £40 mark from the most obvious channels.
The Reserve was an enigma, with a decent, if not spectacular, nose that improved out of recognition on the palate. High rye and very enjoyable indeed. I’d have no hesitation in picking a bottle up.
The 1843 was very young. I’ve had this discussion with a few BBS members now, and I’m yet to be convinced that a wheat-recipe bourbon can avoid tasting a little young and “spirity” without at least 6-8 years of knitting itself together in a cask.
This was rather borne out by a side-by-side tasting of the old 1843, with its 7 years age statement. Instantly there was a gulf in aroma class; where the current entity features fairly basic cereals and caramel over a slightly distracting estery character, the 7 year old comes across as far more the unified whole. Richer, fuller and more harmonious in every respect. A slight estery character did return on the finish; 7 years is hardly ancient, after all, but whilst your mileage may vary, my own view was that the previous 1843 is in a different league to the NAS offering.
Next up, Bower Hill Reserve Rye. Which absolutely screamd MGPI. All the herbs (“dill,” said Angus) and spice and pine and florals associated with that distillery. If you’re a fan of that style (I am – immensely so) it’s mouthwatering stuff.
But then a shock. A couple of us had been chatting, and had assumed it was the usual 95% rye recipe. Until Angus revealed that it was in fact 51% rye, and 49% malted barley. Which begged the question: where was the barley? Everything about the aroma screamed rye. Screamed “very high rye.” At a real stretch, the palate was perhaps a smidge more voluptuous in body than one might encounter on a 95%, but the seemingly total absence (or possibly masking) of any barley character was astonishing.
A revelation then; and a very tasty one. But here’s the rub: it reminded me of Bulleit 95. That’s not a bad thing – Bulleit’s a cracking rye. But I can pick up Bulleit on offer at Asda for £22. At £70+, Bower Hill’s rather ambitiously priced. Worth seeking out by the glass rather than leaping straight into a full bottle purchase perhaps. After all, it may be exactly your cup of tea. But at the RRP, there’s an awful lot of competition – Pikesville 101 jumps to mind, for example – so caveat emptor and all that...
Which leads fairly neatly into the final trio of the evening. Blood Oath Pact No.2 was overlaid by a nice splash of red fruit; had a tasty, spicy rye core and a certain amount of complexity. Yellowstone 7 years old was very good indeed; unquestionably the pick of the bunch; whistle clean, hugely well-defined flavours of classic middle-aged bourbon (though I’m not sure how much of its wine finish showed...) Bower Hill Cask Strength was a brawny, nutty, woody, muscular beast of a bourbon; the sort of thing you want slid to you across a frontier saloon’s bar.
Very tasty, impressive stuff. Yellowstone in particular drew great admiration from the majority of those assembled (indeed one or two BBS members were practically cooing!) But it is worth bearing in mind that all three of these whiskies are priced more or less in line with Buffalo Trace’s Antique Collection (at RRP). All things considered, I’d probably take Yellowstone over the last few editions of Eagle Rare 17. But I’d still be a little hesitant before buying a bottle. There are a lot of excellent bourbons and ryes that are considerably more affordable than the Luxcos; to my mind they’re overreaching themselves ever so slightly.
That said, I enjoyed every whiskey I tasted on 3rd July. They’re a diverse bunch with several points of difference, and they’re more than worth seeking out by the glass. Your position may differ where opinion on pricing is concerned; I only offer my tuppenceworth as a slight caution.
Thanks to the BBS, Milroy’s, Angus Martin and Sebastian Woolf for a very enjoyable evening.
Words by @WhiskyPilgrimSomething genuinely massive happened in the whisky world on 13th June, and hardly anyone seemed to notice.In fairness, there wasn’t much fanfare. Three new whiskies popped up on The Whisky Exchange’s website. Pike Creek 10 years …
Something genuinely massive happened in the whisky world on 13th June, and hardly anyone seemed to notice.
In fairness, there wasn’t much fanfare. Three new whiskies popped up on The Whisky Exchange’s website. Pike Creek 10 years old Rum finish, Lot 40 Rye, and J.P. Wiser’s 18 year old. The significance? They are a trio of Canadian whiskies, and their appearance this side of the pond marks a watershed moment in world whisky appreciation and opportunity.
Considering it makes more than any nation other than Scotland, Canadian whisky is terribly poorly understood outside of its homeland. Relative to its size, it barely gets a passing mention in most whisk(e)y tomes; the only time it really made UK headlines was when Jim Murray named Crown Royal’s Northern Harvest Rye his “Best Whisky in the World.” To which the near-universal response was “nonsense”.
For a clearer picture of the Canadian whisky scene, the only obvious comprehensive resource is Davin de Kergommeaux’s “Canadian Whisky: The Portable Expert”. And as far as the UK consumer goes, good luck getting hold of it. I’ve had nothing but grief with my copy; a cautionary tale featuring 3-month delays, accidentally leaving it in coffee shops, and dropping it when fleeing a mugger. Hey ho. Perhaps he picked it up and educated himself.
The upshot is that misconceptions and sweeping statements surrounding Canadian whisky are rife. “It’s full of stuff that isn’t whisky” and “it’s all a load of rubbish” being the main generalisations. On top of which you have whiskies being called “rye” when they are mostly made from corn, myriad brands whose name bears no relation to the distillery that made them, and no real stylistic “signposts” such as mashbills to help guide the unwary consumer through profiles. (Canadian distilleries tend to mash the grains separately, blending them together as new spirit or mature whisky.)
Add to that the fact that Canada keeps most of its best juice “in house” and it is perhaps not surprising that Canadian whisky doesn’t command the legions of UK devotees enjoyed by Scotch or Bourbon.
A shame. Because Canada unquestionably boasts some of the best distilleries in the world, capable of making premier league whisky in a fascinating, unique and inimitable style. And three of the most well-known (over there) are Pike Creek 10, Lot 40, and J.P. Wiser’s 18yo.
Which brings us back to the 13th June.
More or less as soon as they appeared on TWE I hit the “buy now” button. Partially from excitement at finally seeing them, and partially because they are extremely handily priced. £25 for Pike Creek. £30 for Lot 40. £40 for J.P. Wiser’s 18 year old. Try and find another 18 year old whisky – from anywhere – for £40. I dare you.
So, American whiskey fans, the big question. What does the stuff North of the border taste like? And does it compare to the juice we’re more familiar with?
Pike Creek 10 year old, Rum finish. 42%ABV
Intriguing nose. Rum makes itself known straight away, adding a splash of tropical fruit and bite. There’s also a perfumed wood aspect, and a spicy – almost botanical – lift. Rye is a presence, but not an overwhelming one. It’s one of those noses in which there is no single dominant characteristic. Medium intensity.
Even more rum-like on the initial palate. Viscous, oily and sweet. Brown sugars and caramels. After which a firmness, reminiscent of blended Scotch, creeps in. Wheat? Tasty stuff, if a little short and simple. Think a Scotch blend, but in caramel and rum sauce.
J.P. Wiser’s 18 year old. 40% ABV
Takes a while for the nose to get going. Doesn’t leap from the glass. Needs time and warmth, but patience is rewarded, because what emerges is terrific stuff. Woody, with cigar tobacco, cedar, leather and musky aftershave. A touch of pine too – really nice balance of the deep and the lifted.
Big fat, oily palate – surprisingly full-bodied for 40%. Flavours come in a couple of waves; sweeter than the nose initially – this is where the brown sugar and caramel makes itself known – after which rye spices, wood and musk return. Unctuous texture, but those deep, woody, chocolatey, nutmeggy flavours feel slightly muted and shortened. I’ve never wanted a whisk(e)y to be another 6% stronger more. (I promise that’s not just me being an alcoholic...)
Lot 40 Rye Whisky. 43%
Boom! Rye! Bounds from the glass, but not in a sharp, MGP-esque style. This is elegant and floral (crazy floral) – full of violets and gently lifted. A slight candied orange rind too, and a little sawn pine-wood. Most intense nose of the trio by miles – don’t need your nose anywhere near the glass – and beautiful stuff.
Palate effectively a continuation, thought the rye becomes spicier and extra-lip-smacking. Would make a fascinating side-by-side with Bulleit. Switched on, poised and lean; still very floral indeed, and with a big hit of rye bread. Probably my favourite of the trio, and quite simply spectacular value.
Conclusions
My initial reaction on tasting this trio was: tasty, but I want more engine. More oomph. The Wiser’s, in particular, seemed crying out for another 6% - those flavours are outstanding, but it feels as though someone’s turned the volume down. I was reminded of how I feel about Dalmore; another whisky with a thick, unctuous texture that seems to cruise along at 40%, dropping tantalising hints of just how special it could be.
But here’s the thing. The whisk(e)y industry is not built on high ABV, fasten-your-seatbelt stuff. Those might be the whiskies venerated online and flogged on the secondary market for megabucks, but they aren’t what bring people to the whisky table initially.
What really impresses me about these whiskies is how much they manage to deliver at such a modest alcohol level and, more significantly, such a modest price. J.P. Wiser’s, and particularly Lot 40, have plenty to offer the long-in-the-tooth whisky drinker, whilst also being supremely approachable, delicious whiskies for new consumers to get stuck into. As for Pike Creek, I can’t think of a blended Scotch on the market that can touch it for the price. And with its element of sweet new oak it makes a nice bridge in style from America to Scotland too.
These are serious, important whiskies. They are a platform from which Canadian whisky can grow in the UK. And I want more. Gooderham&Worts Four Grain was one of the most exciting whiskies I tried at Whisky Live in April – I want to see that on UK shelves too. Alberta distillery make some of the best rye in the world – let’s get some of that over here, and not just in overpriced WhistlePig bottles. And that’s before I’ve even mentioned the Single Malts popping up in distilleries across the country. I want to taste them all.
Hiram Walker, the distillery behind the trio I tasted, recently announced that they would be launching some special editions in the autumn. Amongst others, a J.P. Wiser’s 37 year old and a cask strength Lot 40 12 year old. I remember reading an article about them with longing, tempered by the disappointing certainty that none of those whiskies would make it to our shores.
Now let’s not get ahead of ourselves. They probably still won’t. In real terms, Canadian whisky has just dipped its toe into the UK market. There’s a long way to go before we start seeing special editions. But let’s hope that the three new arrivals are a statement of long-term intent. The Canadians are coming to Britain. And you need to get to know them.
Words by @JordanHarperThere are 2,700 whiskies on Jack Rose Dining Saloon’s menu, which means that the first big challenge for any patron is choosing what to drink first. A mixture of FOMO and choice paralysis meant I spent about 20 minutes flippi…
There are 2,700 whiskies on Jack Rose Dining Saloon’s menu, which means that the first big challenge for any patron is choosing what to drink first.
A mixture of FOMO and choice paralysis meant I spent about 20 minutes flipping through the menu before settling on a pre-fire Heaven Hill from the 1980s.
Even after all that thought, I got it wrong.
A couple of minutes after ordering, one of the many knowledgeable staff approached our table:
“Sir, if you’re willing to spend $5 more, there’s a Heaven Hill Bottled in Bond from about five years earlier that’s one of the best whiskies I’ve ever tasted from there.”
And that’s when — like every smart wine drinker with access to a sommelier — I stopped trying to be clever and decided to hand my fate over to the experts who know their way around that enormous list better than I ever could.
Starter
Heaven Hill ‘Old Style Bourbon’, 100 Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Bottled in Bond circa 1982.
Genuinely one of the most perfectly balanced whiskies I’ve ever had the pleasure to taste. A rich and complex nose, nice little kick as it hits the tongue before hitting 90+ on every classic bourbon flavour note. Caramel, vanilla, butterscotch, charred oak and a bit of spice.
I could have climbed into the empty glass and lived there happily for a long time.
Having just arrived a couple of hours earlier on a long haul flight from London, I wasn’t just there to drink whiskey, and the food at Jack Rose is almost as good as the drink. Deciding to opt against a traditional glass of wine with my venison and to stick with whiskey, I sought the advice of resident expert Chris Leung.
Main Course
Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2015
I’ve never really paid that much attention to Old Forester. I’ve no good reason why, it’s just never drifted onto my radar. That all changed earlier this year when I got hold of a bottle of their 1920 Prohibition Style KSB — I’m not sure there’s a better non limited-release bourbon on the market right now.
So when Chris recommended I pair Old Forester’s actual limited release product — the 12 year Birthday Bourbon — with my venison, I jumped at the chance to try it.
Compared to my pre-fire Heaven Hill starter, this was a whole different experience. Brighter, more vibrant and full of bruised bananas and high notes. I was dubious how any whiskey would pair with a fairly delicate venison dish, but it worked an absolute treat (particularly with the parsnips, oddly enough). One to note for the future.
Also to note: I’m not sure Birthday Bourbon is actually any better than Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style — that stuff is superb.
Dessert
Willett ‘808' 14yr old barrel proof (126.6) bourbon
On to dessert — beignets with chocolate sauce and dulce de leche — and on to as good a reason to visit Jack Rose as any…
Jack Rose has an obscene number of Willett bottlings, thanks to owner Bill Thomas’ long standing relationship with the Willett Family Estate, he’s been picking barrels there from back long before they were one of the bourbon world’s most coveted single barrel releases.
The ‘808’ is a stunner. Like pouring liquid salted caramel over your tongue — holding its 63.3% alcohol with no trouble at all, warming but full bodied, syrupy and rich. Its 14 years in the barrel have given it a colour like a varnished mahogany bar top, and it tastes like a couple of those were ground down and added to the mash. There was probably complexity here, but I was too busy melting into my chair to notice.
If you like Willett, you need to go to Jack Rose.
Digestif
High West Rocky Mountain Rye 21yr
While my colleagues sipped decaf coffee, I opted for a slight change in gear: a rye digestif.
Presented with three options by Chris: a dusty Old Potrero; Lock, Stock & Barrel 16; and the High West. I’m a big fan of High West’s core stuff (less so their barrel finishes) and was keen to try the oldest whiskey they’ve put out.
Sourced from Barton, Rocky Mountain Rye is described on the bottle as ‘whiskey distilled from a rye mash stored 21 years in reused cooperage’ — the reused bit meaning they can’t legally call it an American Rye Whiskey, which mandates new barrels only. This means we have a pretty unique whiskey here, not only because there’s not much rye lying around that’s this old, but that by using second or third fill barrels, the whiskey is going to be less heavy on the oak and retain a bit of character after a couple of decades.
I half wonder if someone at Barton didn’t accidentally dump this into used barrels, because I can’t think of a good reason that they’d do this on purpose, given the regulations around American whiskey (and the state of the industry 21 years ago). Maybe someone was drunk. Maybe it explains why it sat there for 21 years.
Either way, I really enjoyed Rocky Mountain Rye, a perfect end to the night and a nice bit of spice after all that smooth, smooth bourbon. It reminded me of Thomas H Handy — which is both a compliment to Handy, aged just 6 years, and to the brightness retained in this 21 year old — full of baking spices, sweet wood, a silky smooth mouthfeel and seamlessly integrated alcohol. More than anything else it’s just a smooth and enjoyable dram, very sophisticated and well balanced.
1982 Heaven Hill Old Style Bourbon, BIB · Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2015 · Willet KSB 14 yr 126.6 proof · High West Rocky Mountain Rye 21 yr
To be anywhere near Washington DC and not visit Jack Rose would be a big mistake if you’re a fan of whiskey. The staff are incredibly friendly and helpful — no matter what your level of spirit knowledge — and the food is pretty great too. Thoroughly recommended.
Bonus DC tip: A1 Wines & Liquor, 1420 K St NW. A pretty great selection of whiskey for a downtown liquor store and solid prices on pretty much everything I saw on the shelves. I spent about half an hour chatting to Eric and came away with a bottle of Rebel Yell Single Barrel 10, Lot 40 Canadian rye and Bowman Brothers Small Batch; and more importantly a bit more knowledge and wisdom on the subject of American whiskey.
Words by @LondonLiquorCentral London is well served for great whisky bars as a glance at the BBS Bar Map demonstrates. Head out East, however, and there aren’t too many inspiring options (with a handful of notable exceptions such as Black Rock and Bull…
Central London is well served for great whisky bars as a glance at the BBS Bar Map demonstrates. Head out East, however, and there aren't too many inspiring options (with a handful of notable exceptions such as Black Rock and Bull In a China Shop).
Enter the Scotch Malt Whisky Society's new Kaleidoscope Bar located in Devonshire Square (close to BBS-favourite Pitt Cue) behind Liverpool St Station. It's still in the soft launch phase but initial signs are positive. The selection of SMWS Single Casks is unsurprisingly vast and pricing isn't too extreme, particularly with the 20% discount available for SMWS members.
Kaleidoscope also hits other key BBS Bar features: a range of tasting flights, interesting cocktails (although Penicillin is a striking omission), a decent beer selection and, perhaps most importantly, knowledgeable and unpretentious staff. Being situated underneath Mac & Wild also ensures that the snack menu is excellent with a Scotch Egg that's hard to beat.
The American whisky selection is currently tiny but that may change: SMWS has bottled several American whiskies in the past so fingers crossed some of those make an appearance! It had previously been announced to some fanfare that Dave Broom would be curating a non-SMWS whisky collection at the bar but this seems to have fallen by the way side for the time being - hopefully it appears in the future.
BBS will be back at Kaleidoscope in a few weeks once it's fully opened to see if it warrants a coveted spot on BBS' Bar Map!
By @LondonLiquorOn 20 March 2017, BBS hosted a unique tasting event at Milroy’s of Soho: four Blanton’s Single Barrel releases bottled exclusively by La Maison Du Whisky to celebrate their Sixtieth Anniversary. This was to be followed by a much anticip…
On 20 March 2017, BBS hosted a unique tasting event at Milroy's of Soho: four Blanton's Single Barrel releases bottled exclusively by La Maison Du Whisky to celebrate their Sixtieth Anniversary. This was to be followed by a much anticipated Pappy Van Winkle raffle ... but first the Blanton's tasting.
All four Single Barrel releases had been bottled on the same date (15 August 2016) at the same ABV (60%) from barrels that had been stored next to each other on the same rick (15) in the same warehouse (H). In other words, the barrels were practically identical to all intents and purposes. But how different would they taste? Following a brief introduction to the Blanton's range and its unusual history from Simo and @londonliquor, as well as a couple of drams of the Blanton's Original and Gold releases to get warmed up, we got to find out.
Now, if BBS had learned one thing from selecting the first BBS FEW Single Barrel a few days earlier, it was to expect significant flavour variance. And we were not disappointed. Although all four displayed the core characteristics of Blanton's that has made the range a standout BBS favourite, different elements stood out across each barrel, particularly once a few drops of water had been added to temper the heat of the alcohol. More than one member was seen desperately searching the LMDW website to see if their favourite barrel was still in stock only to be disappointed!
After the tasting was all said and done, it was time for Milroys and BBS' much anticipated Pappy Van Winkle raffle. Now, there's no easy way to allocate rare releases. The fact that such releases are often immediately flipped on online auction sites for multiples of their RRP only complicates the situation further.
Thanks to Milroy's support, BBS was able to do something a little bit different to help fulfil one of our core aims: making sure that whisky goes to people who will actually drink and enjoy (rather than flip) it. The premise was simple: everyone who attended the tasting had their name put in a Glen Cairn. The first three names pulled out by Simo were offered the chance to buy a bottle of either Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 20 Year Old, Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year Old or Old Rip Van Winkle 10 Year Old for RRP. So far so usual. The twist was that each winner was asked to remove the foil from the bottle there and then to prevent any temptation to sell it. BBS was fortunate enough to have dinner with Preston Van Winkle a few days after the event who turned out to be a huge fan of our anti-flipping concept.
In true BBS spirit, the winner of the Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year Old immediately shared the bottle round the room so that everyone could see whether the hype matched reality. Having not been a fan of the 2015 release, I was blown away by the 2016 release – an epic bourbon.
Thank you to everyone who attended this event. Milroy's next tasting (the 1792 range) and Pappy raffle will take place on 18 June 2017! Sadly, it's already sold out.
The British Bourbon Society was proud to announce the winners of our inaugural Awards at BBS’ First Anniversary Celebrations on 22 April 2017. We received a huge number of votes from BBS members and the results really speak for themselves. Congrat…
The British Bourbon Society was proud to announce the winners of our inaugural Awards at BBS' First Anniversary Celebrations on 22 April 2017. We received a huge number of votes from BBS members and the results really speak for themselves. Congratulations to all of the 2017 Award winners!
Best Bourbon:
Honourable Mention: Rebel Yell 10 Year Old Single Barrel
Best Rye:
Best Barrel Proof:
Best Allocated Release:
Honourable Mention: Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year Old (2016)
Words by: The BourbonatorThe BBS train has offered up a wild ride over the past twelve months with more highlights than the Orient Express and a promise of even more beautiful vistas to come. We could think of no better way to celebrate our one year an…
The BBS train has offered up a wild ride over the past twelve months with more highlights than the Orient Express and a promise of even more beautiful vistas to come. We could think of no better way to celebrate our one year anniversary than with a monumental opus of a bourbon tasting at Milroys of Soho, the filling station where it all began, to be held on Saturday 22 April 2017.
Our first anniversary tasting attempted to answer a question posed by many, “was bourbon better back then?” In preparation for the answer, we were able to source the question with a number of old bottles from Old Spirits Co. to pit against their modern day equivalents for a side by side tasting in a battle of ‘Old vs New’. The bottles entering the Thunderdome were:
Four Roses Yellow Label 1970’s VS Four Roses Yellow Label 2017
Evan Williams Black Label 1974 VS Evan Williams Black Label 2017
Wild Turkey 8 Year Old 101 1970’s –Wild Turkey 101 2017
Blantons Single Barrel 1988 – Blantons Single Barrel 2016
Old Taylor BiB 100 proof 1960 and Old Taylor 86 Proof 1984
In our quest for the truth, we were joined by over 25 BBS members as well as representatives of the European Bourbon and Rye Association, over from Zurich for the weekend on the return leg of our ‘bourbon cultural exchange program’. It's fair to say that the EBRA team had tasted more than their fair share of American whiskey and had a well-informed opinion on all things whisky. Whilst we all dream of driving that DeLorean on a whiskey shopping trip to 1984, their heaving bunkers are proof that they’d gotten there first!
Two by two, the whiskies were introduced and poured for the room to get their palates around with a show of hands determining which was preferred. Whilst it was not unanimous, the majority voted in favour of ‘old’, which did not come as a surprise to me. My dice might have been loaded from the start with the knowledge that older bourbons from the 1960s and 1970s are generally accepted to have been some of the best ever produced although it was interesting to see that, with the benefit of tasting side by side, this was a view supported by the majority of the room.
What made bourbon better back then? This is still very much up for debate as over the years mash bills have changed, distilleries have closed (or burnt down), processes have become more industrialised, climate change has had an affect on water, wood and ageing and of course, time in the barrel all could have contributed to the taste that seems impossible to replicate in the whiskies of today. What is agreed is that due to the glut era, where supply outstripped demand by some margin, entry level bourbons most likely contained well aged stock over and above even the statement on the label. Today, with demand as high as it is, age statements are being removed from labels to ensure that distilleries are only obliged to bottle at the minimum 2 (or 4 years if a straight bourbon) which is most likely the contributing factor in the difference in quality. To be clear, it does not mean that the product today isn’t good, I would not have the obsession I have if it wasn’t, just that the product, from a taste perspective back then was on average nicer to drink.
With the tasting concluded, it was time to deliver the first annual British Bourbon Society awards, given to BBS's favourite whiskies, retailers and bars as voted for by our members. We'll have a post on our blog about that very soon but, if you can't wait, check our twitter or Instagram pages for the deserving winners that we were privileged to honour.
Words by @JordanHarperIf you could only have 10 bottles of (American) whiskey in your home bar, what would they be?One of my favourite wine bars in London — 10 Cases — has a brilliant but simple premise: they only ever have 10 cases of each of their 10…
If you could only have 10 bottles of (American) whiskey in your home bar, what would they be?
One of my favourite wine bars in London — 10 Cases — has a brilliant but simple premise: they only ever have 10 cases of each of their 10 red and 10 white wines for sale. When they sell out of one, they replace it with 10 cases of a completely new wine. As someone who has always favoured constantly enjoying new experiences over the comfort of a ‘favourite drink’, this approach appeals to me.
As a fan of American whiskey in all its forms, I have some fifty bottles of bourbon, rye and ‘other’ whiskey from the USA in my drinks cabinet, and it’s getting unwieldy, not to mention stifling me with the paradox of choice. What would happen if I took the 10 Cases approach and shrank it down to just 10 bottles? Not necessarily whittling down to the rarest or most expensive, nor trying to compile a comprehensive ‘lesson’ in American whiskey, but the ones I’d buy if I were building a collection right now (April 2017).
As an added constraint (and to make it more than just a vanity project), I’m going to try and conjure up a list of 10 whiskies available right now in the UK for a total price of £500 or less for a ’10 Cases’ refresh of my imaginary home bar.
Note: prices have been rounded-up in some cases for brevity, are subject to change based on availability and (apart from number 7) are generally available from all good whiskey specialists.
A long, long, long time favourite of mine. Probably the whiskey that got me into American spirit in the first place many years ago. Full bodied, sweet, charred oak, vanilla, toffee, a little bit of spice; the very epitome of what makes whiskey from the US unique. At 47% ABV you’re getting some serious bang for your buck, too — this is the biggest bargain in the bourbon world for me and is incredibly versatile.
Get it while you can though, it’s been discontinued in the US (to be replaced ‘Elijah Craig small batch’, no age-statement) but for now is still widely available in the UK.
Drink: When you just need a big old glass of chewy barrel juice.
The resurrected Michter’s distillery make some seriously good juice, but none of it matches the bang-for-your-buck of their barrel strength rye. This stuff is a phenomenal example of what rye whiskey brings to the table and I can’t get enough of it. Spicy, but full of caramel and vanilla notes, a touch of orange and cherry and a huge finish.
It’s a little tricky to get a hold of as it’s a limited release, but their regular single barrel rye (42.4%, £55 from Milroy’s) is a more than adequate replacement if you can’t find it. There’s probably only one rye I’d take to my desert island over this one, but that‘s not exactly easy to get hold of.
Drink: When your palate is feeling adventurous and like you deserve something special.
Wild Turkey, 56.4% (barrel strength, varies per batch)
I find Wild Turkey whiskey has one of the most distinctive flavour profiles in the bourbon world. A high rye mashbill, low barrel entry proof (like Michter’s) and a real talent for consistency means that you’re always getting a smooth, butterscotch, vanilla, maple, cinnamon and ever so slightly spicy whiskey when you buy WT – and their Rare Breed is a fine example of what they do so well, blending a mix of 6–12 year old whiskies to create their signature flavour.
If you wanted to save £20, Wild Turkey 101 is an only slightly diluted version of their barrel strength expression (50.5% ABV), keeping all of the classic WT flavours but with slightly less body and mouthfeel.
Drink: After a hard day at work and you want something spicy and punchy to knock some sense into yourself.
Less than £40 for a ten year old bourbon is something not to be sniffed at, and when that whiskey comes from Buffalo Trace — where over 200 years of distilling expertise produces some of the best and most sought after whiskies in the country — then it’s a no-brainer.
Eagle Rare 10, like Elijah Craig 12, is a classic example of Kentucky bourbon — rich and full bodied, full of maple syrup, orange peel, oak and vanilla — and is my go to bottle when I’m too tired to scan my cabinet and just want a glass of something I’m going to enjoy. They also have a lively single-barrel program (with Single Barrel selections available in BrewDog and The Cocktail Trading Company in London), which without fail I’ve always enjoyed even more than the off the shelf juice.
Drink: When you’re feeling content, and need a nice, straightforward dram to see the night off.
5. Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond Straight Rye (£35, Nickolls & Perks)
Heaven Hill, 50%
If Elijah Craig was the whiskey that piqued my interest in American spirits, it was Rittenhouse that made me realise why rye whiskey was very much the spirit of America (pre-prohibition).
There’s not a lot of subtlety to Rittenhouse 100, for £35 you get a big spicy rye punch, full of cloves and a hint of citrus. So full bodied and packed with oak and vanilla it’s like a mouthful of bourbon-soaked peppercorns. Pretty much the Elijah Craig of rye whiskies – almost improbably great value and there aren’t many ryes better at twice the price in this author’s opinion.
Drink: when you fancy a manhattan, or just being warmed into a night of excess.
Ahh, foam bananas doused in whiskey and set alight! Four Roses limited edition bourbons have become extremely sought after, and their method of blending up to ten recipes (5 yeasts, 2 mash bills) is now somewhat legendary. Given all that geekery, it’s easy to forget that at the more available and affordable end of the scale, with their Small Batch (and Single Barrel) offerings, you can pick up pretty much the same flavours but at a fraction of the price.
FRSmB is a blend of four of the ten ‘recipes’ (details here) to create a smooth, rye heavy but incredibly sophisticated and well rounded bourbon that’s quite savory — think honey on toast (and the aforementioned foam bananas doused in whiskey). It’s the John Lennon to Elijah Craig’s Paul McCartney.
Drink: When you’re feeling like something a little different, or want to show your friends that not all bourbons are created equal.
I’m a huge fan of FEW Spirits. For a young distillery, it’s genuinely remarkable how much depth and flavour Paul Hletko and his team are getting out of their barrels. I’m beginning to think that they’re concealing a time machine on the shores of Lake Michigan somewhere.
FEW’s regular Bourbon and Rye offerings are pretty great, but this very limited release to celebrate the 23rd anniversary of Chicago institution Delilahs really is something else. My first attempt at tasting notes were that it tasted like dark chocolate digestive biscuits and spiced toffee. It’s absolutely delicious and super-limited, but if I was restocking the bar now, I’d be making sure I grabbed one of these before they’re all gone.
Drink: When you’ve switched the Jazz for Blues and are seriously considering polishing off an entire bottle.
Blanton’s is a funny old beast. For the most part, every whiskey on this list is cheaper and more easily available in the US. Blanton’s have a very unusual distribution arrangement: thanks to the brand being owned by Age International (but distilled by Buffalo Trace) and being Big in Japan, they are focused heavily on the export market.
As such, bottles like Blanton’s Gold (and their Straight From the Barrel release) are almost impossible to get a hold of in the US — and when they are available are generally more expensive than buying them abroad — so for once, it pays to be a bourbon fan outside of America!
Essentially, Blanton’s Gold Edition is just an extra selective version of their Single Barrel release (widely available everywhere). It’s a lot drier and more tannic than a lot of other bourbons, but packs a HUGE oaky punch as a result. Along with a ton of vanilla and toffee, and a richness that’s almost overwhelming. This is a last drink of the night kind of bourbon, but it really is pretty great.
Drink: When you just need that one last hit before bedtime.
A crisp and spicy New Orleans style rye, a little more subtle and aromatic than Rittenhouse, unsurprisingly a great choice if you’re making a Sazerac cocktail.
You could argue that you only really need one of this or Rittenhouse in your line-up, but I think having them both here really highlights the versatility of this style of spirit.
Drink: When you’re making pre-prohibition cocktails, or fancy something spicy but gentle on your tastebuds.
And finally, something a little bit different. High West’s double rye is a blend of a sweet 16-year-old 53% rye whiskey from the Barton distillery and a much fresher and spicier 2-year-old 95% MGP rye. This results in a delicious blend of old and new: with oak and age bringing a bit of sophistication to a more vibrant younger whiskey.
It’s a great example of the interesting stuff happening in the US and a great value dram to have in your cabinet. It’s not always easily available, so grab a bottle while you can.
Drink: When you fancy appreciating the spirit of American adventure and rebelling against the age-statement chasing fanboys (and girls).
That’s it! In summary, then ten bottles you’d find hitting my shelf first if the burglars robbed my spirits cabinet blind, are:
Elijah Craig 12 (£32)
Michter’s Barrel Strength Rye (£85)
Wild Turkey Rare Breed (£52)
Eagle Rare 10 (£37)
Rittenhouse BiB Straight Rye (£36)
Four Roses Small Batch (£33)
FEW Delilah’s 23rd Anniversary (£62.50)
Blanton’s Gold Edition (£65)
Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey (£45)
High West Double Rye (£43)
That’s just under £500 for four ryes, four bourbons and one brilliant blend – if I never had to drink an American spirit outside of that selection again, I’d still spend the rest of my days drinking some really great whiskey.
