Month: January 2017

Its was a typical Monday but a cold wintery morning along the banks of the Kentucky River when Elmer T Lee came to visit Buffalo Trace. As he had done many times before, Monday was his regular Barrel picking day. Ever since he agreed to having a brand named for him, his only stipulation was he got to pick the Bourbon that went into the bottles. As Master Distiller Emeritus he earned the right. On average the bottles contained older Whiskey than the Blanton’s costing twice as much. The rest is legendary and now one can rarely find a bottle. But who picks the barrels now a few years since Elmer’s passing? It was announced that the Brand Manager, Kris Comstock would continue for Elmer. I personally see a big difference from what used to be incredible stuff to now good. Elmer retired in 1983 but kept up his mostly regular Monday visits almost until he passed in 2013.
What is it about the influence of a Master Distiller or the true legends? Jim Rutledge use to always say the day they start making a flavored whiskey is his last day. Parker Beam had this kind of clout as did Booker and so many others. It was thought that the Samuals (custodians of their brand) were against the change in the Makers mark bottling proof to 84 a few years back but they could not kill the idea before it was released. Then owner Beam wanted what they wanted. These are just a few influencers in Whiskey.
Brand Managers and marketing people now have the power in most cases and at times it results in mistakes. I personally liked the Wild Turkey Masters Keep but the consumer pushed back on this and Diamond Anniversary. They both now still sit on shelves 1-3 years after their release. What happened? Oddly, nothing but Proof. The consumer presumed that lots of water was added bringing the Diamond Proof to 91 and the Masters Keep 86.8 and well below the proof that Whiskey Geeks wanted in a $150 bottle. What wasn’t communicated was that the Barrel Entry proof back when these were put away were only 107 and they lost alcohol as many barrels do that are kept older, lower and cooler in a warehouse. In order to do a small batch release 95 proof was the average when dumped and they needed to be brought down a tad. Had this been the story they would have sold much better since a lower distillation and barrel entry proof usually results in a better more richly tasting bottle.
Ive been told that the input and influence a Master Distiller currently is at best “At odds” with the marketers. People like Fred Noe, Brent Elliot, Harlen Wheatley have much less say. I know of one Master Distiller that is down right unhappy the direction of the marketing over quality. Experiments that might have been dumped before now go out to market. I recently discussed if a Tequila finish barrel was killed as it was rumored and never came out. It was confirmed that it did not turn out well and I think Bourbon and Tequila is like Chocolate and mustard as a harmonious mix. The private or closely held companies like Heaven Hill and Old Forrester have the best chance these days. Unfortunately many real Master Distillers have been muzzled and trotted around like rented ponies not the stallions of just a few years ago. Making matters more confusing are the people anointing themselves as ‘master distiller’ that are full of miss and disinformation saying things like their six-month-old whiskey is great, wonderful and you’ll see unicorns and leprechauns when you drink it.
Recently a label was approved from the TTB for a Basil Hayden Rye. This is obviously a Limited Edition on the heals of the Bookers and Bookers Rye. BUT, a 80 proof Super Rye is like clipping the wings of an Eagle so it can’t fly or a 40 MPH limiter on a Ferrari. Not smart and a typical stupid Marketing move. If they expect to sell this one for $150-$300 then they better cross their fingers they can find a bunch of stupid people to buy them up. Flippers will be stuck with them unless they get some huge ratings (unlikely at 80 Proof). Basil Hayden had a very special place that worked in that spot and its not at 300 bucks in a rye. Why not just do it as a Bakers, the Red Headed Step Child of Beam Suntory that has no idea what to do with the brand? Makes no sense to me or many other bloggers and aficionados. Beam doesn’t seem to want peoples advice on such things I guess or at least not listening.
I think this is the trend and it’s a bad one. Not taking the CORRECT pulse of the public, not listening to your Master Distillers or even asking them is a recipe for bad quality and stupid ideas. We are seeing it now. Only a matter of time till some moron puts out a Tequila Barrel finish in a major brand.